Sunday, February 28, 2010

Compansation Claims in Spain

Food Poisoning In Spain

Being taken ill at home is bad enough but if this happens whilst on holiday it can be a nightmare. Food poisoning is the most common complaint by holidaymakers usually caused by the hotel failing to meet the required standards of hygiene.

Many people may put an upset stomach down to a change in diet or water but recently there have been record numbers of claims made against hotels in Spain by British tourists. The types of illness include salmonella and E.Coli which can lead to nasty after effects such as irritable bowell syndrome which can last for a long time.

If the hotel has failed in it`s duty of care in the preparation of food or generally in it`s standard of hygiene and you become ill because of it you will have a claim against the tour operator with whom you booked your holiday. You can also bring your claim in the UK rather than having to make it in Spain.

It is also worth mentioning that if you have suffered food poisoning in Spain then it is likely that other people in your hotel will have suffered the same fate as they will have been eating the same food. You should, if possible, take their details to help you with your claim. You should also make sure you obtain medical treatment and keep your receipts for outlay.

For advice or assistance call us on 08000 154321

Legionnaire's Disease In Spain

This is a particularly nasty illness being an uncommon form of Pneumonia and if you are unfortunate to catch it your holiday will be ruined.

Legionnaires` is spread through aerosols of water containing the legionella germ usually air conditioning systems and cooling towers.

If a hotel fails to properly maintain its water systems legionella can grow and if undetected can affect many people. It is particularly dangerous to older people. The incubation time from infection to illness is 2 to 10 days but usually 3 to 6 days.

The disease is usually transmitted through breathing in aerosols from contaminated air conditioning systems, showers and spas. The disease is not thought to be transmittable from person to person.

The symptoms may not become apparent until you return home. It would be helpful in locating the source if you can contact anyone else at your hotel or ship to see if they know of anyone else infected.

If you have contracted Legionnaires` you may be able to make a claim and we at Worldwide Holiday Claims can assist.

For advice or assistance call us on 08000 154321

Road accident in Spain

Following a change in the law in 2003, if you have a road accident in Spain that is not your fault and you suffer injury and loss you can now bring your claim for compensation in the UK.

The incidence of road accidents in Spain is higher than in the UK and many British drivers are killed or injured in such accidents. All cars insured in Spain are registered on a database and therefore, provided you have kept details of the driver and registration number of the vehicle at fault, it should be possible to obtain the identity of the insurers.

The insurers will nominate someone to deal with the claim in the UK and this will make your claim for compensation easier to make as it can be dealt with by a British lawyer without you having to find and pay for one in Spain.

If you have the misfortune of having an accident in Spain which is not your fault, you must take details of the other vehicle and driver and if possible the name and address of any witness. This will help you in making a successful claim for your compensation claim. You should also keep receipts for all out of pocket expenses which you suffer as a result of your accident such as medical fees.

For advice or assistance call us on 08000 154321

Accidents On Flights To Spain

If you have an accident during your flight to Spain or even when embarking or disembarking from the aircraft you may well have a claim for compensation against the airline or the tour operator who arranged your holiday.

The liability of the air carrier is set out in the 1999 Montreal Convention which states that if a passenger suffers bodily injury during the flight or whilst embarking or disembarking then the airline is liable in damages. This is called strict liability and you do not need to show that the accident was the airline`s fault.

It even means that if you are taken by bus from the terminal building to the aircraft by bus, if the bus has an accident or brakes sharply, and you are injured, then they would be liable.

Common types of accidents on aircraft are:

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Objects falling out of overhead lockers
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Aisle passengers getting hit by food trolleys
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Burns from spilt food and drinks
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Trips and tumbles

If you suffer an injury on a flight to Spain you should make sure that you report this immediately to the staff and keep the flight details.

We at Worldwide Holiday Claims can assist you in your claim for compensation. Our solicitors operate on a no win no fee basis and you keep 100% of your damages. We provide a fast and efficient service and will speak to you in plain English.

For advice or assistance call us on 08000 154321

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Accidents In Hotel Grounds In Spain

Hotel grounds are often the source of accidents for British holidaymakers in Spain usually due to poorly maintained walkways or equipment.

Hoteliers are obliged to provide safe surroundings for their guests but unfortunately often fail to reach the required standard resulting often in serious injury to the victim and thus completely spoiling their holiday.

Reported accidents often involve slipping on unmarked wet floors, tripping on rough and poorly maintained footpaths and falling down stairs. You could also suffer injury due to using faulty equipment provided by the hotel.

Such dangerous conditions can be caused by faulty handrails, inadequate lighting or spillage not cleaned up, or a combination of all of these.

If you have suffered an accident causing you injury which is not your fault you may well be entitled to claim compensation against the tour operator who organized your holiday in Spain.

If you are injured in an accident you should report it to the travel representative and enter details in the hotel accident book. Taking photographs of the location is a good idea and get names and addresses of any witnesses to the accident. You should also of course take medical advice and keep all receipts for any expenses caused by the accident.

Worldwide Holiday Claims can assist you with your claim for compensation. Our solicitors work on a no win no fee basis and you keep 100% of your damages. We will deal with your claim in a fast and professional manner and will speak to you in plain English. For advice and assistance call 08000 154321

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Accidents In Hotels In Spain

If you have an accident in your hotel, then you may be entitled to compensation if you suffer an injury as a result.

The hotel owes a duty of care to it`s guests to provide safe and secure accommodation and if it fails in it`s duty then it will be liable for any injuries and losses suffered by victims.

There are many ways in which someone could sustain an injury but the most common are slips and falls caused by slippery flooring, either in the hotel room or on a staircase.

Faulty electric or gas appliances can be a source of danger to holidaymakers in Spain, a lack of maintenance can have serious or even fatal consequences.

Badly laid out rooms or sharp edges on furniture can also cause nasty injuries.

If the balcony to your room has not been properly maintained this could have disastrous consequences.

If you suffer injury and loss in a Spanish hotel you can bring a claim for compensation in the UK as the tour operator who arranged your holiday is responsible for the failings of your hotel.

If you are injured you should make sure that you report your injury to the travel representative and the hotel manager. Take photographs, if possible, of the site of your accident. You should also take medical treatment and keep details of any expenses that you incur.

At Worldwide Holiday Claims our solicitors operate on a no win no fee basis and you keep 100% of your damages. We provide a fast and efficient service and you will find us sympathetic and approachable.

For advice and assistance call us on 0845 337 0654.

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Granada - A Potted History

Established by the first Iberian tribes to settle the south of the peninsular, Granada's turbulent history has witnessed a host of invading armies from the Phoenicians to the Moors. It has withstood sieges, occupation and destruction to flourish into a vibrant, modern city with a rich blend of cultural influences that continue to attract the hordes; only now they arrive armed with digital cameras and guidebooks rather than swords and chariots.

This, the first of three articles, takes us from the city's foundation to the expulsion of the Moors from their last stronghold in Spain.

Granada, I'm falling under your spell
And if you could speak, what a fascinating tale you would tell
Of an age the world has long forgotten
Of an age that weaves a silent magic in Granada today

("Granada I'm falling under your spell" -Frankie Laine 1954)

Corny it maybe, but the old Frankie Laine song somehow captures the essence of Granada; the feeling that everywhere you look there is magic and a tale to tell.

There was little but bare hillside when the first Iberian Tribes made their home in the area near the present day Albaicin district. They remained for the better part of a millennium, until ousted by the Phonecians who, just 500 years later, were dispatched by the Cartheginians.

In 250BC the might of the Roman Empire descended and, for the next seven centuries, created a thriving municipality which covered the Albaicin, the Alcazaba and the area up to the Alhambra hill. It became a city of two names: Iliberis and the more poetic Florentia (City of flowers and fruits). However, as the Roman Empire began to decline in the 5th century, the Visigoths, never ones to miss an opportunity, moved in and for the next 200 years they ruled over a city that was expanding in population, wealth and influence. The Jewish neighbourhood of Garnatha established itself alongside Iliberis and in 711 their support was a crucial factor in enabling the invading Moors to eject the Visigoths and drive north to occupy the entire peninsula.

The Moors would remain for almost eight centuries, adapting the Jewish name to Karnattah, and creating one of the richest and most forward-looking medieval cities in Spain, attracting traders, artisans and learned men. In 1010 Zawi ben Ziri - the founder of the Ziri dynasty - began to expand the area of the Albaicin and three years later Granada became an independent Kingdom. The Ziris reigned for another 200 hundred years until, in 1238, Muhammad Ibn Yusuf Ibn Nasr took control and the Nasrid dynasty, builders of the Alhambra, came to power.

The city went from strength to strength, creating alliances and changing sides to maintain its position but, as the Catholic armies of Ferdinand and Isabella spread across the peninsula, Granada found itself the last stronghold of the Muslim world. In 1491 the Monarchs, with a united Spain behind them, laid siege to the city. Weakened and isolated, it crumbled within months. Boabdil, the last Nasrid king, having been granted refuge in the Alpujarras, gold and a promise of political and religious freedom for his subjects, surrendered. Ferdinand and Isabella entered Granada with great pomp and ceremony, flags flying and set up court in the lavish Alhambra. Granada was now part of a newly unified Spain.

As for Boabdil, as he fled the city he turned for one last look and the tears flowed. "You do well," said his unsympathetic mother, "to weep like a woman for what you could not defend like a man." The spot from which Boabdil looked for the last time on Granada is still marked, and is known as "The last sigh of the Moor" (el último suspiro del Moro).

In Part 2; Ferdinand & Isabella, the Inquisition, Granada's Golden age and the war with France that almost destroyed the Alhambra.

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Family Fun in Barcelona

When taking children on a trip to Barcelona, you will undoubtedly want to plan your itinerary to include activities to keep the little ones amused. Thankfully, there is a lot to see and do in this wonderful city, even if you're under a meter high!

What family holiday to Barcelona would be complete without a trip to the zoo? Everybody, young and old, will enjoy Barcelona's lovely zoo. The zoo was made famous by Snowflake, the Albino gorilla, but he has now passed away. Today, visitors can see a wide range of exciting and exotic animals, ranging from dolphins to Iberian wolves, from the red panda to the Eurasian otter. There is an impressive conservation centre too, that is bound to be of great interest to the kids.

Continuing the wildlife theme, adults and children alike cannot help but enjoy the wonderful Barcelona Aquarium. With over 10,000 fish and underwater creatures to see, the kids will be absolutely mesmerized watching this secret world unfold before their very eyes in front of the 35 tanks that make up the aquarium. The aquarium regularly holds workshops, theatre activities and story telling sessions, so it is a good idea to check out the upcoming events on its website.

For little boys (and big boys too!) the Barcelona Football Club Museum is a definite must. Absolutely everything about this famous team, from historical photographs to interesting paraphernalia, is housed in this 3,500 square meter complex. There is also an art museum for the girls to meander around while the boys gape at Barca exhibits.

Barcelona's answer to Disneyworld can be found just 90 minutes outside the city in the form of Port Aventura, a wonderful activity park that is divided into five exciting areas for children to enjoy. A full day 'or even longer' can be spent in Imperial China, the Far West, the jungles of Polynesia, Aztec Mexico or in the Mediterranean, enjoying theme-related rides, shows, shops and restaurants. The park caters for kids of all ages from the very little ones who would appreciate gentler rides, to adrenaline junkies who need their fix from rides such as the notorious Dragon Khan or Furious Bacus.

Finally, if Port Aventura is not your style, or you are simply after a slower change of pace, don't miss out on a visit to the nostalgic Tibidabo, a one hundred year old funfair that boasts some of the best views of the city. The park is packed with delightful amusement park offerings, including the must-ride funicular railway. While Tibidabo's rides are reasonably tame compared to Port Aventura, there is something about the charm and historical importance of this park that makes it a firm favourite among children.

As can be seen, there is a great choice of things to do in Barcelona to keep the kids amused. Combined with other natural attractions such as the long stretches of beaches along the coast, no kid should ever go bored in this stunning city.

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Spain's Sporting Success

Whether it's the wonderful climate, Spaniards' innate self confidence or simply exceptional coaching, Spain is one of the world's leading sporting nations and, with Madrid having recently emerged as one of the favourites to host the 2016 Olympic Games, it seems there has never been a better time to embrace sport the Spanish way.

While the failings of Spain's national football team are well documented (they are yet to win a major football tournament), the selección, as they are known, rarely fail to qualify for the big tournaments (unlike all of the Home Nations for the forthcoming Euro 2008) and are often among the favourites to win. Their time will surely come. However, football-mad as Spain may be, the country can still call upon a number of other sporting heroes as testaments to Spain's enduring sporting success.

Had Britain's Lewis Hamilton not choked on the final Formula 1 race of the 2006-7 season, Spain would no longer be able to boast the youngest ever Formula 1 World Champion. But choke he did and, as it stands, Spain's Fernando Alonso retains that accolade, for another season at least. In tennis, with the Swiss Roger Federer sweeping all before him, only one man can ever seriously hope to stand in his way - Majorca's Rafael Nadal. In fact, on a clay surface it is Nadal, not Federer, who is held up as THE man to beat.

Likewise in Basketball - a sport played passionately throughout the globe - it is Spain, not the USA, who are world champions, led by the towering, talented and charismatic Pau Gasol, whose face adorns everything from credit cards to cheese snacks. There are numerous other fields where Spain competes at the highest level, such as volleyball, hockey, handball, water polo and superbikes. And the last two winners of the Tour de France? That's right, Spaniards - Oscar Pereiro and Alberto Contador. With three Spaniards ranked among the top 10 male tennis players in the world, the argument is irrefutable - Spain produces exceptional sportsmen and women. But how?

A combination of national pride, an inviting climate, excellent facilities and supreme self confidence ensures young Spaniards are given a head start in almost any sport. Still riding high off the back of the successful 1992 Olympic Games in Barcelona, the whole nation has embraced sport and seen the benefits it can bring, be they physically, emotionally or financially. Should Spain be awarded the Olympic Games for only the second time in its history, other nations should watch out - there might just be no stopping them!

If you are sports mad and are travelling to Spain, you really will be spoilt for choice for things to do. Kids are especially well catered for - take a look at the links below to see which sporting activities are available in your region.

* Madrid will be up against bids from Prague, Tokyo, Chicago, Rio de Janeiro, Doha and Baku in the race for the 2016 Olympics.

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Property in Spain

A Buyers Guide to Costa Del Sol

Buying a property in Spain can be hassle-free provided you follow the correct procedure and appoint an English-speaking lawyer. Areas such as the Costa del Sol and Costa Blanca have been popular with British buyers for decades, but such is Spain's appeal that other costas and even inland regions are now attracting property buyers from the UK. Spain's wonderful weather, varied scenery and excellent infrastructure means finding that home of your dreams is as easy as 1,2,3.

So, once you have found a home you wish to buy, and your (locally-based) lawyer has checked that the property is registered in the Registro de Propiedad (which will outline who the property belongs to, its exact size specifications and any outstanding debts tied to it), you will need to place a deposit on your home to secure it and have it taken off the market. The deposit is 10% for a secondhand property and between 25%-40% for a new build (off-plan) property. At this stage, you will also need to apply for a Numero de Identification de Extranjeros (more commonly known as a NIE number).

Next, a notary will be appointed to draw up the purchase contract (called the contrato de compraventa in Spanish)and oversee the proceedings. This is where the buying process differs to that of the UK and why it is essential to appoint a good, English-speaking lawyer to check all the paperwork. A notary's job is to impartially ensure that every step of the sale process is followed legally and fairly. You can appoint your lawyer with power of attorney to sign the purchase contract if you so wish - this is a good option if it is difficult for you to be in Spain when the contract is ready to be signed.

Property in Spain



If your property is being bought off-plan, you will first receive a deed of declaration of new construction, plus an occupancy permit. You will be required to make staged payments throughout the building process (normally three payments, with the final one due once building work has completed) and, once your home is ready, you sign a deed of sale which, just like with a resale purchase contract, will be witnessed by the notary. For secondhand properties, it normally takes between six to eight weeks from the time you place your deposit to the time you sign the final contract (escritura).

Mortgages are available in both the UK and Spain, with the maximum mortgage currently available being 80%, which means that you have to provide a deposit of 20% of the property's purchase price. It is also important to consider additional legal fees, stamp duty and property taxes before committing to a purchase because these will usually amount to an additional 10% of the purchase price, so be sure you can afford this additional expense before going ahead!

Additional Information

Residencia: You should decide whether you wish to apply for official residence (residencia) in Spain before you proceed with your purchase. Becoming a resident in Spain can help speed up Spanish mortgage applications and also carries additional tax and inheritance benefits. If you plan to spend more than six months a year in Spain, then it is advisable to apply for official residence.

Spanish Will: It is essential to draw up a separate will in Spain, regardless of whether you have one in the UK or not. Spanish inheritance laws differ to British ones, so take the advice of your solicitor and draft a will which covers all your assets in Spain.

NIE: A NIE number is an essential document for anybody buying a property in Spain. It is easy to obtain and you require one to do the following:

* Apply for a mortgage or loan
* Buy or sell a property
* Buy or sell a vehicle
* Obtain a job
* Inherit assets in Spain
* Insure property
* Pay Taxes
* Sign on to social security

To obtain your NIE number, you must attend your local police station and visit the Foreigners Department (Departmento de Extranjeros). This can be a fairly lengthy and arduous process, so be sure that you are armed with all the relevant paperwork - it is not an experience you want to have to go through twice! Take with you the following:

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Your passport and a photocopy of your passport number and photo
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Your full address in Spain (either the address of your rented accommodation, a friend's address or the address of the property you intend to purchase)

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Written reason for applying. This can be either a letter from your bank in Spain or your lawyer, stating that you are purchasing a property, or an employer, if you have a job lined up.

An official will then fill in the paperwork for you and present you with a stamped copy of the application form. Take this copy with you when you return to collect your number, usually between four to six weeks later.

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Saturday, February 27, 2010

About Barcelona

Barcelona is one of the most visited cities in Spain, and it offers visitors a vast range of things to see and do.

Barcelona is unique. It has something for everyone and is one of Europe's top destinations. The only problem you will encounter is that there will never be enough time to explore its many museums and monuments, churches and galleries, its fascinating coastline and its delectable cuisine.

To enjoy your stay to the fullest, you will need to adopt the Barcelonan lifestyle a striking blend of business-like efficiency combined with long alfresco lunches, lazy siestas, ritual evening promenades and an intoxicating nightlife. You will long remember its proud yet generous people, who will welcome you back with open arms when you return, as you surely will.


Inventive and innovative, radical and racy, Barcelona is one of Europe's most dynamic cities. Strolling through its streets is like wandering through a living museum, a legacy of its remarkable 2,000 years of history. From the ancient maze-like Gothic quarter built within the Roman city walls, to the astonishing regimental grid plan of the turn-of-the-19th century Eixample district. Studded with eye-catching jewels of Modernista architecture, the city contains some of the finest and most eccentric art and architecture in the world. Outstanding even by Barcelonan standards is Gaudi's extraordinary Sagrada Familia, which is reason enough to visit the city.

Just as Modernisme the movement that has made Barcelona unique emerged at the end of the 19th century as a desire for change and renovation, so today the city is celebrating its past.


It is restoring its old buildings, introducing new art and architecture and eradicating some severe urban problems, while staying at the forefront of contemporary culture. As a result. Barcelona today is very much alive a city bursting with new pride and self-confidence, which cannot fail to excite and delight.
Barcelona geography


Barcelona is in northeastern Spain, 166km (103 miles) from the French border. The city occupies 99sq km (62sq miles), with 13km (8 miles) of Mediterranean coastline, including 4km (25 miles) of sandy beaches. It is bounded by the mountains of Montjuic (to the south) and Tibidabo (to the northwest), and framed by the rivers Llobregat (to the south) and Besos (to the north).

CATALUNYA (CATALONIA)


The autonomous region of Catalunya (Catalonia) covers an area of 31, 930sq km (12,325sq miles) (6.3 per cent of Spain) and has a population of around 7 million (15 per cent of the Spanish population), 70 per cent of whom live in greater Barcelona. It is Spain's leading economic region, producing 8 per cent of the country's gross national product. Nearly 40 per cent of all visitors to Spain come to Catalonia. No one visiting Barcelona should leave without trying its cuisine, described by the American food critic Colman Andrews as 'the last great culinary secret in Europe'.
Rooted in the fresh local ingredients of the mountains, the plains and sea, the food is delicious and surprisingly subtle in flavor.

MEDITERRANEAN DIET

The main ingredients of traditional Catalan dishes are typically Mediterranean: tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, aubergines (eggplant), courgettes (zucchini), peppers and herbs, which, when blended, to form samfaina, a delicious sauce served with many dishes. Other principal sauces include pieada (nuts, bread, parsley, garlic and saffron), sofregit (a simple sauce of onion, tomato and garlic lightly fried in olive oil) and allioli (a strong, garlicky mayonnaise).
For centuries pork has been the cornerstone of the Catalan diet. Little is wasted even the peus de pore (pigs' trotters) are considered a delicacy. No bar would be complete without its haunch of pernil (cured ham), a popular tapas dish, and you often see a variety of sausages hanging from the rafters of restaurants and delicatessens. Lamb, chicken, duck, beef and game also feature strongly, often prepared a la brasa (on an open charcoal grill) and served with a large serving of allioli (garlic mayonnaise).

MEAT AND SEAFOOD

In Catalan cuisine, meat is commonly combined with fruit, creating such mouthwatering dishes as pollastre amb pera (chicken with pears) and eomll amb prunes (rabbit with prunes). However, it is the unique 'surf'n'turf' combinations that sea and mountain (Mar i Muntanya) produce which differentiates Catalan cuisine from the cookery of other Spanish regions. Se Pia amb mandonguilles (cuttlefish with meatballs) and mar i eel ('sea and heaven' made with sausages, rabbit, shrimp and fish) are especially tasty. Near the coast, fish dishes reign supreme, ranging from simple grilled sardinas (sardines) and hearty zarsuela (seafood stew) to eyecatching shellfish displays Try suquet de peix (fish and potato soup) or the more unusual broudegos ('dog soup') made with fish, onions and orange juice, followed by speciality dishes arras negre (rice cooked in black squid ink), fideua (a local variant of paella, using vermicelli and noodles and not rice) or bacalla (salt cod), which comes a la lIauna (with garlic, tomato and white wine), esqueixada (a salt cod and black olive salad), amb samfaina or amb romesco (a piquant sauce, made from a mixture of crushed nuts, tomatoes and spicy red pepper).

BARCELONA WINES

A short distance south of Barcelona, the Penedes is the main Catalan wine region, producing red (negre), white (blanc) and rose (rosat) wines. Look for the reliable Torres, Masia Bach and Rene Barbier labels. Catalan cava (sparkling wine) also comes from the Penedes wineries, made by the methode champenoise. Famous names include Freixenet and Codorniu, which can be sampled in the cava bars of Barcelona.
To the north, the Alella and Emporda regions produce white wines, while Priorat produces excellent, heavy reds. If you have only a short time to visit Barcelona and would like to take home some unforgettable memories you can do something local and capture the real flavour of the city. The following suggestions will give you a wide range of sights and experiences that won't take very long, won't cost very much and will make your visit very special. If you only have time to choose just one of these, you will have found the true heart of the city.

FLIGHTS TO BARCELONA

Spain's national airline, Iberia, has scheduled flights to Barcelona's EI Prat de Llobregat Airport from major Spanish and European cities. The city is served by over 30 international airlines and has direct flights to more than 80 international destinations.

Airlines operating flights to Barcelona include easyJet, from Gatwick, Luton and Stansted and Ryan Air which flies from Stansted and Luton to Girona (80km/50 miles north of Barcelona) from where there is a bus to Barcelona. British Airways and its alliance partner, Iberia, fly from Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham and Manchester. British Midland (bmi) flies from Heathrow, and easyJet also flies from Liverpool. Iberia flies from Dublin, in association with its Oneworld partner Aer Lingus.There are no direct flights to Spain from Australia or New Zealand; connections via London, Frankfurt or Paris are the most common.

BARCELONA BY ROAD

The AP7 highway connects the French border with Barcelona, a distance of only 166km (103 miles), though tolls are expensive. The AP2 connects the Spanish capital of Madrid with Barcelona, a distance of 660km (410 miles); most of the trip is also via toll roads. Well paved and lit multi-lane toll roads are common all over Catalonia, and although free carreteras nacionales provide alternatives, they are generally less safe owing to poorer surfaces and lighting

THE METRO BARCELONA

The metro is the easiest and fastest way of moving around the city. There are two different underground train systems, the Metro with its six lines identified by number and color, and the FGC, an older service which is above ground in outer Barcelona. Both lines have been integrated into the same system.
Buses Barcelona has an excellent bus network; pick up a free plan from any tourist office (or download from www.tmb.net). Timetables are also shown at individual bus stops. Buses run 6am10pm. At night there is a Nitbus with routes centered on Plaga de Catalunya throughout the year the Bus Turistic, a hop-on, hop-off service, circuits the main city sights.

BARCELONA BY RAIL

The main regional, national and international rail station is SantsEstacio. Comfortable, fast, express trains connect the city to Paris, Madrid and Valencia and other destinations in Europe.

TAXIS

Pick up a black and yellow taxi at a taxi rank or hail one if it's displaying a green light and the sign Lliure/Libre (free) Fares are not unduly expensive but extra fees are charged for airport trips and for baggage, and at weekends and after 8.30pm. Prices are shown on a sticker inside.

CAR RENTAL BARCELONA

The leading international car rental companies have offices at Barcelona airport and you can reserve a car in advance (essential in peak periods) either direct or through a travel agent. Local companies offer competitive rates and will usually deliver a car to the airport.

FARES AND CONCESSIONS

Travel cards (called targetas) come in options of 2 to 5 days or for 10 journeys (called a T10) and are available from all Metro stations. They are valid for Metro, FGC, bus and some overland (RENFE) trains; transfers (on the same mode of transport) are allowed. With targetas, you generally end up paying half the price (or less, depending on the amount of travel you do) of a single journey.
Most museums and galleries offer a 50 per cent discount on entrance fees to older people.

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Tuesday, February 23, 2010

New Ryanair routes from Malaga Airport 2010

Ryanair will be opening its new Malaga Airport base in June, 2010.The budget airline will now be operating over 360 flights per week from Malaga Airport to international and Spanish destinations. New routes include:

• Aarhus (from 23rd June)
• Berlin Schoenefeld (from 25th June)
• Bratislava (from 23rd June)
• Eindhoven (from 23rd June)
• Gothenburg (from 23rd June)
• Krakow (from 24th June)
• Maastricht (from 23rd June)
• Memmingen (from 24th June)
• Oslo Torp (from 23rd June)
• Paris Beauvais (from 23rd June)
• Pisa (from 24th June)
• Santander (from 24th June)
• Santiagho (from 23rd June)
• Stockholm Skavsta (from 24th June)
• Tampere (from 25th June)
• Valladolid (from 23rd June)
• Venice Treviso (from 24th June)
• Wroclaw (from 25th June)
• Zaragoza (from 24th June)

The new routes will follow the opening of the new terminal at Malaga Airport, which has been under construction for the past three years, and the expansion at Malaga will offer passengers many new routes worldwide with Ryanair.
Along with cheap flights, cheap car hire can be pre-booked from Malaga Airport, and all other airports throughout Europe, to avoid delays and hassle when you arrive

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Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Fuerteventura and La Palma things to do

With the longest shoreline of all the Canary Islands, plenty of spacious, empty beaches, and an arid climate that guarantees year-round sunshine, Fuerteventura is just the spot for windsurfers, beach bums, nudists, sun lovers, anglers, and those seeking total seclusion.

It is the island closest to AfricaMost of the island's 30,000 residents live in Puerto del Rosario, the nondescript capital, located about midway along the eastern coast. Atlantic rollers break against the rocky northwestern shore, while the best beaches and resorts lie in the dune riddled southeast. Here the once sleepy fishing village of Morro Jable has mushroomed into Fuerteventura's largest resort. In the north, Corralejo is another once quiet fishing village turned booming resort town. Fishing, from the beaches or a boat, is excellent here.

The island can be toured in a day, taking in the rugged interior including Betancuria, a secluded oasis chosen by Jean de Bethencourt (a Norman Frenchman who settled Fuerteventura) as the island's original capital in 1404. The town was originally built on a hill above the valley facing the ocean, but was moved to its present location for better protection after several pirate attacks. This explains why the 15th-century Iglesia-Catedral de Santa Maria (Cathedral Church of St. Mary) has a hidden trapdoor in its ceiling where church valuables were hidden when pirates drew nigh.

The neighboring town of Tuineje is known for the November 13, 1740 Battle of Tamasite. During the battle, which took place around Tamasite Mountain, a band of intrepid islanders drove camels before marauding English corsairs, forcing the pirates to expend their ammunition. The islanders then fell upon the English invaders before they could reload and thus defeated them. The battle is recreated every year on its anniversary. Another enjoyable excursion can be made from Corralejo over translucent waters to the offshore Isla de los Lobos.

La Palma car hire

One of the few islands to have escaped inundation by tourists, possibly because it is short on good beaches, La Palma has sufficient numbers of other attractions to justify a visit. Shaped like a leaf, it measures approximately 13 miles by 29 miles and is possibly the most beautiful island of the archipelago which is why it is known as the Isla Bonita, or Pretty Island. It's also the greenest isle in the group, hence its other nickname, the Isla Verde (Green Island).

Car hire in La Palma can be booked before you fly and picked up directly from the airport.A massive crater, the Caldera de Taburiente, occupies the center of the island, with ravines and streams running down to the rugged coastline. At over 6,000 feet, La Palma is the world's highest island. Below its pine-forested heights are intensely cultivated terraced fields producing tropical and other fruits (as well as tobacco plants, originally imported from Cuba, from which the island's noted cigars are made).

The capital, Santa Cruz de la Palma, was once the third most important port of the Spanish empire. It still retains picturesque colonial-style homes and a 16th-century Ayuntamiento (City Hall). Today, with 18,000 inhabitants, it is one of the most pleasant towns in the Canaries. Although facilities and services for tourists are not as well developed on La Palma as on Grand Canary or Tenerife, it does attract Europeans who prefer quiet vacations.

Santa Cruz de la Palma

Standing at the foot of a colossal cliff, which is part of an eroded crater, the island capital has an unhurried Old World atmosphere. Along its quiet streets are excellent examples of the architecture of the Canary Islands. Particularly noteworthy are the 16th-century Ayuntamiento (City Hall), with a beautiful Renaissance facade, and Iglesia del Salvador (Church of the Savior), a 16th-century structure with a fine coffered ceiling.

Also of interest is the Museo Naval , a maritime museum in a life-size replica of Christopher Columbus's Santa Maria.

La Gomera attractions

La Gomera, although only 146 square miles in area, this round island rises steeply from a precipitous shoreline to nearly 5,000 feet at its central peak, Mt. Garajonay. The craggy seacoast and mountainous terrain make transportation from one valley to the next so difficult that the islanders developed a whistling language to communicate with one another over distances up to several miles.

Situated about 20 miles across the water from Tenerife's southwestern coast, La Gomera is usually visited as a day trip by tourists vacationing on one of the larger Canary Islands. Jean de Bethencourt first invaded the island, against stiff Guanche resistance, in 1404. Christopher Columbus (known in Spanish as Cristobal CoIon), who stopped here in 1492 to procure water and provisions on his first voyage of discovery, is reputed to have spent some memorable days with the mistress of the island, the widow Beatriz de Peraza, Countess of Gomera; his visit is a source of great local pride.

In San Sebastian, the island's tiny picturesque capital, is the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de La Asuncion (Church of Our Lady of the Assumption), where Columbus and his crews heard mass before setting off for parts unknown. The church, on Calle del Medio near the tourist office, was restored in 1992 in honor of the 500th anniversary of Columbus's voyage to the Americas. The house in which the explorer is said to have slept, called the Casa de Colon, is now a museum housing a permanent collection of pre-Columbian art.

Also noteworthy is the 15th-century Torre del Conde (Count's Tower), an old fortress standing near the sea, which has been declared a national historic monument. 'For shopping, stroll along the main street, Calle Real, an ideal place to pick up the local redclay pottery.

Gomera's Parque Nacional de Garajonay, encompassing the peak and surrounding woodlands some 10,000 acres is a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site, home to over 850 species of plants and flowers. The rare Laurisilva, an ancient, tertiaryera laurel plant whose lovely petals once graced the whole of the Mediterranean region, can be found at Garajonay, its last outpost. The Centro de Visitantes (Visitors' Center) is located northeast of San Sebastian, at Juego de Bolas. Turn off the main road to Vallehermoso (signposted) at Las Rosas and head south. To arrange for a free guide, call a week in advance. There are signposted walking trails and free maps available. Dense fog tends to creep in during the afternoon, so try to visit before 3 PM. The park is closed Sundays; there's an admission charge.

El Hierro things to do

The smallest and least populated of the archipelago's major islands, EI Hierro is the harshest of all, with black volcanic soil, steep massifs, deep craters, barren mountains, and a serious dearth of spring water. Its name means iron, and the island really does appear to be lost in the Iron Age. Inhabited by prehistoric fauna and giant lizards, this rocky 107 square miles is the ideal spot for those who appreciate solitude and nature at its most dramatic.

The farthest west of the islands (till Columbus stumbled across the Americas, it was considered the westernmost point in the known world, the zero meridian), EI Hierro appears grim and unfriendly from the sea, since its coasts are of black lava dotted with cactus. Clouds often shroud its central zone, a plateau 4,900 feet above sea level. Not the entire island is stark, however; tiny pockets of emerald green glitter in the mountainous interior, providing pasture for flocks of sheep. Their milk, combined with cow's and/or goat's milk, is an essential ingredient of the popular queso herreno, a slightly sour tasting smoked cheese.

The hardy Bimbache, EI Hierro's original inhabitants, solved the problem of the island's lack of spring water by harvesting water from the evergreen leaves of the garoe tree. The trees were so important to the islanders that, until fairly recently, the ownership of one tree was a communal affair, with different branches belonging to different proprietors. The island's inhospitable conditions eventually forced much of the population to emigrate to South America.

Nearly half of the residents live in the capital, Valverde, which is known for its wine. From Valverde, visitors can make short excursions to such natural wonders as La Dehesa, a huge igneous desert whose rolling slopes create the hypnotic illusion of a continual wave. Towering over this calm expanse is the Santuario de Nuestra Senora de los Reyes (Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Catholic Monarchs), which every four years is the focal point of a great pilgrimage. During these processions, the image of the Virgin Mary is borne for 19 miles along harsh, windy roads to the capital, accompanied by pilgrims, some bearing candles, some playing native music.

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Things to do in Lanzarote

Lanzarote An eerie, burntout island pockmarked by hundreds of extinct volcanoes, Lanzarote is the most physically astonishing of the Canaries. Its bizarrely spectacular landscape evokes in first-time visitors the sense of having been transported to the very beginning or end of time. A day or two is enough to see this awe-inspiring scenery, but many travelers are tempted to linger longer on some of the island's white sand beaches. Set 85 miles northeast of Las Palmas and only 65 miles from the coast of Morocco, Lanzarote has some 300 volcanoes, and petrified seas of lava -known as malpais (badland) writhe across parts of the island.

Nevertheless, its farms produce sumptuous melons, figs, onions, and tomatoes, thanks to a remarkable system of cultivation. Local farmers spread picon (black volcanic ash) on their fields to absorb and retain moisture, and thus manage to coax an abundant harvest in a land that has no running water and sparse rainfall. They also produce a notable wine from the malvasia (malmsey) grape, which is grown on vines planted in walled hollows to protect them from the hot, searing winds.

By such ingenuity and persistence, the native population (now 50,000) managed to survive from approximately the time when the Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello landed here in the 14th century (and gave the island its name) until mass tourism hit in the 1980s. Some 700,000 visitors now set foot on this eastern-most of the Canaries annually, and hotels and apartment blocks abound, as well as desalinization plants to provide water. Fortunately, new buildings may be no higher than three stories, billboards are banned, and construction is confined to three main zones.

Las Montañas del Fuego Lanzarote

Between 1730 and 1736 a series of terrifying eruptions devastated the western part of Lanzarote: burying farmland and a number of villages under volcanic debris. This area now makes up the Parqe Nacional de Timanfaya. Entering from Yaiza, a typcal whitewashed village In the south 14.5 miles (23 km) from Arrecife, visItors come to the Echadero de los CamelJos, where dromedaries wait to carry people on short journeys. Over the lava (there is a charge for this, in addition to the park admission). The main road through the park winds up a hill known as Islote de Hilario, where sub-surface temperatures reach upward of 800F.

Twigs placed in a hollow catch fire within seconds, and when a park ranger pours water down a vent in the earth's surface, a steam geyser instantly erupts. A tour bus cruises The Route of the Volcanoes (with commentary in English) for a close view of this lunar like landscape, where virtually no living creature exists. Before departing, try a volcano-broiled steak at EI Diablo, the park restaurant. The park is open daily; admission charge. Note: Strong footwear is recommended to explore the lava fields, and those with cameras should remember to bring a blower brush to clean off the dust.

La Geria, just 3km east of Yaiza, is one of the island's main wine producing centers. A short detour off the main road to Arrecife, north toward Mashache, offers views of the peculiar horseshoe-shaped stone structures in which the grapevines thrive. South of Yaiza, the coast contains a variety of natural wonders: the Salinas de J anubio salt flats; the dancing waters of Los Hervideros, which are jets of seawater shooting out of volcanic rock; and the EI Gofo green lagoon, separated from the sea by a large crater, where vendors sell semiprecious olivine stones collected in the area.

Lanzarote Car hire

Lanzarote car hire can be picked up at the airport on arrival, when pre-booked online. Car rentals in Lanzarote are reasonably priced and if you want to hire a car to tour the island, all the major car hire companies are represented at Lanzarote Airport, including Avis, Hertz and a host of local companies.

The north of Lanzarote

An 18mile (29km) drive north of Arrecife leads to Jameos del Agua, a beautiful grotto carved by nature out of black volcanic rock, with a lagoon-formed when molten lava met the sea-inhabited by blind white crabs. The grotto has been transformed into a natural, partially enclosed entertainment and shopping complex; at one end is a beautifully landscaped outdoor pool area. Folk music shows, with dinner and dancing; a terraced top floor bar with sweeping ocean views; and a mini-museum dedicated to volcanoes, including a large rock collection and a state-of-the-art video on volcaology, are some of the features here. The entertainment grotto is open daily.

Some 300 yards away is the Cueva de los Verdes (Green Cave), the world's largest volcanic tunnel, a place where the Guanche and later inhabitants took refuge from invaders. Extending nearly four miles to the sea, it was created by cooling lava. At the northernmost tip of the island, 7 miles (11 km) farther along, is the Mirador del Rio, a lookout point atop old fortifi cations where there is a breathtaking view of some of the smaller Canaries - Graciosa, Montana Clara, and Alegranza.

Returning southward, the road passes Haria, a village of white houses in a green valley dotted with hundreds of palms, and the last home of architect Cesar Manrique (who was killed in a car accident in 1992). The town is the most picturesque and authentic of the island's villages.

One of Lanzarote's most breathtaking views is from the heights of the Mirador de Haria, 3 miles (5 km) to the south. Farther on lies Teguise, the former island capital. Set on top of an extinct volcano, Teguise has a castle, the Castillo de Guanapay, which has the best views in town of some of the smaller Canaries. The town's colonial appearance, convents, churches, and the 18th-century Palacio Espinolas (now the seat of the local government) make it a worthwhile stop.

Things to do in Arrecife

The island's current capital, Arrecife, is not particularly interesting, but it does have two castles, the 16th-century Castillo de San Gabriel (open weekdays from 9 AM to 2 PM; admission charge) and the 18th-century Castillo de San Jose. The latter, renovated by Cesar Manrique, is now the home of the Museo deArtes Contemporaneas. Except for the hotel bars, there is very little nightlife in the capital; most of the action, such as it is, is in the beach areas.

For a look at more of Cesar Manrique's work, visit the Fundación Cesar Manrique, in the village of Taro, on the eastern end of Tahiche. The foundation, located in one of Manrique's former homes, illustrates the talent and tastes of the artist, who took advantage of an existing network of lava formations to create an impressive living space. It houses a bookshop, souvenir store, and a snack bar, and is open daily; weekend hours 10 AM to 2 PM.

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Car hire Tenerife

Car hire in Tenerife is easy to pick up and drop off and Tenerife Airport car rentals can be pre-booked before you fly to save you money and hassle when you arrive at the airport.

At 793 square miles, the largest of the Canary Islands is only 20 minutes by air west of Las Palmas on Grand Canary and just a little more than a two-hour flight from Madrid. Local legend has it that God put so much effort into creating the beaches of Grand Canary that night fell before he could finish the mountains.

When he came to Tenerife, he began with the mountains, and this time darkness fell before he could get around to the beaches. Thus Tenerife has fewer beaches than its neighbor and the sand is black. Still, there is enough to attract the visitor. Towering above Tenerife's mixture of lush vegetation and arid desert is the massive dormant volcano, Pica del Teide, Spain's highest peak at 12,200 feet, the island's name is believed to have evolved from a Guanche word meaning snow-capped mountain.

Because it receives more rain than its neighbors, Tenerife is the archipelago's main agricultural center, producing most of its vegetables (vineyards, along with sugar cane and banana plantations, have long been a mainstay of its economy). The northern and northwestern corners receive the most rainfall, which encourages forests and colorful vegetation, while the south is arid and desolate. Also in the north are the settlements of long standing: Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the provincial capital; La Laguna, site of one of Spain's oldest seats of learning; and Puerto de la Cruz, once important as a fruit and wine-exporting port and now a tourism resort.

