Monday, March 29, 2010

Things to do in Santiago de Compostela

Plaza del Obradoiro: This rectangular square is the largest in Santiago and is flanked by four buildings: the Cathedral, the Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos, Rajoy Palace and the University Vice Chancellor's Offices. The Cathedral. The vast area of this square devoted to the cathedral building is in fact made up of three easily distinguishable parts, namely a central section and two side ones.

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The central section is none other than the main cathedral facade, which bears the same name as the square itself, EI Obradoiro. Built in Baroque style in the first half of the 18th century by architect Fernando de Casas y Novoa, this facade came to replace a formerly existing one and features elements to be assigned to various epochs.

Thus, the flight of steps giving access to the cathedral was erected in the 17th century and leads to what is erroneously referred to as the Old Cathedral but which in reality is a 12thcentury vaulted Romanesque style edifice, one which forms the true foundations of the Cathedral at this point. Soaring up to the left and right of the observer are the towers called Torre de la Carraca (carraca is the name given to a wooden instrument played during the Easter celebrations) and Torre de las Campanas (or Bell Tower), respectively. Standing around 70 meters tall, the towers feature a 12th century (Romanesque style) first level disguised by more recent additions, to which the two remaining levels were added in the 17th and 18th centuries (Baroque style).

The highlights of the rich ornamentation gracing this facade are, from top to bottom, the effigy of St James the Apostle (depicted in pilgrim's attire) and, underneath the latter, a star-spangled chest symbolizing the saint's tomb, on either side of which stand the images of St James' favorite disciples, Theodore and Athanasius. The part of the cathedral lying to the right of the Obradoiro facade belongs to the cloister, itself built in the 16th century in Plateresque style and featuring an impressive gallery on its upper level and a strange tower with a tiered roof reminiscent of a dovecote at the southwestern corner of the building.

The part of the cathedral complex lying to the left of the Obradoiro facade as we face it belongs to the Archbishops' Palace (Palacio de los Arzobispos), a building that stretches out beyond the square itself into the adjacent Calle de San Francisco. Featuring as it does elements erected in a variety of periods, above all the 16th, 17th and 19th centuries, the oldest part of this edifice, dating from the 12th and 13th centuries and only to be seen from the inside, is the one popularly referred to as Palacio de Gelmirez, itself a remarkable example of secular Romanesque architecture (the most noteworthy of the various buildings that go to make up the palace is what was possibly the former dining hall, its vaulted ceiling resting on a series on ribs whose weight is supported by brackets or corbels decorated with several scenes). The so-called Arco de Palacio is an archway or passage which, having been opened up right at the heart of this oldest part of the Archbishops' Palace, connects Plaza del Obradoiro with that other famous square, Plaza de Azabacherfa.

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Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos. Since 1953 a luxury hotel belonging to the chain of Spanish paradores or state-run hotels, this building had up to that point in time been the Gran Hospital de los Reyes Catolicos, the 'hospital' or hospice founded by the Spanish monarchs in the late 15th century in order to provide accommodation and care for the pilgrims that arrived in the town. The area lying just in front of the building, marked off by a series of pillars and chains, is where in former times one could enjoy the right of asylum (no criminal taking refuge here could be apprehended by the law without the prior permission of the person in charge of the Hospital). The beautiful Plateresque facade, the work of architect and sculptor Enrique de Egas, is literally overflowing with sculpted figures (depicting Apostles, saints curing illnesses, etc,) and is flanked on either side by contemporary 16thcentury Spanish coats of arms. The balconies and windows underwent Baroque style alterations in the 18th century.

The layout of the building's interior is seen to revolve around four interconnected arcaded courtyards The two courtyards lying adjacent to the entrance, between which stands the former hospital chapel (itself featuring an interesting grille and a transept with spectacular ornamented and a graceful lantern), were built 1st decade of the 16th century.

in a Plateresque style. The 10 courtyards were built as a result sion work carried out on the in the 18th century and are e Baroque in style. the centre of each is a small shaped structure standing over a well. Nowadays, apart from still being the home to Santiago Town Council, the building houses some of the departments of the Galician Autonomous Regional Government or Xunta, along with the Council for Galician Culture (Consello da Cultura Galega).

