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five kilometres north of agaete on the galdar road, cuevas de las cruces consists of a number of adjoining rock chambers originally inhabited by the guanches, one with a chimney. nowadays, they contain a good deal of litter. the corner is awkward take care entering and especially leaving the car park in front of the little complex....
pleasant little upland firgas, 'capital' of the smallest municipality in gran canaria, is famous throughout the archipelago for its natural spring water: the bottling plant 5km out of town bottles 250,000 liters a day. in the town, whitewashed houses stand round a circular grey fountain. firgas is also an agricultural community, producing bananas, cereals, fruit, watercress and yams....
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the most historic of all guanche towns and now the centre of a banana growing area, galdar shelters from the sea behind the near-perfect volcanic cone of la montana de galdar. it has an excellent covered market (famous for handicraft and local produce) in the main street and a fine square,...
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this once entirely trogloditic village 5km west of santa brigida now has its fair share of freestanding buildings. but it continues to produce the kind of hand-made pottery first made by the aboriginal canarios, without the use of the wheel and unglazed. they are sold by individual craftspeople from their cave workshops at the edge of the village. la atalaya and the villages of hoya de pineda and lugarejo are the main centres of pottery handicraft....
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on an arid site behind the sparkling sea, hemmed in by village houses and banana plantations, substantial remains of pre-hispanic dwelling places and communal tombs survive. in the larger tombs, a central shaft is surrounded by two rows of radial chambers, all of it encircled by a final wall like chapels lining the apse in a christian cathedral. forty three people were buried in the largest....
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set at the upper end of the barranco de agaete, los berrazales used to be a spa. an old fashioned spa hotel, la guayarmina, still has guests but their activities are somewhat restricted now that the water is all bottled under the name cumbres de galdar...
the name refers to the surviving one per cent of gran canaria's original and ancient iaurel forest, still holding on here under rigorous protection. you may survey it from the very narrow road that runs through it but you are not allowed to wander in it. this is a tiny nature reserve, only about 200m long, made up of dense evergreen and varied species climbing up almost vertical banks from the stream bed....
More: Los Tilos Gran Canaria
seen from the west moya is an astonishing place, with a huge church, nuestra senora de la candelaria, perched on the very lip of a deep ravine. small wonder that earlier churches on the same site collapsed into the barranco: the first in 1671, the next in 1704. a 15th century image of the virgin was preserved, however, and the town remains devoted to it. moya has a delightful, lofty feel; the area set on the east side of the church, safely separated from the ravine, is well preserved....
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puerto de las nieves is the home port of agaete, capital in turn of a rich agricultural area. for centuries, this was the only reasonable point of access to this part of the island....
this comfortable, bourgeois town is so well connected by fast road to las palmas, that it is now virtually a suburb of the capital city and definitely well-heeled....