Around southern beaches at Los Cristianos and Playa de las Americas, the year-round sunshine has fostered a development boom, covering tracts of desert with apartments and hotels. These resorts, and the nearby Aeropuerto Reina Sofia, are linked with Santa Cruz by a fast four-lane autopista (highway), while another autopista speeds traffic up to Puerto de la Cruz. Interior roads, in contrast, are narrow, winding, and tiring to drive.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife and the North

Backed by saw tooth mountains, this provincial capital is an important port, with more than 200,000 inhabitants and many modern buildings. More Spanish in character and aesthetically more pleasing than Las Palmas, it has no beaches to speak of, and is primarily a city of shops, with boutique-lined Calle del Castillo closed to traffic but filled with hordes of shoppers.

Plaza de Espana, where this pedestrian area begins, is next to the port and is noteworthy for its memorial to the men of Tenerife who died in the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). Visible from quite a distance, the towering monument also serves as a directional marker for tourists making their way back to the center of town. Just off the Plaza de Espana, on the third floor of the Cabildo Insular (island seat of government) is the Museo Arqueologico y Antropologico, which has a collection of 100 Guanche mummies, more than 1,000 skulls and 300,000 bones, and other artifacts of the Canary Islands' original inhabitants.

The museum is closed Sundays and holidays; summer hours 9 AM to 2 PM; admission charge. North of the port, along Avenida de Anaga, where flame trees and palms provide a pleasant tropical air, is the Castillo de Paso Alto, a 17th-century fortress that now houses a regional military museum; open Tuesdays through Sundays from 10 AM to 2 PM.

Five miles (8 km) north of town lies Playa de las Teresitas, which claims to be the world's largest artificial beach; the golden sand covering this mile-long stretch a pleasant place for swimming, sunbathing, or a quick snack at one of its many inexpensive restaurants was imported from the Sahara in the 1960s. From here, the road turns inland and corkscrews steeply upward to the Anaga headland, a dramatic area of knifeedge ridges, ravines, and dense evergreen woods.

At El Bailadero pass, the picturesquely situated village of Taganana can be seen down below, but the road continues west along the crest of the range to the Pico del Ingles Belvedere, a lookout point 3,300 feet above sea level, from which there is a spectacular view of the Pico del Teide rising in the distance. Soon after the road descends to La Laguna, the university town and former island capital, which has an interesting old section highlighted by the Plaza del Adelantado, the 16th century Iglesia de la Concepcion (Church of the Conception, now a national monument), and a 20th-century cathedral with a neoclassical facade.

Loro Parque Tenerife

Loro Parque, a tropical park and zoo with an orchid garden, a dolphin show, and 1,300 parrots - some of which ride bicycles and do other tricks in a parrot show. The park is open daily; admission charge. On Sundays at 11 AM, typical Canaries folk dancing and singing, plus an exhibition of local wrestling, la lucha canada, take place on the grounds of the Tigaiga hotel. The Parque de Taoro also houses the Taoro Casino (see Nightclubs and Nightlife).

La Orotava

In a valley of the same name, overlooking Puerto de la Cruz, which is 6 miles (10 km) away and 1,000 feet below, La Orotava occupies a site that was once a Guanche capital and is among the most compelling settings on the island. One of the oldest towns on Tenerife, it has steep cobbled streets and handsome homes with exquisite balconies, red roofs, and interior patios.

The 18th-century rococo Iglesia de la Concepcion, now a museum, is a highlight with its impressive 17th-century Baroque altarpiece, as is Artesania La Casa de los Salcones, an arts and crafts center in an old balconied house with a flower-filled patio. Here visitors will find the delicate calado, or drawn-thread embroidery, used for everything from handkerchiefs to tablecloths and manufactured by women working at wooden looms.

The annual Fiesta de Corpus Christi during the week surrounding June 15 is a celebration of the religious fervor, energy, and artistry of the town's residents.Although the event is celebrated throughout the Canaries, the festivities are at their most colorful here. Before the procession, the town's squares and streets are covered with carpets made of hundreds of thousands of flower petalsbougainvillea, dahlias, geraniums, carnations as well as crushed leaves, pine needles, and colorful designs in sand. The largest and most intricate carpet is laid on the Plaza del Ayuntamiento (Town Hall Square).

Pico del Teide Tenerife

This is one excursion not to be missed on any visit to the Canaries. Mt. Teide, which towers 12,200 feet above sea level and overlooks a sea of clouds, is situated in the Parque Nacional de las Caiiadas del Teide, a beautiful forest of heather, evergreens, eucalyptus, and Canarian pine at an altitude of some 6,500 feet. The park is reached via the town and the valley of La Orotava, where corn, chestnuts, and bananas are raised in abundance. It's open daily during daylight hours; no admission charge. Beyond La Orotava, the road cuts through the Mar de Nubes (a sea, or canopy, of clouds that usually hugs the mountain about halfway up) to a desolate, treeless amphitheater.

This is Las Cafladas, an ancient volcanic crater some 47 miles in diameter, from the center of which surges the great bulk of EI Teide, a newer volcano and the tallest mountain in Spain. Las Cafladas is scarred and strewn with boulders; the last eruption in 1798 destroyed a peak that was even larger than El Teide.

A cable car takes 35 passengers on a 10-minute journey to the base of the cone. From there it is a 25 minute hike to the edge, from which most of the Canaries and even the coast of Africa is visible on a clear day. Those short of breath should take care, as the air is quite rarefied at this altitude. Dedicated climbers can spend the night near the peak at the Cueva de Hielo (Ice Cave), a mountain shelter; for less adventurous sorts, there is a rustic parador near the cable car.

Icod de los Vinos

West of Puerto de la Cruz a road winds above seawhipped rocks and black sand coves to this small town, the center of the island's wine and malmsey grape-producing area. The 16th-century Renaissance Iglesia de San Marcos is worth a look, but the town's proudest possession is the drago, Tenerife's oldest dragon tree, said to be more than 1,000 years old, and whose sap was used by the Guanche for curing ailments (both are located in the center of town, on Plaza de la Iglesia). From Icod, a drive through banana plantations leads to the nearby beach resort of San Marcos, amid black cliffs, then south to the whitewashed town of Garachico, the island's original capital.

The main point of interest here is the Castillo de San Miguel, an old fortress which these days houses a natural history museum of island fossils, shells, and minerals. There are several other museums in town as well, including the Casa de la Cultura (House of Culture), with exhibits of Canarian life in the 16th and 17th centuries; a Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Sciences Museum); and a Museo de Arte Contemporeneo (Contemporary Art Museum). For information on these museums contact the Ayuntamiento de Garachico.

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Things to do in the Canary Islands

A cluster of seven major and six minor islands in the Atlantic Ocean, which mix European, African, and even American influences, the Canary Island archipelago lies about 65 miles off the northwest coast of Africa. The Canaries are aptly called the Fortunate Isles; bathed by the Gulf Stream and ruffled by the trade winds; they are spread out in a line only about 4° north of the Tropic of Cancer, at roughly the same latitude as Florida, and in general enjoy a spring like climate throughout the year, with temperatures mostly in the 70s F.

Yet physical contrasts are dramatic, from verdant tropical vegetation to Dantesque, lavacovered lunar landscapes; from towering, snowcapped mountains to rolling desert dunes; from ultramodern tourism complexes to quaint, whitewashed hamlets and recondite valleys populated with tertiaryera flora and fauna. Las Islas Canarias attract an everincreasing number of tourists, but most never venture far from the beaches, leaving the rugged wonders of the hinterlands for more intrepid souls.

There are 13 islands, but only Grand Canary (Gran Canaria in Spanish), Tenerife, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, La Gomera, El Hierro, and La Palma are of any significant size. Born of volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, the Canaries are dotted with hundreds of volcanoes, and one or two are still smoldering. Because of variations in altitude and climate, some islands have justly been described as miniature continents. On the heights, the vegetation is alpine, and includes Canary pine and broom. On the lower slopes, irrigation of the rich volcanic soils produces an astonishing abundance of tropical and semi-tropical fruits.

Scorching African winds from the Sahara create desert conditions on the easternmost islands of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, as well as along the eastern coasts of Grand Canary and Tenerife. But lofty volcanic peaks block clouds rolling in from the ocean and create damp, luxuriant conditions elsewhere.

These isles have piqued the imagination of man since the beginning of recorded history. Homer spoke of them as a privileged kingdom devoid of winter, and Herodotus identified them as the site of the mythical garden of Hesperides (where Atlas stood supporting the weight of the heavens). Plato believed the islands were the remains of the mythical lost continent of Atlantis, and Ptolemy, the 2nd-century geographer, situated his first meridian 0° longitude at EI Hierro, the most remote of the islands.

There are canaries in the Canaries, but the archipelago's name comes from another source. Pliny wrote of an expedition sent to these legendary isles by the African king, Juba. The explorers returned with huge, wild dogs; hence the name canarias, from the Latin canis (dog). Even today a local breed of fierce gray dogs called verdinos, or bardinos, still roams some parts of the islands.

Canary Islands history

When the Spanish attempted to take the islands in the 15th century, they had problems not from canines but from the original human inhabitants, the Guanche cave dwellers, who put up fierce resistance and were not conquered until 1496. Little is known about where the Guanche people came from or how. Shepherds and rudimentary farmers, they practiced a cult of the dead, developing a complicated mummification process similar to that used in Egypt. Carvings at the Cueva de Belmaco (Belmaco Cave) in La Palma, yet to be deciphered, promise to reveal much more about this fascinating people.

But the recent discovery of a stone with ancient Berber inscriptions supports the prevailing theory that the Guanche were descendants of North African tribes and may have emigrated from the mainland sometime around 500 BC. As the Spaniards established themselves on the islands, the Guanche who were not killed off by disease, famine, volcanic eruptions, or slavery were absorbed into the Spanish culture.

Some of the local people retain the physical characteristics of their forebears (they were tall, fairskinned, and lighthaired), and traces of their existence remain all over the archipelago in the form of ceramics and leather artifacts, geometric cave paintings, mummies, remnants of their traditions and language (in placenames such as Timanfaya and Tenerife), and their food. Today's islanders have a newly awakened interest in their ancestors, partly in reaction to what they feel is neglect from distant Madrid. From time to time throughout the islands, slogans appear on posters and walls saying Godos fuera! (Goths as in Visigoth, the islanders' pejorative name for a mainland Spaniard go home!).

Canary Islands industry and agriculture

For most of their early history, the Canaries depended on agriculture as the mainstay of their economy, with their aromatic malvasia (malmsey) wine gaining wide favor in European courts during the 16th century (Shakespeare had Falstaff call for a cask of Canary Jack). During the 18th and 19th centuries, sugarcane, muscatel wine, and a tiny red mite called the cochineal insect brought wealth to the Canaries.

The natural dye obtained from the insect, which lives off the islands' cacti, was exported in large quantities to Britain and France until the invention of artificial colorings. Later, the Canaries prospered with bananas, potatoes, tomatoes, and tobacco. For a long time, trade was monopolized by British firms, which also made the towns of Las Palmas on Grand Canary and Santa Cruz de Tenerife on Tenerife important coaling stations for their ships.

Wealthy Europeans began spending winters in the Canaries during the late 19th century. Today five million tourists visit the islands annually, and although there are now more than 300,000 hotel beds, it can be extremely difficult to get a room in the better resorts during high season, from December through Easter. The Canary archipelago is one of Spain's 17 autonomous communities.

But since 1927 the islands have been split into two provinces, and there is ongoing rivalry between the ports of Las Palmas and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Las Palmas is the provincial capital of the eastern islands: Grand Canary (the most populated), Fuerteventura (a virtual desert), and Lanzarote (which has the most impressive volcanic scenery). Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the capital of the western group: Tenerife (the largest island), La Palma (the green island), La Gomera, and EI Hierro. The archipelago has its own parliament, and each island has its own cabildo (council) to look after local affairs.

A mixture of cultures influences Canarian food, which tends to be hearty and simple. Gofio, a filling paste made of flour, water, and milk, is an island staple from the Guanche. Sancocho canario is fresh fish cooked with both sweet and regular potatoes and served with kneaded gofio and mojo, an essential Canarian seasoning made with oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, and various spices such as paprika, coriander, and pepper. Mojo picón is a hot seasoning made with peppers; watch out, because it's ubiquitous, and its benign aroma belies its true incendiary nature.

Papas arrugadas (literally, wrinkled potatoes), potatoes boiled in their skins and served with mojo, are a popular snack. Some of the world's richest fishing grounds lie between the Canaries and the African coast, a plentitude that yields such specialties as stuffed chicharros (mackerel) and Tenerife-style cazuela canaria, a delectable casserole of fresh or salted fish. Common meat dishes include roast chicken in banana cream, tender cabrito asado (roasted kid goat), and jabali (wild boar) from Gomera. Most red meat is served with salmorejo, a sauce of vinegar, garlic, and assorted spices. Vegetable dishes and stews are usually made with bubangos (summer squash), cabbage, and watercress.

Weather in the Canary Islands

The tropical and subtropical climate of some of the islands has produced such fresh fruit as avocados, bananas, mangoes, cherimoyas, and papayas. Equally enticing are the desserts, including frangollo, a sweet made of corn, milk, and honey, and gofio turrón, a nougat candy. Cheese aficionados have a wide variety of cured, raw, and smoked goat and sheep cheeses from which to choose. Meals are often rounded off with ronmiel, a punch made of distilled sugarcane and palm sap; mistela, coffee laced with sugar and brandy; banana liqueur; or the renowned malmsey wine, which can be a young verde (green),purpura (purplered), seeD (dry), or dulce (sweet), depending on the harvesting period.

Today's Canary Islanders make their living farming, fishing, and producing handicrafts as well as by working at various jobs in the modern resort developments. They speak Spanish with a musical accent reminiscent of Latin America (to which many Canarians have emigrated over the years). Their folk music also has a Latin American rhythm; folk groups play flutes, drums, guitars, and the timple, a small stringed instrument. Visitors to the Canary Islands will be charmed not only by the rich tapestry of music, landscape, history, and gastronomy but also by the warm inhabitants. Keep in mind when planning visits that in the Canary Islands, as in other parts of Spain, churches, museums, historic sites, and other places of touristic interest usually open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM, and then again from around 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 PM; schedules may change with the seasons.

Festivals in the Canary Islands

Camels, bands, and lavishly dressed islanders participate in the Cabalgata de los Tres Reyes (Cavalcade of the Three Kings), which takes place on January 5 or 6 in several towns throughout the islands, most notably Las Palmas and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Also celebrated on all the islands with astonishing exuberance is February's Camaval; Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Las Palmas compete to outdo each other with dazzling and outrageous parades, costumes, and nonstop music and dancing; Latin American stars and bands are usually on hand to help liven things up. Semana Santa (Holy Week), from Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) through Domingo de ResUlrecci6n (Easter Sunday), is observed with solemn processions throughout the islands.

In addition, each town has a fiesta to honor its patron saint (exact dates can vary from year to year). During the last two weeks of April, Tegueste, near La Laguna, Tenerife, combines its romena (flower-bedecked oxcart procession) with a show of 15,000 bottles of wine from 20 Spanish bodegas. Early in May, the Dia de la Cruz (Day of the Cross) is the occasion for one of the year's most lighthearted fiestas, particularly on the island of El Hierro. On Tenerife, in June, carpets of flowers and elaborate paintings of sand are arranged on the streets of La Laguna and La Orotava for Corpus Christi processions.

During September, San Sebastian on La Gomera holds its Semana de Colon (Columbus Week) celebrations (commemorating the explorer's passage through the islands in 1492, the first stop on his historic voyage across the Atlantic). September 8 is a big day on Grand Canary, when a colorful procession pays homage to Nuestra Senora del Pino (Our Lady of the Pine) in Teror. The port town of Puerto de la Cruz in Tenerife hosts an annual Festival de Cine Ecologico (Ecological Film Festival) during the third week of November.

Once every five years, La Palma holds its Fiestas Lustrales, a two-week festival in honor of Nuestra Senora de las Nieves (Our Lady of the Snows) in Santa Cruz de la Palma, in which the highlight is the Danza de los Enanos (Dwarfs' Dance, a day-long event in which two dozen or more costumed islanders dance polkas); the next celebration will be held this summer from July 2 through August 16. Finally, Las Palmas hosts the Festival de Opera in February and March, and in La Laguna, on Tenerife, the Festival Internacional del Teatro y de la Danza (International Festival of Theater and Dance) takes place from March through May.

Gran Canaria Car hire

Book Gran Canaria car hire before you fly to save money and time when you arrive at the airport on the island. Cheap airport car hire in Gran Canaria is easy to book online and you can choose from every major car hire company, including Hertz, Helle Hollis and Avis, and a range of local car rental companies in Gran Canaria.

Grand Canary (Gran Canaria), the most heavily populated of the Canary Islands, covers only 592 square miles but encompasses a variety of landscapes and climates. When it is cool and cloudy along the northern slopes where tomatoes, potatoes, sugarcane, and bananas flourish sunbathers can be soaking up the rays on beaches in the cloudless south. At the same time, chill winds may be sweeping over this circular island's 6,400-foot central heights, ruffling the upland forests of laurel, pine, and eucalyptus. Sheer ravines cut into the volcanic mountains of the center, and agriculture flourishes because of intricate irrigation schemes.

While ever-increasing numbers of sun-hungry visitors flock to the fine beaches of the southern coast, most of the island's 600,000 inhabitants live in the north in the bustling capital of Las Palmas. Stretched along a strip of seafront at the island's northeastern tip, Las Palmas is the largest city in the archipelago, with 350,000 inhabitants, a major port, a fading tourist resort, and a shopping center.

In the interior of the island, southwest of Las Palmas along narrow mountain roads, is Tejeda, standing about 4,800 feet above sea level amid a bleak, volcanic landscape. The setting, described by the Spanish poet Miguel de Unamuno as a petrified storm, is awesome. More soothing is the Maspalomas Playa del InglesSan Agustin resort area, sometimes called the Costa Canaria, along the island's southern coast.

The area stretches for miles, embracing three resort developments, excellent beaches, and a mini-Sahara of spectacular sand dunes. Quainter, more secluded spots are opening up in the coves west of MaspalomasPlaya del Ingles. The tiny fishing community of Puerto de Mogan is fast becoming the retreat of the yachting set, who are attracted by its charming marina and enchanting canal-cooled Mediterranean village.

The city of Las Palmas

Las Palmas stretches from La Isleta peninsula and the Puerto de la Luz area, where cruise liners and merchant vessels dock, south along a narrow isthmus. The Castillo de La Luz, a castlefortress on the Isleta on Calle Juan Rejon, was built in 1494 to protect the town from pirates and other invaders (including the English fleet of Sir Francis Drake) and has been restored to serve as a cultural center. Just south of the Isleta, on the western side of the isthmus, begins a twomile beach, Playa de las Canteras. Running parallel to the beach is the Paseo de las Canteras, a promenade boasting numerous bars, cafes, and a variety of restaurants: not just Spanish but Swedish, Italian, Chinese, Finnish, Mexican, Indian, and German.

Most resort hotels are in this strip as well. These, however, have suffered from a tourist exodus to the south of the island. The bulks are shabby and frayed, and serve the lower end of the package circuit. The public market, located in the southern fringes of the barrio, is still appealing. It occupies an entire block at the corner of Calle Nestor de la Torre and Calle Galicia.

Any bus traveling along Calle Leon y Castillo at Parque Santa Catalina also goes to Parque Doramas. Another parque de San Telmo, is farther south, where the broad, bustling shopping street, Calle Mayor de Triana, begins and leads south to the Vegueta, the city's old quarter. Parallel to Triana is the CasaMuseo Perez GaLdos, the former home of Benito Perez Galdos, a 19th and 20th-century writer, playwright, and campaigner against social injustice. It's closed Sundays and afternoons; admission charge.

The Vegueta Las Palmas

The Vegueta, the city's historic center, an area of peaceful cobbled streets, old balconied buildings, and pleasant squares, is a bit farther south (from the Isleta or Puerto de la Luz area, take a taxi or bus No.1). Here, fronting the noble Plaza de Santa Ana (St. Ann Square), is the Catedral de Las Palmas, a 15th-century cathedral that is Gothic in origin, with a later, neoclassical exterior. The cathedral's Museo Diocesano de Arte Sacra boasts a collection of magnificent Flemish and Castilian paintings.

Directly across the street from the cathedral is the CasaMuseo Colon, the former governors' residence. This dignified mansion hosted Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon in Spanish) for a short time in 1502 before he headed to the Americas on one of his later voyages. It now functions as a small museum, containing objects from the period of Columbus's explorations, including heavy cannon, faded maps, and models of the explorer's vessels. Nearby is the Museo Canario, displaying ceramics and implements of the original island inhabitants. The first floor has glass cases containing hundreds of skulls of the Guanche, some showing evidence of trepanation techniques used in primitive medicine. Most striking are the mummified remains of entire bodies.

North of Las Palmas

Cenobio de Valeron, a remarkable archaeological site, is 15 miles (25 km) west of Las Palmas via the C810 coastal highway. Here the rock is honeycombed with caves where once, it is believed, young daughters of the Guanche nobility were kept as vestal virgins. From nearby Guia, a road zigzags inland and back eastward through fertile terraced farmland, to Moya and Arucas. The latter, 10 miles (17 km) out of Las Palmas, has a somber Gothic-style church, built during this century, which stands out against .the town's white houses. There are spectacular views from the observation deck at the top of the nearby Montana de Arucas.

Continue south to Teror, 13 miles (21 km) from Las Palmas, whose wooden-balconied mansions are a marvel of traditional, harmonious architecture. At its heart is the 18th-century Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pino (Basilica of Our Lady of the Pine), which houses the much venerated statue of Grand Canary's patron saint, said to have been found in a pine tree in 1481. The statue is the object of the island's annual pilgrimage on September 8.

The original whitewashed fishing village sits on a hill to the north, providing a rustic backdrop to the newer, sleeker enclave below. A ferry ride to neighboring Puerto Rico and Arguineguin (service six times daily from the port; buy tickets on board) is a pleasant, leisurely way to study the underlying coast.

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Things to do in Ibiza

The third largest of the Balearic Islands (about 25 miles east to west and 12 miles north to south) lives up to its reputation as the jet set playground of Europe. Before the 1950s and 1960s, when this once-obscure island began to evolve into an international artists' colony and concourse for the counter-culture, word of its existence had hardly seeped beyond the borders of Spain. Then it became almost a household word and today the island is home away from home to artists and pseudoartists, movie stars, rock stars, and fashion designers.

While Majorca's tourist industry has been leveling off of late, business in Ibiza is booming. The population of its capital, Ibiza town, increases nearly tenfold in summer, so don't even think of alighting here in high season without a confirmed and reconfirmed hotel reservation (the influx is such that some of the locals have been known to get a little cranky by September). The hippie nomads have been replaced by the young rich, the packaged tourists, and gay travelers; the resulting mix has made the island so cosmopolitan it is virtually impossible to label it Balearic or Spanish.

The Greeks referred to Ibiza and its southern neighbor, Formentera, as the Pittiusae (pine-clad islands), a word which survives today in the word pitiuso, which visitors will see attached to everything from car rental companies to publications. Except for the addition of almond, olive, fig, and other fruit trees, the reference still holds. But Ibiza is also known as the Isla Blanca (White Island), thanks to the brilliance of its square, flat-roofed houses, typically Moorish in style and religiously whitewashed each spring. The local architecture reflects a close affinity to North Africa, a legacy not only of 300 years of Moorish rule, but also of 500 years of colonization by the Carthaginians.

Ibiza Town information

Ibiza town (also known in the local version of Catalan as Eivissa) occupies a hill next to a natural harbor on the southeast coast. The two other main towns are Sant Antoni de Portmany (formerly known as San Antonio Abad) and Santa Eulalia del Rio (also called Santa Eularia del Riu). The former, on a natural harbor, is the epicenter of packaged tourism on the island, with a frenetic nightlife. The latter is a pleasant, quieter resort town at the mouth of the Balearic Islands' only river (actually a seven-mile-long stream).

Ibiza beaches

Ibiza's beaches range from those that are backed with hotels and packed with the tourists to stretches of fine white sand lining deserted coves. Beach buses and boats connect the more popular ones to town; a car or a yacht or even a pedal boat allows travelers to discover the more secluded ones. The beaches closest to Ibiza town are Platja Talamanca to the north and Platja Figueretas and Platja d'en Bossa to the south, but anyone seeking to avoid the crowds keeps on riding to Las Salinas, the salt flats farther south, where the beaches include Platja Es Cavallet, one of the island's official nudist strands, although there is some shedding of bathing suits nearly everywhere.

Similarly, the hotels of Sant Antoni de Portmany hold many more people than can be accommodated on Platja San Antonio, but within easy reach by bus or boat are the beaches of Port des Torrent, Cala Bassa, Cala Conta, and Cala Tarida, all southwest of town. The beach at Santa Eulalia del Rio is also unimpressive, but Platja Llonga to the south and the beaches that stretch northward, Platja d'es Cana, Cala Nova, Cala Lenaare some of the best on the island. Along the north coast are the beaches at the resort development of Portinatx and at Puerto de San Miguel.

Things to see in Ibiza Town

Sightseeing on Ibiza really means observing the passing scene, although the island does have its complement of more conventional sights. Most are in the capital, which is divided into a medieval upper town, the Dalt Vila, and a lower town that, at least in the area around the harbor, dates mainly from the mid-19th century. In the lower town, the Barrio de Sa Penya, stretching east from the Estación Maritima, is the fishermen's quarter, full of shops, restaurants, bars, and a lively nightlife.The Marina district to the west of it is the business district, with more shops, restaurants, and bars.

Ibiza's main street, Paseo Vara de Rey (named after an ibicenco hero of the Spanish-American War), is on the western reaches of this district, and still farther west stretch the newer zones of the city, brought about by the boom in tourism. Dalt Vila is picturesque and compact, an oasis of calm far removed from the hubbub of the rest of the island.

It's crowned by an ancient cathedral and enclosed by 16th-century walls that have been declared a national monument. Enter by the main gateway, the Portal de las Tablas, flanked by Roman statues, and climb the winding cobblestone streets to the cathedral of Ibiza and Formentera, the Catedra de Santa Maria de Las Nieves (St. Mary of the Snows). Built during the 13th century and extensively revamped early in the 18th century, the church is rather plain and austere inside and out, but the panoramic view from the terrace is the best in town, 300 feet over the Mediterranean.

Also in Plaza de la Catedral is the Museo Arqueologico, which contains items unearthed on Ibiza and Formentera and is one of the most important museums of Punic (Carthaginian) artifacts in Spain and in the world. All exhibit identification and information is in Spanish only. The museum is open daily; admission charge . Another Dalt Vila museum - the Museo de Arte Contemponineo displays contemporary Spanish paintings and sculpture.

Windmill Hill Ibiza

Visitors whose appetite for - artifacts has not been sated should head down to a part of the lower town west of Dalt Vila to the Punic necropolis of Puig des Motins (Windmill Hill). Because the Carthaginians considered the soil of Ibiza to be especially good for burial purposes, they buried their dead from other colonies here as well, and this necropolis was the largest of several on the island. More than 4,000 tombs were carved into the hillside, and although the graves were pillaged over the centuries, scientific excavations yielded enough to stock the Museo Monogrrifico del Puig des Molins, at the bottom of the hill. The museum is open daily, and the admission charge includes a visit to the necropolis.

Formentera and things to do

Formentera The sea is visible from every point on Formentera, which is nearly flat as a pancake except for a lump the 630-foothigh La Mola mountain at its eastern extremity. Made up of two islets joined by an isthmus, the island measures only about 12 miles from end to end. Ferries arrive at La Sabina, the island harbor, which is on the north coast between two lagoons, Estang de Peix and Estang Pudent (which translate as fish lagoon and stinky lagoon, respectively). The cluster of sparkling white house’s down the road from the port is San Francisco Javier, the capital, home to less than half the island's population (and also called, in ibicenc, Sant Francesc Xavier).

At the center of town is the 18th century Iglesia de San Francisco. The nextlargest village is San Fernando, 2 km to the east. The rest of the island consists of pine forests and salt flats, generously fringed with beaches - Platja de Mitjorn, on the southern coast and 3 miles long, is long enough to escape being crowded.

Others include Platja d'Es Pujols, north of San Fernando, which attracts a certain amount of business from package tours; Platja de Ses IIletas and Platja de Llevant, on either side of the Trocadors peninsula, which stretches north from La Sabina; and Cala Sahona, on the western side of the island, still reasonably remote.

The Carthaginians are known to have worked the salt pans, but they left no trace of settlement on the island. The Romans left it its name, a corruption of the Latin Frumentaria – from frumentum, or wheat since Formentera served as a granary for the Roman camp on Ibiza.

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Places to visit in Majorca and Minorca

The Joan Miro Foundation Majorca

Near the fashionable town of Andraitx, 3 miles (5 km) west of Palma, is this cultural complex built on the site of the famed artist's former studio. Before Miro's death in 1983, he and his wife, Pilar, created a foundation to ensure that his workplace would continue to be used. The foundation mounts changing exhibits from its permanent collection of 5,000 works, including paintings, sculpture, collages, etchings, and lithographs. Some of the artist's correspondence, photographs, and personal possessions are also displayed.

The Valldemosa Carthusian Monastery Majorca

Set in the mountains 11 miles (18 km) north of Palma, this monastery was founded during the 14th century, although the present buildings are from the 17th and 18th centuries. After the Carthusian monks were expelled during a period of anti-clericalism in the 18th century, its cells were rented out to guests, including Frederic Chopin and George Sand, who spent the winter of 1838-39 here (two cells have been converted into small museums of Chopin and Sand memorabilia).

The Claustro de Santa Maria (Cloister of St. Mary) offers beautiful views, and the neoclassical church is decorated with frescoes by Francisco Goya's brother-in-law, an intricately carved choir stall, and rich tapestries. It also features a lovely, well tended garden area and a preserved 18th-century pharmacy. Closed Sundays. Admission charge.

Deia Majorca Spain

This lovely old village (Deya in Spanish) enjoys an enchanting setting perched loftlike over the sea and backed by evergreen mountains 17 miles (27 km) northwest of Palma. Its natural beauty lured a number of talented people who made it an artists' and writers' colony the poet Robert Graves, who lived here until his death in 1985, was probably its most famous long-term resident. He is now buried in the local cemetery, which also has a splendid view of the area. There is also a small archaeology museum with Neolithic artifacts.

Soller Majorca

Almond, lemon, and orange groves surround this town, the largest on the western side of the island, 19 miles (30 km) north of Palma. Like many a settlement on Majorca, the threat of attack from the sea caused it to grow up a few miles inland from its port, Port de Soller, which sits 3 miles (5 km) from the valley on a round, sheltered, beach-lined bay and has become a thriving resort center.

Soller itself has little to see except for San Bartolome, a turn-of-the-century modernista church designed by a pupil of Gaudi, that is among the most elaborate on the island. Most visitors arrive aboard the turn of the century narrow-gauge railroad train from Palma, a wonderfully scenic ride (see Train, above), then continue via an extension down to the port for the beach or a bite to eat.

Cape Formentor

The road from Puerto de Pollensa to Cabo de Formentor follows the spine of the Sierra de Tramuntana out to sea and provides stunning vistas, particularly at the Mirador d'Es Colomer and at the Formentor lighthouse (not open to the public) at the end of the peninsula.

The Art Caves Majorca

These extensive caverns are perhaps the most beautiful of the many on the island, yet they are the least visited. They were first explored thoroughly during the 19th century and are said to have inspired Jules Verne to write Journey to the Center of the Earth but were known as long ago as the 13th century, when they served as a hiding place for Moors after the Reconquest. Open daily. Admission charge. On the east coast of the island at Cabo Vermeil, 6 miles (10 km) east of Arta.

The Dragons Caves Majorca

The largest of Majorca's caves are just over a mile long and contain a subterranean lake in addition to four chambers full of fanciful formations in limestone. Visits are guided (English language tours are possible) and include a concert by musicians in a boat at the end of the tour. Be warned: The crowds are ridiculous during the summer months. Open daily. Admission charge. On the east coast of Majorca, just south of Porto Cristo.

Minorca car hire

Minorca car hire is available directly from the airport, but if you want to explore the island by hire car, pre-book your car rentals for the best deals, offers and promotions available online.
Minorca The second largest of the Balearic Islands is the eastern-most of the group and also the island farthest from the Spanish mainland. Minorca, which measures about 30 miles from east to west and between 6 and 12 miles north to south, is relatively flat hilly plateau with its highest point, Monte Toro, rising just over 1,000 feet in the island's center.

The absence of a mountain range such as the one on Majorca means that Minorca is without some of the larger island's spectacular scenery. Yet its outline is rugged and irregular, resulting in roughly 125 miles of coastline blessed with countless small coves and beautiful beaches. More and more tourists are beginning to appreciate Minorca's pleasures, but they haven't inundated the island yet, and agriculture and dairy products remain major industries, along with the making of shoes and costume jewelry.

Minorca history

Traces of past cultures have all but been destroyed on the island, except for the massive megalithic constructions remaining from prehistoric times. Minorca is dotted with hundreds of these stone monuments cylindrical talayots, Tshaped taulas, and shipshape navetas which are remnants of a so-called talayotic Bronze Age culture that may have begun about 2000 Be and was at its height around 1000 Be.

Scholars do not yet fully understand the origins of the civilization that raised these monuments (though it's thought that they established settlements throughout the Mediterranean and even as far north as Britain), nor have they been able to fathom the structures' exact functions. Talayots may have been watchtowers or the houses of chieftains (or the roofs or foundations of such structures).

Taulas, the form most peculiar to Minorca, may have served a religious purpose. Navetas, similar to the conical mounds of the talayots but oblong and containing chambers (like the upside-down hull of a ship, hence the name), are thought to have been communal graves. These monuments are found on both government and private land; although some of the sites are easily accessible from the road, others are not.

Mahon Minorca

The largest city on Minorca is its capital, Mao (pronounced Mahoh), a port at the eastern end of the island; its menorquin name is commonly used interchangeably with its Spanish form, Mahon (Mahohn). This is the town that gave the world mayonnaise (from salsa mahonesa ), a favorite sometimes garlicky local sauce. The second largest city and former capital, Ciutadella (Ciudadela in Spanish; population 16,000), is at the island's western extreme. The two cities are starkly different.

Mao shows the influence of eight decades of 18th century British rule in its architecture (which sports details such as sash windows and Georgian doors) and caters to predominantly English-speaking visitors. The architecture of Outadella, where Germans fill the bungalows of the tourist villages is classically Spanish. Other towns, such as Alayor, Mercadal, and Ferrerias are in the interior, along the main road that crosses the island from east to west. Fornells, at one time a fishing village and now a resort town, is on the north coast on a deeply indented bay.

Minorca Attractions

Minorca's beaches are what most visitors come to explore. All are posted with flags due to capricious currents red signals danger, yellow means caution, and green signifies safety. Son Bou and Santo Tomas, in the center of the southern shore, are the two longest beaches on the island. Cala Santa Galdana, to the west of these, is a beach in a sheltered cove with very safe and shallow waters, and Cala Blanca, a few miles soth of Ciutadella, is a tiny beach surrounded by rocky cliffs. Cala del Pilar, a deserted beach on the north side of the island, is known mainly to locals.

To reach it, turn off the main Mao-Ciutadella road about 3 miles (5 km) past Ferrerias, near the Alputzer farm. Cala Pregonda, east of Cala del Pilar, is also deserted but easier to reach. From Mercadal, take the road northwest toward Ferragut Nou, then walk the last hundred yards to the sea. Es Grao, one of the beaches closest to Mao, is very shallow, perfect for children. Drive due north from the city to the sea.

Best places to visit in Minorca

Throughout most of its history, the capital of modern Minorca was second in importance to Ciutadella. That changed during the 18th century with the arrival of the British, who found Mao's long, narrow, deep harbor and port facilities preferable to those at the other end of the island. Mao, set on a high cliff at the end of the harbor, does not have the wide avenues, majestic buildings, and treelined streets of other Spanish capitals, resembling an overgrown fishing village instead.

Among the sights is the 18th century Baroque Esgtesia de Santa Maria (St. Mary's Church), which houses an extraordinary early 19th-century organ that is one of the largest in the world and is considered to be one of the finest (it's the raison d'etre of the city's annual summer music festival). Facing the church is the 17th century Ajuntament (Town Hall), built by the island's British governor. Not far away, the marketplace built into the arcaded cloister of a former Carmelite convent is worth a morning visit; otherwise, the town is best enjoyed by wandering through its narrow streets.

At night, the port, reached by a steep, winding road called Abundancia, becomes the focus of most nightlife, with dozens of bars and restaurants in the area of the Estacion Maritima and several excellent restaurants lining the harbor toward Villacarlos. The British founded this village, southeast of Mao near the entrance to the harbor, to house the garrison of a nearby fort. Once called Georgetown, it remains even more British in atmosphere than the capital itself.

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Things to do in the Balearic Islands

The Balearic Islands, set in the Mediterranean Sea south-east of Barcelona and east of Valencia, have been invaded repeatedly over the centuries, as the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Vandals, Moors, French, English, and Spanish successively became the dominant Mediterranean power.

These days, however, the only invaders are tourists. While the Balearics (las Islas Baleares to the Spanish) are relatively undiscovered by Americans visiting the Continent, as far as the Europeans and particularly the British and the Germans are concerned, they are Europe's most popular tourist destination.

Four main islands, aligned in two pairs - Majorca and its smaller neighbor Minorca, plus Ibiza and its little sidekick Formentera - make up the Balearic Archipelago, which also includes several smaller islets. Together, they constitute Spain's Baleares province, with Palma de Mallorca, or Majorca, the provincial capital.

Each island has had its own history, although there are some common threads. Evidence that the archipelago was the home of an advanced megalithic civilization abounds on Majorca and Minorca, in the form of stone monuments whose exact origins and purpose remain a mystery to scholars. Later, the islanders became mercenaries in the armies of Rome and Carthage (the name Baleares comes from the Greek balein, referring to the islanders' consummate skill with the sling, which they could wield against enemies with deadly accuracy from hundreds of feet away). Moorish incursions began in the 8th century, and by 902 the Moors were securely installed. They remained so, under succeeding dynasties, until James I of Aragon conquered the islands for the Christians, beginning in 1229.

Car hire in Majorca

Modern-day visitors to Majorca prefer to pre-book car hire at Palma de Majorca Airport, and make the most of this beautiful island at their own pace. Majorca Airport car hire is cheap and reliable, and easy drop offs and pickups are guaranteed.

About a half century later, an independent kingdom of Majorca was created (including Montpellier and Roussillon in France as well as the Balearics), which endured until the mid14th century. Thanks to the islands' position along the main seagoing trading route between northern Italy and northern Europe, these were prosperous times, a virtual Balearic golden age, which continued even after the islands reverted to the kingdom of Aragon in 1343. But early in the 16th century, because of the pirates off their shores, the Balearics were prohibited by the newly united crown of Aragon and Castile from trading with the Americas, a ban that cut them off from Spain's golden age and consigned them to a backwater of history.

The islands are closely tied culturally to the region of Catalonia. Two languages are spoken: Castilian Spanish and the Balearic dialects of Catalan, which varies slightly from island to island (mallorquin on Majorca, menorquin on Minorca, and ibicenc on Ibiza and Formentera). Thus the confusion of many island place names, spelled one way in Spanish and another in the local language; some signs, for example, may bear the Catalan for street, avenue, square, and beach (carrer, avinguda, plaqa, and platja), while others will use the Spanish (calle, avenid, plaza, playa).

Majorca things to see

Each island has a distinct personality. Majorca (its name in Spanish and mallorquin, Mallorca, means the larger and dates back to the Romans) is the best known and the most developed in terms of the tourist trade. On this small island (about 62 miles from east to west and 47 miles from north to south) is the very Balearic city of Palma, complete with a massive cathedral, Es Seo (La Seo in Castilian), and a medieval Casco Viejo (Old Quarter) commonly referred to as La Ciutat (the City) by locals. On either side of the capital city are beaches endowed with blocks of high-rise hotels, tourist-oriented restaurants, and late night discos that stretch for miles, much like areas of the Costa del Sol.

In the countryside, only a 10-minute drive from the center of Palma, almond and olive groves blanket the landscape, peasants still plow their fields with oxen, and black clad women can be seen laboring during harvest time. In one port, the world's most luxurious yachts lie at anchor, while in the next, fishermen drag their boats onto the beach after working through the night.

Majorca and Chopin

Majorca has been a magnet for writers, painters, and musicians for more than a century. The trend may have begun in the 1830s when the consumptive Polish composer Frederic Chopin (1810-1849) and his mistress, the French author who used the pseudonym George Sand (1804-1876), shivered through an unusually cold winter here in La Cartuja de Valldemosa (Valldemosa Carthusian Monastery). Despite his ill health, here Chopin was inspired to write some of his finest work.

His lover wrote A Winter in Majorca, a not exactly flattering account of island life (at that time, Majorcan society had not taken kindly to this illicit couple) that was nevertheless enthusiastic about the landscape. It was later translated into English by a 20th-century visitor, the poet and writer Robert Graves (1895-1985). The author of 1, Claudius and The White Goddess, Graves settled in the town of Deia and presided over a virtual artists' and writers' colony. The steady stream of books the group generated spread the word of the island's beauty, creating the mass tourism industry that boomed in the 1960s.

Menorca things to do

Minorca (Menorca in Spanish and menorquin, meaning the smaller) is far less developed than either Ibiza or Majorca. Only in the past few years has Minorca entered the tourism competition in earnest, so it still has plenty of undisturbed countryside and isolated beaches. The island is easy to explore no part of it is more than an hour's drive away from another. Nightlife here is tame by Spanish standards, with only a handful of discos pulsating until dawn. Ancient megaliths and burial grounds provide the major distraction from a very lazy beach existence.