Built in Neo-classical style according to the plans drawn up by the engineer of French origin Charles Lemaur, the structure of the palace is arranged into five sections, the central one of which, graced by a series of sturdy columns, is surmounted by a pediment featuring a sculpted portrayal of the miraculous apparition of St James the Apostle at the legendary Battle of Clavijo. This scene is likewise depicted by the equestrian statue of St James the Moorslayer that crowns the pediment. The finishing touch to the end sections is provided by segmentally curved pediments emblazoned with the coat of arms of the founder bishop.

Las Angustias de Abajo Church Santiago

From a small terrace on the northern side of the palace, the one nearest to the Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos, one can see the mid 18th century Baroque Church of Las Angustias de Abajo. (A similarly-named church, Iglesia de las Angustias de Arriba, is to be found in northeastern Santiago), Rectorado de la Universidad. (The University Vice-Chancellor's Office), Built in the mid 17th century to house one of the University's colleges, namely the Colegio Menor de San Jeronimo. This is a structure of modest appearance whose outstanding feature is the 15thcentury Neo-Romanesque portal that constitutes the only element to have been saved of the Old Hospital (also called St James) that was demolished in the 17th century.

Plaza de la Azabacheria Santiago

Moving on from the Plaza del Obradoiro we reach this square by means of the ' above mentioned passage, the Arco de Palacio. Plaza de la Azabacheria is so called in memory of the guild of jet craftsmen or azabacheros, whose workshops once lined both the square Itself and the adjoining street of the same name. Objects crafted from jet (a black colored lignite) were and still are very typical of Compostela, above all items of jewellery in which the stone either plain or carved is set in precious metal. Many shops in Santiago specialize in offering a wide range of craftsman made silver and jet jewellery, which they sell at very reasonable prices. Plaza de la Azabacheria is flanked by three extraordinary buildings: the Cathedral, whose northern facade gives onto the square; the Archbishop's Palace; and the Monastery of San Martin Pinario.

The Northern Facade of the Cathedral, also known as the Azabacherfa facade, was built in the second half of the 18th century in a style marking the transition from the Baroque to the Neoclassical. It replaced the former 12th century Romanesque structure, which we know was adorned with a large number of magnificent sculptures.

The most outstanding features of the present-day facade, apart from the coats of arms and medallions that grace it, are the statue portraying Faith attributed to the artist Gambino and, crowning the whole, the sculpture of St James the Apostle, who is depicted with two praying kings at his feet. From the said narrow little street, Calle de la Azabacheria, one can see a small belfry which, although embedded in the cathedral wall, belongs to the Church of La Corticela, an originally freestanding Romanesque building that in the course of the 17th century would be embraced by the cathedral fabric.

The building known as San Martin Pinario was a Benedictine monastery from the time of its foundation in the 9th century until the advent of ecclesiastical disentailment in 1836 that forced members of religious orders to abandon their cloisters. At a later date the edifice was reconverted to house the Council Seminary of the Santiago de Compostela Archdiocese, a function that it still serves today.

For the last few decades, San Martin Pinario has also been home to the Theological Institute, the Galician School of Social Studies and a University Hall of Residence. Spreading out as it does over an area of 20,000 square meters, the present-day building was erected in Baroque style from the 17th to the 18th century, thus replacing the former structure that stood on this site. Giving onto the Plaza de la Azabacheria is the main facade, at the centre of which a flight of steps leads up to the entrance doorway. Above the latter, arranged on successive levels, we can observe a statue of St Benedict, an impressive balcony, the coat of arms of Spain and the facade's crowning glory, a group sculpture depicting St Martin of Tours, the monastery's patron, cutting up his cloak in order to dress a poor man.

The interior of San Martin Pinario, part of which is open to visitors, boasts a superb processional cloister with a fountain at its centre, the work of architect Casas y Novoa. The building's own church, the dimensions of which surpass even those of many cathedrals and whose facade gives onto another square, namely Plaza de San Martin, is the regular venue, along with the eastern section of the complex, for important exhibitions and other cultural events.

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