The history of the Balearic Islands

The history of Ibiza (pronounced Eebeetha) is not as much in evidence as that of Majorca, with its castles and cathedrals, or Minorca, where cows graze around ancient ruins. The Carthaginians established a colony here during the 7th century BC to exploit the island's salt beds, and the remains of 500 years of this Punic culture are preserved in museum displays and carved in the hillsides as tombs Iblza became a haven for writers and artists and a refuge for the counterculture in the 1950s and 1960s; today it serves as a playground for the jet set. Bob Dylan, Bruce Springsteen, U2, and Julio Iglesias have all made regular appearances on this small island; a number of performers have cut albums at Ibiza's tucked away recording studios, and some even maintain sprawling hidden villas here.

Things to do in Ibiza

The town of Ibiza, also known as Eivissa, tumbles down from a cathedral and rampart that overlook the protected harbor. Narrow streets and stairs wind between picture perfect whitewashed houses, with views of the more modern city and the bay around every corner. Tiny boutiques hawk gaily colored scarves, T-shirts, and postcards, as well as trendy art. Outside of town, there are hundreds of private coves for swimming some with fine white sand, others with tiny, water smoothed pebbles rather than mile-long beaches. High-rise hotels are limited, and the tourist enclaves blend with the island's natural lines.

Nightlife begins late, with live entertainment and dancing that slows down only with the dawn. During the winter months, fewer than a dozen of the island's scores of hotels remain open, and the discos pack up the speakers and lights.

Ibiza Car Hire

Car hire in Ibiza can be pre-booked and collected easily from the airport terminal when you arrive. You can save plenty of money by booking car hire in Ibiza before you travel, and every major car hire company is represented at Ibiza Airport, including Hertz, Helle Hollis and Avis, plus a host of local car rentals companies.

Formentera is little more than a spit of sand that lies four miles across a strait from Ibiza. This undeveloped island is a tranquil retreat, where what visitors see is what they get. Don't expect any major changes in scenery, though the cliffs at the far end of the island are spectacular. The point here is to relax and lie in the sun. In Formentera, there aren't many distractions from those pursuits.

Keep in mind when planning visits that in the Balearics, as in other parts of Spain, churches, museums, historic sites, and other places of touristic interest usually open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM, and then again from around 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 PM; schedules may change with the seasons. Some museums are open mornings only, and weekend hours are often shorter than on weekdays. Closing days tend to be Sundays or Mondays.

Majorca information

Almost half of Majorca’s residents live in Palma de Mallorca, a city that has miles of sandy beaches stretching to the east. Those from Ca'n Pastilla to El Arenal, lined by high-rise hotels, restaurants, and discos, are known collectively as the Platja de Palma (Playa de Palma in Spanish). To the west, newer tourist developments their highrise hotels clustered rather than strung along the seahave been created on smaller beaches at Cala Mayor, Palma Nova, Illetas, Magaluf, and, beyond the Badia de Palma, Paguera.

At the northern tip of the island is the town of Pollenca, which offers excellent swimming and boating. The rugged Cabo de Formentor (Cape Formentor), at the end of the peninsula curving up around Badia de Pollenca (Pollenca Bay), offers spectacular scenery, especially to those who make it to the lighthouse at the end of the road. Just south of the bay is Alcudia, where a Roman city once stood (and a ruined Roman theater and walls still stand), and, a mile or so south of the village, Badia d'Alcudia, lined by a - beach that is much less developed than the Platja de Palma.

Majorca's mountainous western coast is dotted with small villages that have become retreats for those seeking to leave the crowds behind. Soller is the largest town in this part of the island, and it, along with Porto de Soller, a few miles away on the coast, receives its share of tourists via the train that connects the beach with Palma. A bit to the south is Deia (Deya in Spanish), a medieval-looking town built on a small mound between the sea and towering mountains. Still farther south, the villages of Banyalbufar and Estellenchs hug mountainsides that drop steeply to the sea. Valldemosa, where Chopin and George Sand stayed, lies at one of the few passes through the spine of mountains that separate Palma from the coast.

Things to do in Palma de Mallorca

The bulk of Majorca lies to the east of Palma. Most visitors make their way in this direction to visit the Cuevas del Drac (Dragon's Caves) and the Cuevas de Els Hams (Hams Caves) in the vicinity of the village of Porto Cristo on the island's eastern coast. They also stop in the city of Manacor, in the interior, 30 miles (49 km) due east of Palma, where the island's pearl industry is based. Compared with the coasts, the interior of Majorca is a step back in time. Here, the life of the islanders still revolves around farming, shop keeping, and early morning markets, rather than around the housing, feeding, and entertaining of tourists. Inca, 17.5 miles (28 km) northeast of Palma on the way to Pollenca and Alcudia, is probably the most interesting interior town. A leather-working center, it also has a large flea market, in full bustle every Thursday morning.

The real beauty of Majorca's countryside is enjoyed by driving across the fields, through the mountains, along the coastline. Limit excursions to trips easily completed in a day, since detours to visit unexpected sights constantly crop up. On one day, loop from Palma to Valldemosa, then along the coast to Banyalbufar, Estellenchs, San Telmo, Porto D'Andraitx, Paguera, Magaluf, and back to the city. On another day, go north to Pollenca, then take the narrow road to the tip of Cabo de Formentor. A visit to a pearl factory in Manacor and to one of the massive caves farther east is another day trip. Or head away from the crowds down to Arenal de la Rapita, a totally undeveloped beach near the southeast corner of the island.

About Palma de Mallorca

The city's name comes from Palmaria, which is what the Romans called it after they conquered Majorca in the 2nd century BC. Palma's most prominent reminder of the Moorish occupation is the Palacio de la Almudaina (Plaza de la Almudaina) the palace-fortress of the island's rulers of that time, later converted into a royal palace for the Spanish kings of Majorca and now used, in part, to house the Museo del Patrimonio Nacional (National Heritage Museum).

Palma de Mallorca Cathedral

Sa Seo, which stands right in front of the Almudaina on the plaza, is a golden stone Gothic structure and one of Spain's largest cathedrals (it also has Europe's largest rose window, more than 40 feet across). It was begun in 1230, finished in 1601, and underwent a restoration in the early 20th century overseen by Antoni Gaudi, the famed Catalan architect, who among other things designed a modernista (Catalan Art Nouveau) canopy now over the main altar. The cathedral's Sala Capitular (chapter house) contains a small museum, which is closed Saturday afternoons and Sundays; admission charge. The cathedral has the same hours and is also open during services.

Sa Seo stands at the western edge of the oldest part of the city, which is to the east of the wide, tree shaded promenade known as El Borne (or Paseo del Borne). The Banos Arabes (Arab Baths), on Carrer Serra, remain essentially as they were under the caliphs. They're open daily and charge admission. Still in La Ciutat (the Old Town), in the Portella quarter behind the cathedral, is the Museo de Mallorca, housed in an old mansion at 5 Carrer de la Portella; it illustrates island history through a collection of archaeological artifacts, documents, paintings, and sculpture.

Working your way north, you'll also see the 17th-century Casa Oleza (33 Carrer Morey)known for its inner court yard and the 16th-century Gothic and Renaissance Casa Palmer (17 Carrer del Sol; these interiors are not open to the public) before reaching Palma's second-most-renowned church, the Esglesia de Sant Francese or Iglesia de San Francisco, on the plaza with the same name. Built in the 13th and 14th centuries, it was given a Baroque facade in the 17th century but retains its beautiful Gothic cloister. Ramon Uull is buried here.

Proceed west from Esglesia de San Francisco to reach the Esglesia de Santa Eulalia, a fine example of Majorcan Gothic built from the 13th to the 15th centuries; behind it (at 2 Carrer Zavella) is the 18th century Casa Vivot, another mansion with a notable courtyard, but whose interior is not open to the public. Still farther west, but still in the Ciutat on the east side of El Borne, is Palma's 17th century Ajuntament (Town Hall), standing in a beautiful old square, Plaza Cort (not open to the general public).

The Lonja Palma de Mallorca

The Lonja, on the seafront west of EI Borne, is one of Palma's star attractions. Built during the 15th century as a stock exchange and commercial building for the city's busy trading merchants, it now serves as an exhibition space for art shows (and is thus open irregularly). Also on the west side of El Borne is the Casa de los Marqueses de Sollerich (House of the Marquises of Sollerich; 10 Carrer San Cayetano), an 18th century mansion with perhaps the finest courtyard in town, but also not open to the public.

The attractions beyond the center, on the west side of Palma, should not be missed. One of them, the Castell de Bellver, an unusual round castle built during the 14th century and beautifully preserved, boasts perhaps the best view of Palma and the surrounding area. The adjoining Torre de Homenaje (Tower of Homage), looking like a stone rocket ready for blast off, housed the dungeons.

The castle and tower are open daily and charge admission. The other main attraction in town, the Poble Espanyol, or Pueblo Espanol (Spanish Village), located across from the Palau de Congresos (Convention Center) offers a chance to see all of Spain at a glance. Much like its counterpart in Barcelona, this model village contains reproductions of houses and famous buildings from all parts of Spain. It also offers a chance to see Spanish artisans at work and shops where their handiwork can be purchased.

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Extremadura and things to do in Spain

Far to the west of Madrid, close to the Portuguese border, lies a remote and often rugged region that played a leading role in one of the most important chapters of Spanish history. During the 15th and 16th centuries, this vast, landlocked area exported its sons to the farthest reaches of the earth to chart unfamiliar and hazardous oceans and explore the Americas. Extremadura was the cradle of the conquistadores, men such as Francisco Pizarro, an uneducated swineherd who set off to conquer Peru for the Spanish and to plunder the gold of the Inca.

Pizarro came from Trujillo, today one of the jewels of Extremadura, a small town rich in fine 16th-century palaces built with gold from the Americas. Also from Trujillo was Francisco de Orellana, the first European to explore the Amazon, while Vasco Nunez de Balboa, who made the first European discovery of the Pacific Ocean, and Hernando de Soto, who colonized Florida for the Spaniards, both hailed from the southern Extremaduran town of Jerez de los Caballeros. Pedro de Valdivia, who conquered presentday Chile, was born and brought up in Villanueva de la Serena.

Today, the names of Extremadura's towns and cities echo all over Latin America. There are Trujillos in Peru, Honduras, and Venezuela. Medellin, the name of the small Extremaduran citadel that produced Hernan Cortes, the European discoverer of Mexico, can be found in Mexico, in Argentina and, most notoriously, in Colombia. Numerous other places in the Western Hemisphere, including the Caribbean island of Guadeloupe, take their name from the mountain Monasterio de Guadalupe, the monastery where Queen Isabella of Spain drew up a contract with Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon in Spanish) for his voyage of discovery to America and in which the first Native Americans brought back as prisoners were baptized by their conquerors.

The modern-day sons of Extremadura continue to travel far from home, although now they are more likely to go to the big cities of Spain or the more industrially advanced north of Europe than to cross the Atlantic. This wild corner of the country can still be harsh and primitive, and emigration is an attractive option for young people who aren't drawn to the rustic life.

For the visitor, however, it is precisely this remoteness that gives the region its appeal. Extremadura is an area of immense natural beauty, with vast expanses of rolling countryside broken only occasionally by little whitewashed pueblos (villages) peopled by shepherds and their families. In the north, the fertile plains of wheat, cotton, and tobacco give way to soft hills and tumbling olive groves, then to the snow-capped peaks of the Gredos and Gata mountain ranges. Farther south, the rich red soil is thickly wooded with pungent eucalyptus trees and holm and cork oaks. In spring and early summer, before the heat has burned the landscape brown, carpets of wildflowers stretch for miles.

The region is also rich in architecture and history. The towns, especially Caceres, Trujillo, and Guadalupe, contain palaces and fine churches - fantastic examples of 16th century one upman ship built by the Spanish nouveaux riches with gold brought back in galleons from their newly discovered territories. Merida has a museum housing the finest collection of Roman finds in the whole of Spainfittingly, since Extremadura was one of the chief colonies of the Romans' vast province of Lusitania, and Merida, founded during the 1st century BC, was Lusitania's capital. The Visigoths, who came later, also left an important heritage, particularly in finely tooled stonework and jewelry. Again, Merida has some of the best examples of this early Christian civilization.

Extremadura and the Moors

The Moors arrived during the 8th century and stayed for 500 years, building magnificent castlefortresses and other structures in their decorative architectural style. Extremadura was next ruled by several orders of knights, who took it upon themselves to chase out the Moors and to protect Christian pilgrims on the long and arduous journey north to the sacred shrine of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. They controlled vast areas of land, given to them by grateful Spanish nobles in payment for their services. Alcantara, Monfragiie, Merida, and Caceres are still steeped in the history of these crusading orders, which wielded immense political and financial power in the late Middle Ages.

During the 19th century, Napoleon tried to make Extremadura a French province, and the region was the site of fierce fighting until the Spanish, assisted by the British, beat the French back over the Pyrenees.Today Extremadura is one of Spain's main cattle raising areas; the black bulls seen throughout the countryside may end up in the bullring or in one of the regional dishes. The local fare is good and hearty, with lots of game and meat dishes. The beef, lamb, and pork are all good, and the strong, deep pink ham is superb. Fish such as trout and tench appear on most menus. Another favorite meal is braised partridge. The region produces some good wines; particularly noteworthy are the strong rose from Caiiamero and the justly renowned, full-bodied red named for the Marquis of Caceres.

The route outlined below enters the northeast corner of Extremadura, turning off the main NV highway from Madrid just short of the small town of Navalmoral de la Mata and running down through the foothills of the Sierra de Altamira Mountains to the famous sanctuary town of Guadalupe. From there, it continues west to Trujillo, southwest to Merida, and west again to Badajoz, a town dominated by the imposing Moorish castle where generations of Muslim kings made their base.

The itinerary then proceeds north to Caceres, richly evocative of Spain's golden age, and on up to Plasencia, a charming town and a good base for trips into the picturesque valleys of the far north of Extremadura. Among these, a visit to the lovely wooded Monasterio de Yuste, the monastery where the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V spent his last days, is' particularly recommended. The total length of the route is between 422 and 453 miles (675/725 km), depending on side excursIons.

Extremadura and Madrid car hire

The best way to explore Extremadura is to hire a car from Madrid Barajas Airport. Airport car hire in Madrid can be pre-booked so you avoid delays and save money when you arrive.The roads in Extremadura are generally good (provided you stick to those recommended in the itinerary), except in the remote Las Hurdes area, which can be explored as an optional detour. Distances are often greater than they seem on a map, however, and gas stations can be few and far between, so allow plenty of time and keep the tank full. Don't rely on renting a car locally, because tourism is still new here and there are few car rental offices.

When planning your itinerary, bear in mind that opening hours for churches, museums, and other places of touristic interest usually run from 9 orl0 AM to 1 or 2 PM and then again from 4 or 5 to 6 or 7 PM; schedules may also vary with the season. Weekend hours are generally shorter than on weekdays, and closing days tend to be Sundays or Mondays.

Extremadura paradors

Extremadura is particularly rich in paradors. Staying in them is the best way to get a real taste of the region, but be sure to book well in advance; they tend to fill up quickly, even outside the high season. The north of Extremadura is likely to prove more captivating than the south, so it's a good idea to allocate more time for Trujillo, Caceres, and Guadalupe when planning. Unless otherwise noted, most restaurants in Extremadura are open for both lunch and dinner.

Extremadura Monastery

The conquistadores adopted the shrine as their own and heaped treasures on it from the Americas, making it one of the most elaborate and richly decorated monasteries in Spain. Conquered Inca leaders were brought here to be baptized. Freed Christian slaves left their chains here in votive thanks. The monastery was abandoned in the 19th century, then restored and taken over by Franciscan friars in 1908. For the Spanish, it is still one of the most important places of pilgrimage in Christendom, as well as a symbol of hispanidad, the cultural and linguistic link between Spain and Spanish America.

A guided tour takes visitors around the complex, including the manuscript room, which houses giant illuminated books of hours, and the sacristy, which has eight paintings by Extremadura's most famous artist, the painter Francisco de Zurban: ln (1598-1664). The 14th-century church, which was a later addition, features an altarpiece with works by Carducci, Giraldo de Merlo, and Jorge Manuel Theodopoulos, son of EI Greco.

One of the main features of the monastery is the 15th-century Mudejar cloister, unmistakably Moorish in influence and faced with glazed colored tiles (there is a smaller, Gothic cloister in the monastery as well). The tour ends with a visit to the Camaren de la Virgen, where the statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe reposes on a richly worked altar, a casket to one side stuffed full of peseta notes, gifts from grateful or hopeful pilgrims.

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Jaen and Andalusia things to do

The capital of the province of Jaen sits at the confluence of Rio Guadalquivir and Rio Guadalbullon. The site was called Auringis by the Romans and became famous for its silver mines and olives. The Moors called it Geen, way of the caravans, because it lay on the main route between Andalusia and Castile. The Moors were defeated in 1246, but they left behind the chief reason for a visit to Jaenthe 13thcentury Castillo de Santa Catalina, a spectacular hilltop fortress whose crumbling ruins have been reconstructed and converted into a government parador.

Located 2 miles (3 km) from the center of town, the castle sits at the end of a steep, winding road that provides magnificent views of the entire area. In addition to the parador (see Best en Route), visit the former castIe parade ground, ringed by defensive towers, and peek into the keep and the Capilla de Santa Catalina (St. Catherine Chapel). Then walk to the far end of the hill to reach a thrilling lookout spot over the town.

From this viewpoint, the 16th-century Renaissance cathedral of Jaen (Plaza de Santa Maria) looks imposing but a bit odd, its massive facade out of proportion with the surrounding buildings. Some Ribera paintings and a bronze candelabrum with 15 arms are,on display in the Museo de la Catedral, which is open weekends only and charges admission (Plaza de Santa Maria).

Jaen has a Museo Provincial, which displays a mixture of fine arts, folk art, and archaeological finds. It's closed weekend afternoons and does not charge admission. The town also has several churches of note, particularly the 16th-century Capilla de San Andres, thought to have been built originally as a synagogue. Visitors must call ahead to be let in. For additional information, contact the Oficina de Turismo; open weekdays from 8:30 AM to 2:30 PM.

Ubeda car hire

If you are planning to visit the historic city of Ubeda, hire a car from Malaga Airport before you travel. Malaga Airport car hire can be pre-booked online before you travel, so make the most of cheap car rentals at the airport, and book early to avoid delays and disappointment when you arrive in Malaga.

Even more impressive than Baeza is historic Ubeda, known as the Florence of Andalusia. Its Plaza Vazquez de Molina is the most architecturally harmonious square in Andalusia, an oasis from another time lined with Renaissance monuments from 16th-century Spain. To reach the square, follow the Conjunto Monumental signs into the town center. Along the way, you'll pass the bustling Plaza de Andalucia, with a graceful clock tower, outdoor tables for relaxing, and a bullet-ridden statue of a Francoist generalin short, everything a small Andalusian town square should have.

Several noteworthy buildings front the shaded Plaza Vazquez de Molina. The 16th-century Renaissance Casa de las Cadenas (House of the Chains) serves as the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall); its interior patio of slender arches was the work of architect Andres de Vandelvira, who designed most of old Ubeda. The square's architectural highlight is the Iglesia de San Salvador (Church of the Holy Savior), whose massive golden facade and sumptuous interior make it one of the best examples of Spanish Renaissance architecture.

Built in the early 16th century as the family chapel and mausoleum for Francisco de los Cobos, secretary of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, it is still privately owned, but a live-in guide shows visitors the ornate altarpiece crowned by a sculpture of the Transfiguration and an enormous wrought-iron grille. It's normally open daily (as long as the caretaker is in); admission charge.

Before the Plaza Vazquez de Molina was completed, a nearby square, the Plaza Primero de Mayo, was the heart of Ubeda; an outdoor market, sports events, andwhile the Inquisition reignedburnings at the stake took place here. On one corner today is the old Ayuntamiento (City Hall), featuring a double row of elegant Gothic arches. Similar touches are found in the Iglesia de San Pablo (St. Peter's Church) on the plaza's opposite side, parts of which date from around 1400.

Another Ubeda sight, the (former) Hospital de Santiago (St. James Hospital), a Vandelvira masterpiece, sits on Carrera del Obispo Cobos, far from the historic center.This imposing 16th century edifice has been called the Escorial of Andalusia. Note the monumental staircase leading upstairs from the inner courtyard and the wood carvings in the chapel. It's open daily; no admission charge.

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Gibraltar and the Costa del Sol car hire

The self-governing British colony of Gibraltar (whose name derives from the Arabic Jabalal Tarik) is only three miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide, with approximately 30,000 inhabitants, settled mainly in Gibraltar Town, on the Rock's west side. Car hire can be picked up directly from Gibraltar Airport and pre-booked before you travel.

Tiny as it is, the colony is an immense source of bitterness among the Spanish, who consider themselves its rightful owners; their attempts to reclaim it led to the closing of the frontier between Spain and Gibraltar in 1969.

Local residents have as stubbornly voted time after time to remain British. For years, the Rock (called El Peñon in Spanish) was accessible only by air or sea from the United Kingdom or North Africa. But the steel mesh gates swung open again in February 1985, and the border is now open round the clock. Visitors need only a passport, not a visa, to cross.

Ronda inland Andalusia

Ronda´s fame rests chiefly on EI Tajo, a 360-foot gorge cut by the Rio Guadalevin (Guadalevin River) that literally splits the town in two. Incredible cliff-hanging houses perch right along the edge of the precipice and look as if they might slide into the abyss at any moment. The five-foot-high iron grilles on the 18th-century Puente Nuevo, one of three bridges that span the gorge, are all that separate visitors from a horrifying drop. The bridge links two towns and two eras.

To the north lies the new town, called El Mercadillo, begun around 1500, after Ronda fell to the Christians. Here, a pedestrian street, the Carrera de Espinel, is lined with scores of shops, becoming a vibrant sea of shoppers and strollers each afternoon. At the head of the street is the Plaza de Taros, Ronda's famous bullring. Although bullfights are held only about once a month from May through October, visitors may inspect Spain's oldest (1785) and most beautiful bullring daily. The country's top bullfighting museum is also located here, in the cradle of modern bullfighting. It's also open daily; admission charge .

Bullfighting in Ronda

The local Romero family developed most of the bullfighting rules and techniques used today, including the introduction of the cape, the killing sword, and the group of assistants to the matador called the cuadrilla. Each September, at the Corrida Goyesca (Goya Bullfight) aficionados pay homage to a 19th-century family member, Pedro Romero, who killed 5,600 bulls during his career and fought until the age of 90. (Goya immortalized the epoch in several sketches and engravings.) End a tour of EI Mercadillo by strolling north from the bullring through the Alameda Gardens (Calle Virgen de la Paz), supposedly paid for with fines levied on anyone using foul language in public. The Old Quarter, known as simply La Ciudad (the City), is a labyrinth of cramped streets and wrought-iron balconies brimming with potted geraniums.

Here are some of Andalusia's finest aristocratic mansions, such as the twin-turreted 16th-century Renaissance Casa de Mondragon. It's open daily; admission charge.A short walk away is the circular Plaza de la Ciudad, the coolest spot in town on a summer day. Fronting it is a 15th-century church, Iglesia de Santa Marfa la Mayor, with a Baroque altar dripping with gilt and a former Muslim mihrab (a niche indicating the direction of Mecca); the church's tower was once a minaret.

On the other side of La Ciudad (near the bridge off Calle del Comandante Alejandro) are more mansions, including the Casa del Rey Mom, which is the restored home of King Badis, a Moorish ruler who drank wine from the jewel-encrusted skulls of his victims (today it's a private home that can't be visited). But farther down the same street visitors can tour the 18th-century Palacio del Marques de Salvatierra, the home of a Spanish marquis complete with Plateresque portal, marble staircase, and Alhambra-style gardens.

The Arab baths Ronda

At the bottom of the same hill, the Banos Arabes (Arab Baths), which were recently renovated, are among the finest in Spain. Located on Calle Marques de Salvatierra, they're closed Monday mornings, and there's no admission charge (no phone). Ronda's Oficina de Turismo is on the Plaza de Espana.

Puerto Banus and Marbella car hire

If you are planning to visit the jet-set resorts of Marbella and Puerto Banus, hire a car online from Malaga Airport, so you can pick it up when you arrive.

The first town on the coast for those who arrive from Ronda is an insignificant resort, San Pedro de Alcantara. Only 2 miles (3 km) east of it, however, is the crown jewel of local tourism, Puerto Jose Banus, a yacht harbor filled with dozens of pleasant places to stop for a drink or a meal. The Port, as it's known to residents, is home to hundreds of craft of all sizes and pedigrees; Rolls Royces and Mercedeses wait quayside, as their impeccably groomed owners join the evening parade of strollers who come to see and be seen on the promenade. Behind the harbor is a modern, quasi-Andalusian fishing village that looks like a giant cardboard cutout and is filled with luxury apartments.

Puerto Banus is technically part of San Pedro, but in spirit it belongs to Marbella, 5 miles (8 km) east, the fabled resort where the beautiful people play or at least used to play, before package tourism began to drive them away. The golf is great at several local courses; so are the tennis, and the windsurfing and other water sports. Even sunbathing is better here than at other spots on the coast, thanks to a superb climate created by a backdrop of coastal mountains. Marbella's Casco Antiguo (Old Town) is a traffic-free oasis of cool, cobbled alleys and half-hidden squares brimming with aromatic flowers and fruit trees.

Orange Square Marbella

Among them, the Plaza de los Naranjos, a truly idyllic spot with orange trees (as its name states), gurgling fountains, and outdoor cafes, is the best. Also on the square are a statue of King Juan Carlos (where one of dictator Francisco Franco once loomed), and the 16th-century Ayuntamiento (Town Hall). The Museo Arqueologico (Archeological Museum) has been closed for renovations but is due to reopen this year in the former Hospital Bazan, on the Calle Viento. Call the Oficina Municipal de Turismo de Marbella for the latest information. There are two other tourist offices in Marbella, at Arco de Marbella (open daily from 10 AM to 2 PM) and at Arco de San Pedro (open daily).

Other sites in the Casco Antiguo are the paris Iglesia de la Encarnación (Church of the Incarnation) and its clock tower on the Plaza Caridad, and the adjacent Calle Gloria, a tiny street that has become a floral showcase. Just across Avenida Ricardo Soriano from the Casco Antiguo lies the Alameda del Parque, a park and promenade with an abundance of vegetation and beautifully tiled benches. Two blocks away is the Mediterranean in all its glory, framed nicely with a promenade, the Paseo Maritimo, and a much smaller, humbler version of Puerto Banus, the Puerto Deportivo. The Oficina de Turismo can supply further information.

Mijas Pueblo Andalusia

Despite being mobbed by busloads of sightseers and armies of souvenir hawkers, Mijas retains a good deal of its original charm. Much of the appeal derives from its spectacular site, welded to the side of a mountain and looking like a stack of sugar cubes against a pine-draped backdrop. From stunning lookout points, a gaze takes in much of the coast and the luminous Mediterranean as far as Morocco's foreboding Rif Mountains.

The road splits at the entrance to Mijas; take the left fork to a wide parking area, then walk up the hill to an early Christian shrine, the Santuario de la Virgen de la Pena (after passing the burro taxi service - corny but fun). Walk toward the center of town to the Plaza de la Constitucion, a shady spot for watching village life.

Malaga city

Malaga has been around since the Phoenicians, who founded a settlement here to trade in salted fish; the hill overlooking the sinewy harbor was later fortified by every power to rule the Mediterranean. The sweet malaga wine has been famous since antiquity and is still served from 500-liter barrels at murky little bodegas. (One of the best is the Antigua Casa Guardia on the Alameda.)

The town's center is dominated by the refreshing Paseo del Parque, which begins at the Plaza de la Marina (where there is underground parking) and extends eastward. This pedestrian promenade and park, lined with palms and banana trees, features fountains, ponds with geese and ducks, and 3,000 species of luxuriant plants bathed in Malaga's intense light. Fronting it are the lemon colored Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) and other government buildings.

Beyond, to the east, are the bullring, the Paseo Maritimo beach promenade along Playa de la Malagueta; and a nostalgia-tinged district of aging buildings known as El Limonar. Better beaches lie to the east at Banos de Carmen and El Palo.

The Alcazaba Malaga

The Alcazaba is an 11th century Moorish fortress-palace, which is perched directly above the park and reached via Calle Alcazabilla. The winding approach passes ruins of a Roman amphitheater, horseshoe arches, and walls draped in bougainvillea and wisteria. Peer down the murky hole where Christian prisoners were kept and, in the Museo Arqueologico (Archaeological Museum) in the main building, peruse the collection of artifacts.

Rearing up to the east is another Moorish fortress, the 14thcentury Castillo de Gibralfaro, built on the site of an ancient Greek lighthouse. It can be reached by a strenuous walk up from the Alcazaba, or by driving a mile east from the Paseo del Parque and then another mile up the hill. Wander at will around the extensive ramparts and towers, which held off many an attack before the city fell to Christian armies in 1487. The fortress is open daily; no admission charge.

Malaga Cathedral

Malaga's Renaissance cathedral (Calle de Molina Larios in the center of town) has only one of the two towers originally planned because, so the story goes, money was diverted to help the American colonials fight their revolution. It's quite dark inside, but look for the Corinthian columns as big as giant redwoods and the 17th-century choir stalls, with 100 seats and dozens of saints carved by the famous artisan Pedro de Mena.

A small museum with religious artifacts is open daily, but has irregular hours; there's an admission charge. From the cathedral's north side, follow the signs to the Museo de Bellas Artes. The eclectic collection 20 rooms full, much of it on permanent loan from the Prado, includes paintings by Murillo and Ribera, as well as a small room devoted to the boyhood works of Malaga's most famous 'on, Pablo Picasso. The museum is closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays (also Saturday afternoons in winter) and charges admIssIon.

Not far from the museum (take Calle Granada toward the Plaza de la Constitución) is the Pasaje de Chinitas, where the malaguena style of flamenco evolved in the mid-19th century. Stroll along this car-free stretch of wrought iron lamps and cobblestones, then stop nearby for tapas; some of the best tapas bars are a short hop from the Pasaje de Chinitas.

Nerja things to do

This resort town lies at the mouth of the Rio Chillar (Chillar River), on a sloping site beneath a wall of jagged coastal mountains. The nicest spot in town is the Baleon de Europa (Balcony of Europe), a palm-shaded promenade jutting dramatically into the Mediterranean. Built in 1885 and named by King Alfonso XIII, it's lined with antique iron lampposts and old cannon, with one side overlooking a pretty beach and some fishing boats.
On the other side are several cafes with loyal customers and outdoor tables, the place to stop for a cup of cafe con leche.

Just around the corner sits the BaroqueMudejar parish church, the Iglesia del Salvador (Church of the Savior), which celebrated its 500th anniversary in 1983. The Oficina Municipal de Turismo de Nerja is at the entrance to the Balcon; it's closed Sundays.

Where to go in Salobrena

On sunny days this stunning village is nearly blinding, thanks to the endless layers of whitewash slapped on by old women wielding buckets and brushes. In the moonlight it becomes a dream town, rising above a broad plain, peacefully suspended between the stars and the sea. Its Castillo Arabe (Subida del Castillo; no phone), one of Andalusia's most imprssive Moorish castles, occupies an impregnable site that must have seemed a gift from Allah. From the castle, flatroofed houses spill down the hillside to the plain. It's possible to drive partway up, but park and walk to the top.

The final stretch climbs along Calle Andres Segovia, named for the renowned guitarist who called Salobrena home. Inside the castle, waner the atlements and catch an eyeful of coastal scenery. It's open daily; admission charge. For more information call the Oficina de Turismo de Salobrena.

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Things to do in Cadiz

Cadiz For the travel weary coming from the sun baked interior, the salty breeze of Cadiz (pronounced Cahdeeth) is a soothing tonic. It's said to be impossible to get lost here, because every street leads to water: Old Cadiz occupies a club-shaped peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic like the prow of an ocean liner, with the city's bay, the Bahia de Cadiz, to its back. A narrow isthmus connects it to the mainland. The setting is dramatic, but Cadiz is a bit rough around the edges, with the kind of seedy charm found in such places as Marseilles and Naples.

A deep, sheltered harbor inspired the Phoenicians to found the city around 1100 Be, and every subsequent Mediterranean power made it an important port. The role of Cadiz in the exploration and colonization of the Americas and above all as a conduit for trade with the new Spanish possessions made it wealthy, and it became a favorite of raiding Barbary pirates and English sea dogs such as Sir Francis Drake. When the Rio (River) Guadalquivir silted up, effectively removing Seville as a competitor, Cadiz became the headquarters of Spain's Americas fleet, only to slide into obscurity when the country lost its overseas colonies.

Today, the port is booming once again

The best way to get an overview of the town is to drive the loop road that circles the perimeter, skirting a lovely seaside promenade. In fact, travelers will probably want to limit driving to this route alone, because while Cadiz is only a bit smaller than Jerez in terms of population, it has none of that city's sprawl, and negotiating the cramped and confusing streets is extremely difficult.

Directly in front of the port on the peninsula's east side is the bustling Plaza San Juan de Dios, site of the imposing Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and a dozen or so seafood restaurants with outdoor tables for people watching. (Caditanos - the locals - appear to live on fish, shellfish, and wine, and the number of stand-up eateries in town, especially in the dank streets around this plaza, is astounding.) Not far away, but on the west side of town, sits the ultra-ornate, golden-domed Catedral Nueva. Outstanding features inside include the choir stalls and, in the museum, the Custodia del Millon a 17th-century silver monstrance studded with thousands of jewels; in th crypt is the tomb of the Spanish composer Manuel de Falla (who was born in Cadiz in 1876).

The old cathedral, the Iglesia de Santa Cruz (Calle Fray Felix), a 17th-century reconstruction of a church with 13thcentury origins, is near the new one. The Museo de Cadiz, also known as the Museo de Bellas Artes y Arqueologico (Museum of Fine Arts and Archaeology), on the same square, has respectable collections of art, including paintings by Zurbaran and Murillo, and archaeology, especially Phoenician and Carthaginian artifacts.

Another suggested stop is the 17th-century Oratorio de San Felipe Neri (Prayer Chapel of St. Philip Neri), several blocks away on Calle Santa Ines. The small church is famous as the place where Spain's first liberal constitution was hammered out in 1812; a painting by Murillo hangs above the altar. Next door is the Museo Historico Municipal, which has a fascinating ivory and mahogany scale model of Cadiz as it looked in the 18th century, It's closed Monday and weekend afternoons; no admission charge. The Oratorio de Santa Cueva on Calle Rosario contains religious frescoes by Goya.

Strolling through Cadiz is a delight, especially along the seaside promenade with its enormous banyan trees and verdant oases such as the Parque de Genoves, which offers summer concerts and a palm garden. Within the loop of the promenade, the streets and alleys of the Casco Antiguo twist and turn like tunnels in a rabbit warren. Just when they become too claustrophobic, however, or a bit too grimy, a sunny, palm-lined square appears.

The same streets witness the town's uproarious Carnavales, well known throughout Spain. The week before Cuaresma (Lent), residents go for days without sleep - singing, dancing in the streets, playing odd musical instruments, and rattling nerveracking noisemakers. A fireworks display signals the end of the carnival celebrations, and the next morning all that remains are several tons of confetti and empty wine bottles.

Vejer de la Frontera Andalusia

This picturesque village is another of Andalusia's white villages. It lords over the landscape 3.5 miles (52 km) from Cadiz, just a mile (1.6 km) off the main road. The site is another exceptional one, used as a defensive bastion ever since the days when Romans were fighting Iberians. The Moors couldn't pass up a chance to plunk down a hilltop castle, and some of its old walls have been restored. Nearby, the Iglesia de San Salvador (Church of the Holy Savior; Calle Rosario) is a blending of Gothic and Mudejar styles, built on the foundations of a mosque. The tiny streets here are no place to drive; if you'd like to explore, park in the lot at the entrance to the village.

Things to do in Tarifa

The town sits at Spain's southernmost point, looking out on the Strait of Gibraltar and, on a clear day, as far as Morocco. Head for the Casco Antiguo (Old Town) through an ancient portal. Within are the 16th-century Gothic Iglesia de San Mateo (Church of St. Matthew) and the 13th century (reconstructed) Castillo de Guzman el Bueno (Castle of Guzman the Good), still used as an army barracks.

The castle is usually open daily during the summer months, on weekends only the rest of the year; admission charge. However, ongoing renovations have closed the castle periodically, so it's best to check with the Oficina de Turismo before visiting. Most people who come to Tarifa don't come for the sightseeing, but to take the hydrofoil that makes a daily run across the water to Tangier in Morocco. Windsurfing is another big draw.En Route from Tarifa Return to N340 and head east toward Algeciras.

This part of Andalusia, known as the Campo de Gibraltar, is mainly an industrial and shipping center, of little interest to tourists. Several miles east of Tarifa, however, the famous Rock of Gibraltara little piece of the British Empire isolated in the Mediterranean comes into view, thrusting up from across the Bahia de Algeciras.

ALGECIRAS This growing port city has little to offer visitors except wonderful views of the Rock. More than three million passengers a year use the ferries and hydrofoils that ply the Strait of Gibraltar between Algeciras and both Tangier land the Spanish enclave of Ceuta in North Africa. The city also has a grand Void landmark hotel, the Reina Cristina (see Best en Route), the brainchild of a turn ofthecentury English lord who constructed a railroad across Andalusia. During World War II, the harbor side hotel's guests were joined by a number of German spies, who watched ship traffic through the strait from their second story rooms.

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Things to do in Andalusia and Gibraltar

The sunny southern region of Andalusia - eight provinces in an area about the size of Indiana - has come to symbolize Spain for much of the world. The home of flamenco also boasts three of the country's greatest architectural treasures: the fairytale Alhambra palace in Granada, Cordoba's Mezquita (Great Mosque), and the massive Gothic cathedral and evocative Santa Cruz quarter of Seville. Beyond these three queen cities are provincial capitals such as windwhipped Cadiz, where every street leads to the sea, and Jaen, spreading like a white fan at the foot of an awesome fortress.

With coastlines on both the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, this fabled land claims some of Europe's most popular beach resorts. Overbuilding in these areas has become a real problem, but devotees maintain that the coast is still a little piece of earthly paradise.

The history of Andalusia

Andalusia bears evidence of many great civilizations that settled along its shores. Phoenicians founded Malaca (Malaga) and Gadir (Cadiz), and Romans built major cities along the Rio Guadalquivir (Guadalquivir River) valley and the coast. The center of the centuries-long Moorish occupation that began in 711, Granada was the Moors' last stronghold until it fell to the Reconquest in 1492.

All this history has left its mark, turning Andalusian cities and towns into vast museums of art and architecture. Outside the population centers, the terrain consists of both arid desert and lovely, rolling hills. There are plenty of dull towns and villages, too, as well as dirty beaches, barren and ugly stretches of countryside, and urban purse snatchers. However, the selective traveler will discover a seemingly endless variety of delights.

Driving tour of Andalusia

The driving route outlined below begins at Cordoba, gateway to Andalusia, and continues southwest through the Guadalquivir river valley farmland for the most part and brutally hot in summer to Seville, which is the capital of the region. It then traverses horseand sherry country around Jerez de la Frontera and makes its way to Cadiz, on the Atlantic coast, from which it heads southeast, skirting white villages and the Mediterranean coast before arriving at the Rock of Gibraltar, one of the world's great natural landmarks and site of one of the last remaining British colonies.

After turning inland to visit the gorge split town of Ronda, it drops down to the coast again to pass through the touristy Costa del Sol. The route leaves the coast for good near the village of Salobrefia, climbing rugged mountains en route to magical Granada, and finally heads north to the lesser known towns of Jaen and Ubeda, almost untouched by tourism and well worth a visit.

Total highway driving for the route is approximately 612 miles (980 km). Fortunately, major highway improvements were made prior to Expo '92 in Seville, vastly improving driving conditions. Including two nights each at the three major cities (Cordoba, Seville, and Granada), the minimum time to allow for the full tour is 15 days.Keep in mind when planning your itinerary that churches, museums, historic sites, and other places of touristic interest usually open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM, and then again from around 4 or 5 PM to 7 or 8 PM; some hours change with the seasons. Many museums are open mornings only; closing days tend to be Sundays or Mondays. Furthermore, many places close during July and/or August.

Carmona things to do

Still partially surrounded by ancient Roman walls, this town has one of the richest histories in Andalusia. Known as Carmo to the Romans, the town straddled the famous Via Augusta, the Roman road that stretched from Cadiz to the north of Spain. In 206 BC, the Roman general Scipio crushed a Carthaginian army nearby. The road into town passes beneath the remnants of a 14th-century fortress - the Alcazar cleverly transformed into an excellent parador, and through the 17th-century Puerta de Cordoba (Cordoba Gate), built into the Casco Viejo (Old Town) walls. Once inside, go left up the hill to the parador (follow the signs) or follow Calle Santa Maria de Gracia to the center.

A town of about 23,000 residents, Carmona is just the right size for strolling alone through quiet, whitewalled streets or with everyone else out for the evening paseo in the circular Plaza de San Fernando, the town's nucleus. The plaza is lined with wrought-iron lampposts and centuries-old buildings, including the present and former town halls.

Within walking distance is the double-arched Puerta de Sevilla (Seville Gate) from Moorish times; outside stands the Iglesia de San Pedro (Church of St. Peter; on Calle San Pedro), with a 17th-century bell tower modeled after the famous Giralda in Seville.

The Gothic Iglesia de Santa Marla (on Calle Martin Lopez) contains the oldest calendar in Spain (6th century), carved on an arch in the Patio de los Naranjos (Orange Tree Courtyard).The necropolis romano about half a mile (1 km) outside town (off the Seville road) shelters several hundred tombs from the Roman imperial period 2,000 years ago. The Tumba del Elefante (Elephant Tomb), named for a statue at its entrance, features dining rooms and a kitchen that once had running water; historians believe that priests must have held some kind of banquet in honor of the deceased here. The Tumba de Sevilla (Seville Tomb) is the size of a villa and has its own pool.

The necropolis, which also contains a museum filled with Roman pottery, mosaics, busts, and glass vials, is closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays; admission charge. For further details, contact Carmona's Oficina de Informacion TUrlstica, Plaza de las Descalzas

Arcos de la Frontera car hire

Arcos (de la frontera is tacked onto the names of many towns that once stood along the Christian-Moorish boundary) sits on a lofty hill hemmed in on three sides by the Rio Guadalete (Guadalete River) and is the perfect place to explore by hire car from the airport at Malaga, Jerez or Seville. One of its attractions for visitors is its spectacularly situated government parador, perched along the edge of a cliff.

Arcos is also among the most picturesque of a dozen or so whitewashed Andalusian hill towns known as the pueblos blancos (white villages) and is included on the Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos (Route of the White Villages), a popular driving itinerary in the region.

The town has impressive Semana Santa (Easter Week) processions, including the singing of piercing melodies called saetasa kind of Easter flamenco and the running of a lone bull on Domingo de la Resurreccion (Easter Sunday).Legend has it that Arcos was founded by King Brigo, a grandson of Noah. Known as Medina Arkosh in Moorish times, this seemingly impregnable site was captured by Alfonso X in 1250. The Plaza de Cabildo (also known as Plaza de Espana) is the town's main square and the site of both the parador and a hair-raising terrace overlooking a valley of neat green fields and orchards.

Also on the square is the old Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) and the Iglesia de Santa Maria (St. Mary's Church). Climb the 386 feet to the top of the church's bell tower, but try to avoid arriving at the stroke of 12. The vIews from on high are spectacular: Look for the 18th-century tower of the glesia de San Pedro (St. Peter's Church; Plaza de Cabildo) at the other side of the hilltop and for the former castle of the Dukes of Arcos, below and to the right, now occupied by an English aristocrat.

Jerez de la Frontera things to do

Jerez is the home of Spain's distinctive fortified wine sherry, in fact, is an English corruption of the name of the town, from which English, Scottish, and Irish shippers began buying wine as early as the 16th century. Although Jerez, the main production center and a fairly large town of about 200,000 people, does have other points of interest, most visitors get into the spirit of things by touring one of the sherry wineries, or bodegas, that are the prime local attraction.

Jerez has some 100 bodegas; Among them are the Harvey, Gonzalez Byass, and Sandeman bodegas, but perhaps the best of the bunch belongs to the Domecq family, where visits can be arranged through the public relations department. Here visitors see the fermentation rooms, mixing tanks, warehouses for aging, and bottling lines, then sample one of the four main sherry varieties of fino (extra dry), amontillado (dry with fuller body), oloroso (medium dry with golden color), and dulce (sweet). The Domecq bodega is closed weekends during August; no admission charge.

The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art Jerez

The outstanding Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art), a rival to Vienna's renowned Spanish Riding School, is Jerez's second major attraction. Although the school has only been open since 1973, horse breeding and training has been an Andalusian enterprise since Moorish times, and it was the ancestors of the Hispano-Arab stallions strutting their stuff in Jerez that sired the famous Lippizaners. The Dancing Horses of Andalusia perform every Thursday at noon at the school's 1,450-seat arena; admission charge. Practice sessions are held at the area on other days of the week (except Sundays) between 11 AM and 1 PM, and visitors may watch free of charge.

The Wine Festival Jerez

In early September, Jerez hosts the Fiesta de la Vendimia, an annual wine harvest festival. An even better time of the year to be in town is during the week-long Feria del Caballo (Horse Fair) in May, when aloof aristocrats, the senoritos, gather to show off their steeds and horsemanship. Each day begins with a promenade of riders, followed by a procession of ornate carriages.

There are dressage and jumping competitions, a horse auction, and special rejoneo bullfights, when a man or woman on horseback faces the bull. Visitors can test their stamina at scores of casetas - open booths overflowing with wine and the seductive rhythms of improvised flamenco.

Jerez has its fair share of historical monuments and churches. Among the best are the 11th-century Alcazar, with Moorish baths, located off a large square called the Alameda Vieja. The baths can be visited every day (closed Sunday afternoons; admission charge), but much of the building is off limits to visitors.

Nearby, on the Plaza de Arroyo, is the 18th century Baroque Catedral de San Salvador, also called La Colegiata, built above an old mosque. Other notable churches include the late Gothic Iglesia de San Miguel (on Calle San Miguel, near the Plaza del Arenal) and the Iglesia de Santiago (on the Plaza de Santiago), each with finely carved portals.

Better known are the city's secular monuments. The Palacio Domecq, on Alameda Cristina (across from the tourist office), was the home of the Ponce de Leon family, built by the explorer in 1557 (still a private residence, it is not open to the public). The Renaissancestyle Casa del Cabildo, the old Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) on the Plaza de la Asuncion, today houses a library and an archaeological museum.

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Alicante Airport car hire

Alicante is the best place to book car hire from if you are planning a trip to Spain´s Costa Blanca. Alicante Airport car rentals start from just €99.00 per week and you can explore the region of Alicante and Benidorm in comfort and style, while saving plenty of money on public transport.

Alicante things to do

This provincial capital, known as Alacant in the local form of Catalan is the heart of the Costa Blanca resort area. It s a gracious Mediterraean city dominated by the Castillo Santa Barbara (St. Barbara Castle), which glowers down from a hilltop. Long before the present tourist boom, Alicante was a fashionable wintering place, thanks to its mild climate. Around 200 BC, the Romans had a settlement here known as Lucentum.

The same settlement, during 500 years of Moorish rule, was known as AIakant. In more recent times, Alicante has been an important port, exporting wine, raisins, and other agricultural products. Palm trees and arid surrounding hills give a hint of Africa to the city, an impression that is strengthened around the port area by the sight of Algerian women in caftans and Senegalese peddlers offering their wares. The Explanada de Espana, the promenade that fronts the harbor, is the place to stroll, sip a drink, and listen to the city band on Sunday mornings.

Alicante is a modern city of wide boulevards and numerous shops, but it does have a Casco Viejo (Old Town), a labyrinth of narrow streets lying on the lower slope of the Santa Barbara hill. And despite the hordes of tourists who alight here to soak up the sun along the local beaches, Alicante remains surprisingly Spanish in character. The Castillo Santa Barbara, whose foundations date back 2,200 years, is Alicante's main attraction. To reach the castle, walk along Paseo de Gomiz, which continues northeast along the beach from the Explanada, to the 660-foot tunnel penetrating the rock; an elevator (admission charge) takes visitors up to see the dungeons, moats, and battlements, which offer splendid views over the city and coast. The castle is open daily.

In the Casco Viejo, the Museo de Arte del SigloXX , also known as the Museo de la Asegurada, contains sculptures, paintings, and etchings by such artists as Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, and Antoni Tapies. The Iglesia de Santa Maria, the church almost opposite the museum, has a wonderful 18th-century Baroque facade, although it was built (on the site of a mosque) in the late 15th century by Ferdinand and Isabella.

Head toward the center of town along Calle Jorge Juan to the Ayuntamiento (City Hall), a 17th to 18thcentury palace with a magnificently ornate facade. The rococo chapel and some of the Baroque rooms are open to visitors in the mornings (ask the caretaker to open them). Note the brass plaque on the pillar of the main stairway; it's the sea level benchmark from which all of Spain's altitude measurements are calculated.

Alicante Cathedral

Between the Ayuntamiento and the modern Rambla de Mendez Nunez which is at the edge of the Casco Viejo and is the city's main throughfare is Alicante's cathedral, Catedral de San Nicolas (Calle Penalva), built during the 17th century on the site of a mosque and dedicated to the city's patron saint, Nicholas of Bari. A national monument open only during services, it has an austere Renaissance style, with beautifully carved gilded altars (severely damaged during the 1936-1939 Spanish Civil War, it has undergone extensive reconstruction). The pedestrians-only Calle Mayor, which runs behind the Ayuntamiento to the Rambla, and the side streets off it, are full of small shops selling typically Spanish gifts, leatherwear, pottery, and antiques.

On Thursday and Saturday mornings, the Mercadillo, a lively open air market, is held along the Paseo de Campoamor, beyond the Casco Viejo to the north of the Plaza de Espana and the bullring. The Teatro Principal has concerts and musicals during the winter season. In summer, nightlife centers on the disco-pubs of the Playa de San Juan, the long beach north of town. Alicante's own local beach, El Postiguet, is even more crowded, but the tiny island of Tabarca, a former haunt of pirates, lies a pleasant boat ride away. It's a good spot for snorkeling, with outdoor restaurants but no accommodations.

Trips leave from the harbor along the Explanada, or from Santa Pola (a much shorter sea trip), a fishing port 12.5miles (20 km) to the south. Alicante's Oficina de Turismo (2 Explanada de Espana is open daily during summer and can provide schedules.

During the week of June 24, the city goes wild with the unforgettable Hogueres de Sant Joan (Bonfires of St. John). The fiesta includes processions, bullfights, and fireworks, but the climax comes with the burning of colossal images, sometimes at considerable risk to life and limb, a legacy of pagan midsummer rites.

Places to go in Elche

It was founded by the Celtic Iberians and got its name from the Greek Helice, but much of the flavor of Elche (Elx in the local variation of the Catalan language) is Moorish. It's graced by some 600,000 date palms, originally planted by the Phoenicians (the dates are harvested from December to March).View the trees up close at the Huerto del Cura (Priest's Grove), a palm garden that also features an impressive collection of cacti and tropical flowers. The garden is open daily; there's an admission charge. Also within the grove is a replica of the Dama de Elche (Lady of Elche), a remarkable Greco-Iberian bust dating back to 500 BC, the original of which is on display in the Museo Arqueologico Nacional (National Archaeological Museum) in Madrid.

It was discovered in 1897 about a mile (1.6 km) south of Elche in the ruins at La Alcudia, where there now is a museum of Iberian and Roman relics, the Museo Monografico de La Alcudia.For a spectacular experience, visit Elche in August, when the world's longest-running play is staged in the blue-domed, 17thcentury Iglesia de Santa Marfa. The Misteri d'Elx (Mystery of Elche), celebrating the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, has been performed by local townspeople for six centuries. Although the songs are performed in an ancient form of Catalan, the action is not hard to follow, and the special effects, including the descent of angels from the lofty dome, are breathtaking. Entry is free (but competition for seats is keen).

Orihuela and Orihuela Costa

En Route from Elche Continue along N340, through the town of Crevillente to Orihuela, 21 miles (34 km) southwest of Elche in the Rio Segura valley. The center of a rich agricultural area, Orihuela has a late 13th century Gothic cathedral in the middle of the old quarter, on Calle Mayor.In its mused diocesano (diocesan museum) a famous Velazquez canvas, the Temptation of St. Thomas Aquinas, is kept under lock and key.

Velazquez painted the work at the request of Dominican friars, whose 17th-century Monasterio de Santo Domingo, later a university and currently a high school, has fine Baroque cloisters. Orihuela is the birthplace of Miguel Hernandez, a goatherd who became one of Spain's finest poets before dying tragically in Alicante's jail in 1942. Still on N340, the road crosses into the province and autonomous community of Murcia; at Monteagudo (about 17 miles/28 km from Orihuela), it passes a white statue of Christ atop a pinnacle commanding the huerta, a jigsaw of tomato, pepper, citrus, and cereal fields. From here, it's only a few miles to the capital.

Murcia Airport car hire

Murcia and its coastal regions have seen a massive influx of visitors during the past 5 years, and if you plan to visit the city, hire a car from Murcia Airport before you leave the UK. Murcia Airport car rentals are well priced and you can take advantage of plenty of discounts and special offers when you pre-book car hire online.

Most tourists pass through this pleasant and unhurried city of Murcia on the Rio Segura on their way to Cartagena or the coast, and this is a good place for a short respite from summer crowds. Founded in the 8th century by the Moors as Medina Mursla on the ruins of a Roman settlement, little of its Moorish past is in evidence today.

The major sights are in the older part of town on the north bank of the river. There, on Plaza Cardenal Belluga, is the mainly Gothic Catedral de Santa Maria, begun in the 14th century, but with a magnificent Baroque facade that was added in the 18th century. Inside, a statue of the Virgen de la Fuensanta (Madonna of the Holy Fountain), Murcia's patroness, presides over the altar. The church's Renaissance Baroque bell tower can be climbed for a stirring view of the city and the surrounding huerta.

The museo diocesano in the church contains La Fuensanta's gold crown, as well as one of Spain's finest polychrome woodcarvings, by the local sculptor Francisco Salzillo, depicting in amazingly lifelike detail the penitent San Jeronimo (St. Hieronymus, or St. Jerome). Most of the sculptor's work can be seen some distance away in the Museo Salzillo, which houses some of the woodcarvings that are carried in Murcia's Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions (see below), as well as a large number of terracotta figurines depicting episodes from the Gospels and the daily life of Murcian peasants.

Just north of the cathedral, on traffic-free Calle de la Traperfa, stands the Casino , a 19th century building that is another of the city's landmarks. Once a sumptuous private club for wealthier citizens, it is now a cultural center hosting a changing program of lectures, meetings, and other events. Marble, molded plaster, carved wood, and crystal chandeliers lend it an august air - visitors are welcome to look inside.

Farther north, the street broadens into Avenida Alfonso X el Sabia, a boulevard with many sidewalk cafes and a favorite spot for people watching. Many small shops can be found in the network of narrow pedestrian streets between Calle de la Traperfa and its parallel to the west, the Gran Via.

In Alcantarilla, 6 miles (10 krn) outside of town on the road to Granada, is the Museo de la Huerta, which contains traditional crafts, costumes, and implements of the region. A huge noria (water wheel), an iron replica of the wooden one used. Semana Santa, the week before Easter, with great solemnity and pomp in processions of stunning scope. More than 3,000 people take in a Miercoles de Ceniza (Ash Wednesday) procession, which stretches for nearly a mile. Several of Salzillo's sculptures are borne through the streets on Viernes Santo (Good Friday). On Domingo de la Resurreccion (Easter Sunday), a burst of gaiety sweeps the city with the start of the Fiesta de Primavera (Spring Festival).

Folk dancing, a jazz festival, and street festivals fill a week that ends with fireworks and a bizarre pageant known as the Entierro de la Sardina (Burial of the Sardine). Colorfully decorated carts parade down the streets, the riders thereon tossing little gifts to onlookers, and the event culminates in the burning of a large cardboard sardine to symbolize the end of Lent, when Catholics are supposed to abstain from meat (and therefore many locals eat a lot of sardines, which are the cheapest fish available).

Things to do in Cartagena

Just 30.5 miles (49 km) down the highway (N301) from MurcIa, thIs ancient port city encapsulates the Mediterranean coast's turbulent past. Founded by the North African Carthaginians during the 3rd century BC, called Carthago Nova in its flourishing Roman epoch, pillaged by the Visigoths, independent under the Moors, and sacked by SIr Francis Drake in 1588, Cartagena was the port from which King Alfonso XIII sailed into exile after his 1931 abdication. Because of its deep, sheltered harbor, Cartagena is Spain's most important naval base.

Ancient ramparts lend a fortress-like air to the city, which is dominated by four hills. The best overall view is from the Castillo de la Concepcion, now more a park or garden than a fortress, where a Moorish-built lighthouse stands. To the west lie the ruins of the 13th-century cathedral, destroyed in the 1936-39 Spanish Civil War.

At the port, opposite a monument to sailors who died in the 1898 Spanish-American War, is one of the world's first submarines. The 85 ton brown and gray cigar-shaped craft was built by a local inventor, Isaac Peral, in 1888. The impressive Ayuntamiento (City Hall) lies close by, and at one corner is the Oficina de Turismo.

Don't miss the Museo Nacional de ArqueoLogfa Maritima (National Museum of Maritime Archaeology); 2 miles (3 km) from the center of town (Faro de Navidad, Puerto de Cartagena; It is a treasure house of exhibits related to Mediterranean shipping, including ancient amphoras, anchors, jewelry, and a fullsize model of a Roman galley.

Easter week in Cartagena

Semana Santa (Easter week) attracts many visitors to Cartagena. Particularly impressive are the earlymorning processions on Viemes Santo (Good Friday). During the procession from the fishing quarter of Santa Lucia, singers compete to show their mastery of the saeta, a spinetingling flamenco lament. Around dawn, three processions blend together and continue as one.

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Car hire in Madrid Spain

The best place to hire a car in Madrid, Spain is from Madrid Barajas Airport, as you will find plenty of special deals and online offers and cheap prices you will not find elsewhere. There is much more to Madrid than the city centre, and if you are planning a driving holiday around Madrid, book cheap car hire from Barajas Airport before you leave home.

Things to do in Almagro Spain

The landscape is pure Kansas, but visitors will not find a Renaissance jewel of a town like this one anywhere within wishing distance of Wichita.

The Order of Calatrava, the oldest and most important Spanish knightly order, established its headquarters here after winning the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212; the order's squiggly cross emblem can be seen On nearly everyone of the historic buildings in town. The 16th-century Monasterio de la Asuncion de la Calatrava (Monastery of the Assumption of Calatrava), now commonly called the Convento de los Padres Dominicanos (Dominican Fathers Convent) located on the main street, Ejido de Calatrava, should not be missed.

The friars in residence happily escort visitors around the extraordinary Renaissance cloister, which surrounds pillars of solid Carrara marble, and the attached Gothic church.

The unusual green, glassed-in balconies propped up by the stone pillars of the elongated 14th-century Plaza Mayor reflect the southern German influence of the Fugger dynasty of banker-princes, who made Almagro their Iberian branch office during the 16th-century western hemisphere gold boom that helped keep Holy Roman Emperor Charles V solvent. Their palace, the Palacio de los Fucares , has a stone staircase and assembly hall worth seeing.

Midway along the Plaza Mayor's south portico is the entrance to Almagro's unique Corral de Comedias, a theater dating back to the 16th century's golden age of Spanish drama. Its survival is due to the fact that it was bricked up and forgotten until 1954. If no one's on duty to show off the two-tiered, half-timbered stage, the linteled galleries, and the pit for the groundlings.

During the annual Festival de Teatro Clasico, held throughout July, theater companies from all over the Spanish speaking world muster forces on its creaky stage and perform classics by masters such as Calderon de la Barca, Lope de Vega, and their foreign contemporaries including Shakespeare and Moliere. Tickets go on sale in mid-August and sell out quickly (they can be reserved through the tourist office).

A stroll around the heraldic mansions and palaces of the town's oldest quarter offers strong evidence that the women of Almagro continue to practice the local tradition of lace making. It's not uncommon to find practitioners sitting in doorways, wooden bobbins flying and clacking in their hands. There are also a few lace shops in the Plaza Mayor, where the markup is negligible.

For fine table linen, handkerchiefs, and towels at bargain prices, call at the home/shop of Marfa Carmen Manzano. Families from all over Spain also travel to Almagro to stock up on pickled baby eggplants, a regional delicacy packed in the earthenware jugs that are displayed in front of every shop in town.

Valencia and Murcia car hire

If you fly into Valencia or Murcia Airports, make sure you book car hire before you go. Valencia and Murcia Airport car hire is particularly busy in the summer months, and to avoid disappointment and delays when you arrive, you should book your rental car online before you fly. Cheap airport car hire in Alicante, Valencia and Murcia can be pre-booked in minutes.

The Levante region of Spain

Almond blossoms and white beaches, verdant orchards and stern mountain ranges, palm trees and sparkling blue water, and at least 300 days of sunshine a year is it any wonder that the Mediterranean coast south of Valencia has become one of Europe's most popular vacation areas?
Spain's Levante region is the coastal fringe bridging the gap between Catalonia and Andalusia. It includes three provinces (Castellon, Valencia, and Alicante) and the single province autonomous community of Murcia. Striking scenery, lively fiestas, unusual historical sights, and distinctive food are highlights of the region.

Costa Blanca car hire Spain

The middle section of this region, the Costa Blanca (White Coast), which lies in the province of Alicante, is the most popular, and unless you book car hire early, availability of vehicles becomes severely stretched in summer. Every summer, hundreds of thousands of Spaniards and other Europeans flock here to bask in the sunshine and enjoy a wide range of sporting and entertainment activities.

Resorts have mushroomed where there were only fishing villages and deserted beaches barely 35 years ago.The region caters to all tastes, and although it's easy to escape the crowds, it may not be advisable to plan a vacation here during July and August unless you don't mind the extreme heat. Spring and autumn are fine times to visit, and rainy winter days are usually followed by weeks of dazzling sunshine.

The Levante's lushness is due not only to the sunshine, but also to the Moors, who converted the arid but fertile plain between the treeless mountains and the sea into lush huertas (orchards and vegetable farms) by introducing an ingenious irrigation system. Remains of norias, giant Moorish water-raising wheels, can still be found on the huertas, where citrus fruits (thousands of tons of oranges and lemons are exported annually), dates, tomatoes, and a wealth of other fruits and vegetables still flourish.

Valencia history

The Moorish kingdom of Valencia, which dominated a vast slice of the coast, was added to James I of Aragon's Christian lands in 1238, and became part of the kingdom of Castile in the late 15th century. Murcia, which at one time acted as an intermediary between the Moors and Christians, was also conquered by Aragon, but remained a separately administered kingdom for another two centuries.

Although Castilian Spanish is the language of Murcia, the language commonly spoken in the region of Valencia is a local version of Catalan, known as valencia in Valencia and as alicantino in Aiicante. Anyone who speaks Castilian, French, or any other Latin language will not find this too difficult to understand, and those who attempt to master a few spoken phrases will certainly please the local residents. Good morning is bon dia, and please is per favor, Place names often appear in both languages - for example, Alicante is Alacant in the local language; Elche is Elx.
But everybody speaks Castilian, too, and since the Costa Blanca is such a popular vacation spot for British tourists, it is easier in some areas to find a speaker of English than of any other tongue.

Valencia and paella

Rice, which grows here in abundance, forms the basis for scores of regional dishes, including paella valenciana (rice with meat and seafood, including octopus and mussels), paella marinera (rice and fish), and arroz con costra (rice with pork and sausage, topped off with a half-dozen eggs). Squid and octopus are also popular local delicacies. Moorish influence is evident in such sticky desserts as turron (nougat) and glazed walnuts. Horchata de chufa, a milky chilled mixture of chufas (usually translated as earth almonds or tiger nuts), cinnamon, sugar, and water, is a favorite drink. Some good wines are produced in the region, particularly the hearty Jumilla and Yecla reds in Murcia.

Many travelers time their visits to the region to coincide with one of the many re-enactments of the epic struggles between Moors and Christians, some of which are among the most colorful, exuberant fiestas to be found anywhere. All along the coast, towns and villages spend the entire year preparing for their annual Moros y Cristianos battles. The towns of Alcoy (April 22), Elda (first week in June), and Villajoyosa (July 25), all in the province of Alicante, stage particularly spectacular make-believe battles.

Driving from Valencia to Murcia

The best driving route in the region starts in Valencia and heads south to the gracious seaport city of Alicante and on to the inland city of Murcia, with a spur to Cartagena back on the coast before veering southwest toward Granada. Those who can't wait to see the glories of the Alhambra can do the Valencia-Granada run in one day, but there are abundant reasons to spend at least four to five days on the journey.

As elsewhere in Spain, when planning visits to churches, museums, historic sites, and other places of touristic interest in the Levante region, keep in mind that they usually are open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM and then again from around 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 PM; hours may change with the seasons.

Denia things to do

Thanks to its mild climate and excellent beach, Denia has prospered from tourism, yet it has retained its charm. Founded by Phoenicians, the town's name is derived from the Roman Dianium, after the local Temple of Diana (no longer in existence). The Visigoths made it an episcopal seat, and it later served as the capital of a Moorish kingdom. The Museo Arqueologico, set in the 18th-century citadel perched above the town, contains some noteworthy Roman and Moorish relics unearthed in the area.

There are also some interesting 18th-entury buildings in the Plaza de los Caldos, including the Iglesia de Santa Maria (Church of St. Mary) and the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall). Denia is a good base for excursions. There is year-round service to the islands of Ibiza and Majorca via a passenger and vehicle ferry. For those In a rush, hydrofoils make the journey in 90 minutes. Schedules may vary, so inquire at the tourist office.
The trip takes two hours and 20 minutes and trains leave from the station on Calle Manuel Lattur in Denia.

Things to do in Javea

Situated on one of the Costa Blanca's finer bays, between two capes - Cabo de San Antonio and Cabo San Martin (the latter just around the coast from Cabo de la Nao)this resort town's barrio viejo (old quarter) stands on a rise inland from the fishing and pleasure port. Narrow streets, watchtowers, stone houses, surviving city walls and gateways, and an old castle contribute to its medieval look. Worth a visit is the Museo Municipal, built by King Felipe III during the early 17th century. It contains Roman and Punic remains, ceramics, and traditional crafts.

Places to visit in Altea

he name comes from the Moorish - Altaya, meaning health for all, and many visitors proclaim this the Costa Blanca's prettiest town. Modern buildings now line the waterfront, but the barrio viejo (old quarter) remains. Steep, narrow streets climb up to the parish church with its blue tile dome, characteristic of churches in the Levante region. In recent years, a number of artists of various nationalities have made their homes here. The church square (Plaza de Calvo Sotelo) is a pleasant place to site and watch the passersby and the stallholders selling their crafts.

If you're here on a Sunday afternoon, watch for local men playing pilota de carrer, a fiercely competitive game in which players whack a small hard ball at one another with their bare hands.

Benidorm car hire

There is so much to see and do in Benidorm that car hire should be pre-booked at Alicante Airport before you travel so you avoid delays on arrival and make the most of this diverse and fun region of Spain.

Things to do in Benidorm

This is the place for anyone who wants to take a day off from Spain. Formerly a simple fishing village, it has become an international resort town (almost everyone speaks English), cluttered with high-rise buildings and catering mainly to those on inexpensive package tours. Pensioners from all over Europe flock here in winter, and teenagers of all ages take over the place during the summer.

There are two fine beaches (topless), and the town is immaculately maintained. Jousting tournaments, dog races, discotheques, and bars (the nightlife tends to get a bit wild) are some of the attractions. The huge Benidorm Palace nightclub is the Costa Blanca's answer to the Folies Bergeres, complete with barebreasted dancers and flamenco, while the Casino Costa Blanca packs in gamblers by the busload. A passport is required for entry; there's also an admission charge.

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Things to do in Castile La Mancha Spain

Scattered across a landscape of arid mountains, thick-forested river valleys, and endless flat, stultifying plains, the communities of the Castile La Mancha region appear as though they've been left behind by the modern world. Villages, though charming, seem cloaked in a sense of doom; little jewels of Renaissance religious architecture are boarded up and abandoned; and John Deere service signsthe only evidence of contemporary cultureline the main drags of dusty prairie crossroad towns.

Tilled grain fields, vineyards, and shepherds who maneuver their flocks across the highway are reminders that hardscrabble agriculture provides over a third of this vast region's million and a half inhabitants with their only livelihood.

Never a center of tourism, Castile La Mancha, one of Spain's 17 autonomous communities and composed of the provinces of Guadalajara, Cuenca, Albacete, Ciudad Real, and Toledo, tends to be seen only by travelers on their way to somewhere else. But even if you omit the city of Toledo from the itinerary, the region's claim on the visitor's attention span is justified by three firstrate towns Sigiienza, Cuenca, and Almagroplus some unique swaths of landscape that stand out amid all the empty space that in some curious way manages to bind a vast, diverse region together.

The region has been historically known as Castilla la Nueva (New Castile) and, until 1977, it included Madrid and excluded Albacete. Originally part of the kingdom of Castile, its nucleus consisted of the southern lands that fell under Christian domination just after the reconquest of Toledo from the Moors in 1085.

The region was later expanded to include the harsh-contoured eastern plateau. New Castile was originally ruled by fighting religious brotherhoods (the Knights of Santiago, the Knights Templars, and the Knights of Calatrava) who received land and feudal privileges as rewards for their service in the Reconquista (reconquest of the Iberian peninsula). While the Catholic Church long wielded power from Toledo, secular control of the region later passed to noble dynasties. For centuries New Castile was the bread-basket of central Spain.

But the land was never able to sustain a booming economy, especially after agriculturally more productive lands were incorporated into the greater nation unified by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella in the 15th century. The immortal early 17th-century author Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra chose aptly when he had his fictitious Don Quixote seek out knightly adventures in tiny, dreary farm towns of La Mancha's flatlands.

For centuries the residents of the region managed a meager existence through farming and, for a time, small industry. Then, after years of neglect and relative isolation from the rest of Spain, the region's fortunes began to shift. In 1977 two years after the death of Generalissimo Francisco Franco ended his 36 year right wing dictatorshipthe Spanish map was drastically overhauled, creating the new autonomous community of Castile La Mancha, which excludes Madrid and includes the adjacent province of Albacete.

When the new regional authorities began to take inventory of their territory, they happily found that it had a lot more going for it than anyone had thought, its most valuable asset being a varied and almost entirely untouched landscape, with winding rivers and inland lakes stretching from the arid, rust colored foothills of Guadalajara to the lush green pine forests, towering granite cliffs, and deep cut canyons of Cuenca. Even the vast, flat stretches of pokey old La Mancha turned out to possess towns of considerable charm, with extraordinary architectural flourishes in no way inferior to the castles, churches, and convents found in the rest of the region.

Unlike other parts of Spain, where visitors must pick their way through ugly industrial zones and high rise apartment blocks to locate the old Quarter (usually referred to as the Casco Viejo), this region has not only its monumental jewels fairly intact, but their settings as well. The market towns and villages have not changed much from former times, although they've paid a heavy social and economic price. Many villages have been abandoned altogether, and nearly all the towns along the way seem to be given over to elderly, beretclad men. Women, strangely enough, remain unseen, and such adolescents as there are hang around listlessly on the street corners or in the rock 'n' roll bars, waiting for their chance to escape to the cities.

Castilian cuisine

As might be expected, given the distinct provinces that make up this region, variety is the keynote in the culinary department. In northern Guadalajara, the Castilian taste for tender roast meat, suckling pig (cochinillo asado), lamb (cordero asado), and kid goat (cabrito) predominates. In Cuenca, the visitor will come across a few dishes unheard of elsewhere, such as ajo arriero, a creamy paste of mashed codfish and garlic, delicious when spread on Cuenca's excellent bread. In both areas, however, pride of place goes to game dishes, including partridge (perdiz), rabbit (conejo), and wild boar (jabali)and to trout, now mostly fattened in fish farms, but nearly as tasty as its riverbed cousin, and available year-round. La Mancha, where wine and cheese are first and foremost, is an altogether different story.

But it, too, has a delicious and unique menu, which shows its Moorish origins in unusual combinations of flavors: for instance, migas del pastor (croutons fried in olive oil, with garlic, ham, fatback, sausage, and grapes), stewed lamb seasoned with nutmeg, saffron, and white wine, and pisto manchego (a thick vegetable stew with beef or rabbit). The ubiquitous cheese queso manchego (La Mancha cheese), from ewe's milk, can be fresh from the farm or aged to bring out its strong flavor.

Castile la Mancha in Autumn

Autumn, when the leaves of the birch trees change color, is by far the best time to visit this region. At night, at these altitudes of 800 to 1,200 feet, the temperature can drop drastically even in summer so be prepared. And don't come in the winter; even local residents don't like it here during that severe season.

Keep in mind when planning visits to churches, museums, historic sites, and other places of touristic interest that in Castile La Mancha as elsewhere in Spain opening hours are generally from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM and then again from 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 PM; schedules are abbreviated on weekends, and may also change with the season.

Sigiienza places to visit

It's well worth an extra night in Sigiienza to allow for an excursion into the surrounding mountain towns. All told, the suggested loop that follows entails a detour of 172 miles (275 krn), but it can be cut short at more than one point for the return to Sigiienza. From Paseo de la Alameda, head northwest on C114, following signs for Atienza, 19 miles (31 km) away.

Atienza's lordly 12th-century castle will be visible long before the rest of the town comes into view; a closer look reveals four Romanesque churches, red-tiled and half-timbered townhouses, the Plaza del Trigo (Plaza of Wheat) supported by lovely stone columns, and the 11th to 13thcentury arches of the town walls.

At the fork in the road outside of town, make a left onto C101 going south toward Guadalajara. Jadraque lies 20 miles (33 km) ahead, with its castle on a conical hill towering over lavender-studded fields that feed the bees that make the honey that is the province's main cash crop.

Another 12 miles (19 km) ahead on C101 lies the walled town of Hita, home of Juan Ruiz, the Archpriest of Hita, a 14th-century clergyman and author of the Libra de Buen Amor (Book of Good Love), a ribald and picaresque work that attacked medieval Spain's privileged classes and became the pre-eminent classic of its age. Hita's old city walls are still standing, but many churches and other sites were destroyed in the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939).

The townspeople, though, still strive to keep the past alive, and, early in July, Hita comes to life for a medieval festival, complete with jousting tournaments, colorful folk dancing, and openair theater performances. Continue south along C1Ol for 14 miles (22 km) until it rejoins N11 4 miles (6 km) north of Guadalajara, the provincial capital. Leveled during the civil war, Guadalajara does not pretend to be anything other than a highrise bedroom community of Madrid, not worth the bother except to see the 15th-century Palacio de Los Duques del Infanto, with its diamond-studded facade,on the Plaza de Los Caidos.

From Hita travelers can return to Sigiienza directly, or press on to one more town. To continue on, take N320 east toward Sacedon and Cuenca, but turn onto C200 about 14 miles (22 km) down the road. Soon after, the town of Pastrana rises up on a geologic hump over the surrounding patchwork plains. A pleasant place for a stroll is the steep quarter that once housed Moors from Granada who worked on silk tapestries commissioned by the Dukes of Pastrana.

Things to do in Cuenca

A spectacular setting, picturesquely and precariously located hanging houses, natural wonders, elegant monuments, modern art, and good local food it's almost impossible to be disappointed by Cuenca. The city's medieval Casco Viejo (Old Town) is perched atop a steep escarpment where the Rio Huecar, a narrow trickle of a stream, intersects with the meandering Rio Jucar, graced by a bower of birch trees angled like crossed swords over its banks.

The town's medieval streets cascade down the escarpment, so exploring it entails just two directions, up or down, and is best done on foot. (For those short of wind, there is a bus that runs every 20 minutes from the new quarter up to the Casco Viejo's main square, the Plaza Mayor de Pio XII, or simply Plaza Mayor.

Also planned is an escalator from modern Cuenca up to the Casco Viejo.) A view of the city from an outside vantage point is recommended first, however. Walk behind the cathedral, which edges the Plaza Mayor, past the Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses), and over the steelandwood footbridge that leads to the opposite side of the Huecar gorge; this site offers a great perspective on the most photogenic side of the Casco Viejo.

The Casas Colgadas

The Casas Colgadas are 14th-century houses that, for want of space, were built several stories high and right at the edge of the escarpment, with wooden balconies cantilevered out over the gorge itself. Two have had their lath and timber innards wonderfully restored and transformed into the Museo de Arte Abstracto Espanol, displaying works by modern masters who settled in Cuenca in the 1950s and 1960s, such as Fernando Zabel, Luis Feito, Antoni Tapies, Eduardo Chillida, and Antonio Saura.

Cuenca Cathedral

The Catedral de Cuenca, on the Casco Viejo's Plaza Mayor, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries with a later facade and is notable for its design, an amalgam of French Gothic and Anglo-Norman styles unique to Spain. Also noteworthy inside is the mix of Baroque and neo-classical details on the 18th-century altarpiece and side chapels, as well as a profusion of iron grillwork. The cathedral's mused diocesano (diocesan museum) contains two EI Greco canvases, the 12thcentury statue of the Virgen del Sagrario, and some interesting Flemish tapestries. The museum is closed Mondays; admission charge.

For more spectacular views over both river gorges and the granite cliffs opposite, take any of the streets going left uphill from the Plaza Mayor to the highest part of the rock plinth on which old Cuenca sits. A town map identifying the profusion of ruined convents, churches, and noble palaces along the way is available from the Oficina de Turismo down in the modern city.

Religious music week Cuenca

Cuenca is known for its annual Semana de Musica Religiosa (Religious Music Week) held the week before Easter, with performances packing a new auditorium built into the Huecar cliffside. Orchestral and polyphonic choral groups from all of Europe take part in the festival, notable for reviving the works of lesser-known Renaissance composers.

Those with the time to spend an extra day in the area and a desire for a change of scenery may wish to pack a picnic lunch and make a detour to the northeast, into the surrounding Serrania de Cuenca mountain range, with its trout streams and spectacular birch and pine trees. To make the 94mile (150km) day trip, take CU920/921 by hire car, which begins at the small bridge where the Rios Huecar and Jucar converge, and head north along the Jucar for 13 miles (21 km) to the village of Villalba de la Sierra. Bear sharply right at the sign for Tragacete Ciudad Encantada. Approximately 200 yards ahead, bear left, remaining on CU921.

Climb up the mountain for 2.5 miles (4 km), park at the souvenir stand, and walk up to the Ventano del Diablo, a natural balcony carved by wind and water erosion, which com mands a striking view down the 10mile long canyon that the Rio Jucar has gouged out of its limestone bed. Return to the car, continue upward, and take the well-marked road to the right (CU913) to the Ciudad Encantada (Enchanted City). Here the sights are almost as Disneyesque as the name suggests. Centuries of erosion have sculpted the rock into fanciful shapes that resemble everything from balancing seals to gigantic mushrooms. It takes about 40 minutes to walk from end to end.

Continuing along CU921 over the Jucar gorge toward Tragacete, the road is narrow but well graded (there are guard rails only on the sharpest curves, but two-way traffic, thankfully, is almost nonexistent). Pass the reservoir and the trout hatcheries of Una, and follow the road inland, now some 4,600 feet above sea level. At Tragacete, a popular hunting village, turn left at the sign for Nacimiento del Rio Cuervo and continue another 8 miles (13 km) on the rough road to the rest area and picnic grounds. At the Source of the Rio Cuervo, streams come trickling in a crystal curtain out of the rock face and down a mossy, juniperframed cliffside. Hiking paths abound.

After taking in the valley at Vega del Coronado, continue along the same road, which now curves back on itself and leads down the other side of the sierra, even more thickly forested with Scotch pine and holm oak. Follow the signs to Las Majadas.

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Things to do near Madrid

It's not necessary to go as far as Toledo or Segovia to escape the bustle of Madrid or see a bit of Castile. Within an hour's drive of the capital, traffic permitting, it's possible to sample huge fresh strawberries at a green oasis in the dusty plains, visit the house where Cervantes was born, or take in the cool peaks of the Sierra de Guadarrama.

Madrid is often blisteringly hot in summer, and madrileños who don't go to the coast head for the hills of the Sierra de Guadarrama. The mountain towns aren't especially beautiful, but they serve as weekend retreats and bases for hiking (in winter, the higher villages attract about 300,000 skiers each year). There are also some beautiful scenic views, especially where the mountains overlook a river or a reservoir.

Castile la Mancha

To the south, where the dusty plains of Castile La Mancha begin, the countryside is far from exciting, but there are at least two spots in this area worth visiting. One is the delightful little medieval village of Chinchon, today famous for its widely consumed anis de Chinchon liqueur. The other is Aranjuez, a former royal residence that is still an oasis of luxuriant gardens and abundant vegetation. To the east, Alcahi de Henares is best known as the birthplace of the man who wrote Don Quixote.

And the greatest cultural attraction in the immediate Madrid region is the monumental monastery and palace of EL Escorial' A few miles away is the Valle de Los Cafdos (Valley of the Fallen), the controversial monument to the dead of the Spanish Civil War and burial site of Generalissimo Francisco Franco.

This chapter has been designed so that, with one exception, these locations can be enjoyed in easily managed day trips (the Sierra de Guadarrama excursion is best done in two days by hire car from Madrid Barajas Airport).

Things to do in Chinchon

To say there is nothing much to Chinchon would be an understatement. Founded in 1085, the village's centerpiece today is the 16th-century Plaza Mayor, an oddly shaped square of rickety three-story arcaded buildings topped with 224 wooden balconies. The village was immortalized in the film - Around the World in 80 Days, and draws as many as 15,000 visitors per weekend, many of whom arrive in cars.

In the past, the square was a favorite (and crowded) parking place for day trippers, but new rules in effect on weekends prohibit parking within 100 yards of the square, leaving it traffic-free and even more attractive. Since 1502, the Plaza Mayor has been the site of bullfights, and it is still occasionally cordoned off for them.

They are usually held during fiesta week (August 13 through 18), but be warned as a rule it's scorching hot here at that time of the year.Try to visit Chinchon during spring or early summer. Sit at one of the many open-air cafes in the Plaza Mayor and enjoy a small glass of the drink for which the village is nationally famous. The anis of Chinchon is made with the oily seeds of locally grown anise, a member of the parsley family, and alcohol. Those who haven't eaten yet should ask for the dulce, or sweet, variety the seco (dry) is potent stuff!

Chinchon is also famous for its ajo (garlic), and for bread baked in the shapes of fish, horses, owls, eagles, and other animals. The loaves can be bought varnished for decoration or unvarnished to eat. There are several bakeries on the Plaza Mayor. Looming over one side of the square is the parish Iglesia de la Asuncion (Church of the Assumption), built between 1534 and 1626; its highlight is the Assumptio of the Vlrgin by Goya, who often stayed in Chinchon. Just behind the opposite corer is the Parador de Chinchon from which there is a good view of the well-preserved 15th century castle, with its circular fortIfIed towers; it was ransacked, along with the rest of the town, by Napoleon's troops in 1808.

Things to do Aranjuez

This town (pronounced Ahrahnhwayth) enjoys a pleasant climate that provides a respite from the blistering summer heat., This fact wasn´t lost on Spanish monarchs, whose efforts at crating a Spanish version of Versailles here attract many visitors today.
The informal Jardin de la Isla (Garden of the Island), on an island in the Rio Tajo (Tagus River) next to the Palacio Real (Royal Palace), dates from Philip II's time in the 16th century.

Felipe V, whose rule spanned the first half of the 18th century, chose Aranjuez as a royal residence. His successors, Fernando VI and Carlos III demolished the Palacio Real - a fire destroyed much of the original building in 1712, and the present building was constructed in 1744 and built a huge square in front of it and the large, French-modeled Parterre gardens around it. From 1792 to 1803, Carlos IV built a second palace, the Casa del Labrador, in some ways as beautiful as the first though much smaller, and added the vast landscaped park Jardin del Principe (Prince's Garden)that surrounds it.

The spacious leafy gardens and long, tree shaded avenues of Aranjuez (population 37,000) are delightful for an unhurried stroll (and they're expected to get even better, thanks to a $7.2 million renovation of the urban center's old quarter now under way). The Palacio Real and the Casa del Labrador are both richly decorated with ornaments, including priceless gifts from royalty around the world.

The palace has hundreds of rooms; the best known is the Salon de Porcelana (Porcelain Hall), the former reception hall, whose walls and ceilings are covered with white porcelain by the Italian artist Gricci. The Casa del Labrador (Peasant's House, so named because a farm worker’s home used to stand on the site), in the nearby Jardin del Plincipe, contains an abundance of marble, gold, semiprecious stones, crystal, silk hangings, Roman mosaics, huge chandeliers, and 27 elaborate clocks.

The gardens are open daily; the Palacio Real and the Casa del Labrador are closed Mondays. One admission charge allows entry to the Palacio Real (the visit here is by guided tour) and the Casa del Labrador; there's no admission charge to the gardens.

Aranjuez is nationally famous for its delicious crops, asparagus and strawberries in particular, and from March through May the roadsides are crammed with stalls selling produce. A meal isn't complete here without a first course of green asparagus and a dessert of strawberries and cream. A popular excursion for madrileños is the wonderful Tren de la Fresa (Strawberry Train), a 19th-century-style steam train that runs to Aranjuez from Estacion de Atocha, Madrid's main train station, on weekends and public holidays from May through October.

The ticket includes visits to the Palacio Real, the Casa del Labrador, and the gardens and free strawberries on the train. For information, contact the main ticket office for RENFE, the Spanish national railway.

Things to do in Alcala de Henares

The greatest writer in the Spanish language, Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, author of Don Quixote, was born here in 1547, but the town's history goes back much further. The area around Alcala de Henares includes several prehistoric, Roman, and Visigothic sites, but unfortunately none is open to the public.

A 3,600 square foot Roman site from the 4th century was discovered in 1988, and it includes an important multicolored mosaic from a villa in the Roman settlement of Complutum, in the Rio Henares valley. The nearest anyone can get to the remains is the Museo Arqueologico del Taller Escuela de Arqueologia (School of Archaeology Workshop Museum, also known as the Museo TEAR) at Paseo de Juncal.

Alcala's golden age began in 1498, when Cardinal Francisco Jimenez de Cisneros, Queen Isabella I's confessor, founded the famous Universidad Complutense (Complutensian University). For many years the most important institution of higher learning in Spain, it published Europe's first polyglot Bible, a six-volume work printed from 1514 to 1517, with side by side texts in Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Chaldee, and Syriac (a dialect of Aramaic spoken in Syria and Mesopotamia).

Many colleges and convents were built in the next two centuries, but the historic university was moved to Madrid in 1836, and the city has declined in importance ever since.The original university complex, the Colegio de San Ildefonso, in the Plaza San Diego (near the main Plaza Cervantes), is now the site of the much newer Universidad de Alcala, which has become an important center of North American studies.

Its 16th-century Plateresque facade is interesting; the doorway leads into the arcaded Patio de Santo Tomas (St. Thomas Courtyard) and the Paraninfo (great auditorium), and on to the adjacent 16th-century Patio Trilingiie (Courtyard of Three Languages, so named because Greek, Latin, and Hebrew were taught here).

Famous monuments in Alcala

Other monuments of note in Alcala include the Iglesia Magistral de San Justo, an imposing 17th-century church with a Gothic portal; the 13th-through 16th-century Palacio del Arzobispo (Archbishop's Palace), badly damaged by fire in 1939 (most of the town's churches suffered damage during the 1931-39 Second Republic and Spanish Civil War); and the Capilla de San Il defonso (Chapel of St. Ildephonsus, 2 Calle Pedro Gumiel), where Cardinal Cisneros's 16th-century marble tomb is on display.

The Salon Cervantes (Calle Santiago), one of the town's two theaters, was built in 1888 and is now open after many years of restoration (the other theater, the 16th-century Teatro Cervantes, is being restored to its former glory and is scheduled to re-open this year after decades as a cinema). The unusual Museo del Perfume, opened at the end of 1991, is located at the soap and perfume factory 3km from the town center.

El Pardo Spain

The highlight of the quiet village, 9 miles (14 km) from Madrid, is the delightful Palacio del Pardo, (also referred to simply as EI Pardo), a royal residence built in the 16th century on the foundations of a former hunting lodge, partly destroyed by fire in 1604 and enlarged in 1772.
Generalissimo Francisco Franco, Spain's right-wing dictator from the end of the Spanish Civil War in 1939 till his death in 1975, lived here, and the palace now serves as guest quarters for visiting heads of state; when not in use, it is open to the public.

Inside are paintings, frescoes (including some showing the palace's original furnishings), period furniture, and an extensive, fine collection of wall tapestries. Other charming buildings nearby include the Casita del Principe (Prince's Cottage), also built in 1772, and the Quinta del Pardo (El Pardo Villa), with a collection of 19th-century wallpapers.

The royal park adjacent to EI Pardo houses the smaller Palacio de la Zarzuela, also a former hunting lodge, dating from the 17th century and rebuilt during the 18th century. Badly damaged during the civil war, it was rebuilt in the 1960s and is now the principal residence of King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia; it's closed to the public.

En Route from EI Pardo Back on A6, the turnoff to EI Escorial – C505 - is clearly marked at Las Rozas, which is 10 miles (16 km) from Madrid. The road leads to the small town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial 29 miles (46 km) from Madrid; well before reaching the town, travelers will see the enormous rectangular monastery looming in the distance.


El Escorial

Philip II, the man who sent the invincible Spanish Armada to conquer Queen Elizabeth I's England and transferred the Spanish capital from Toledo to Madrid, was a deeply religious ruler who reigned during the zenith of Spain's Catholic Empire. In 1557, after Philip's army defeated the French in the battle of St. Quentin on the feast day of San Lorenzo. (St. Lawrence), Philip decided to establish a monastery in the later saint´s honor. The building was also to serve as a mausoleum for his parents, Charles V and Queen Isabel, and as a royal summer residence.

Built over the course of 21 years (1563 to 1584) by some 3,000 people, El Escorial comprises not only a monastery, a mausoleum, and a royal residence, but also a church, two palaces, a school, and one of the most Important libraries in Spain. An ambiguous structure, it manage to be both a grand repository of riches and a monument of great monastic importance.
The severe exterior of the church, for example, gives way to the.grandeur of the interior with its elaborate high altar, painted ceilings, and decorated side chapels. All the paintings are by Italian artists and depict events in the life of Christ except for one that portrays St. Lawrence being martyred.


There are statues here of Philip and three of his four wives. England's Mary Tudor is missing simply because she never vIsited Spain. One of the chapels contains a beautiful statue of ChrIst on th Cross, created by Benvenuto Cellini in 1562 from one piece of marble. Directly below the main altar is the Panteon de los Reyes (Royal Pantheon), reached by a marble and jasper stairway. Here, in black and brown gilded marble tombs, lie every Spanish monarch since the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (including Carlos I of Spain) except Felipe V, Fernando VI, and the present king. Also entombed are some of the country's queens, but only those who gave birth to a future king. Next door is the Panteon de los Infantes, where several princes and princesses are buried. Many sections of El Escorial were added by later monarchs, which explains the varied styles in the Palacios (Royal Apartments).

Elsewhere, the Biblioteca (Library), above the monastery entrance, has a marvelous Renaissance vaulted ceiling; among its treasures are the personal book collection of Philip II, unique Arab and Hebrew manuscripts, the 10th-century Codex Albedensis, St. Teresa of Avila's personal diary, and a Bible lettered entirely in gold. The Nuevos Museos (New Museums) contain works of art by Bosch, EI Greco, Ribera, Veron ese, Velazquez, Zurbaran, Titian, and many others.

Car hire Madrid Airport


If you are planning to travel around the Madrid region, the most economical and comfortable way to do it is to hire a car from Madrid Barajas Airport and take your time to explore the outlying towns and areas at your own pace. Madrid Barajas Airport car hire can be booked before you leave home, and most major car hire companies are represented at the airport, including Hertz, Helle Hollis and Avis, along with plenty of local car rentals companies.

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Things to do in Jaca Zaragoza and Huesca Spain

Medieval pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela n Galicia recuperated from their arduous trek over the Pyrenees at this ancient garrison town on a hill above the left bank of the Rio Aragon (Aragon RIver). Today, however, this is a principal base for exploring the Aragonese Pyrenees, so most visitors head toward the mountains. Dunng the summer, the Universidad de Zaragoza holds courses for foreign students; dunng the winter, the town bustles with skiers.

In town, Jaca's primary sight is its Romanesque cathedral. Completed in 1076, the cathedral was the first important Romanesque building Spain, and it influenced every artist, architect, and craftsman who entered the country to work on churches during the 11th century. Though partially restored in Gothic and later decorated in Plateresque styles, much of the original Romanesque remains.

Places to visit in Huesca Spain

This marks the start of the rich Ebro Plain. A venerable town, Huesca started out as an Iberian settlement named Osca, then in the first century BC became an independent state founded by the Roman Quintus Sertorius. The town was swept up in ensuing invasions by the Romans and the Moors, until Pedro I of Aragon liberated it from the Moors in 1096 and made it the residence of the Aragonese kings until 1118.

During the Spanish Civil War, it was a stronghold of Francisco Franco's Nationalist rebels, and, as such, suffered considerable damage. Subsequent restoration and recent prosperity have made the town sprawl, but there is a medieval core to explore. The Gothic cathedral, built from the 13th to the 16th centuries, has a lovely, famous 16th-century alabaster altarpiece by Damian Forment, a sculptor who worked extensively in Aragon in both the Renaissance and Gothic styles.

The Legend of the Bell Huesca

However, Huesca is most often linked with the bloody Leyenda de la Campana (Legend of the Bell), a 12th-century atrocity that is depicted across the street from the cathedral in a painting at the town hall. On the pretext of wanting advIce from rebellious nobles about how to cast a bell bIg enough to be heard through the entire kingdom King Ramiro II lured his rivals into his council room and beheaded them as tney filed in one by one.

Also tour the Iglesia de San Pedro el Viejo (Calle Cuatro Reyes;), a 12th-century Romanesque church whose cloister is one of the finest Romanesque examples of its kind in Spain; King Ramiro spent the last years of his life as a monk in the Benedictine monastery formerly attached to the church, and is now buried in the church's Capilla de San Bartolome (St. Bartholomew Chapel). The church is closed Sunday afternoons; admission charge.

Things to do in Zaragoza

Seen from the road, the slender towers and imposing domes of the two cathedrals of Zaragoza (also known in English as Saragossa) are the only grace notes in a huddle of ugly warehouses, factories, and high-rise apartments.The Rio Ebro (Ebro River) shines through the dusty heart of the city like a great ribbon, and there are some elegant fountains and treelined avenues. Called Salduba when inhabited by the Iberians, then later a Roman colony, it was ruled by the Moors for 400 years, although only the Palacio Aljafaria constructed in 1030, remains
from that period.

Built as a pleasure palace for Moorish kings, its original Arabian Nights architecture was tampered with first by the Aragonese kings; , then by Ferdinand and Isabella, who claimed it as their throne room; and later by the zealots of the Inquisition, who used it as a headquarters (today, part of the building houses government offices). Though it also endured an ignoble stint in the 19th century as an army barracks and most of its interior fixtures have been removed, it has noteworthy artesonados (inlaid wood ceilings) and other Moorish and Gothic ornamentation, as well as a splendid tiny mosque.

The local nobility, wary of any sovereign, managed to secure guarantees of autonomy known asfueros, and under these conditions, commerce in this crossroads city boomed. The impressive 16th-century La Lonja, or commercial exchange building , has a lovely Gothic vaulted ceiling with cherubs dancing around the tops of the supporting columns; the building today houses temporary exhibits of local artists.

Zaragoza Cathedrals

On either side of La Lonja are Zaragoza's two cathedrals. The 16th to 18th century Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pilar (Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar) has nearly a dozen azulejo-covered domes and four towers surrounding a larger, central dome. On the interior of the domes are frescoes, some by Goya.

Also inside is the Capilla de Nuestra Senora del Pilar, a chapel that houses a Gothic statue of the Virgin del Pilar and a jasper pillar upon which the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to St. James in AD 40. The chapel draws devout pilgrims, and on the Fiesta de la Virgen del Pilar (October 13) fervent followers parade the bejeweled statue through the city streets by the light of 350 carriage-borne lamps.

The cathedral's Museo del Pilar contains the jewelry and vestments used to adorn the statue, as well as some Goya sketches for the ceiling frescoes. The museum is open daily; admission charge. The old quarter south of the basilica, called EI Tubo, is an interesting warren of narrow streets with traditional shops and restaurants.

Zaragoza's older cathedral is the 14th-century Gothic Catedral de la Seo (Plaza de la Seo), now a melange of Gothic, Baroque, Plateresque, and Mudejar styles. Here there's also a museum, which features a striking collection of medieval and Renaissance French and Flemish tapestries. The cathedral and the museum are open daily; no admission charge. Also noteworthy is the Mudejar architecture of the Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalena (Plaza de la Magdalena), a church elaborately decorated in brick and tile and topped by a large square tower. It's open daily, but for mass only.

The Museum of Fine Arts Zaragoza

Zaragoza's Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts; 6 Plaza de los Sitios; contains a worthwhile collection of Roman mosaics and artifacts, as well as paintings and etchings by Goya. It's closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays; admission charge. Located in what was once the Palacio Pardo, the Museo de CamonAznar (23 Calle Espoz y Mina; houses the former art collection of the scholar for whom the museum is named; included are works by Goya, Velazquez, and Zurbaran. It's closed afternoons and Mondays; admission charge.

Car hire Zaragoza Airport

If you are planning to travel to Zaragoza, book a hire car from Zaragoza Airport and pick it up easily when you arrive. Cheap airport car hire at Zaragoza Airport can be booked online, and you can take advantage of special car rentals deals and special offers.

Daroca information

Hidden in a hollow, this town is surrounded by two miles of crumbling walls that once boasted 114 fortified towers, many of which still stand. On the banks of the Rio Jiloca (Jiloca River), Daroca was once a Roman military settlement, which then saw heavy flghting under the Moors - mainly for control of the province by rival Moorish factions. King Alonso I of Aragon liberated the town in 1122.

Today, Daroca has few vIsitors, and not much sightseeing to offer aside from the impressive city gates and a few Mudejar churches, which are currently undergoing restoration.Not much is left of the craft tradition that distinguished the medIeval town; what remains is on display in the Museo del Santisimo Misterio which has a number of fine woodcarvings, as well as an interesting alabaster altarpiece showing Flemish influence.

Things to see in Teruel

The barren, flat-topped hills that surround this old-fashioned town, capital of the province of Teruel, are echoed in the ocher brick of its five Mudejar towers. Teruel is considered to have Spain's best examples of Mudejar architecture. The most noteworthy are two towers: the Torre de San MartIn at the Iglesia de San MartIn on Plaza de Perez Prado, and the Torre del Salvador, at the church of the same name on Calle Salvador.

Both date from the 13th century and both are adorned with fancy brickwork and porcelain plaques and tiles. The cathedral, originally built in the 12th century and formally called Santa Marfa de Mediavilla, has a tower first built in the 13th century, rebuilt in the 16th and 17th centuries and again in the 20th century following Spanish Civil War damage; it has a notable Mudejar ceiling.

A particularly grim winter during the civil war in 1937 saw Teruel devastated as the Republicans aided by American and British volunteers gained control, only to lose it a fortnight later to Franco's Nationalists. Los Arcos, the 16th-century aqueduct north of town, remained intact despite the heavy shelling and machine gun fire.

Teruel's main square is the Plaza de Torico, which is marked by an unusual fountain. In its center is a statue of a baby bull with a star between his horns, which has become the town's official symbol (Teruel, the name given the town by the Moors, means bull). Throughout Spain, however, Teruel is best known as the scene of the tragic love affair between Diego de Marcilla and Isabel de Segura, the star-crossed 13th-century Lovers of Teruel, whose story is reminiscent of Romeo and Juliet.

A double grave, unearthed in the 16th century, was presumed to be theirs, and their embracing skeletons now rest in a macabre transparent crypt in a funerary chapel by another of the city's Mudejar towers, that of the 13th-century Iglesia de San Pedro.

Albarracin and things to do

This small medieval village rises in a breath-taking vetical sweep to the snaggle-toothed battlements that guard its rear, With the Rio Guadalaviar (Guadalaviar River) encircling It like a natual moat. The town fortifications date from the late 10th and 11th centuries and illustrate the military style of that time. The village has regained Its medieval character and as a result has been declared a natlnal monu.ment. Tall, half-timbered houses are daubed in rosy plaster, with balconies made of wrought iron or carved wood.

The museum in the chapter house of the 13th-century Catedral de El alvador Just off the Plaza Mayor in the center of town displays a collection of rather worn 16th-century Flemish tapestries, but the life Size trout. carved from rock crystal is more treasured by the villagers.

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Things to do in Tarragona Aragon and Sitges

There are very few undiscovered cities in Europe, but Tarragona may well be one of them. Founded by Iberian tribes, it later came under the control of the Romans, who named it Tarraco. A combination of excavation and restoration has revealed just how important the ancient city was to the Roman Empire for Over 600 years. Julius Caesar, Augustus, and Hadrian lived here for a time; legend has it that Pontius Pilate was born here. The streets of the Parte Alta (Old Quarter, literally, the high area) still run where the Roman streets once lay; yet on top of all this, there is a pleasant, large hill city with medieval areas, long avenues, and views out over the ocean.

The Passeig Arqueologic (Archaeological Promenade) is a walk of about half a mile through the history of Tarragona, around the ancient walls enclosing the highest part of the town. At the base of the walls are the huge Cyclopean boulders laid down by Iberian tribes in the 6th century BC; above these are the Roman walls built in the 3rd century BC, topped by a later Roman stone layer, then a medieval layer, and then English-built ramparts added during the War of the Spanish Succession (1701-1713).

To interpret all this, a personal multilingual guide is a good investment, as pieces of Roman history crop up in the shadows of medieval houses and modern apartment blocks. The Museu Arqueologic on Plaza del Rei exhibits mosaics, capitals, statues, ancient household utensils, and other local finds.

Next to the museum is the Pretori Roma (Roman Praetorium), a 2,000-year-old fortress presumed to have been Pontius Pilate's birthplace. Just below, built into the hillside by the beach, is the Roman amphitheater, where excavations have unearthed the remains of what is believed to be a 2nd or 3rd century Christian church. Just above the ruins is the Balcon del Mediterraneo (Balcony of the Mediterranean), a cliffside promenade offering excellent views of the sea.

A flight of Roman steps leads up to the fortress-like Catedral de Tarragona in the heart of the Parte Alta, built on the site of the former Temple of Jupiter, which became a mosque under Moorish rule. Built in the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, with later additions, the cathedral is a mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Plateresque, and Churrigueresque architecture (the last a particularly ornate style of Baroque associated with a dynasty of architects named Churriguera). It's open daily.

Roman ruins in Tarragona

There are two splendid Roman remains on the outskirts of town. The Pont de les Ferreres aqueduct (or Pont del Diable - Devil's Bridge), some 200 feet long and located 2.5 miles (4 km) from the center via N240, is a twot iered example of Roman engineering from Emperor Trajan's day. The Roda de Bara (Bara's Arch), a 2nd century triumphal arch, is located 12.5 miles (20 km) north of Tarragona via A7.

Things to see in Sitges

A typical Mediterranean seaside resort town, it is popular and classy, lively and cultured, pretty and occasionallytacky. The Iong sandy beach of La Ribera is backed by a promenade lined with flowers and palm trees, cafes and restaurants, with a church at the north end. The Casco Antiguo (Old Quarter) is made up of little lanes and some magnificent old villas, homes of americanos (also known as indianos). Spaniards who made their fortune a century ago in Cuba and elsewhere in Latin America, then retired here.

Gay Sitges

Although the town has expanded over the years, there are few apartment blocks and no towering hotels. To the north, beyond the village of La Punta, a 450-berth yacht harbor at Aiguadol attracts the nautical fraternity. Sitges also has developed a big reputation as a resort for gay men and women, but the town attracts a wide spectrum of visitors singles, couples, and families from all over Europe (as well as the occasional yanqui). In fact, summer weekends are very crowded, especially in late July and August. Consider a visit during the week or out of season (October through May), which can be very pleasant.

Car hire Sitges

To fully discover the sights and sounds of Sitges, hire a car from Barcelona or Girona Airport and take your time to explore this diverse region. Car hire in Sitges can be booked before you fly and cheap car hire at Barcelona and Girona Airports can be found easily online.

Sitges Museums

Sitges has three surprisingly good museums. Museu Cau Ferrat has one of Europe's finest collections of artistic ironwork along with tiled walls and paintings by El Greco and works by two of the four cats referred to in the name of the famous Barcelona eatery Els Quatre Gats: the early 20th century Catalan painter Miquel Utrillo, and Santiago Rusinyol, the writer-artist who was a prime contributor to modernisme in Barcelona and elsewhere in Catalonia; the museum is housed in Rusinyol's former studio.

Next door, and functioning as an annex, is the Museu Maricel de Mar, with sculptures, glass, mosaics, and drawings from the Middle Ages through the Baroque period. The Museu Romantic (Carrer Sant Gaudenci, also known as Casa Llopis, is an 18th-century mansion sumptuously furnished with neoclassical antiques and paintings; there's a doll collection on the upper floor.

Sitges Festivals

During the town's Festa de Corpus Christi celebration (this year on June 15), intricately patterned floral carpets made of over 600,000 carnations cover the cobbled streets. A splendid car rally, featuring vintage automobiles, is held on the first weekend of March.

What to do in Aragon

Since there is no coast in Aragon, many visitors Spaniards included dismiss this region in Spain's northeast between Catalonia and Navarre as a place to be passed through quickly on the way to the mountains or the sea. At one time, however, Aragon was a kingdom that could not be ignored. From the time it was founded in 1035, it systematically enlarged both its territory and its sphere of influence. The adjacent kingdom of Navarre was an early ally, and astute matchmaking forged alliances with the powerful Berenguer family, bringing in the potent House of Barcelona and the region of Catalonia. The biggest matchmaking coup of all was the marriage of King Ferdinand II of Aragon to Queen Isabella of Castile and Leon. Under their rule, Spain completed the Reconquista (centuries long reconquest of the peninsula from the Moors) and extended its reach to the western
hemisphere.

The weather in Aragon

Aragon enjoys the dubious distinction of having Spain's worst climate. Summers are unbearably hot and winters can be extremely bitter. But visitors in late spring or early autumn will have few complaints about the weather, and lots to see and do. There are vineyards and wineries southeast of Zaragoza that welcome visitors and encourage wine tasting, and local fiestas offer a glimpse at the distinctive traditions of the region. Local women don their traditional embroidered aprons and pretty ankle laced slippers for the festivities, and folks dance the odd, jiglike jota.

In September, especially in the southernmost stretches, bull fever hits. Encierros, or the running of bulls through town streets into an enclosure, are certainly not unique to Pamplona. Small local variations occur near harvest-time as part of the observance of patron saints' feast days in the villages close to Teruel.

The route outlined below begins in Pamplona and enters the old kingdom of Aragon at the base of the Pyrenees, then goes south through a dreamscape of strange mounds and past a strategic castle on its way to Huesca. As it continues south, fields give way to wide flats near Zaragoza (traditionally known in English as Saragossa), the only sizable city in this sparsely populated region.

Still farther to the southwest, past Calatayud, stark badlands hold such surprises as the Monasterio de Piedra, a monastery that looks like a colorful mirage in these raw, red hills. Once past a valley of orchards and vineyards, brick towers in geometric Mudejar patterns rise above the arid scrub near Daroca and Teruel, at Aragon's southern extreme (Mudejar refers to the Moorish-influenced Gothic style of the mudejares, Moors who were allowed to remain living under Christian rule). From here, the traveler can opt to head for Valencia, on the coast, or turn inland, toward Cuenca and Madrid. Either way, a detour to the medieval town of Albarracin, guarding the heights to the west, is recommended.

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Airport car hire in Catalonia and Andorra

Catalonia and Andorra are such diverse and intriguing regions, that to fully explore the beaches of the Costa Brava, the cities of Andorra and the wild terrain inbetween, visitors pre-book airport car hire at Barcelona or Andorra before they travel. Cheap airport car hire in Spain is available to pre-book at every airport, including Barcelona, Girona, Alicante, Madrid, Malaga and Murcia.

Every year, the beaches of the Costa Brava attract millions of tourists lured by the promise of inexpensive, funfilled vacations. Most fly to Barcelona or Girona and head straight for the coast, unaware of the traditional Catalan life that continues in villages, on farms, and in small towns throughout the region.

A few miles from the highrise hotels of the best known resorts are glorious rocky coves, with beautiful beaches and little fishing villages. Inland, the countryside ranges from snowcapped mountains to plains baked red by a fierce sun. The rewards for the visitor include grandiose castles and cathedrals, creepy medieval passages, a 900-year old convent, and a surrealistic art museum.

Catalonia, which has long considered itself separate from the rest of Spain and whose language is an ancient Romance tongue quite distinct from Castilian Spanish, was the site of Greek trading posts as early as 500 BC, and was a Roman province by 200 BC. Later under the Visigoths, then the Moors, it was conquered by Charlemagne in AD 801, and, with the demise of the Carolingian Empire, was encompassed by the House of Barcelona at the end of the 9th century.

The first usages of the names Catalunya and Catalan date from the 11th century, when Barcelona was a center of shipbuilding and trade. In the 13th century, under James the Conqueror, Catalonia became a major Mediterranean force, eventually expanding into Sicily, Minorca, Athens, Naples, and Sardinia (in fact, a dialect of Catalan is still spoken along some parts of the Sardinian coast). Catalan power did not last, however.

Less than 50 years after the conquest of Naples in 1423, which marked the peak of Catalan influence, the marriage of Queen Isabella of Castile and King Ferdinand of Aragon began the unification of Spain, and by the end of the 15th century, Catalonia had lost control of its own affairs and was excluded from the lucrative trade with the newly discovered Americas.

Over the centuries, several revolts were suppressed. In the 18th century, after the War of the Spanish Succession (1701-1714), in which Catalonia backed Archduke Charles of Austria (who had promised it independence), the victorious Philip V stringently repressed the would-be nation, banning the use of the Catalan language.

Barcelona Industrial Revolution

By the end of the 19th century, however, the region was thriving, thanks to the burgeoning industrial revolution centered in Barcelona. By 1900, the city symbolized the resurgence of a strong and confident Catalonia when it hosted an international Universal Exhibition. As the arts flourished anew, so did interest in written Catalan (whose former status as a major literary and troubador language had become eclipsed), and poems and novels wound the web of solidarity ever more tightly. At the turn of the century, Barcelona, like Paris, was a hotbed of revolutionary creativity.

Pablo Picasso Malaga

Pablo Picasso came here from his native Malaga at the age of 14; he would spend almost 10 years in the Catalan capital (though he was only one of a vigorous community of artists from Spain and elsewhere). Architects such as Antoni Gaudi were in the vanguard, adorning new city quarters with buildings of astonishing design the local version of Art Nouveau, called modernisme. Later, Joan Miro, Salvador Dalf, Antoni Tapies, and other artists came to the fore. Barcelona even became the capital of a shortlived Catalan government, set up in 1932.

Unfortunately, the potential of Catalan power posed a threat to centralist forces in Madrid, and during the 1936-1939 Spanish Civil War Catalonia backed the losing side, the liberal Republican government. When General Francisco Franco and his fascists took power, Catalonia again was Subjugated; expressions of nationalism such as the teaching of the native language and even just speaking Catalan in public were suppressed. The only place that Catalans could gather in great numbers was at the local soccer club, F.C. Barcelona. Boys were (and still are) signed up at birth to become members of the club that today epitomizes the Catalan spirit, regularly attracting more than 125,000 aficionados to its games.

Following Franco's death in 1975, Catalonia became one of Spain's 17 comunidades autonomas (autonomous communities), enjoying roughly the equivalent of US statehood. At long last, Catalans had their own government, the Generalitat de Catalunya. With the revival of their language, street signs were changed from Spanish to Catalan, and the red and yellow Catalan flag was raised above public and private buildings alike. Throughout the area, roads and public utilities were improved and ancient buildings were restored as signs of Catalan pride.

The differences (sometimes subtle) between Catalan and Castilian Spanish become apparent when looking at a few words and phrases. The Castilian buenos dias (good morning or good day) translates in Catalan as bon dia (pronounced bone deeah). Thank you is gracies (grahseeehs) and goodbye is adeu (ahdayoo).

Catalan food

Catalan gastronomy is part of the resurgence of Catalan culture. Traditional recipes are being revived: rabbit with almonds, partridge with grapes, chicken with lobster, and sea bass with thyme and baked squash. Not surprisingly, the cuisine features fish, fresh from the Mediterranean. The catch may be cooked ala planxa (grilled) or simmered with peas, tomatoes, and peppers in a sarsuela; trout from Pyrenean lakes and rivers is delicious a l'agredolf, with vinegar and honey.

The most famous Catalan specialty, however, is also the simplest: Pa amb tomaquet is a slice of bread rubbed with raw tomato and enlivened with olive oil, salt and pepper.

Lloret de Mar car hire Costa Brava

If you are travelling to Lloret de Mar on the Costa Brava book your airport car hire at Barcelona Airport or Girona Airport before you travel. Airport car hire in Barcelona and Lloret de Mar is much cheaper when you book it before you arrive, and you can get some great car hire deals online.

At Lloret de Mar, the real Costa Brava begins, and the farther north the route goes, the more nature defeats the developers. Pinkish-red rock tumbles down to lime green water, sandy inlets and bays are shaded by dense umbrella pines and cork oaks, and fishing boats can still be found among the yachts. It is an area that has attracted artists to picture-postcard villages, such as Cadaques, still charming despite being discovered. The northern limits of Catalonia today are the Pyrenees, ancient green gray mountains that provided little to sustain villages in the past, but now offer the golden rewards of skiing.

Here, the route crosses the border into the tiny principality of Andorra, with its dramatic mountains, picturesque villages, scenic landscapes, and duty-free shopping. Beyond, the agricultural hinterland beckons, locked between mountain and sea and dotted by walled towns and villages.

Dark with shadows from turrets and towers, arches and cloisters, they conjure up an illusion of medieval life that is broken only by the sound of a motorbike or the sight of rooftop television antennas. In 1993 the andorras voted to adopt a constitution and parliamentary system that all but eliminate their feudal links with Spain and France.

Roads in this region vary from four-lane highways to small but well-paved country roads. Catalonia's equivalent of interstate toll highways, the autopistas, are designated with the letter A.Keep in mind when scheduling visits to churches, museums, historic sites, tourism information offices, and other places of touristic interest that they tend to close for one to three hours at some point between noon and 4 PM each day. On weekends some sites may be open mornings only, and closing days are usually Sundays or Mondays. When possible, it's best to call ahead for exact hours, or have a hotel or tourism office staffer do it for you.

Things to do in Cadaques

This picture-postcard fishing village, made famous by Salvador Dali and. once. the haunt of artists and intellectuals, has remained peacefully quiet, with a harbor, whitewashed houses, narrow lanes, and, in summer, art exhlbitions and a music festival.

Things to do in Figueres

Set in the heart of the Emporda (Ampurdan) plain, Figueres is a small town, best known as the birthplace in 1904 of the late surrealist artist Salvador Dali and the home of the Teatre Museu Dan (Dali Museum and Theater; 28 Pojada Castell). Dali's sculptures here feature such wacky images as a lobster basking on the receiver of a telephone, and a giant woman standing on the hood of a Cadillac.

His paintings offer much of the same: A dog collar doubles as a viaduct, locks of hair curl into fruit, and a chest of drawers with huge, bare human feet ascends into heaven. Dali worked in the house that became the TeatreMuseu DaN from 1974 until 1982, and then lived bedridden in the building's Torre de Galatea (Galatea Tower) until his death in 1989.

The artist is buried in the museum's inner court, beneath a great glass dome. More than 300,000 visitors each year make the museum Spain's second most popular (Madrid's Prado ranks number one).During September, the city throws a corre bou (running of the bulls), and gigantes, nans, and cavallets (papiermache giants, dwarves, and horses) perform dances.

The October 18 Festa de Sant Lluc (Feast Day of St. Luke) is celebrated with a Feria del Dibujo (Fair of Drawings) and a communal dinner called the cena Bohemia. The Museo Comarcal de la Gdrrotxa (Garrotxa District Museum), housed in a 19th-century palace on Carrer Hospici called the Torre Castany, displays a collection of works from Olot's Escola de Belles Arts (Fine Arts School), which was founded in the 19th century and became the workplace of many Catalan artists.

Also admire the elegant modernista facade of the narrow lanes of the town's historic quarter; and the Iglesia de Sant Esteve (St. Stephen's Church), on the Plaza Rector Ferrer in old downtown Olot. The latter, though dating back to at least the 10th century, was rebuilt in neoclassical style in the 18th century; inside there are some interesting chapel carvings and an El Greco painting of Christ carrying the cross.

Where to go in Ripoll

This town deserves greater recognition of its past role as a torchbearer for civilization. A famous Count of Barcelona founded more than one monastery in Catalonia, and established the V Benedictine Monestir de Santa Maria here in the 9th century. By the 11 th century its 246 book library was one of the richest in Christendom, famed throughout Europe as a center of learning and a meeting place for Christian and Moorish philosophers. The town is pretty dreary now, except for the wonderful (but worn) 12th-century carved stone portal of the monastery church, which depicts seven biblical and allegorical scenes.

During the summer classical music recitals often take place in the cloisters. The monastery, located on the Plaza Abad Oliba adjacent to the old town walls, is open daily.

About Andorra

Until 1993 Andorra was a co-principality governed nominally by Spain and France under a feudal system 715 years old (though at the same time it had the oldest continuous parliament in Europe, established in 1419). Today it's a parliamentary co-principality (only 8,000 people are natives; the rest are mainly Spanish and French Immigrants) and a duty-free haven set high in the Pyrenees.

The 1993 Andorran vote to adopt its first constitution and drastically reduce the powers of the co-princes has led to some new trappings of sovereignty, such as a st at the United Nations and some foreign embassies, but to the casual VISI tor little difference will be readily apparent. Andorra’s mere 175 square miles contain a dramatic landscape of scenic lakes, racing rivers, verdant meadows, quaint mountain vlIages: good ski slopes, and the nation's capital city, Andorra la Vella, the highest in Europe (3,000 feet), where modern, high rise buildings almost block out the view of the surrounding peaks.

The history of Andorra

According to tradition, the founding of Andorra (the name is derived from that of a Celtiberian tribe called Andosmos) dates back to the 9th century, when Louis I, the son of Charlemagne, granted a tract of land to the Bishop of Urgell; dual allegiance dates to the 13th century, when later bishops, feeling their rule challenged by French nolemen, agreed to joint control. The country's blue, red, and yellow flag first waved in 1298 at which time Andorrans also accepted an agreement whereby in even numbered years the Spanish bishop would receive the equivalent of $12 as tribute, in addition to six hams, six chickens, and six cheeses.

In odd-numbered years, the French prince (originally the Count of Foix) would be presented with a cash tribute of 960 pesetas. These days, the country's parliament and prime minister run the show completely, with the powers of the co- princes, the French president and the bishop of Urgell greatly reduced. In addition, the past few decades have seen the country jump from medieval feudalism to 20th-century prosperity Andorra is a major banking center and from a strictly agricultural country to a model of modernization and growth.

Also as a result of the 1993 vote, for the first time an income tax was put in place. One main, winding road cuts diagonally through Andorra,. Southwest to northeast, and along it traffic creeps in both directions, especially on weekends and during Spanish and French national holidays. At the borders, traffic jams of cars lined up to return to Spain and France can be monumental, caused by conscientious Spanish and French customs agents assessing the value of the duty-free purchases.

The Pyrenees may not be as dramatic or even as high as the Alps, but they are wider and far more rugged (which explains why Andorra remained a mostly medieval community until this century). Due to its position the country has an excellent climate of dry air, brisk in winter and fresh in summer.

Most of its villages are deep in the low valley, but in winter, some of Europe's best inexpensive skiing can be found at the resorts of Pas de fa Casa, Orau Roig, Soldeu, Tarter, Pals, Arinsal, and Arcalis. In June, the high valleys, as yet untainted by developers, unveil some of the rarest, yet most abundant, wildflowers in Europe; carpets of narcissi, orchids, and iris stretching for hundreds of yards are a common sight.

In terms of historic sights, there are some attractive bridges arching across rushing streams, as well as a few tall, square bell towers on Romanesque churches. In Andorra la Vella, the 16th-century Casa de la Vall, which houses the governing Consell (Council) General, is worth a visit.

However, the main attraction in Andorra is shopping, although in many cases the prices are only attractive to the heavily-taxed French and the Spanish, thousands of whom cross the border daily to stock up on cigarettes, liquor, electronic equipment, leather goods, and fashions. The best stores are found in Andorra la Vella, today a consumerist strip whose main streets bustle like the aisles of Bloomingdale's. To recommend one store over another is futile, since most shops have standard prices and stock only the most marketable merchandise.

The sights of Andorra

A passage, which runs Some 400 yards parallel to Carrer Major and underneath the old houses, is decorated with black cats, moons, witches' brooms, owls, and cobwebs, but is a spooky enough experience even without these embellishments. Back into the daylight of the Plaza Major, which is a small square with a row of gargoyle-like faces holding up the balconies of the 18th-century Ajuntament (Town Hall), wander to the Caner Major to see the house where Catalonia's government, the Generalitat de Catalunya, was established in 1359, and where, about a century later, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella's marriage contract was signed.

Cervera literally has been bypassed by the 20th century (the main road between Barcelona and Zaragoza tunnels under the barrio antic or old quarter), but it was still in the mainstream in the 18th and 19th centuries, when it was the site of a Castilian/Bourbon university.
Cervera is also known for its annual Crist Misteri de Passio (Passion Play), some 500 years old. A special theater was built for the crowds that flock to see the play, enacted by over 500 local citizens in March and April.

En Route from Cervera The main road to Tarrega 12 km away, is fast and straight, but Tarrega itself can be a bottleneck. In the center of town, take the turn for C240 south toward Montblanch (Montblanc) and Tarragona and follow it through fields and vineyards, with intriguing villages off to either side, some with castles, some with churches. Just beyond Belltall, there is a sharp rise and the land drops away, revealing a lovely panoramic view across the plains of Cona de Barbera. Look for the sign down the hill, off to the right, for the town of Vallbona de les Manges, about 7 miles (12 km) from Tarrega.

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Things to do in Oviedo Spain

Founded as Ovetum, this town developed around the Monasterio de San Vicente in the 8th century; located 17 miles (28 km) from the coast, today it is the capital of the Principality (and autonomous region) of Asturias and it forms a geographic triangle with Gijon and Aviles (where the region's airport, the Aeropuerto de Asturias, is located).

Driving into Oviedo, surrounded by heavy industry, can be depressing; but the city is the least grim and industrial of the three, has the most interesting Casco Viejo (Old Town), and claims genuine historical significance. Early in the 9th century, Oviedo succeeded as the capital of the tiny kingdom of Asturias, the lone Christian outpost of otherwise Muslim Spain. A millennium of history, from the 8th to the 18th centuries, is represented by dozens of buildings in the Casco Viejo, including a handful of remarkable pre-Romanesque structures whose styles were 200 years before their time.

Oviedo Cathedral Spain

The Casco Viejo spreads around the 15th to 16th-century cathedral which has a marvelous Gothic tower, a charming cloister, one of Spain's most beautiful altarpieces, and a fine museum that houses, among other things an ivory cross. But the real treasure is the tiny holy chamber, built by Alfonso II in the 9th century to house reIics rescued from Toledo when it fell to the Moors, and altered in the 12th century. The chamber, which was incorporated into the later cathedral (and which was damaged by an explosion in 1934 and rebuilt after the Spanish Civil War), contains a startling array of priceless objects, including the gold-covered oak cross carried by Pelayo in the battle of Covadonga.

Behind the cathedral is the Museo Arqueologico Provincial, one of the most important in Spain, with collections from the Paleolithic period onward. The Oficina de Turismo de Oviedo is in front of the cathedral at 6 Plaza de la Catedral . Two minutes from Oviedo's Casco Viejo is the beautiful Parque de San Francisco, a huge square of gardens, trees, fountains, and romantic ruins of an old convent - a pleasant refuge from the urban sprawl, right in the city center.

A little farther off the beaten track is one of Asturias' most notable monuments, the 9th century Visigothic Iglesia de San Julitin de los Prados (Church of St. JuJian of the Fields, Santullano to the locals) in the northeast corner of town, which offers somewhat deteriorated murals based on Roman and Byzantine models. Two miles (3 km) from the city, within 250 yards of each other on El Monte Naranco (Naranco Hill), are two churches that are probably the finest examples of Asturian preRomanesque art.

Iglesia de Santa Marfa del Naranco and Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo were both built by Ramiro I during his short 9th-century reign, and the former in particular is regarded as exemplary. Originally built as a palace, it included baths and attached living quarters until it was converted to a church during the 12th century.

A rectangular, two-floor building, it has a complex structure of barrel vaulting with reinforced arches resting on a system of blind arches. From the open-air upper floor, huge windows offer wide views. Other interesting features include the intricately chiseled stonework depicting hunting scenes, the Byzantine-style capitals, and the open porticoes at both ends, a revolutionary concept at the time. San Miguel de Lillo, just up the road, is a narrow, elevated building its height is three times the width of its central nave.

Aviles information

Dominated by heavy industry, Aviles is a major iron and steel producing center (as well as the site, just a bit out of town, of the Aeropuerto de Asturias, with flights to most major Spanish cities. The few historical landmarks it possesses are swamped by housing projects or smoke-stack scenarios, and the sea, only 2 miles (4 km) away, is one of Spain's pollution nightmares.

But the city does have a Casco Viejo (Old Town) aroud Galiana, La Ferreria, and Rivero Streets with several medieval mansions and a few 12th-century churches. The Iglesia de San Nicolas has three 14th and 15th-century chapels, and in front of the Iglesia de San Francisco there is an ornate 17th-century fountain. On Easter Sunday and Monday, the city celebrates the Fiesta del Bollu, when everybody dons folk costume to eat bollus de Pascua (Easter buns), drink white wine, and dance to traditional music.

Luarca Spain

tucked into an S-shaped cove with a delightful bay and fishing port, unrushed and unpretentious, Luarca is a maze of cobbled streets, stone stairways, and beautiful walks. The simple, colorful flower pots that decorate the whitewashed harbor walls are as near as the place gets to ostentation, except for the stupendously ornate cemetery, with marble burial niches and grand family tombs, which is worth some attention.It's located just before the lighthouse and Atalaya chapel, a 20-minute walk above the town.

Another excellent stroll begins by the bridge that crosses the town's small river, where a stone stairway leads up to the Ermita (Hermitage). While this structure is nothing exceptional, walk 10 minutes beyond it and you'll come to an old hamlet crammed with ancient herreos (granaries). Luarca has a fine beach, and it offers one of the last chances before Ribadeo to enjoy an evening of cider with the locals in a traditional Asturian Tavern.

The Pilgrim´s Route Santiago de la Compostela

The Camino de Santiago
The unlikely discovery of what were purported to be the remains of St. James the Apostle (Santiago in Spanish) in 813 made the town of Santiago de Compostela the third most important pilgrimage site in Christendom after Jerusalem and Rome, and turned St. James into Matamoros (the Moorslayer), a potent rallying symbol for Christians during the Reconquista (reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula from the Moors). During the first half of the 12th century, Aymeric Picaud, a French priest, wrote five volumes of stories connected with St. James, including a detailed guide for pilgrims on the journey to Santiago.

The pilgrims, identified by the scallop shell (the emblem of St. James) pinned to their cloaks and by their floppy felt hats, believed that completion of the long and arduous journey excused them from half of their allotted time in purgatory. They came from all over Europe and represented a wide spectrum of languages and cultures. The Pilgrims' Route, as it developed over the centuries, provides one of the most concentrated collections of Romanesque churches and Gothic cathedrals in the world, and the art decorating these religious monuments is a brilliant merging of Moorish, French, Italian, and Spanish Christian influences.

Today the Pilgrims' Route has been designated a cultural Route of Europe by the European Union. It officially begins at the Tour St. Jacques in Paris, descends via Vezelay and Le Puy to the Pyrenees, and crosses into Spain via the Roncesvalles Pass. The Spanish portion runs some 506 miles (810 km) through the north of the country. Upon entering Spain near Roncesvalles in the region of Navarre, the route passes through Pamplona, Logrono in La Rioja, and Burgos and Leon in the region of CastileLeon on its way to the Galician capital, Santiago de Compostela.

Marked by crucifixes during medieval days, it is designated today by modern blue and yellow signs showing the scallop shell of St. James. It crosses the extremes of Spanish geography and climate, beginning high in the Pyrenees, then dropping into the fertile foothills and crossing the wide, dry, open plains, before rising again over the mountains separating Leon and Galicia and winding through the hilly, lush green landscape of the Spanish northwest.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Modern pilgrims still follow the route primarily to view the massive cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and its shrine. Indeed, to round the last corner and come face to face with the cathedral's golden granite Baroque facade and two soaring towers is, as travel writer Jan Morris maintains one of the great moments of travel. , Although 3,000 to 4,000 pilgrims still arrive on foot each year (those who travel on foot, horseback, or by bicycle are entitled to three days' free food and lodging in Santiago, and often receive free room and board along the way, as well), for most visitors the journey can be made more Comfortably.

In addition to cars and buses, the splendid luxury train El Transcantabrico covers the North Atlantic coast from Santiago to San Sebastian via 0 Ferrol, Luarca, Oviedo, Covadonga, Santillana del Mar, Santander, and Bilbao, traversing the first and last stages of the pilgrimage by bus.Keep in mind when planning your itinerary that museums, churches, and other places of touristic interest are generally open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM and then again from around 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 PM; schedules may change with the seasons. Some museums may be open mornings only, and weekend hours are usually also shorter than on weekdays. Closing days tend to be Sundays or Mondays.

Estella Spain

Once the seat of the Kings of Navarre, this major stopping point on the Pilgrims' Route is packed with churches. The Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rua (Church of St. Peter of the Way) dominates the entire town. Built during the 12th century, it is Estella's oldest church. It has a massive portal, and its interior features a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic influences.

But its real gem is the small cloister tucked between the church and the towering cliff; its two remaining rows of columns are topped by some of the most intricately carved capitals in Europe, some depicting the life of Christ, but others portraying mythological subjects, with scenes of couples kiss ingvirtually unheard of in Catholic settings.

Camino de Santiago Astorga

Beautifully situated on a mountain spur 2,850 feet above sea level Astorga served as a staging point for the final third of the Pilgrims' Rout to Santlago. The Romans knew the city as Asturica Augusta, and Pliny the Elder descnbed it as magnificent. The Catedral de Santa Maria on the Plaza de la Catedral was built during the 13th century on the site of an 11 th century church; it has bell towers similar to those of Leon's cathedral as well as similar massive stained glass windows.

Its museum houses nteworthy works of medieval religious art. The cannonballs on the staircase are remnants of the Peninsular War against Napoleon. The four-panel painting of San Antonio Abad is worth a close look. The museum is open daily; admission charge.

Also visit the Palacio Episcopal (Episcopal Palace) on the Plaza de la Catedral. It's a fanciful 19th to 20thcentury mock medieval creation of soaring towers, circular staircases, and a light filled interior. The work of Antoni Gaudi´s most imaginative, spectacular creation outside Barcelona, it was commissioned by the bishop, a fellow Catalan after a fire destroyed its predecessor in 1886, but wasn't finished until 1909. The first two floors now house the Museo de los Caminos, a museum dedicated to the Pilgrims' Route, with an extensive collection of statues, paintings, notebooks, and journals from the heyday of the pilgrimage.

Villafranca del Bierzo Camino de Santiago

The town owes its founding to French pilgrims, who used the area as a stopover during the 11th century. The medieval buildings here include manor houses that line the famous Calle del Agua (Water Street), which was known to pilgrims as one of the route's most beautiful streets.
The Iglesia de Santiago, a typical example of 12th-century Romanesque architecture, boasts an excellent Puerta del Perdon (Portal of Forgiveness) opening onto the route. Exhausted pilgrims, unable to reach Santiago de Compostela, could pass through it into the church and receive the same indulgences as those given in Santiago.

The town's other churches all worth a visit include San Juan en San Fiz, a well-preserved Romanesque building; the 16th to 18th-century Santa Maria de Cluniaco, laid out in the form of a Latin cross; and San Nicolas, a 17th-century church that was part of a Jesuit college.

O Cebreiro Santiago de la Compostela

The ancient village of 0 Cebreiro (in Galician its Castilian rendering is EI Cebrero), not far from the Pedrafita do Cebreiro pass as you head west on the Pilgrims' Route, has a church and a pilgrims' hospice that were constructed as early as the 9th century, as well as some old reconstructed dry stone huts of Celtic origin. The Iglesia de Santa Marfa la Real became famous following an alleged miracle that was reported around 1300.

A priest of little faith supposedly was saying mass for a single peasant, who had struggled through wind and deep snow to get there. Suddenly, as the priest was musing that it was silly for anyone to brave such weather for only a bit of wine and bread, the host turned into flesh and the wine into blood.

Word of this miracle of the Holy Eucharist spread throughout Europe, and the chalice in which it is said to have occurred is still kept in the church. Also in town is a Museo Etnografico (Ethnographic Museum), housed in several converted circular stone huts of Celtic origin called pallozas.

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Things to do in Bilbao and Santander

The green hills that are visible from any part of Bilbao make it hard to believe that this is Spain's sixth-largest city and the country's main port, with approximately 400,000 inhabitants (1.4 million in greater Bilbao). Standing on the central Puente Arenal (Arenal Bridge) that spans the Rio Nervion (Nervion River) and looking at the glorious Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and its utterly rural backdrop, you'd think you were in some middling river town. But look again. The Gran Via, Bilbao's chief avenue, boasts gleaming skyscrapers, huge department stores, and elegant clothing shops. And a train ride along the banks of the Nervion estuary to the Bahia de Vizcaya passes scores of dockyard cranes, shipyards, warehouses, factories, wharves, and iron and steel foundries.

Bilbao's smokestack industries are in decline, and the air of industrial decay and political tension, along with the drab apartment blocks and frequent rain, make the city less than a touristic glamour spot. But Bilbao residents are renowned for their friendliness, and the city is packed with good places to eat and drink.

Founded in 1300, Bilbao didn't fully flourish until the 19th-century Industrial Revolution, when Britain became its main trading partner. Even today the city reflects a strong British influence, seen in dress, architecture, and even in the long list of English managers in charge of the local soccer team, Athletic Bilbao, traditionally one of Spain's top three. Touristic interest centers on the Casco Viejo (Old Quarter) which combines numerous fine clothing outfitters, specialty stores, traditional Basque restaurants, and bars. It is here that locals indulge in two Bilbao customs. One is the Chiquiteo, the drinking in rapid succession of small wines or beers - no more than a mouthful each at several bars in double-quick time.

The other is a copa y puro, the sipping of a liqueur, usually brandy or an anise-based brew called patxaran, and the smoking of a cigar after a hearty lunch (women as well as men follow both customs). To give either tradition a try, visit any of the bars on the Plaza Nueva.

St James Cathedral Bilbao

The grandiose Catedral de Santiago (St. James Cathedral), in the heart of the Casco Viejo, has a cloister built in 1404, although the church was largely rebuilt in the 16th century after a fire. Nearby is the Plaza Nueva; built in 1830 and enclosed by 64 arches, it houses a flea market on Sunday mornings. Gorostiaga is a curious Casco Viejo shop where seven generations of the same family have been making hats since 1857; the specialty is the famous Basque beret, or txapela, although trilbys and Panama hats are also made. The Teatro Arriag in the Plaza Arriaga next to the Puente Arenal just before was built in 1890. Recently renovated, Its jolly Imitation French architecture provides a contrast to Bilbao's neoclassical style.

Two museums are worth a visit. The Museo Historico, Arqueologico, Etnolograflco Vasco (Basque Historical, Archaeologic, and Ethnographic Museum) has a special room devoted to the commercial life of Bilbao since 1500. It's closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays; no admission charge. The ivy-covered Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts), in the English-style Parque Dona Casilda Iturrizar, features an extensive collection of Spanish and foreign paintings and sculpture from the Romanesque period to the early 20th century. EI Greco, Velazquez, Ribera, Ribalta, Zurbaran, and Goya are represented, as are modern artIsts from Gauguin to Sorolla. The museum is closed Mondays; Sunday hours.

Santander Information

A trading and shipping port founded more than 1,000 years ago and once called Puerto de San Emeterio, today's Santander is a kind of staid San Sebastian, having tried without complete success since the early 1900s to rival the Basque resort. Although it was the royal summer residence from 1913 to 1930, the town never quite knocked San Sebastian off the throne as the queen of northern Spanish resorts, perhaps due to its greater distance from France, to the fact that its beach and bay are not quite as stunning as Playa de la Concha, or to the terrible fire that destroyed much of it in 1941. The fire left Santander essentially modern and dull - albeit with a large number of gardens (by Spanish city standards), as well as some very pleasant beaches.

The first surprise, for those entering the city from the east, is the still standing bronze statue of the dictator Francisco Franco on horseback in the aptly named Plaza del Generalisimo opposite the Ayuntamiento (City Hall). Activity in the city center revolves around the porticoed Plaza Porticada, or Plaza de Velarde, where the Oficina Regional de Turismo is found (there's also an Oficina Municipal de Turismo in the Jardines de Pereda.

One block towards the bay from the plaza is the very unattractive cathedral, most of whose architecture dates from the 17th century though it started existence as an 8th-century abbey church; it was also largely reconstructed after the 1941 fire. It does, however, contain a beautiful high altar and the tiny 13th-century Cripto de Cristo (Crypt of Christ), the city's oldest monument (an illustrious local son, the 19th-century literary critic Marcelino Menendez y Pelayo, is buried here).

The Paseo de Pereda, which begins at the seaward end of the Plaza Porticada, is a broad, elegant promenade embellished with palm trees and the huge, red arum flowers that dot the city. The Palacete del Embarcadero, a small art gallery located on the Paseo de Pereda near the wharf, is worth a visit; there's an admission charge. Continue along Paseo de erda to the Santander dock, from which ferries to Plymouth, England, sail twice a week.

Farther along, past lines of five-story glass balconied houses that escaped the 1941 fire, is Puerto Chico, where dockland Santander ends (the town was a booming port from the 12th to the 16th centuries). The first building here is the Real Club Maritimo (Royal Maritime Club), which rises out of the sea on Concrete columns in the shape of a ship's upper decks. Beyond it, the road turns away from the sea for a while then steps lead down to the first great local beach, Playa de la Magdalena. Clean and placid, it has a 100-foot backdrop of cliffs and trees (the ivy-covered structure above belongs to the royal tennis society, the Real Sociedad de Tenis).

At the end of the beach and up the hill is the English-style Palacio de la Magdalena, a gift from the town to Alfonso XIII, which was turned into the Universidad Intemacional Menendez y Pelayo after the king abdicated in 1931.

On the other side of the Magdalena promontory is a mile-long beach, Playa el Sardinero, dominated by the lavish 1914 Belle Epoque Gra Casino at Plaza Italia. One of only two casinos on the coast (the other is at San Sebastian). Across the bay are the villages of Pedrefia and Somo, both with huge, sand-duned beaches. Pedrefia is the birthplace of golf pro Sevenano Ballesteros and home to the golf course where he developed his skills, the Real Golf Club de Pedrefia.

There are two museums: the Museo de Bellas Artes, which can claim a Goya, and the Museo de la Prehistoria (Museum of Prehistory) whIch has major collections from the Upper Paleolithic period. The best resaurants are loated along Calle Hernan Cortes, in the vicinity of Puerto Chico.

The Santander Festival

The annual Festival Intenacional de Santander (InternatIonal Festival of Santander) with its program of music and dance is one of Spain's most prestigious, held each August at the Palacio de Festivales (Palace of FestIvals), a large, multipurpose indoor arena near the center of town.
EI Capricho de Gaudi This modernist folly has been restored and is now a deluxe restaurant specializing in Basque and international cuisine. There is a bar lounge on the top floor open only for private parties and a gift shop on the main floor.

Llanes Asturias

Llanes is the capital of eastern Asturias, and the town has a delightful barrio antiguo (old quarter), much of which is being restored; the gentle feel of a typical Asturian fishing port; and about 30 remote and very clean beaches, including Celorio, and Barros, within a few miles to either side. In the past decade or so Llanes has become the preferred vacation spot for several well-known Spanish government ministers. The town is also famous for its August Fiesta de San Roque, a daylong binge of folklore dancing in traditional costumes.

Llanes spreads upward from the tiny sheltered harbor at the foot of picturesque green hills and still retains chunks of its 13th-century ramparts. Llanes is yet another coastal town with a magnificent church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This Iglesia de Santa Maria is part 14th and part 15th-century, part Romanesque and part Gothic. The port Ribadsella is a good base for Picos de Europa excursions, Ribadesella offers a magnificent beach, great hotels, rustic eateries, a fabulous cave with prehistoric paintings, and sidrerias (Asturian cider bars).

Car hire in Bilbao Santander and Asturias

Unless you want to spend a day sampling the local cider in Asturias, the best way to get around Bilbao, Santander and Asturias is to hire a car from the airport. Pre-booked car hire is cheap and you will be guaranteed easy pick ups and drop offs when you arrive at your destination to save you time and hassle. Car hire can be pre-booked at the airport in Bilbao or Santander, and low cost car rentals are available throughout the year.

The Descenso International del Sella

It is also home to the world's premier canoe festival, the Descenso Internacional del Sella (International Descent of the Sella River), held annually since 1930 on the first Saturday of August. It attracts 800 participants from many countries and over 200,000 festive spectators, who join in all-night revelry after following the canoeists 11 miles down the river from Arriondas. However, the whole town shuts down during the winter months.

The town straddles the broad Sella estuary, crossed by a long, narrow bridge that is actually the N632 highway, from which the locals can be seen fishing for bass, sargo, and red mullet. The port side of town brims with bars, restaurants, and shops. The other side is residential, but includes the beach, flanked by two headlands, and the best promenade hotels and mansions, glorious with their creeping purple bougainvillea. At the beach end of the bridge is an oddlooking Oicina de Turismo closed Saturday afternoons and Sundays in summer; closed completely in winter), occupying a converted herreo, one of the ancient granaries that dot the Asturian countryside.

A few hundred yards from the tourist office is the Cueva de Tito Bustillo, a cave named for the man who discovered it in 1968. Inside are 15,000 to 20,000 yearold cave paintings that have been pronounced the equal of those at Altamira and France's Lascaux. A vaulted niche in one gallery has shield shaped red marks, believed to represent the female vulva in an invocation to fertility. In another gallery are a large red horse, deer, reindeer, and a purple and black horse, many over 5 feet tall.

The FEVE Railway Ribadesella

Ribadesella is also a good place from which to ride on the FEVE raIlway. Take this classic rural train, hich offers good glimpses of the sea, four stops east to the hamlet of Vdlahormes, and walk a mIle past cornfields and a tiny chapel to the deserted beach. A half-hour stroll along AS263 and you'll find the station, at Nueva, from which to catch the tram back to Ribadesella. Another pleasant excursion is to drive west of Ribadesell along N632 about 14 miles (22 km) to Colunga.

Turn down A26 and drive 2 miles (3 km) to the delightful fishing village of Lastes, whose steep, cobbled streets rise dizzyingly above the old harbor. A final treat before leaving Ribadesella is a taste of the local Sidra in any of the quayside sidrerias, the waiter will pour the first glass from a bottle raised as high as the right arm can reach, while the left hand holds the glass low at an acute angle.

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Things to do in the north of Spain

The Romans could never fully conquer the area, the Visigoths were plagued by perpetual uprisings, the Moors suffered their first setback here as they tried to sweep across the Iberian Peninsula in the 8th century and the most fearsome invaders of them all, 20th-century tourists, have so far managed to establish only a handful of beachheads. While the rest of Spain fell under the influence of one marauder after another, the country's northern coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, remained determinedly independent.

A Spanish saying has it that in summer, the rich go south and the wise go north. For south, read constant and often blistering sun, packed beaches, and non-stop flamenco-flavored discotheques. The northern coast, on the other hand, offers thickly forested mountainsides, intensely green hills, and lush valleys and meadows to offset the stormy sea and the wave-battered cliffs.

The entire coast from San Sebastian, just 12 miles (19 km) from the French border, to Ribadeo, 272 miles (435 km) to the west, is prone to dampness, mist, fog, a fine drizzle called sirimiri by the Basques, and just plain rain. But when the sun shines, the numerous beaches equal the best of the south. Many of these sandy stretches are isolated and remote, protected by rugged cliffs, just as this area and its peoples have been throughout history.

The Atlantic coast of Spain

Things to see in Santander and Bilbao
The Atlantic coastline edges four traditional regions practically distinct nations unto themselvesthat in the post-Franco era have become four of Spain's 17 comunidades autopnomas (autonomous communities). Our route covers three of them, ending just inside the fourth. It starts out at San Sebastian, the queen of northern Spain's beach resorts, in the thick of Basque Country. Westward beyond the bustling industrial port of Bilbao, the route leaves behind the Costa Vasca (Basque Coast) and enters Cantabria, perhaps the most Spanish of the northern regions, with its attractive coastal capital of Santander. Still farther west, the route reaches Asturias, a gorgeous, little-visited, emerald-colored region with a coast known, appropriately, as the Costa Verde (Green Coast). It then ends just inside Galicia, another culturally distinct region steeped in history and rich in folklore.

The Basque people

If the Basques are a mystery to many Spaniards today, they completely stump anthropologists, as well as philologists trying to ascertain the origin of the Basque language, euskera. It has no apparent linguistic connection with any other language, and nobody knows where the extremely complex tongue came from, but it certainly predates the arrival in Europe of the Indo-European languages some 3,000 years ago. A sampling: Egunon (pronounced eygoonawn) is Basque for good morning or good day; goodbye is agur (ahgoor); thank you is eskerrik asko (ehskehreek ahsko).

Recent research has tried, with little success, to link euskera to European languages such as those still spoken in the Caucasus and among the Berbers of North Africa. Indeed, there is considerable evidence that the Basques are the last surviving descendants of Europe's aboriginal population.

Although the Romans did occupy parts of the Basque region, they had a difficult time of it. Plutarc and others described a poor, warlike people with strong tribal features. The Basque Country was the last area of southern and western Europe to be converted to Christianity, and one of the last corners of Europe to be civilized. Many Basques still live in isolated homesteads of fewer than 30 people.

These abodes are flat-roofed, Alpine-style farmhouses known as caserios where occupants sleep upstairs but share the downstairs with their animal;. The Basques always had a highly individualistic way of life and they were renowned as North Sea whalers until the 18th century and they had little use for central control, especially from outside the region.

Not only did this attitude cause potential invaders to leave them alone, but it also meant that they enjoyed a long tradition of great personal freedom at a time when most of Europe lived in serfdom. By the 15th century, these liberties were enshrined in the fueros, a body of ancient laws and privileges that were taken away from the Basques in Spain only well into the 19th century.

The region's mysterious language, immunity from invasion, life in remote settlements with little or no central government, and the freedoms of the fueros all help to explain the current political turmoil, in which Basques have been seeking greater self-rule within the Spanish state. Though Spain's post-Franco constitution gives them a good deal of autonomy, more radical separatists still seek total independence.

Toward this end, since the 1960s a group called ETA (the euskera acronym for Basque Homeland and Liberty) has waged a campaign of violence that has in recent years lost much of its impetus and popular support. Terrorism in Euskadi (the Basque Country) today is a relative rarity, and not considered a danger to foreign tourists.

Basque history culture and language

The Basques are the most indomitable of all the Spanish peoples as well as perhaps the most fun-loving of those in the north. They enjoy a reputation for being the biggest drinkers and the heartiest eaters in Spain, and for having the best food, whether it's traditional fare or the new Basque cuisine that is all the rage (the restaurants in Spain rated highest by the Michelin guide are Basque).

Local specialties include such distinctive dishes as cogote de merluza (baked hake's head), kokotxas y almejas (hake gills and clams in a lemon, oil, and parsley sauce), angulas (tiny silvery elvers, or young eels), bacalao al pil pil (cod in a Bilbao-style green sauce ), porrusalda (leek, cod, and potato stew), marmitako (fresh tuna, tomato, and potato stew), and alubias (beans).

Equally distinctive are the folk traditions of the region. Rural sports are an integral part of the Basque culture. The only Basque sport widely known outside the region is pelota (related to jai alai), but others include wood chopping, grass scything, rock dragging by bulls, and ram butting (these, not surprisingly, have not caught on elsewhere). Any fiesta will include traditional dances such as the aurreska which honors the Basque flag, or ikurriiia and the espatadanza (sword dance).
They are accompanied by the simple music of the txistu (a three-holed tin whistle), and a small drum. Another musical tradition the Basques share with Galicians, Asturians, and other northerners is that of the gaita (bagpipe); the local version of the instrument produces a music more haunting and mournful than the Scottish variety.

Things to do in Cantabria

Cantabria is the name of the piece of Spain that separates the Basque Country from Asturias. The earliest evidence of human settlement in Spain, dating from about 25,000 to 30,000 years ago, has been found around Santander, the capital of Cantabria. The culture of these early settlers, who crossed the Pyrenees from southern France, peaked around 15,000 BC, which is approximately the date of several caves with prehistoric paintings located at Altamira, near Santander. The region also has numerous Roman remains.

The Picos de Europa Spain

Westward, and only 25 miles (40 km) inland, are some of Spain's most remarkable mountains, the Picos de Europa. These mighty, craggy peaks rise giddily from the Bahia de Vizcaya (Bay of Biscay) to form a buttress that divides Cantabria from Asturias. On the western fringe of the Picos is the Parque Nacional de Covadonga. The Battle of Covadonga in AD 718 marked the beginning of what the Spanish call the Reconquista, the reconquest of Iberia even though the Moors wouldn't be completely driven out of Spain until 1492.

After the battle, the tough Asturians, who earlier had fiercely resisted the Romans and were subdued only after a 10-year war (2919 BC), turned their attention to building churches and hermitages while the rest of Spain skirmished with the Moorish armies. Many of these early Asturian or pre-Romanesque buildings still stand today, constituting the best and most complete series of 9th-century edifices in Europe.

Asturias northern Spain

The Reconquista pushed the Moors southward, and by 914 Asturias had gained control of Leon, most of Galicia, and the north of Portugal. This power was ceded only when the Asturian kings moved their. court out from Oviedo and made Leon the capital of a combined Asturias Leon. In 1388, Asturias became a principality; ever since then, the heir to the Spanish throne has received the title of Prince of Asturias (just as the Prince of Wales is next in line to rule Britannia).

Much of Asturias today consists of red-roofed villages with their characteristic honeos (granaries built on stone supports several feet high) scattered over the green carpets of the valleys and meadows. But the storm ridden sea is the real spectacle here, and the uneven coastline exposes increasingly dramatic wave battered cliffs as the route moves toward Galicia. Local food matches the local character: strong blue Cabrales (sheeps-milk cheese, named for the eastern Asturian region of Cabrales), and a hearty stew of broad beans, pork, and sausages called fabada, are downed with fizzy, alcoholic sidra (cider), the drink of Asturias (also used in cooking, as in morcilla a la sidra, or blood sausage with cider).

Such a meal may be accompanied by the music of the gaita. Asturias also has several dialects related to Spanish, collectively known asbable (pronounced bahblay). Spanish pequeno (small) becomes piquenu, padre (father) gets shortened to pa, and the coastal city of Gijon is Xuon. Bable however, is heard mostly in the countryside.

Anyone driving the entire route across Spain's northern Atlantic coast including the two or three inland excursions, should allow several weeks to do it justice. Most of it features fine scenery, sea, fishing villages, beaches and mountains but there is also the bustle and shopping of Bilbao, Santander, Oviedo, and Gijon. From Bilbao westward into Galicia, the route is paralleled by a narrow gauge railway line that is a travelers' dream.

The FEVE line is slow and cumbersome (the state-owned RENFE rail network has long since taken over as the region's primary means of ground transportation), but it skirts beaches, runs across estuaries and through limestone gorges, and is often surrounded by forest and hills.

For a more comfortable ride, catch the Santiago de Compostela San Sebastian luxury train called El Transcantabrico, which takes a leisurely eight days to travel the northern Atlantic coast. A bus leaves from Santiago for a Ferrol, where passengers board the train, complete with a full service restaurant. The excursion (from west to east) includes guided tours of Ribadeo, Oviedo, Cangas de Onfs, Covadonga, Santillana del Mar, Comillas, Santander, and Bilbao.

San Sebastian and Galicia

The main road joining San Sebastian and Galicia has recently been improved, but construction continues, and an occasional rough stretch can slow down part of your trip. Maps can barely keep up with improvements (don't be surprised if your car rental map is out of date), so ask questions before you get under way. Note that some street names in the Basque Country may use the word kale (street) in addition to or instead of the Spanish calle.

Airport Car hire in Galicia Bilbao Santander and Gijon Spain

If you prefer to do your own exploring in Galicia, Bilbao, Santander or Gijon, you can book a car at your destination airport in Spain before you fly. Car hire in Spain is reasonable and you can take advantage of some great offers and 50% cheaper deals when you pre-book your rental car before you travel.

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Saturday, February 6, 2010

Driving routes around Spain

The Iberian Peninsula is a land that long has been irresistible to travelers and explorers. As far back as 650 BC, foreigners (mostly in the form of invaders back then) were arriving in Spain and discovering its diversity and individuality.

During the Age of Discovery, beginning in the 15th century, numerous explorers, sailing under the flag of Spain, went in search of other lands to call their own. Spaniards take enormouS pride in their country, and today travelers from all over the world come to enjoy (not conquer) Spain's glorious beaches, challenging mountains, and breathtaking countryside. Until the 1960s, Spain was considered the perfect destination for adventurous travelers, since public transportation was limited and primitive at best, and accommodations for visitors were far below other Western European standards.

Modern Spain

If hitchhiking and sleeping on the beach were your cup of tea, then this was the place to come. But with expanded air travel, improved train and bus services, and increased interest in European travel among young and old alike, Spain became an inexpensive and popular choice for travelers. As interest grew, facilities for the traveler improved (although visitors today will no longer find prices to be much lower than those in other Western European countries).

Spanish culture

Spain's diversity of culture is a direct result of numerous invasions by other countriesand its varied topography provide today's traveler with a colorful journey, filled with limitless options for side trips far off beaten paths. From Algeciras to Zaragoza, this land still offers plenty of places to tilt at your own windmills.

Roads are generally in good repair in Spain, unless otherwise noted, and with few exceptions each route is designed to take between three and five days. We have even included several delightful day trips from the capital city of Madrid. And if at any point you tire at the wheel, it's possible to break up your drive with an occasional ride on a rural railway. Each route includes numerous sightseeing highlights, suggested activities, and places to eat and stay.

Car hire in Spain

If you are planning a driving tour of Spain, book cheap car hire from your Spanish airport before you fly. Cheap airport car hire in Spain can be pre-booked which will save you plenty of time and hassle when you arrive, plus you get to tour around Spain in comfort and style. Maps of Spain are also available free from most car hire pick up points in Malaga Airport, Barcelona Airport, Murcia Airport, Alicante Airport, Madrid Airport and Valencia Airport.

Galicia Spain

While much of Spain is wrinkled and parched by the sun, Galicia, in the northwest Atlantic corner of the peninsula, is eternally green and lush. Here 64 inches per year of rain produce verdant mountain slopes, a network of bluegreen rivers, pine and eucalyptus forests, palm trees, and lush terraces of vinesa climate not dissimilar to that of the other regions of northern Spain, including Cantabria, Asturias, and the Basque Country. Geographically and culturally cut off from much of the rest of the country, Galicians, like the Basques and the Catalans, are bilingual in Spanish and their own national language.

Galego is an old Romance tongue quite similar to that of Portugal, Galicia's southern neighbor, and in this part of Spain instead of buenos dias you say bos dias (pronounced bohss deeahs) for good morning or good day, and gracifias (grahseenyahs) for thank you; adios (goodbye) remains the same. Unlike the Basques and the Catalans, however, Galicians (calledgalegos like their language) have more in common ethnically with the Celts of Ireland, Scotland, and French Brittany. In fact, Galicia is just the kind of place where you can imagine a knight roaming ancient woods and glens in search of the Holy Grail, or a lost city arising from the depths of a misty lake. Though much less well known to visitors than other parts of the country, it's truly a fairytale land that enchants and seduces.

The Celts conquered the area in the 8th century AD and gave Galicia its Gaelic heritage, which still lives in many of today's rituals and popular beliefs. The bagpipes that accompany moonlit dances, the cross symbols to ward off evil spirits, and a tradition of ancestor worship are some of the vestiges of this rich culture, along with the remains of the fortified Celtic castros, tiny stone villages that dot the countryside. The pagan past lives on in the folk practices of many of today's peasants, who still believe that rivers, trees, and animals talk, that forests are populated with fairies and tiny gnomes, and that ancestral spirits roam the landscape. This communion with the land and sea has helped fashion a regional character that is gentle and conservative, and at times stubborn.

Though fertile and rich in history and lore, Galicia is also one of Spain's poorer areas. The feudal system of dividing land into hundreds of small holdings (each consisting of little more than a terracottaroofed cottage, a few vines, a cornfield, and an ox or donkey), made it difficult for large families to live off the land. Thus many galegos were forced to look elsewhere for their livelihoods. So many traveled to Latin America that today there are more galegos in Buenos Aires than in Galicia itself, and in some countries the word gallego (in Spanish) is slang for any Spaniard. Many descendants of these immigrants (such as Cuba's Fidel Castro) have gone on to play major roles in their adopted lands.

The region's golden age came in the Middle Ages, when an obscure town in this distant corner of Europe became one of Christendom's three holiest places following a peasant's discovery in 813 of what was claimed to be the long-forgotten burial place of Santiago (St. James the Apostle). Though an improbable development, and one thought by many scholars to be an ecclesiastical hoax, over the centuries the presence of the saint's supposed remains in Santiago de Compostela fueled reports of miracles and provided a rallying point for Iberia's Christians in their Reconquista (reconquest of the peninsula from the Moors); St. James subsequently appeared in many a banner and artwork as Santiago Matamoros, the Moorslayer.

The holy relics turned the city into a pilgrimage destination exceeded in importance only by Jerusalem and Rome, and the chapel built to house the saint's remains grew into the magnificent Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. To deal with the steady stream of pilgrims, a chain of monasteries, churches, and hospices sprang up across northern Spain along the Camino de Santiagothe famous Way of St. James (for additional details, see the Pilgrims'Route).

Galicia today is one of Spain's 17 comunidades autonomas (autonomous communities) with its own Xunta (government), parliament, and many of its own laws. The postwar period has brought a certain amount of ugliness to the regionmostly in the form of characterless apartment blocks and prefabricated holiday bungalows in the coastal resort areas. But the historic centers of towns such as Santiago de Compostela, A Coruna, Lugo, Pontevedra, and Baiona are archetypical Spain, and the rolling green hills and forests shelter unspoiled villages, solitary pazosthe former homes of noble Spanish familiesand, attached to most small holdings, the distinctive wood and granite huts perched on stilts and traditionally used for storing grain.

The provinces of Galicia

Galicia consists of four provinces - A Coruna (La Coruna in Spanish) and Lugo to the north, Pontevedra and landlocked Ourense (Orense) to the south and its deeply indented coastline is divided into two sections. The wild, more exposed Rias Altas (Upper Estuaries) run westward along the coast of the provinces of Lugo and A Coruna, from Ribadeo roughly to the city of A Coruna; the gentler coves, wooded hills, and fishing villages of the Rias Baixas (Lower Estuaries, also called Rias Bajas in Spanish) run south along the coast of the provinces of A Coruna and Pontevedra, frorn Muros down to Baiona.

The still and quiet rias (estuaries) closely resemble Norwegian fjords or Scottish lochs, with long stretches of palmfringed sand that have yet to experience the commercialization that has altered the shore along much of the Mediterranean. From the Rio (River) Eo, which borders Asturias, around to the Rio Mino on the Portuguese frontier, the shoreline is rugged and beautiful, as yet uncluttered by vacation homes and attendant businesses. But between the Rias Altas and the Rias Baixas is a stretch of coast called the Costa da Morte (in Spanish, Costa de la Muerte, Coast of Death), treacherous to sailors through the ages and a cemetery for countless ships and sailors dashed against its rocks. It begins at Malpica and comes to an abrupt end at Cabo Fisterra (from the Latin Finisterre, literally the end of the earth for medieval man).

Seafood in Galicia

Galician cuisine revolves around seafood. Along the coast, entire communities are engaged in milking the sea and rushing the day's (or night's) catch to restaurant tables. Even the smallest restaurant has at least one fish tank full of crabs and lobsters. Culinary mainstays from the sea and the rias include mejillones ( mussels), cigallas (a shrimplike crayfish), anlilas (eels), pulpo (octopus), and chipirones (small squid). Galegos tired of the sight of seafood will probably opt for caldeirada galega (called caldo gallego in Spanish), a hearty soup of potatoes and cabbage, or a plate of lacon con grelos, a potage of salted pork and turnip tops, usually accompanied by a young local wine drunk from a white porcelain cup and believed to have mild aphrodisiac powers.

Driving in Galicia

Galicia is a wonderful region in which to drive, especially since the A9 highway, linking the region's two biggest cities and industrial areas - A Coruna and Vigo, 97 miles (156 km) apart was recently completed. A well-planned network of freeways, fast and scenic, delves into the remotest corners, backed up by numerous and fairly well maintained country roads. Road signs are excellent, even though occasionally some place names in Castilian have been altered by spray paintwielding Galician separatists. Note that signs may be bilingual, or in some cases in Galician only; rua is the Galician word for the Spanish calle (street), and praza is the local equivalent of plaza (square).

The route outlined below is a circular one, encompassing significant stretches of both coastline and countryside and capturing the scenic beauties of the fishing villages lining the rias, whose riverbeds are regularly raked for mussels and clams. It begins in Santiago de Compostela and hugs the coastline from the vicinity of Padron, southwest of Santiago, to Pontevedra, before continuing due south past the Algarino wine-growing region through Vigo to Baiona. From here it follows the seashore again, at times only yards from the water, before turning east along the Rio Mino, which forms the border with Portugal (and is known as the Minho in Portuguese), to the frontier town ofTui (Tuy), where it is possible to walk or drive to Portugal across the bridge spanning the river.

The itinerary then cuts inland, following the Mino to Ourense, then passing through the Ribeiro vineyard country around Ribadavia.
From Ourense, the route heads north via the old walled town of Lugo to Ribadeo on Galicia's north coast. Except for an excursion inland to Mondonedo, the route now stays on the coast, exploring the Rias Altas around the northwest corner of Galicia to Ferrol and A Coruna.

Accommodation in Galicia

Because Galicia is not a hotbed of tourism, the choice of accommodations is fairly limited. The region's nine paradors, particularly the two in Santiago de Compostela and Baiona, are the notable exceptions. The paradors, with their reliably high standards, represent the best value for money in this region.

When planning your itinerary, bear in mind that opening hours for churches, museums, and other places of touristic interest usually run from 9 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM and then again from 4 or 5 to 6 or 7 PM; schedules may also vary with the season. Weekend hours are generally shorter than on weekdays, and closing days tend to be Sundays or Mondays.

CastileLeon (Old Castile)

The Castilian meseta (plateau) is the historical and spiritual heartland that eventually gathered a united Spain around it. After the country's protracted Reconquista (reconquest of the peninsula from the Moors) was born in the early 8th century in the Atlantic region Asturiasa remnant of the old Visigothic, and therefore Christian, Spain, and the only part the Moors had failed to conquerthe movement spread southward across Leon and into the vast, elevated plateau of Castile, where it gained'its greatest foothold.

A shared commitment to driving the Moors out of Spain forged a firm bond between the kingdoms of Castile and Leon, and early in the 13th century the two kingdoms were united. In 1469 the region began a rapid rise to prominence when Isabella of Castile married Ferdinand of Aragon. By 1479, the couplesince then referred to as the Reyes Catolicos (Catholic Monarchs) ruled over a joint kingdom of Aragon and Castile that was the basis of modern Spain. Their union also set in motion the centuries long and notoriously cruel quest for religious uniformity known as the Spanish Inquisition, first instituted by Isabella in Castile in 1478 and not abolished until the early 19th century.

At the dawn of the 16th century, with Spain at the height of its power, Castile occupied more than half of the Iberian Peninsula, extending from the Pyrenees to Gibraltar. But with the decline of Spain that took place after the defeat of its Invincible Armada came the decline of Castile, and the 18th century saw a steady emigration deplete the populations of its most prosperous cities and towns by as much as one half.

Today's autonomous community of CastileLeon comprises nine provinces: Zamora, Leon, and Salamanca (which correspond to the former kingdom of Leon) plus Palencia, Valladolid, Avila, Burgos, Segovia, and Soria (which correspond to the northern half of the former kingdom of Castile, and also to the historic region that was know as Castilla la Vieja Old Castile). Virtually ringed by high mountain ranges, the immense Castilian plateau, which has an average altitude of 2,600 feet, occupies about one fifth of modern-day Spain.

Exposed to everything from scorching hot summers to blustery, bone-chilling winters, it remains largely a region of wheat and corn fields, vegetable patches, and dairy and sheep farms, although it is not immune to changes mandated by European Union membership and the subsequent progress that is sweeping through the peninsula.

Although there are occasional regional and chauvinistic rifts and rivalries between the provinces of Castile and the provinces of Leon, in general, common cullture binds the nine provinces of CastileLeon. This is Particularly true in the culinary realm.

Cuisine in CastileLeon

The regIon Iisknown as la tierra de asados (the land of roasts) and lamb and pork are favored here. Though far from the sea, the region's rivers provide fine tench, trout, and ancas rana (frogs legs). Chickpeas, lentIls, and assorted varieties of broad beans are also served.
Wholesome tasty, rib-sticking regional stews. A prime hunting ground, this region is also noted for its liebre (hare), codorniz (quail) pichon (pigeon), and perdiz (partridge). Among the favored desserts a ' leche frita (fried milk), almendrados (almond paste), and yemas de San: Teresa (candied egg yolks).

CastileLeon also produces one of the widest ranges of wines in all of Spain, from the robust reds of Taro to the delicate whites of Rueda. With more than 50,000 acres devoted to the grape, the region is third within Spain in terms of area planted in vines. Among the 13 noteworthy wine- growmg areas in the regIon, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, and Taro have achieved Denomination of Origin status (the equivalent of the French appelation ).

CastileLeon is primarily fluent in the Romanesque, Gothic and MudeJar vernaculars, which achieve their finest expressions on a wide range of cathedrals, castles, and palaces (Mudejar refers to the hybrid Gothic-Moorish style of the Moorish craftsmen allowed to continue living under ChrIstian rule). Castile derives its name from the abundance of castles that guarded its numerous feudal interests during the Middle Ages. GIven the ravages of time and man, however, these structures are notably scarce along the 500-mile (800km) route.

Keep in mind when planning your itinerary that in CastileLeon as in other parts of Spain, churches, museums, historic sites, and other plaes of touristic interest generally open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM and then again from around 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 PM; some hours may change with the seasons. Some museums are open mornings only.

Driving around Madrid

From Madrid to Avila, via N VI and M505, is a distance of 69 miles (110 km). Take M505, which branches off from NVI about 10 miles (16 km) northwest of Plaza de Cibeles. At this point, the city has been left behind, and after crossing a big bridge over the very small Rio (River) Guadarrama, the road becomes more rural and curvaceous. After another 11 miles (18 km), just before the bridge crossing the Embalse de Valmayor (Valmayor Reservoir), there is a glimpse of Philip II's palace monastery of EI Escorial straight ahead. For the next few miles, the imposing monument ducks in and out of sight, until the turn off 7 km beyond the reservoir, when the road splits, veering right for San Lorenzo de El Escorial, the village that abuts the palace monastery, and left for Avila and El Escorial itself (follow signs for Monasterio de El Escorial, not just for El Escorial).

About half a mile (1 km) farther on, M505 turns left to Avila, while M600 goes straight for a little over a mile (2 km) to the monastery parking lot.

Head back to M505, en route to Avila. (Although well marked approaching El Escorial, the way out of town is not clearly signposted.) The road offers a good view of the towering monastery to the right, then continues to Avila amid mountains that were only a hazy mirage from Madrid. Ahead, a large sign marks the border of CastileLeon, and in particular, the province of Avila; then the road gradually ascends the Castilian plateau to Spain's highest provincial capital (3,600 feet), which appears after the crest of a hill. Follow the Centro Urbano or Centro Ciudad signs into the city.

Avila by car

Built on the banks of the Rio Adaja, Avila (pronounced AhveeIah, with the accent on the first syllable) is a city whose historical center is surrounded by remarkably well preserved rectangular walls that are most dramatic when viewed in silhouette against the surrounding Castilian plain. To the southwest, the wall, begun in 1090, divides Avila from an expanse of undeveloped land, but to the northeast, it has failed to contain the city, which has grown beyond its medieval boundaries.

Avila's ramparts look like a row of sharpened teeth amid the dry stubble of the battlefield brown plain. The 11th-century walls seem unweathered and brand new. Construction of the wall began in 1090; it took 10 years and more than 2,000 workers to complete 88 semicircular towers nine gates, several posterns, and innumerable battlements along an 820 foot perimeter.
It may feel as if the only way to get into the city is with battering ram, but only a walk through a gate in the walls is necessary to see banks and cales and hear the sounds of televised soccer games blarin; through open windows. From the gardens of the Parador Raimundo de Borgofia it's an easy climb up to the battlements for a squint into the distance for an approaching army of Moors.

As the birthplace and religious training ground of the famous Santa Teresa de Jesus de Avila (commonly known in English as St. Teresa of Avila), a Carmelite nun who founded a reformed order of Carmelites, the DescaLzas (Barefoot) Carmelites, Avila has played a strong spiritual role in the evolution of both Castile and Spain as a whole.

Born in 1515 in what is now the Convento de Santa Teresa (Plaza de la Santa; open daily; no admission charge), St. Teresa took her vows and had the spiritual experiences that paved the way for her canonization in the Monasterio de La Encarnacion (Plaza de la Encarnacion; open daily; admission charge). St. Teresa first put her religious principles into practice in the first convent of the Barefoot Carmelite order, the nearby Convento de San Jose, or Con vento de Las Madres (Calle del Duque de Alba; open daily; admission charge).

Avila Cathedral

Avila's other noted sights are also religious in nature. Just inside the Puerta de los Leales (Gate of the Loyal Ones) is the starkly rectilinear 12th-century stone cathedral (on Calle A1emafia), a plain structure, except for the ornately carved frieze above the multiarched Gothic entrance.

Inside the cathedral are three aisles and a central choir. The cathedral's museum, housed in the 15thcentury Capilia de Cardenal (Cardinal's Chapel), contains hymnal tomes from the 15th century; silk-embroidered, gold and lace-adorned vestments of the 18th century; a fivefoot tall, 16thcentury silver Custodia del Corpus, a sixtier monstrance that is paraded through the streets every Fiesta del Corpus Christi and looks like an overgrown wedding cake ornament; a carved wooden coffin containing the remains of San Segundo, Avila's first archbishop; and a 16th-century Ecce Homo, a painting depicting Christ wearing the crown of thorns. Just inside the cathedral entrance, the bronze statue of San Pedro is kept shiny at the knees, nose, and hands by the faithful hoping that good fortune will rub off on them.

Avila's Romanesque Iglesia de San Vicente (St. Vincent Church; Plaza de San Vicente) is just outside the walls on the northeast, through the Puerta de San Vicente (St. Vincent's Gate). Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, it has an arched loggia of gray stone that clashes in tone with the amber blocks, of the main structure. The main attraction inside is the Sepulcro de Los Niños Martires (Sepulcher of the Martyred Children) recalling the church's founding legend, which holds that three young Siblings were martyred on this spot. The church is open daily; admission charge.

Of a more welcoming nature is the Iglesia de San Pedro (St. Peter's), begun in 1100 as a Romanesque structure and later fitted with Gothic flourishes. Situated outside the walls opposite the Puerta del Alcazar at the far end of the Plaza de Santa Teresa, it containssince Pope John Paul II's 1983 visita mounted chapel honoring the Virgin of Czestochowa, Queen of Poland. It's open to visitors daily before and after religious services; hours vary. The Monasterio de Santo Tomas (St. Thomas Monastery) on Plaza de Granada, once isolated from the city proper, now stands at the very edge of Avila's urban expansion.

Its checkered past includes use as the headquarters of the Inquisition (Tomas de Torquemada, the feared inquisitor general, lived here), a turn as the summer palace of Ferdinand and Isabella, and an interlude as the seat of a university. The final resting place of Ferdinand and Isabella's son, Prince Juan, today it is a Dominican monastery complete with church, cloisters, and choir, as well as an Oriental art gallery in the former royal apartments. The complex is open daily; admision charge to the cloister, through which the complex is entered; additional charge for the art gallery.

Zamora Bridge Avila Spain

Zamora is a 13th century Romanesque bridge over the Rio (River) Duero marks the historic center of Zamora, which rises steeply some 100 feet on the river's right bank. This is the city where EI Cid spent part of his youth and was reportedly knighted. Its most outstanding feature is the cathedral (Plaza del Castillo); built during the 12th century with a few later additions, it has a great dome decorated in a curious Byzantine scalloped pattern.

The cathedral museum contains an unsurpassed collection of tapestries, yet another example of the numerous hidden treasures Spain offers to those willing to stray off the beaten track.

A fine view of the Rio Duero and the Romanesque bridge that spans it can be appreciated from the Puerta del Obispo (Bishop's Gate), an arched gateway in the city wall behind the cathedral.
A favorite excursion from Zamora is to Pereruela, a small village with a few hundred inhabitants 10 miles (16 km) southwest of town via C527. A handful of families here still make fine ceramic cookware by hand; visitors can see the clay being sculpted and ovens being fired out back by the family barns. Although there are no shops, the goods can be purchased from the source, or from family members displaying their wares along the road.

Benavente Spain

Benavente Spain is situated on a promontory near the confluence of the Rio Orbigo and the Rfo Esla, this town offers a stunning view of the Castilian plain to the south and west. The Iglesia de Santa Maria del Azoque, a 12th-century church of very irregular construction, is one of two special sights in townbe sure to walk around it to appreciate the kaleidoscopic effect of its diverse architectural elements. Most striking in its interior are three slender Gothic naves with precisely pointed arches. Open for mass at 9 AM and 7 PM daily, and more frequently on Sundays, the church is best visited just before or after the service.

The town's other special sight is the Parador Fernando II de Leon, on Paseo Ramon y Cajal, which incorporates a well-preserved, 16th-century GothicRenaissance tower that was an addition to a 12th-century castlepalace. Installed in the vestigial tower are a lovely salon and, below that, an impressive bar (open evenings). Watching the sun set though the bar's oversized windows is a rare treat.

Leon Spain

This provincial capital traces its origins back to the times of the Romans who built a fortification at the confluence of the Rios (Plaza de Regia), built during the 13th and 14th centuries. Modelled on the cathedrals at Reims and Amiens in France, it is an exquisite example of Spanish Gothic architecture. Its glory lies in its more than 130 square feet of stained glass, the most dazzling display in Spain. The cathedral museum stands out for its commendable collections of Roman bran figures and weapons, Neolithic artifacts, and Romanesque statues.

.About a 10minute walk from the cathedral is another important Leon sight, the Romanesque Basilica de San Isidoro (Plaza de San Isidoro), built in the 11th century, adorned and cloistered during the 12th, and partially reconstructed and enlarged during the 16th. Regrettably, the later remodeling obliterated much of the original Romanesque, but the basilica's pan. This remains one of the earliest examples of the Romanesque architectural genre in Spain.

Here, 22 kings and queens of the old kingdom of Leon are buried beneath 12th-century frescoes that have prompted many to refer to this as the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art; the pantheon also boasts capitals and a portal carved with scenes from the Gospels, the earliest in Spain to be so decorated. A separate room houses the treasury, complete with illuminated Bibles and other fine relics.

A third important monument in Leon, the Parador San Marcos is located along the river and built in the Renaissance style. One of Leon's liveliest and loveliest landmarks, this was formerly the Monasterio de San Marcos, which was donated to the Order of Santiago by the Catholic Monarchs in appreciation of services rendered during the Reconquista. The monastery then became a hospice for pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela. During the Renaissance, it blossomed to its present sumptuousness; the parador now shares the grounds of the original monastery with the Museo Arqueologico Provincial.

The adjacent Gothic church with its ornately carved choir stalls was a 16th-century addition.All of the above sights of Leon are in the Casco Viejo (Old Town), which has been substantially rebuilt, although its streets still follow the old twists and turns, and which is surrounded by a modern city of highrises The Oficina de Turismo (3 Plaza de RegIa is just across from the cathedral; open daily. Not far away is the Plaza Mayor, surrounded by porticoes and, on most days, alive with a farmers' market.

PALENCIA Located on the left bank of the Rio Carri6n, Palencia (derivedIts ancent.Roman name, PalJantia was on.ce a capital city of the vaccea Celtic tnbe, and later of the VIsIgoth KIng Theodoric, who wrested the town from the Romans. Today for the most part it's a typically non-descript provincial Castilian city. But definitely worth a detour is its Gothic cathedral, whose construction spanned two centuries. ThIs earlIer basilIca, marked by three arches and a single rectangular Romanesque nave, has become the crypt of the present church.

The cathedral museum contains a painting of San Sebastian by EI Greco, a small sampling of Romanesque statues, and some 15th-century tapestries.


Valladolid Spain

A former medieval capital of Spain, this is where the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella were married in 1469, where Columbus died in 1506, where Philip II was born in 1527, and where Miguel de Cervantes lived for three years in the 17th century. Napoleon used the city as a headquarters for his army in the early 19th century during the Peninsular War; unfortunately, they looted or destroyed many of Valla dolid's ancient art treasures and monuments. For those willing to fight the traffic and bat tie the lack of coherent signs in this rather unattractive and fairly large city, several sights worthy of attention do still remain.

The late 15thcentury Colegio de San Gregorio (on Cadenas de San Gregorio) is noted for its facade, a masterpiece of the Isabeline style, and for its courtyard, wonderfully Plateresque, but above all for being the home of one of Spain's most important museums, the Museo Nacional de Escultura Policromada. A repository of the types of colorfully painted wooden sculptures seen in churches all over the country, the museum includes works from the 13th through the 17th centuries and is particularly strong in sculptures by Castilian masters of the Renaissance.

The adjacent 15th-century Iglesia de San Pablo (on Plaza de San Pablo) is also worthy of note, above all for the ornate faade, its lower level a Gothic design carved by Simon of Cologne, its upper reaches Plateresque. The interior is open only during church services.

Valladolid Cathedral

Valladolid's cathedral was designed in the late 16th century by Juan de Herrera, of El Escorial fame, but it was finished much later, according to plans by Alberto Churrigueranote that the upper part of the faade is Baroque. The Museo Oriental, located in the basement of the Real Colegio Padres de Agustinos Filipinos houses the best collection of Asian art in Spain, consisting mainly of works from the Philippines and China.

Tordesillas Spain

A typical Castilian pueblo and the place where Juana la Loca (Joan the Mad), mother of Charles V and grandmother of Philip II, was imprisoned until her death, Tordesillas was also the spot where the Spanish and Portuguese met in 1494 to sign the Treaty of Tordesillas, which divided the Western Hemisphere in two, giving all lands west of a line to Spain and all lands east to Portugala decision that ultimately resulted in Brazil becoming Portuguese and much of the rest of Central and South America Spanish.

Besides a somewhat austerely attractive Plaza Mayor, the small 16th century Iglesia de San Antolfo, a stone's throw from the plaza, is worth a visit if only for the vista of the Duero and the medieval bridge that leads into town. The church museum houses the Inmaculada by Pedro de Mena, and an almost lifesize sculpture of the Holy Family attributed to Gregorio Fernandez. The nearby palace cum monastery known as Santa Clara is a fine example of Mudejar architecture, with a beautiful Moorish patio and baths - a rarity in these parts.

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Cycling and walking in Spain

Because of the mild climate in Spain, touring by bicycle is easy and the itinerary possibilities are nearly inexhaustible. Visitors who pedal through the Spanish countryside will get to know parts of the country that most vacationers never see. In Spain, a bike ride can cover a variety of terrain, from the hilly land of olive groves to flat vineyards and lush countryside overflowing with orange and lemon trees. Leisurely bicycle rides pass through tiny fishing villages and medieval towns dotted with Moorish ruins. These are the real sights, the hidden enclaves still untouched by tourism.

Those who have traveled around Europe by bicycle before will find that a cycling vacation in Spain is slightly more primitive than in most other Western European countries. There is hardly an abundance of sophisticated repair shops, nor even the guarantee of wellsurfaced secondary roads (though the situation is improving).

Bicycle rentals are available in Spain, but not omnipresent. Intermediate and diehard cyclists will want to bring their own bicycles and gear. Airlines will generally transport bikes as part of passengers' personal baggage, but they may insist that the entire bike be crated; check with the airline before departure. Also be sure to confirm insurance coverage.

And note that when traveling by train in Spain, a bike (like luggage) must be placed in the last car, so make sure that it is properly labeled with name, address, and the stations of origin and destination. A sturdy lock is another sensible precaution.

Map of Spain

As usual, take along a basic set of tools and spares, including a tire pump, puncture repair kit, tire levers, spoke key, oil can, batteries and bulbs, rag, extra spokes, inner tubes and tires, pliers, and odd nuts and bolts. Traveling with a minimal amount of cash and a credit card is also advised. In addition, take a good map of Spain; Michelin generally has the best.

Cyclists traveling alone through Spain will find the local people very friendly; riders often wind up staying in one place longer than they had planned after making new friends. It does help, however, to have a rudimentary understanding of Spanish, especially when touring the rural routes, as most people in the countryside do not speak English. A pocket dictionary is heartily recommended. If the thought of biking solo is less than a satisfactory vacation idea, there are numerous organized bicycle tours available in Spain.

Cycling in Andalusia

This region's warm year round climate, well marked and well paved roads, and scenery rank it as one of the best places to go biking in Spain. Home to feisty flamenco dancers and sunsplashed villages, Andalusia boasts three of the country's most fascinating cities: Granada, Cordoba and Seville. Begin the tour in Granada, with a steep ride up to the Alhambra: a complex of palaces, fortresses, and gardens built during the 13th and 14th centuries. Then meander in Columbus's historic footsteps to Santa Fe the city where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella signed the agreement sponsoring the explorer's famous voyage. Next, head to Cordoba, one of Spain's oldest CItIes.

Along the way, the route skirts past two rivers, the Marbella and the Guadajoz. The terrain along the route is fairly easy, consisting ostly of gentle downhill slopes and flat land. The road begins to climb Just beyond the small village of Torres Cabrera.

Heading South toward Seville, the route passes through alternating views of extensIve fIelds and barren wastelands. OccasionalIy, a fortress pokes up its venerable head III the dlstance. Seville is one of the most romantic cities in Spain and one of its most touristic. The roads, most of which were dramatically improved in preparation for Expo '92, are well marked, the scenery full of history and beauty. Always be careful to lock up the bike and take off one of its wheels - unfortunately, caution is necessary here (as in most major cities), as crime has become an all too frequent problem. After SevIlle, lt s a one hour ride northeast to Carmona once a thriving Moorish stronghold, to view its famous 14th-century Castle.

Cycling in the Basque country

The hilly Basque Country is best known for the town of Guernica (Gemika in the Basque language), made famous by Pablo Picasso's painting of the same name, depicting the horrors of the Spanish Civil War. It is an interesting area to explore because its culture and its people - even its language are quite different from the rest of Spain. The area will appeal to cyclists who enjoy diverse geography. The tour rolIs past rugged mountains and stony undulations to soft, sloping, wide sandy shores and steep, pine-covered hilI sides.

In San Sebastian (known in Basque as Donostia), the road along the puerto's edge travels past some of the best seafood restaurants serving fresh food caught that day. Cycle along the Bilbao coast for some of the finest and most surprising scenery along the North Atlantic coast.

Cycling in Castillon

This is a land of fairytale images, including that of El Escorial, King Philip II's somber yet lavish palace monastery near Madrid; the near perfect 11th century walled city of Avila, framed by the snowcapped ridge of the Sierra de Gredos; and Segovia, home to an ancient Roman aqueduct and the Alcazar, a spectacular medieval castle. This trip pedals past the royal palace and gardens of La Granja de San Ildefonso, often referred to as the Versailles of Spain, and the romantic spiraling cathedrals of Burgos and the handsome square at Valladolid.

Start either in Madrid or at El Escotial, and plan enough time for a visit to the Valle de los Caidos (ValIey of the Fallen), an impressive memorial to those who died in the Spanish Civil War.

Cycling in the Pyrenees

Intermediate pedalers will enjoy the challenge of this region, as it is filled with a number of ups and downs, but the views here are so spectacular that even beginners should give it a try. The area is the home of many of Spain's better ski resorts, including Baqueira Beret and Tuca Betren, and during spring and summer rich green and yellow fields criss-cross the wide valleys and small undiscovered villages.

Map of the Pyrenees

Because of the proximity to France, the French influence on the food and the people here is very obvious. Ask the staff at the tourist office for the map Valles Superiores del Segre/Ariege, which covers the High UrgelI, Cerdanya, and the Ribes ValIey. A favorite tour is through the Parc Nacional Aigues Tortes (Aigues Tortes National Park) with the Llac Sant Maurici (Lake St. Maurice), just south of Vall d'Aran. This national park is a wonderland of crashing waterfalls and serene lakes, which makes for very pleasant bicycling.

Cycling on the Costa Blanca Spain

The White Coast, which extends from the fortress town of Denia down to Torrevija, is another resort rich in natural beauty that is perfect for the cyclIst. LIke the Costa del Sol, it has its share of unspoiled areas.

Cycling Costa Brava

The Wild Coast is rougher and rockier than its sister resort areas but just as magnificent. Most people flock here during the summer, so it is best to visit in the off season, when it is more tranquil and easier to explore. Plan ahead, though, as many hotels and restaurants close at the end of the high season. The roads her are well paved, but the terrain is often steep, physically challenging, and some spots even dangerous. This tour is not recommended for novice cyclists.

Cycling Costa de la Luz Spain

This Coast of Light, which runs from Tarifa on the southern tip of Spain overlooking the majestic straits of Gibraltar to the town of Ayamonte on the Portuguese border, is less congested and more ruggedly scenic than the Costa del Sol. Relatively flat, it makes for a scenic bike route. Of particular interest are the picturesque town of Vejer de la Frontera perched on a limestone headland near Cabo de Trafalgar, where Lord Nelson's navy crippled a Napoleonic fleet; the flamenco, horse, and sherry town of Jerez de la Frontera; Sanlucar de Barrameda, with its revered manzailla wine and spectacular sunsets over the Rio Guadalquivir (Guadalquivir River); and the whIte, sandy beaches at Matalascanas and Castilla. If you happen to be traveling in May, stop at the shrine of El Rocio, inside Coto Nacional Doñana where one of Europe's most pIcturesque and Iively romerias (pilgrimages) takes place complete with costumes and musIc.

Cycling Costa del Sol

Although the Sun Coast in the south of Spain falls under the jurisdiction of the region of Andalusia, it warrants a special mention. This tour passes through hills that drop off into the gentle surf of the MedIterranean and along roads that coil around the crashing waves. The Costa del Sol officially extends from Sotogrande del Guadiaro east of Gibraltar, in the Spanish southwest, to the town of Nerja, east of Malaga. Those seeking the action and international flavor of some of Europe's most popular and lively beach resorts should pedal into the crowded resorts of Malaga, Marbella, and Torremolinos. Farther inland, the frenetic tourism of the resorts subsides, with quiet small towns of whitewashed houses where the essence of Old Spain still thrives.

One of the best places to enjoy a fiery Andalusian sunset is from the Puente Nuevo in Ronda, where the cliffs glow a soothing orange and red, reflecting the strong Spanish sun. In general, the roads along the Costa del Sol are in fairly good condition and easy to follow.
Cyclists traveling in the off-season should prepare to ride west to east, thus avoiding the strong easterly winds. Also not to be missed is the great Penon (Rock of Gibraltar). The view is breathtaking along the Strait of Gibraltar all the way to the Moroccan coast. Although the area itself is British rather than Spanish (Gibraltar is a British crown colony), a visit here offers a chance to view one of the Iberian Peninsula's most famous sights.

Cycling in the Pyrenees of Navarra Spain

There is probably no area in Spain quite as suited for quiet pedaling as this region along the valleys of the Arga and Aragon Rivers, where mountain valleys swoop down to the dusty red desert. Begin this itinerary in Sangiiesa, an ancient town of 5,000 on the Rio Aragon, and travel northeast, past the large and austere Cistercian Monasterio de Leyre, whose ancient church with its 12th-century crypt was the final resting place of the kings of Navarre. Continue west through sleepy Roncal, with its cobbled streets and stone houses, and the more upbeat town of Isaba, just to the north. Ahead lies Roncesvalles, historically known for the Song of Roland, an epic poem that romanticized the defeat of Charlemagne's rear guard during its retreat from Spain.

The monastery here marked the beginning of the famous Pilgrims' Route as it entered Spain from France en route to Santiago de Compostela in the northwestern corner of the country. Don't be surprised by the sign warning of cattle on the loose in the valley of Valcarlos, a few miles from the French border, which marks the end of this tour.

Hiking and walking in Spain

Before choosing a specific area of the country for hiking, look at a general road map of Spain that shows physical characteristics, so as not to opt for terrain that is too demanding for your level of fitness. For less than hardcore hikers, the choice of a mountainous region could well be foolhardy. To make the outing safe and pleasant, it is imperative for hikers to know their own limits.

Unless they are very experienced, hikers should stick to the defined areas and all hikers should always let someone know their planned destination and expected time of return (leave a note on the car if hiking alone). Those who prefer going as part of an organized tour should contact a local hiking club, a travel agent, or one of the tour packagers offering hiking tours.

Basic hiking essentials include a sturdy pair of shoes and socks, long pants if headed into heavily wooded areas, a canteen, a hat, sunblock, rainwear, and something warm, just in case. It is always best to dress in layers. Also make sure to wear clothes with pockets, or bring along a pack so that both hands can remain free. Some useful but often overlooked tools include a jack knife, waterproof matches, a map, a compass, a Spanish bota (water pouch), and snacks. In the more remote areas, a backpack, sleeping bag and pad, cookstove, food, and other gear are required.

Spain is consistent only in its diversity. There are the extreme peaks of the highlands, the Pyrenees, and the Picos de Europa, and the lowlands of the Basque Country. The best times of year to hike these areas are late spring and early autumn, when the flora and fauna are at their most vibrant and the temperatures are at their most delightful. Since hot weather is not necessarily a welcome companion on a walk, it's best to avoid the southern regions in midsummer. And since it can get warm almost anywhere in Spain between May and September, the wise walker will get most of a day's journey done before midday.

Weather in Spain

Always check the weather in advance. Like the topography, the temperature varies enormously from region to region; the high plains of the center suffer from fierce extremesstiflingly hot in summer and bitterly cold in winter. The Atlantic coast, in contrast, has a permanent tendency to dampness and a relatively brief summer. Much of the Mediterranean is warm virtually the entire year, and the archipelago of the Canary Islands off the northwest coast of Africa has weather that ranges from springlike to ovenlike. The following regions, listed alphabetically, are recommended for a Spanish hiking holiday.

The Algues National Park Pyrenees Catalan

This is for the hiker who rejoices in waterfalls and serene lakes. Some 20,000 years ago, a glacier blasted its way through what is now northern Lleida province, leaving behind a panoramic wonderland. The park is reached either from, the vllage.of Bohi to the west or from Espot, on Its eastern edge. The park´s tourist office provides numerous hiking
suggestions.

Of special interest is a 16mile (26km) walk that passes the mountain lakes surrounding Estany de la Llosa and enters the valley of Estany de Sant Maurici. Wild goats roaming the area are a frequent sight. Less traveled but equally rewarding is the path leading up to Aigiies Tortes. Along the way, the trail passes through the Vall d'Bohi one of the best places to view Romanesque architecture in the world. The land is predominantly rural and dotted with churches dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. The park is best viewed in late spring, summer, and autumn.

Walking in the Catalan Pyrenees

Good, fairly gentle trails, coupled with plenty of historic sights and a hospitable nature, make this northeast corner of Spain a sensible choice for the lessambitious walker in need of wayside distractions. By virtue of its location just across the French border), hikers can experience a variety of cultures, languages, and foods. In La Seu d'Urgell, nature buffs will have a field day roaming quiet peaks, scouting for wild mushrooms.

Other expeditions lie in the valley of Nuria, where wildfowers and waterfalls dot the landscape. Also popular is the majestic Pulgmal peak.

The Covadonga National Park Oviedo

This national park lays claim to the western region of the Picos de Europa and boasts some of the most beautiful scenery in the country, as well as the largest number of annual visitors. It was here, according to legend, that the Virgin Mary interceded with God on behalf of the king, Don Pelayo, ensuring his warriors of victory against the Moors in 718. Today, the park caters to both nature lovers and religious entourages.
The Santa Cueva (Sacred Cave) is where Don Pelayo supposedly prayed to the Virgin.

For those seeking solitude, it's best to avoid the park on and around September 8 when the area celebrates the Fiesta de la Virgen (Day of the Virgin) With numerous festivities. During this period, head instead for the hills and enjoy the wildlife that inhabits it. The higher you hike, the more likely you are to encounter a fleeting glimpse of a bear, wolf, wildcat, or fox. At the moun, tain's base are two lakes of glacial origin, EI Enol and La Ercina. Both swimming and camping are permitted here.

The Monte Perdido National Park Jaca

This park in Spain's northeast, is made up of diverse terrain that will please hikers of all abilities. This is one of the country's most beautiful areas. Its jewel-like gorges and waterfalls, steep mountains flowered with edelweiss, and dazzling forests of pine and beech are enough to encourage even the most lethargic of hikers. The best areas of the park can usually be covered in two to four days; its finest scenic assets lie near the magnificent Escuain Gorge and the Rio Yago (Yago River). There are also four distinct valleys to explore; the visitors' center provides a guided itinerary with recommended routes. The Ordesa area is also a walker's paradise, with many routes available.

The Picos de Europa Spain

This stretch of remote territory is especially popular with backpackers and experienced hikers, who take advantage of the numerous trails that transcend the range's jagged profile, valleys, and lower slopes. Always be sure to check weather forecasts before setting off on a hike in this region, as the area is prone to sudden drops in temperature and surprise rainstorms. Note that only well-equipped and very advanced alpinists should attempt to scale the peaks themselves.

Accommodations are few and far between here, and most hikers use the nearby town of Potes, along the Rio Deva (Deva River), as a base. Quiet and snowboun in winter, Potes becomes a cosmopolitan climber's town in summer.

Walking in the Sierra de Guadarrama near Madrid

This pine-covered mountain range, halfway between Madrid and Segovia, is one of the most beautiful in central Spain. Particularly noteworthy are the alpine village of Cercedilla and the breathtaking mountain pass of Puerto de Navacerrada, the geographic border between Old and New Castile. Cercedilla is a town of picturesque alpine chalets and cow pastures. Its piscinas (pools), set below cascading waterfalls, are a popular summer attraction.

The peaks of Puerto de Navacerrada reach 6,102 feet and offer excellent views of the surrounding Castilian plains. Nearby, in the town of Rascafrfa, take a swim in La Laguna de Pefialara, a beautiful lagoon situated in a valley below the commanding mountain peak. Use either Madrid or Segovia as a base, but be forewarned: The weather here is wild, so dress warmly, even in summer.

Sierra Morena near Cordoba

Few travelers know of the Sierra Morena, and even most Andalusians have trouble placing it. Though not one of Spain's more dramatic mountain ranges (its highest peak rises to just over 4,300 feet), it is nonetheless an enjoyable and very relaxing climb. The best time to visit is in March and April, when the flowers are in full bloom.

Expect to be given a private performance by armies of frogs and turtles that live along the stream. Most often, they are a hiker's only companions. The Moorish towns of Cordoba and Jaen make the best bases and starting points.

Walking in the Sierra Nevada Granada

The tallest range in all of Spain is also the most challenging. Even in summer the weather is severe, with whipping winds and temperatures that drop considerably at night. The peaks of these mountains, Mulhacen (11,407 feet) and Veleta (11,128 feet), are best tackled as a day trip, using Granada as a base. Particularly rewarding is the 25mile (40km) route surrounding Las Alpujarras, the small white villages that line the range's base.

Capileira is the closest thing to a tourist center in the area, offering good accommodations and a few other adventurous activities; Those who decide to climb farther than Las Alpujarras should be no less than intermediate climbers, able to handle sudden wind changes and a fair amount of rough terrain. The region is best tackled in the summer, long after all the snow has melted. The highest peak on peninsular Spain and the country's ultimate vantage point is Mulhacen, often most accessible after May.

The area is noticeably secluded; wild goats and birds are often the only company. Nearby are the town of Trevelez, Spain's highest community, renowned for its ham, and the cozy hamlet of Pitres. An alternative route is a hike up Mt. Veleta. Buses run yearround and climb as high as they can; from midJune on, they can usually make it clear up the road to a point from which it's a treacherous three hour hike to the peak. Under clear skies, the view extends all the way to the Rif Mountains of Morocco.

The Torcal Mountains Antequera

Some 30 miles (48 km) north of Malaga, and just south of the tidy agricultural industrial town of Antequera, await two circular trails that will enthrall adventurous hikers who delight in exploring desolate rock gardens. The path marked with yellow arrows is about 8 miles (13 km); the red-arrowed tour covers about 12 miles (19 km). Both feature spectacular vistas of curious rock formations and begin and end in Antequera, at the refugio (refuge hut) at the base of the mountain. Information: Oficina de Turismo, Palacio de Najera, Antequera.

Pico del Teide Tenerife Canary Islands

Rising from the Cafiadas plateau, sur pi rounded by the 47mile (75km) Parque Nacional de las Canadas del Teide, is Pico del Teide, a massive dormant volcano and Spain's highest peak at 12,200 feet. Hikes here offer panoramic views of the Canaries and the northwest coast of Africa. Information: Parque Nacional de las Canadas del Teide, Tenerife.

Airport car hire in Spain

Whether you are planning a walking, hiking or sightseeing trip around Spain, you will still need to get to your destination, as Spain is a vast country, and the best way to do that is to pre-book airport car hire before you leave home. Car hire at the airport in Barcelona, Madrid, Malaga, Alicante, Valencia, and every other major airport in Spain can be booked online, which will save you time and money when you arrive in Spain.

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Things to see in Spain

It almost goes without saying that Spain is the land of the horse. It was here that the Moorish invaders crossed the Bab steeds of their homeland with the native Iberian stock that had provided mounts for conquerors from Julius Caesar to Richard the Lion Heart. They came up with a noble breed renowned for its sturdy legs, strong back, and agility the Andalusian.

Andalusian horses

Raising Andalusian thoroughbreds is still a tradition carried on at over 100 ranches in southwestern Spain.To witness the grace with which Andalusian horses perform classical European and Spanish dressage, a visit to Jerez de la Frontera's Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre is a must. This school was founded in 1972 by Alvaro Domecq, of the local sherry dynasty, who has since retired after year as Spain's topranked rejoneador, a bullfighter on horseback.

The 35 Spanish mounts are trotted out in their fancy dress gear every Thursday for a two-hour show entitled How the Andalusian Horses Dance. During the second week of May, the people of Jerez de la Frontera emerge blinking from their sherry vaults to welcome riding enthusiasts from all over the world for their annual weeklong Feria del Caballo (Horse Fair).
The festivities feature much dancing, handclapping, and fino drinking, as well as demonstrations of Spanish equestrian specialties, including the acoso y derribo, in which riders use long blunt poles to isolate one bull from a stampeding herd and overturn it.

The colorfully dressed riders then try their hand at doma vaquera, or Spanish rustic dressage, performing a series of showy maneuvers that climax when the horses approach at full gallop, then come to a dead halt before the judges' stand.

Best beaches in Spain

Welded to Europe by a thin strip of land reinforced by the Pyrenees Mountains, the Iberian Peninsula seems to have been made to maximize its shoreline. The fantastically varied blends of sea, sand, and civilization range from the bath tub like waters of the Mediterranean to the shivering shocks of the Atlantic surf, from the lonely and lush, mistsoaked greener)' of northwest Spain to the teeming glitz of the Costa del Sol and the stardust of Ibiza.

One way to choose a beach is by its lack of name recognition. Since many of Spain's most popular beach resorts are now being reduced to functional blots encased in concrete, visiting them is as much of a return to nature as going to lunch at a salad bar. Many visitors, therefore, carefully take the time to seek out remote and undiscovered ocean paradises, far removed from the sands of mass tourism.

Many others, however, head straight for the crowds. For those unable to avoid the large resorts, but wishing to escape the masses, try a visit in late August or September. The following, listed alphabetically, are our favorite sandy spots in Spain.

Mojacar Beach Almeria

This is indeed where many a parched cowboy squinted into the pretend Texas sun before whipping out his Colt 45. San Jose is the cape's only (barely) burgeoning resort, but the city of Almeria is only a short drive away, and the town of Mojacar just up the coast, though a long way around by road) clambers quaintly up a hillside a mile or two back from the shore and has a parador. Accommodations here are scarce and by no means luxurious, but the food is good and there are some bargain prices to be enjoyed.

Canary Islands beaches

An hour's water skiing from the coast of the Western Sahara the volcanic archipelago of the Canaries belongs technically to Spain, geographically to Africa, and physically to the moon. This is one of the main winter destinations for Europeans escaping the cold of the continent. Sometimes called the Fortunate Isles, the Canaries are bathed by the Gulf Stream and, with approximately the same latitude as Florida, enjoy a springlike climate throughout much of the year, with temperatures around 70F.

Although the islands have a sizable share of high-rise hotel resorts that crowd the beaches, there are also many stretches of unspoiled, sandy coastline, particularly on the islands of Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, and Grand Canary. Lanzarote's three tourist created resorts, Costa Teguise (a jet set spot north of Arrecife), Puerto del Carmen (south of Arrecife and the airport, a popular vacation spot with the tour crowd), and the less-developed, but more picturesque Playa Blanca (on the southern tip where some of the best beaches can be found), are fairly uniform, controlled by strict building codes that dictate, among other things, the height of the buildings.

There are white sand beaches on the tiny island of La Graciosa, off the northwestern coast of Lanzarote, and on the island of Fuerteventura to the south; the southeast coastline around Jandia and the quaint northern resort of Corralejo are particularly lovely, as are the deserted strands of Isla de Lobos across the water. The Playa del InglesMaspalomas area of the southern Grand Canary island has several miles of impressive dunes and whitewashed bungalow villages.

Tossa del Mar Beaches Costa Brava

The Costa Brava looks like a landscape painted by Cezanne - straight brush strokes of ocher cliffs rising from the flat blue base to a daub of pine tree green, the clean horizontals of Tossa's old port, and the vertical slice of a fishing boat's mast. The tow of Tossa del Mar lies in one of this weather beaten coast's many snug, sandy inlets; these once gave shelter to Phoenician sailors, but now provide exposure to Nordic bathers. Choose from Tossa's three beaches: Platja Grande, Mar Menuda, and Es Codolar, each as spectacular as the next.

If Tossa seems too tame after dark, or its medieval Villa Vella (Old Town) too antiquated, head for LIoret de Mar, a casino-powered resort where young people sizzle till dawn. If even Tossa seems rowdy, the clifftop Parador de Aiguablava in Begur offers contemplative views of the see through water 400 feet below and the seafloor rocks 40 feet below that.

Costa Cantabrica beaches

Santander, Cantabria This elegant city, almost as used to powdery snow as it is to powdery sand, is proud of the qualIty of its double life - its measured offseason pace and its summer pulsation of students, orchestras, and tourists, all drawn by Santander's spectacular beaches, its festivals of music and dance, and its summer university. Dense crowds and a rather rough Atlantic are the trademarks of the Playa del Sardinero, while the beaches on the bay are graced by those who prefer gentler surf. Comillas, some 40 miles (64 km) from Santander, is a quiet, still aristocratic resort, where visitors are more likely to run across a marquis than a marquee. The Playa Comillas, a wide strand where the titled sunbathe until they achieve the color of expensive leather, ends in a small pleasure port. The nearby Playa de Oyambre is twice as long, with half the tourists.

The Costa del Sol Marbella and Malaga

The Costa del Sol is a glittering avenue of lowslung bathing suits and high-rise prices, and Marbella is the center of Europe's wealthy worshippers of sun and self. The tennis courts and golf Courses are world class, but the primary sport here is people watching. The world's wet set finds shelter in the nearby yacht harbor at Puerto Banus, and the smoothness of Estepona's silky water is guarded from the rough and tumble of the Atlantic by the Rock of Gibraltar, visible from the town's wide beachfront. In the other direction, past Malaga , is the town of Nerja, with a parador, a clifftop boardwalk, and a set of spectacular caves scooped out by water flowing through them.

San Sebastian beaches

This pearl of a city on an oyster shell-shaped bay situated between the coast and the mountains is one of the most popular resorts in northern Spain (the Basque Country), where jai alai takes precedence over tennIs, and resIdents test their machismo in log chopping competitIons and run wIth the bulls in neighboring Pamplona every July. Believed to be descendants of the original Stone Age residents of the Iberian Peninsula, the Basques speak a language unrelated to Latin or Gaelic, or for that matter, any known language in the world.

Fortunately, almost all of them also speak CastilIan (SpanIsh),especially when dealing with tourists.Although the weather can be unpredictable in this part of Spain, during most summer months the beaches are thickly spread with oiled bodies. At sunset the crowds flow mto the streets of San Sebastian's Parte Vieja (Old Quarter), drifting between tapas bas and standup Counters, and dining on minicourses of fresh shrlmp, dried cod in tomato sauce, and squid in its own ink.

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Skiing in Spain

When most people think of skiing in Europe, they think of Switzerland, Austria, and France. Yet Spain, the second- most mountainous country in Europe, has excellent skiing facilities that seem to be one of the country's best kept secrets. In the north, there are the Pyrenees, which guard the border with France, and the Picos de Europa, between Cantabria and Asturias; in the south, the Sierra Nevada range, which rises 10,000 feet just Southeast of Granada; and in the center of the country, the Guadarramas, north of Madrid. In addition, there are ski areas in the provinces of Burgos, Soria, La Rioja, and TerueJ. Skiing is possible from January through May in the north, and from January through March in the south and lower elevations.

Spain offers novice through advanced skiers the thrills of a Iifetime. Once experienced, these hills will not Soon be forgotten. Spain is also one of Europe's bargain ski capitals; hotels, meals, drinks, equipment, and lift passes are available at prices far below those found in the Alps. Other benefits include an abundance of snow, relatively mild weather conditions, and plenty of sunshine. Some large international resorts, such as Tuca Betren, Baqueira Beret, and Cerler (all in Catalonia) and Pals (in Andorra) have it all - a vast array of runs and lifts, troops of multilingual instructors, a selection of other winter sports such as ice skating and tobogganing, an abundance of shops, shimmering hotels, high-speed nightlife, and the glossy aura of Europe's leisure classes. But there also are numerous cozier, family-oriented villages, many of them linked to a constellation of neighbors by far-reaching networks of chair lifts and cable cars.

Ski resorts in Spain

Throughout most of the resort regions, those who like their luxury rugged can hire a helicopter for a quick trip up a mountaintop blanketed with glittery virgin powder, and enjoy the subsequent opportunity to carve a Solitary trail back down through miles of untracked mountainside. Those whose special pleasure is crosscountry skiing should be aware that the sport is beginning to boom here; a wide choice of trails and excursions (and a good supply of the necessary equipment) is readily available. And no matter where you go, there's a very high standard of cooking in the restaurant dining rooms adjacent to the slopes.

Words of caution: If you need an English-speaking instructor from the area's ski school, say so when signing up, or risk having to learn to recognize Bend your knees enunciated in alltoofaultless Spanish. Know the local trail markings - green for novice, blue for intermediate, and red for expert. Be prepared for sometimes hair raising traffic both on the mountain roads and on the slopes.

Since skiing as a mass activity is a Juanito come lately in Spain, the average level of expertise is lower than is routinely found in Switzerland, France, or Austria, and the traditions of slope safety and etiquette are not always readily apparent. For those familiar with European skiing, be aware that the high and low skiing seasons in Spain are significantly different from those of the better-known Alpine regions.

All weekends are designated as high season, with premium prices on hotels, lessons, and lifts. High season also applies to the period from Christmas through New Year's, and the first week of January. Prices rise again during February and the first two weeks of March. What follows is a list of the best skiing spots in Spain, arranged alphabetically by province and town, followed by a review of the ski resorts in the tiny country of Andorra.

Cerler Huesca Aragon

Close to the French border, Cerler boasts 5,875 acres of spectacular terrain for skiers of all abilities. The 23 trails, the highest ski slopes the Pyrenees have to offer, provide plenty of challenges; the majority of the trails are over three miles long. There are 11 chair lifts. The resort also has an ice skating rink and a wide variety of other activities, including sledding and swimming.

El Formigal Huesca Aragon

Huesca, Aragon is a favorite stomping ground of the current king of Spain and his family, this is just one of five resorts in the area (Astun, Cerler, Panticosa, and Candanchu are the others). Together they constitute one of the most attractive and unspoiled regions in Spain, guaranteed to motivate even the most sedentary to hit the hills. As the western most resort in the Pyrenees, El Formigal lacks woodland, instead boasting great open spaces perfect for beginners and intermediates. Only two of the 24 runs are designated for experts, but most are rated as difficult.

The wideopen off piste possibilities compensate, however for those strong enough to handle heavy snow. A double chair lift rises out of the town, reaching the midstation and the main mountain restaurant. From here, beginners can enjoy gentle slopes, intermediates can drop down to the lower gondola station, and experts can take a chair lift or T-bar to the summit and enjoy a 3,000 foot drop back into the village. There is also a slalom course. The resort offers six hotels, and a wide variety of activities, including very lively nightlife.

Alto Campo Santander Cantabria

This is one of several spots where the skiing season lasts until late May. The resort lies in the Brana Vieja Valley, sheltered from harsh winds. On a clear day, the distant peak of Tres Mares, the Polaciones Valley, and the heights of the Picos de Europa are visible. The slopes here vary from easy to extremely difficult, making skiing enjoyable for enthusiasts of all levels.

La Molina Girona Catalonia

This is one of the oldest ski resorts in Spain, as well as the closest to Barcelona. For this reason, it attracts a weekend crowd that usually overwhelms the 8 chair lifts. During the week, however, there are rarely any lines. Only four of the 29 trails are listed as difficult, making La Molina a favorite with beginner and intermediate skiers. There is also a threemile crosscountry course, and three ramps for ski jumping. The resort was created with skiers specifically in mind, and features modern, self-contained hotels, good restaurants, a smattering of shops, and a group of lively discos and bars. Nine hostales are located nearby.

Vall Daran Lleida Catalonia

Past the orchards and vineyards of Catalonia and up into the Pyrenees Mountains bordering France lies one of the most beautiful alpine valleys in the world and the ski resorts of Tuca Betren and Baqueira Beret. Tuca Betnin, the lesser known of the two, offers a wide variety of slopes and trails that will challenge even the most experienced skier. In fact, all of the resort's 18 slopes and trails are marked either advanced or expert. The first trail starts at the 5,000 foot level; the highest peaks overhead top off at 9,000 feet. Eight miles (13 km) away is Baqueira Beret, one of the most extensive ski resorts in Europe outside the Alps. It attracts a predominantly French clientele from north of the border, although King Juan Carlos also is a frequent visitor.

The facilities and restaurants are more modern and sophisticated here than in Tuca Betren. Baqueira Beret offers 43 slopes and trails, 22 lifts, two slalom courses, and helicoPter service to the peaks for the thrills of fresh powder. Due to the terrain steep slopes and wide courses, there is great skiing variety. The skiing on the Baqueira side is down tight trails with a dense lift network of Tbars and double chair lifts. The skiing above Beret is in a wide open bowl served by three strategically placed triple chair lifts. Of special note is the descent from the peak of Cap de Baqueira, the highest point. Vall d'Aran's two distinct segments are separated by a row of natural stone and mortar villages, scenery for which the word charm was coined.

Much of this area looks the way it did in the 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries give or take a few power lines and Seats (Spanish built Fiats). This area has almost 5,000 rooms in hotels, inns, and quaint pensiones.

Sol y Nieve Sierra Nevada Granada

This resort whose name might be translated Sun 'n' Snow is a cluster of concrete buildings huddled above the tree line in the far south of Spain, only 20 miles (32 km) from Granada and 60 miles (96 km) from the coast at Malaga. Here, the perpetually snow-covered mountains rise to 11,420 feet. The scenery is inspiring and the snowfields are seemingly endless.

The skiing, though extensive, is tame and not particularly demanding, but it will keep advanced beginner and intermediates happy. With its wide, treeless slopes and patient Spanish instructors, Solynieve also is perfect for beginning skiers. The resort boasts 19 lifts, which serve some 30 miles of trails. The village itself is rather soulless; even the southern Spanish personality can't seem to help fire up the nightlife. Granada, a short trek down the mountain, makes up for this. But in the spring, Solynieve does offer dependable snow and the opportunity to ski in the morning and then drive down to the Costa del Sol for an afternoon of sun on the beach or a round of golf so be sure to pack sunscreen and sunglasses.

Car hire at Granada Airport Spain

If you are planning a trip to the Sierra Nevada to take advantage of the ski slopes, make sure you hire a car from Malaga or Granada Airport before you travel. You can save time and money by pre-booking Malaga Airport and Granada Airport car hire, and also pick up a map of the Sierra Nevada and Granada at the same time.

Andorra skiing

This tiny country, wedged into a few valleys of the Pyrenees between Spain and France, has abundant snow from November through April. Combined with an excellent climate of dry air and sunny skies, this is truly a skiers' paradise. Some of Europe's best inexpensive skiing can be found at the resorts of Pas de la Casa Grau Roig, Soldeu El Tarter, Pals, Arinsal, and Ordino Arcalis. Pas de la Casa Grau Roig, just within the French border, is the oldest resort, and has 18 trails for advanced skiers, a slalom course, and several tame slopes for beginners, as well as 25 lifts and 33 hotels.

Soldeu El Tarter is the largest complex, with 28 slopes (including five designed especially for children), a 7.5mile cross country course, 22 lifts, 20 hotels, and three self-contained apartment blocks. Pals features 20 trails, a forest slalom course, two children's slopes, and 14 lifts. Arinsal, next to the village of the same name, has 23 slopes ranging from beginner to expert, all served by 15 lifts. Ordino Arcalis is the most dramatically beautiful of Andorra's resorts, offering 16 slopes, 11 lifts, and four modern hotels in nearby El Serrat.

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The best festivals in Spain

In Spain, the calendar year is a kaleidoscope of celebration, a constant whirl of dancing, drinking, and devotion. There are festivals to honor saints, bulls, horses, flowers, grapes, and shellfish. There are symphony orchestras and blaring local bands, dancers in ballet slippers and on stilts, and evenings lit by chandeliers or fireworks.

The festivals provide a chance for young Spanish men to show off their skillsand the original machismoin climbing poles, wrestling bulls, or standing on each other's shoulders to form Catalonia's six-story castellers, or human towers. Each festival bears the trademark of its town, like the stomp, strum, clap, and yodel of Granada's Festival IntemacionaL de Musica y Danza (International Festival of Music and Dance) or the flowers and frills of Seville's Feria de Abril (April Fair).

Most festivals coincide with Catholic holidays, Camava Fiesta de Corpus Christl, and Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week before Easter) are celebrated everywhere but many still show traces of their pagan roots - the Hogueres de San Joan (St. John's Bonfires, celebrated in Alicante) mark the summer solstice. For a complete listing of events, contact the National Tourist Office of Spain.

A word of caution to those planning to hurl themselves into the merriment at one of Spain's frothiest celebrations: Crowds are very much a part of most festivals, so be prepared for crowded hotels, crowded restaurants, crowded streets, and crowded auditoriums. Advance planning will mitigate much of the discomfort so reserve rooms ahead of time but it's still necessary to be prepared mentally for being jostled, for waiting in line, and more for a can of warm cola all part and parcel of festival going.

For details on the most important festivals in Spain's major cities, including Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin; Semana Santa and Feria de Abril in Seville; Valencia's Les Falles de Sant Josep (Feast of St. Joseph celebration); and the Festa do ApostoL (Feast of St. James the Apostle) in Santiago de Compostela, visit the tourist office in Spain.

The Mystery of Elche Alicante Spain

The residents of Elche have been staging this religious dramaa celebration of the Assumption of the Virgin for more than six centuries, making it the world's longest. running play. Performances take place in the 17th century Iglesia de Santa Marfa (Church of St. Mary). While the songs feature an ancient dialect akin to Catalan, the action is actually fairly easy to follow, especially with the added benefit of breathtaking special effects (the descent of the angels from the church's lofty blue dome is a definite emotional highlight), Admission is free though competition for seats is keen.

The El Rocio Pilgrimage Spain

Pilgrims pour through the fields and olive groves of Andalusia in a slow stream of flower-festooned horses and beribboned oxen, converging on the rural sanctuary of EI Rocio, 40 miles (64 km) from Seville.

As in the grand finale of a Broadway musical, the white covered wagons and little surreys with a fringe on top trundle westward, flanked by extras in wide-brimmed hats and brightly colored, flouncy skirts, dancing to the music of flutes and tambourines. The festival mixes equal parts of fervor and fun. Pilgrims march silently at night over the candlelit marshes, then break out into foot-stomping, finger-snapping seguidillas. The climax comes with the parading of the statue of the Virgen del Rocio, hoisted on the shoulders of the faithful in a brilliant scene painted in sun, sweat, and tears.

The Horse Fair Jerez de la Frontera Andalusia

Jerez is famous for sherry and horses, and even has a museum devoted to both, but during May's Feria de Caballo, the steeds steal the show. Straightbacked riders in felt hats and embroidered uniforms canter through the streets, and carriage drivers guide harnessed teams through the myriad maneuvers of dressage.

All around the city, horses jump, trot, whinny, rear, gallop, spar with bulls, or simply stand still to be admired. The preening white Cartujanos with cottony manes are the graceful stars, descended from the horses the Moors rode during their conquest of Spain, and bred through the centuries in Andalusia. The fair is still faithful to its 13th-century origins as a livestock market; you may have come for the costumes, parades, and bullfights that are part of any Spanish festival, but if in a Walter Mitty life you ever cast yourself as a cowboy, or if you have a weakness for gambling, you just might ride away on your own, newly purchased, horse.

Santa Cruz Carnival Tenerife Canary Islands

Rooted in an ancient pagan rite, and mixed with the apocalyptic Catholic bingeing before the severity of Lent, this carnival has the flavor of a Spanish Halloween. It is celebrated for 12 days in February throughout Spain, but nowhere more extravagantly than on the island of Tenerife, where tradition melds with a Greenwich Village sense of fashion to produce wild parades and costumes that would have made Liberace look staid.

It is an orgy of purple make up, leopardskin leotards, sequined hats,
masks, feathers, capes, and wigs. Ornate carts function as mobile bandstands, stages, and puppet theaters, and the air is filled with strums and songs and wheezing clarinets.

Semana Santa in Castile La Mancha

This celebration froths over the sides of its cliff, leaving a frozen dribble of houses hanging in the gorge above the Rio Huecar (Huecar River). During Semana Santa (Holy Week), which leads up to Domingo de La Resurreccion (Easter Sunday), trumpets echo between the sheer, rock walls eerie calls from the Middle Ages to the modern world below. Above, austere processions, silent except for the solemn fanfares, wind slowly through the narrow alleys. Penitents carry sculpted and painted scenes from the Passion story, and members of religious brotherhoods (cofradas) march together in the forbidding robes and pointed hoods of the Spanish Inquisition.

A rowdy procession of Los borrachos (the drunkards), accompanied by drum rolls, is well attended by the local youth. Each evening, in a new auditorium built into the cliff, orchestras and choirs from all over Europe perform recitals of religious music ranging from somber motets to Wagner's mystical Tannhiiuser. Every year, a new work commissioned for the festival is played here for the first time.

Sacred Spain

All over Spain, every invasion, migration, and wave of conversion left its signature in stone, much of which has been all but erased by time and the furor of the Reconquest. As generations of Catholics poked at the hegemony of the Moors, finally pushing them back into North Africa in 1492, they destroyed mosques and erected huge cathedrals in their place. And despite the recently named calles de la juderfa (streets of the old Jewish quarter) that crop up in medieval neighborhoods, the statues of Maimonides, and the Star of David pendants for sale in trinket stores, not many traces remain of the thousands of Jews who, until their expulsion or forcible conversion that began in 1492, lived in Spain for centuries alongside Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, Berbers, Arabs, and Christians.

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Spain travel information

The Iberian Peninsula is like a hypothetical aisle marked Experience in a choice-laden supermarket full of good things that come in a variety of enticing packages. So just as sherry comes in fino, amontillado, manzanilla, and dulce, flamenco can be either raucous sidestreet strumming, a tourist sideshow in Granada's Cuevas de Sacromonte (Sacromonte Caves), or a whirl perfect spectacle on a limelit Madrid stage. Gazpacho can be eaten with a spoon or drunk with a straw, and there are endless varieties of seafood, from the hearty cod stews of the Basque Country and octopus of Galicia to the elaborate mussel and shrimp paella of Valencia. Nor do all Spaniards speak only Castilian.

There is a language similar to Portuguese spoken in the region of Galicia, a different form of Catalan in each of the regions of Catalonia including on each Balearic Island and the exotic (and impenetrable) tongue of the Basques, called euskera, that apparently isn't related to anything else on this planet.

The San Fermin Festival Pamplona

Iberia's range of flavors comes from its capacity for absorption. One of Spain's most notable painters, El Greco, was a Greek (as is the current queen, Sofia); the Bourbon dynasty was French; and an American popularized Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin (in recognition of which the city named a square for himPlaza Hemingway). The Americas contributed tomatoes, potatoes, chocolate, coffee, and the gold that decorated Toledan swords and made Madrid one of the most powerful cities in Europe. Africa gave Spain an architectural heritage and the microtonal wail of Spanish flamenco.

And Mother Nature bestowed on many parts of the country an often crushing heat that spawned such relaxing institutions as the afternoon siesta, the eveningpaseo, the strategically placed cafe, and the evening gathering around the motor scooter in a small town square.

Bullfighting Spain

Still, there are several experiences that capture the special spirit of this singular country, and provide a visitor with an insight into its irresistible personality. Bullfight in Pamplona, Navarre The corrida de toros, a Sunday ritual heralded by fanfare and pop, is an assault on all the senses: the ocher turf glaring in the late afternoon sun; the band's tinny blare; the gaudy, spangled costumes of the procession; the bandilleros' ballet; the coarse, feverish crowd watering its passion with warm wine squirted from bulging skins; the bull's thundering fury; the graceful arrogance of the matador; the swirl of the fuchsia and yellow muleta; the flash and plunge of the sword.

This celebration of life and death and grace under pressure, as Hemingway described it, is watched on television in living rooms and bars all over Spain. The president of the corrida (usually a local public official) sits in box seat high above the arena with a group of advisors, and decides when to begin each phase of the event. The matador's artistry and daring determine whether the president, like an emperor decreeing mercy or death for a gladiator, will award him one or two ears.

The crowd plays a major role by wildly waving white handkerchiefs at the president to show their support for the matador. An extraordinary performance will bring two ears and a tail. Each morning during Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin in July, the bulls for the day's corrida are sent galloping down narrow, barricaded streets on a 2mile route to the Plaza de Taros. The animals receive a measure of revenge when they gore some of the hundreds of brave (or crazy) men and a few women who, dressed in the red and white colors of the festival, race before the bulls (in 1994 more than 50 people were gored or otherwise injured).

Castles of Andalusia

It takes a car, a sharp eye, a love of detours, and a wellstocked picnic hamper to find the romantic, weed-strewn ruins of castles that once guarded every hill and port in Moorish Al-Andalus. Perched on cragtops, these worn, but still stern, battlements formed a Maginot Line along the tense border between the Muslim and Christian worlds of long ago, where the names of towns bore the epithet de la frontera (on the border). But this martial past acquires a latter-day peaceful haze if the scant remains are contemplated with the benefit of a bottle of wine, a hunk of manchego cheese, some smoky slices of jamón serrano, and a handful of Spanish olives.

Because the road to the top can be nearly vertical, it's probably best to leave the car in the olive grove or by the cluster of whitewashed houses that invariably cower in the castle's shadow. Count on being alone at the top, except perhaps for a state employee who is likely to be as lonely as the ruins he guards and will be more than happy to point out the storerooms, the water drains, the narrow L-shaped passageways meant to thwart a battering ram, the direction from which the Christians finally came, the best angle for a snapshot, and the precise plot in the distant cemetery where his grandfather is buried.

Tapas and patios in Cordoba Spain

Andalusia - The glare of the southern sun and the heady odor of orange blossoms are everywhere in Cordoba, settling on the city, seeping from the cobblestones, sliding through the painted shutters, making everyone sleepy and sultry and hot. A tapas bar is the perfect refuge for sodden sightseers and lounging locals, who gather in the grudging breeze from a creaking electric fan, nursing chilled sangria and gazpacho.

Beneath the glass counter are countless accompaniments to a glass of beermarinated mushrooms, shrimp in garlic sauce, olives seasoned with thyme, fried squid, bits of sausage, roasted sweet peppers with olive oil, smoked ham, spicy meatballsall available in the mouthfulsize portions that make them tapas and not a meal. Throughout the day, the floor becomes littered with shrimp tails, toothpicks, and crumpled paper napkins (it's traditional for patrons to let them fall to the ground).

For those who can bring themselves to step out into the sticky Andalusian summer, occasional cool gusts of comfort come from the patios not quite hidden behind wrought-iron grilles or wooden doors left ajar just enough for one to peer in and breathe deeply. Geraniums, jasmine, and lemon trees lovingly arranged against patterned, tiled walls offer sunstroked visitors a fresh, perfumed caress. The lushest and most colorful patios win prizes in Cordoba's twoweek Fiesta de los Patios in May.

Flamenco in Seville

The impromptu stomp, strum, snap, clap, and growl gets going around 1 or 2 AM in the working class district of Triana. The patrons of the earthy bars along the Calle Betis bring their own guitars and tambourines, the dancing is unrefined and improvised, and the singing is soulful and throaty. Flamenco grew out of a mixture ofsevillanas, liturgical chants, the call of the Moorish muezzin, and plaintive Gypsy folk tunes, catalyzed by the Inquisition into a music of guttural sounds lamenting the fate of the heathen in brutally Catholic Spain.

Although the song and dance performances tablaos in the more gentrified Barrio de Santa Cruz (where foreigners pay pricey cover charges) are filled with high artistry, this, with its rough edges and drinking and picking of pockets, is the real thing.

Extremadura Spain

The name means beyond the Douro River, where the local specialties are blackbull steaks and cured hams made from snake-fed pigs. Ride here in the spring, before the heat has burned away the tapestry of flowers and turned the rich, red soil a cracked and sunbaked brown.

At a leisurely canter, you can't help but savor the cork woods and chestnut groves that motorists mostly miss on their way to the hilltop monasteries of Guadalupe and Yuste. In some parts, you and your mounts will be the only visitorsfew cars ever make it up the stomachchurning curves through the forests of Las Hurdes, the northernmost part of Extremadura. There is some poetic justice in the stares you will attract as you ride into a dusty shepherd town, for it was Extremaduran peasants-turned-conquistadores who rode the first horses off Spanish galleons and into places like Mexico and Peruand were taken for half-equine gods.

The Royal Trail Castile Leon

Like children romping in a playroom shin-deep in toys, the kings and queens of Spain scattered palaces, gardens, and summer retreats all over Castile. They all can be visited, but take it slow, because if you try to retrace the dainty steps of royalty in one whirlwind day, your tour will melt into a sumptuous haze of polished wood and tarnished mirrors and the very chair where Carlos the Somethingth sat. Start at the Prado, once the storehouse for the king's art collection, to see court life through Diego Velazquez's keen, cruel eye for the pomposity, frills, and formalities of the 17th century.

His portraits of the royal family and paintings such as Las Meninas (The Maids of Honor) seem like sociological studies of how the other half a handful lived. The itinerary then spirals out from King Juan Carlos's current throne room in Madrid's Palacio Real, swooping through extremes of opulence: the once suburban, still idyllic Parque del Buen Retiro, a couple of uphill blocks from the Prado; the tapestried walls of El Prado, 9 miles (14 km) from Madrid on the road to the royal monastery of El Escorial; the passionate austerity of El Escorial itself, in the mountains above Madrid; the weave of graveled walks and marble stairways at Aranjuez, on the La Mancha plain 30 miles (48 km) south of Madrid; and the bursting geyser fountain at La Granja de San Ildefonso, outside Segovia.

Paradors in Spain

No visit to the Iberian Peninsula is complete without a visit or an overnight stay in a Spanish parador. Imagine sleeping where kings and queens lay their heads, walking corridors and chambers where medieval Franciscan monks trod, and dining in elegant rooms where nobles and aristocrats sat down to countless formal meals over the centuries. Many Spaniards pride themselves on their rich sense of such traditions, and for more than a half-century their government has been building a network of impeccably restored and converted ancient landmark castles and monasteries into magnificent hotel accommodations, offering travelers a return to the past, complete with modernand often luxurious facilities.

Spain's first parador (an inn that offers food and shelter to travelers) was introduced west of Madrid in the Sierra de Gredos in 1928, when King Alfonso XIII opened a lodge to be used primarily as a base for hunting excursions. This concept of lowcost accommodation (often in areas that, though lovely and historic, were considered unpromising by many commercial hotel concerns) became so popular that it eventually expanded into the world's most successful program of transforming long-abandoned national treasures.

Many of the paradors are restored convents, palaces, manor houses, monasteries, and castles, filled with original decorations and antique furnishing. Other paradors are constructed of gleaming marble and boast the latest modern touchesincluding swimming pools (mostly outdoor), golf courses, and other sports facilities. All have good or even fine restaurants serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and featuring regional specialties and wines. All also carry the red, white, and rose wines bottled under the parador label by a quality Rioja winery.

Not all paradors are for everyone. Most of the rooms are doubles furnished with twin beds. Travelers who want a double bed should request a room with a cama de matrimonio, but be advised that normally there are only a few per parador. Some paradors are remote, located on the outskirts of town (requiring a car to get to most sightseeing stops). Travelers unable to climb stairs should inquire about elevators, since some paradors do not have easy access to all rooms and public areas. Rooms are equipped with TV sets and minibars, though not all have radios or air conditioning.

Although it is possible to travel through Spain from parador to parador by hire car, without reservations, this practice is not recommended. Ask the parador concierge to call ahead to determine availability and to make reservations. Rates are seasonal in the majority of the paradors, but some have one price structure yearround. Low season runs from November through March, midseason is from April through June, and high season is from July through October.

Car hire at the airport in Spain

If you are planning a trip to Spain, hire a car from the airport before you fly. Car hire at Malaga Airport, Madrid Airport, Alicante Airport, Murcia Airport, Valencia Airport and Barcelona Airport can be pre-booked which will save you time and money when you arrive at your destination.

The Parador del Golf Torremolinos

This parador (built in the 1970s), between the resort centers of Torremolinos and Malaga on the Costa del Sol, is a golfer's paradise. The 18-hole course was designed by English architect Tom Simpson, and it has a resident professional and a well-stocked pro shop. Besides 60 air conditioned rooms, it also boasts an ocean-front location, a circular swimming pool, tennis courts, a playground, a library, and gardens. Thanks to its nongolf facilities, this place is also popular with vacationing families.

The Parador de Almagro Castile La Mancha

Don Quixote loved the region of La Mancha, and so will any guest staying in this former 16th-century Franciscan convent. The air conditioned rooms are built around no fewer than 16 galleried inner patios, and the building abounds in decorative touches that recall its original function. It also features gardens, a wine cellar, a swimming pool, and a convention hall. The parador's popularity often exceeds its room capacity, so make reservations well in advance.

The restaurant is especially good, featuring imaginative presentations of the region's raw materials, fabulous desserts, and an excellent selection of reservas from the wine co-operative of nearby Daimiel. From May through October Almagro's main square becomes an open-air theater for classical work performed by topnotch national and international companies. The town is also famous for its lace.

Parador de Chinchon Castile la Mancha

This lovely village, a half hour's drive southeast of Madrid, is primarily known for its anisette liqueur, its Semana Santa (Easter week) recreation of Christ's crucifixion and res. urrection, and its summer amateur bullfights in the main square. Fourteen years ago, the town's 17th-century convent was transformed into a parador with 38 air conditioned rooms. The interior is adorned with murals, wall 'tapestries, and other ornate furnishings, and there's a wonderful glass.

walled circular hallway overlooking a beautiful court yard a perfect Spot for afternoon tea. The parador also boasts a chapel, a garden with winding paths and goldfish ponds, a swimming pool, and a convention hall.

Parador San Marcos Castile Leon

One of the most impressive hostelries in the country, this converted 16thcentury monastery hosted pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela for centuries. Travelers making the trek from Madrid to northern Spain today find this parador, with its 16th-century coffered ceiling, Plateresque exterior, and grand staircases, a perfect stop. The 256 air conditioned rooms make it the largest property in the parador network. Facilities include gardens, a nightclub, a hair salon, a childcare center, and a convention hall.

Parador Virrey de Toledo Castile la Mancha

According to legend, this massive medieval stone castle was built by Hercules' army, and later housed powerful Spanish and Moorish lords and kings. Today it looms over a valley of squat olive trees and small farms, about 72 miles (117 km) from Toledo.

A short walk from Oropesa's Plaza Mayor, this 48-room air conditioned parador is just 2 miles (3 km) away from the small town of Lagartera, famous for its lacework. Local women still can be seen sitting outside their homes and practicing this centuries-old craft. Facilities include gardens, a swimming pool, and meeting rooms.

Parador Zurburan Guadalupe Extremadura

Adventurous travelers should take a ride south from Oropesa to the town of Guadalupe in the province of Caceres to visit the Monasterio de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (Monastery of Our Lady of Guadalupe) and the 40room parador now occupuying a former hospital adjacent to the monastery.

The unearthing in the late 13th century of a long-buried statue of the Virgin Mary was the reason for the construction of the monastery (the statue is now enshrined on the altar). Queen Isabella stayed here in fact, the building was used for the signing of contracts with explorers setting out for the Americas.

Today the parador offers magnificent sunset views of the town and monastery grounds nestled in the mountains. The air conditioned rooms look out over a central courtyard with Moorish-style gardens.

Parador Gil Blas Santillana del Mar Cantabria

This peaceful manor house and former home of the local Barredabracho family, helps visitors to envision what life was like centuries ago in Cantabria, a verdant region next door to the Basque Country, on Spain's north coast. The building is made of heavy stone walls and arches, and the 56 rooms feature woodbeamed ceilings, tile floors, rustic furnishings, and all the amenities.

Shopping in Spain

No mattcr where the pound stands relative to the euro, the temptation of shopping in Spain is irresistible. Colorful handpainted tiles and lovingly sewn handicrafts are eyecatching, easily luring the visitor into the country's many stores and openair marketplaces. Although there are no great bargains anymore, the quality is high and there's a wide array of leather goods, embroidered items, jewelry, fine porcelain, and fashion ranging from very basic handicraft sweaters and clothing to haute couture.

Spaniards are traditional strollers

They take to the streets as a pastime, particularly for browsing in the plethora of small specialty shops found in most cities. But the relaxed ambience and threehour lunchtime shop closings (except for major department stores) mean that visitors must make careful shopping plans. Standard shopping hours in Spain are weekdays from 9 AM to 1 or 2 PM, and following an afternoon break, again from 3 or 4 to 7 or 8 PM. Many shops also stay open on Saturdays from 9 AM to 1 PM. In smaller towns and cities, some shops may close one day a week in addition to Sunday (most typically on Monday).

Department stores are open Mondays through Saturdays from 10 AM to 8 or 9 PM. Many shops are closed in August, but department stores remain open year-round.

What to buy in Spain

The following is an item by item guide to what to buy in Spain. For listings of recommended shops in Spain's major metropolises.

Antiques Spain

Spain is an excellent hunting ground for antiques, with a wide range of dealers, auction houses, and non-commercial institutions that offer many items at bargain prices. For additional details, see Antiques and Auctions in this section.

Books and maps Spain

Even if you're not able to read Spain's treasured old books, it's still fun to browse. Many bookstores have dozens of shelves and stalls filled with books both old and new from around the world; some stores specialize in reducedrate and secondhand books, old editions, and rare titles. Much of Spanish literature is printed in both Spanish and English; for students of Spanish, there are few better ways to practice than by reading one of the classics in its original language.

Spanish ceramics and tiles

The diversity of Spain's regions is highly evident in the country's wide range of ceramics. The 700-year Moorish domination prevails in ceramic designs of the southern regions, where wall plates are enameled and trimmed in 24-karat gold. Later, when the English settled in the area around Cadiz, florals and busy scenic designs became the preferred style. One major ceramics center is the town of Talavera de la Reina, an hour south of Madrid and 45 minutes to an hour west of Toledo.

Designer Clothes Spain

Spain demonstrates a cosmopolitan flair for fashion, especially in the cities and towns close to the French border. Spanish designers have emerged as strong rivals to French and Italian creators. Their fashions are provocatively alluring and au courant, yet usually keep a classical line. Whatever the latest trend, visitors can rest assured that the fashions are up to date in Spanish cities.

Embroidery and lace Spain

In Spain, embroidery prices are determined by the intricacy of the stitch, not by the size of the item. Look carefully: Stitches made by a human hand cannot duplicate themselves over and over, and will therefore lack consistency; the more perfect the stitch, the more likely that an item was machine made.

Palma de Mallorca, on the Balearic island of Majorca, is known for its beautiful handmade embroidered items. Toledo and the nearby village of Lagartera are famous for their embroidery, lace, and needlework. In Lagartera, where the best La Mancha embroidery originates, every cottage has its own display of the freeform floral stitching, which decorates silk hangings, tablecloths, peasant bonnets, and full skirts.

Food and wine in Spain

Food shopping in Spain is a pleasure, probably because local customers are so demanding. Everything is fresh - sometimes so fresh that food stores hang unskinned rabbits in their windows. Unskinned rabbits and most non-canned meat products, however, cannot be legally brought back to the US (nor can soft cheeses or fruits and vegetables).

Some typical Spanish foodstuffs that can, though, include olive oil; turron (nougat candy), found all over Spain, especially around Christmas; mazapan (marzipan), found all over and a particular specialty in Toledo; azafron (saffron); mojo picon (hot sauce) from the Canary Islands; queso manchego, a hard goat cheese from Castile's La Mancha region but sold throughout Spain; and, of course, alcohol (Spain also is well known for its wines, especially Catalan champagne, Andalusian sherries and cognacs, and table wines from the northcentral Rioja region east of Burgos).

Spanish souvenirs

Spanish porcelain pieces, particularly the LJadro figurines, are collectors' items. The Lladro factory is located in Valencia, along the Mediterranean coastline. There is also a factory store that sees hard to distinguish seconds for one third to one half off retail. Spanish ceramic and porcelain tableware and giftware are well made and exported worldwide.
Spanish jewellery

There are excellent jewellery bargains in Spain. Look for the famous Majorca pearls, but watch out for imitations. There is only one authentic brand. Look for the official agency seal and for the unique l0-year International Certificate of Guarantee that comes with each piece. Sizes run from 4 to 14 millimeters in diameter, in hundreds of combinations. The pearls can be found throughout Spain, but the factory is in Manacor, on the island of Majorca. Cordoban silver filigree pieces are another favorite souvenir item. Pieces of bronze, gold, and silver in contemporary designs are also widely available. Fine gold jewelry, by law, is 18 karat.

Leather goods in Spain

Spanish leather items are subtle, soft, and a good value. Most leather on the Iberian Peninsula comes from sheep and lambs; cows produce a heavier quality skin that's made into jackets and coats. There are thousands of stores selling leather jackets, coats, gloves, pocketbooks, wallets, and other items. Generally speaking, shoppers can tell the quality of the leather by the feel. The softer it is, the better (and the more expensive).

Spanish vineyards

Spain has a longstanding enological tradition. Since the days of the Phoenicians and Greeks, sweet wine has been made in southern Spain. Under the Romans, wine production spread throughout the country and was eventually brought to the Americas along with the Spanish conquistadores.

Today, Spain is the world's third-largest wine producer. Until recently, Spain had more acreage devoted to vines than any other European country, but due to an excess of wine in the European Union, many Spanish vineyards have been uprooted or abandoned under an EU incentive plan. Much like Italy, production is fragmented and spread over a wide area, with 65% of it managed by 600 cooperatives comprising more than 100,000 members.

Running the full range from the aperitif and dessert wines of Andalusia to the brut cavas of the Penedes and a fine assortment of brandies, Spain's viniculture is a vast and varied adventure in good drinking. In addition to the famous Rioja reds, Spain produces a large assortment of other vino tinto (red wine), the best hailing from the temperate northern climes.

Navarre wine Spain

East of the Rioja region, Navarre makes full-bodied, fruity red wines from the same Rioja grape varieties; south of the Rioja along the Duero Valley, the Ribera del Duero appellation is gaining increasing cachet; and Catalonia's Penedes and Lleida areas produce some of the country's best red wines from native grapes, as well as from such acclimatized varieties as the cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and pinot noir. Less sophisticated, but still eminently drinkable, are the reds of the central La Mancha plateau and the regions around Valencia and Alicante.

Though vino blanco (white wine) is produced throughout Spain, the vintages of Rioja and Catalonia have earned international renown. The Rioja whites, often made with the native viura grape, were formerly matured in oak but are now mostly cold-fermented in stainless steel to retain the crisp freshness of the fruit. La Mancha now produces a flowery white from the airen grape, and the fastrising Rueda appellation relies on verdejo or sauvignon blanc.

In Galicia, the whites have a light, natural effervesence, while Jerez produces a small amount of table wIne from the sherry grape. Admission fees are rare at Spanish wineries, and the bodegas (wine cellars) are accustomed to receiving visitors. Even those that have regular visiting hours tend to close for a couple of hours each day between noon and 3 PM. Many wineries sell a selection of their products on the premises; if not, local wines can usually be obtained at nearby shops.

(light reds or roses) and dry whites. There are dozens of vineyards in the Rioja, with the most important ones found in Logrono (the region's cap: tal), Haro, Cenicero, and Fuenmayor.

Bodegas Herceo

Established in 1872, this winery in Haro, some 30 miles (48 km) from Logrono, makes fresh, fruity whites and roses, fruity young reds with good color, and well rounded reserva reds with body and acidity. Visits must be arranged in advance.

Bodegas Campo Viejo

Visitors to the regional capital will enjoy wines from the eel. lars of this enormous bodega. The whites and roses are young and fruity; the reds, mature, aromatic, and light on the palate. Visits must be arranged in advance.

Bodegas Marques de Caceres

This Cenicero winery, located 14 miles (22 km) from Logrono, has made quite an international name for itself since opening in 1970. Its whites and roses are fresh and fruity, and its reds are full-bodied, smooth, and long. Visits must be arranged in advance.

Catalonia Wines

This region in the northeast corner of Spain borders the Mediterranean and produces a great variety of wines; the best known are those of the Emporda (reds and roses), Alella (dry or sweet whites), and the Penedes (whites and reds). But the Catalan pieces de resistance are the champagnelike sparkling wines known as cavas, produced in brut, see, and demisec varieties. Since 1872, when Spain produced its first bottle of cava, the country has become one of the largest producers of sparkling wines in the world. Although cava is made by the methode champenoise, or Champagne method, it is not a budget substitute for champagne, since the native parellada, macabeo, and xarello grapes give it its own distinctive regional characteristics. About 95% of Spanish cava comes from the Penedes, with the majority of producers grouped around the town of Sant Sadurni d'Anoia.

Penedes wines Spain

Table wines are also produced in Penedes, which spreads across the south of Barcelona province and the northeast of Tarragona province. The careful harvesting and elaboration of base wines to create sparkling wines have given rise to highquality whites that are fruity and fresh and have an alcoholic strength of between 9% and 13%. The roses are similar to the whites, and the area also produces light, smooth reds.

Bodegas Miguel Torres

Founded in 1870, this winery makes premium wines from cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay grapes, as well as fine popularly priced red, whites, and roses. A 30seat tour bus transports visitors around the winery and through the vineyards. Open daily.

Codorniu Spain

Since 1551, the Codorniu family has been producing still wines. In 1872, it produced Spain's first cava. Now a national monument welcoming more than 200,000 visitors a year, the winery produces more than 45 million bottles of cava annually in its underground wine cellar network extending 15 miles on five levels. These pale yellow sparkling wines have a flowery aroma and lovely flavor. The winery is closed Friday afternoons, weekends, and August.

Jerez wines

Among the world's most popular aperitif wines, genuine sherry comes only from the region of Jerez de la Frontera at the southern tip of Spain. Produced in great cathedral-like bodegas, these wines are continuously blended, the younger and older wines mixing in a series of casks that constitute the solera (blending). The result: virtually no vintage sherries and a quality that is absolutely consistent from year to year.

The predominant grape varieties are palomino fino, palomino jerez, Pedro Ximenez, and muscatel. The four standard styles of sherries are finos (pale, dry, and light, often with a hint of bitter almonds), manzanillas finas (very dry, with the tang of the sea air of their native Sanlucar de Barrameda), amontillados (amber sherries with more depth and body, and a nutty flavor), and olorosos (dark and fragrant, dry in their natural state, but often sweetened with Pedro Ximenez wine to achieve the rich, raisiny creams that elegantly top off a meal). In addition, pale cream is a new stylea light, medium sherry with a touch of sweetness.

Gonzalez Byass Spain

Established in 1835, this winery produces a fine range of finos olorosos, and sweet sherries. It also offers a unique ritual, featuring a mouse that climbs a miniature ladder to sip a daily dram of sherry from a glass Set out expressly for it. Visits are on weekdays only, and must be arranged in advance through the public relations department.

Pedro Domecq

A maker of wines since 1730, Domecq produces the full range of sherries in its vast facilities. All visits must be arranged through the public relations department; the winery is closed on weekends and during August.

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Airport car hire in Valencia Spain

Airport car hire in Valencia, Spain can be pre-booked from the airport before you travel. You can also pick up a map of Valencia at the car hire office at the airport, to help you navigate your way around the region.

Things to do in Valencia Spain

Valencia is known the world over as the home of paella, possibly the most international of all Spanish dishes. But this city, an agricultural capital that is Spain's third largest population center, offers far more than seafood, sausage, and rice. The city has, as its local cheerleaders say, mucha marcha - lots of life. Like nowhere else in Spain, the residents of Valencia took to the Moors' love for flame and fireworks, still evidenced in the city's falles, riotous celebrations that draw tens of thousands of visitors every March. The cafes of the Ciutat Vella (Old City) abustle with people year-round, and the economy thrives.

But Valencia is a rose with thorns. The Ciutat Vella, set along an elbow of the Rio (River) Turia, is surrounded by a depressing sprawl of working-class housing blocks, and many travelers bypass it in favor of the better-known sites to the north and south. However, it's in the Ciutat Vella that you find the architecture, museums, and unusually rich historical heritage of what once was one of Spain's most powerful kingdoms. Valencia lies at the heart of the huerta (orchard), a crescent of alluvial plain made fertile by a complex irrigation system that has been in use for some 2,100 years.

History of Valencia

Water has transformed the area into an agricultural paradise: a flat, rich plain covered with millions of orange trees and numerous market gardens, flower nurseries, and nut tree orchards. Everything depends on the precious water of the Rio Turia, and the elected judges of Valencia's Water Tribunal have been meeting every Thursday since the Middle Ages outside the cathedral to settle disputes. The proceedings are open to the public and are held in Valencia (Valencian, a dialect of the Catalan language).

The Romans founded Valentia in 137 BC on the site of the previous Greek settlement of Thuris (Greeks, Phoenicians, and Carthaginians sailed the coast in this area and traded with the native Iberians long before the Romans arrived on the scene; the name Turia is still in evidence today, attached to the local river, streets, and some publications). The city eventually fell into the hands of the Visigoths and, in the 8th Century, the Moors (some of whom were Arabs but most of whom were North African Berber tribesmen), who invaded the peninsula from northern Africa.

El Cid and the Moors in Valencia

It was the Moors who gave the region many of its most trademark features - its orange groves, the palm trees that line its avenues, the glazing techniques that made its ceramics famous, tremendous improvements to the irrigation system still in use today, fireworks, silk, and rice, which is grown in paddies to the south. In the centuries following the Christian reconquest of Valencia, all Moorish landmarks were razed, leaving only a bathhouse that today is closed to the public. The first of the Catholic liberators was El Cid, the legendary hero from Burgos who took the town in 1094 and died here five years later. Following his death, his brave wife, Doña Jimena, was unable to maintain the Christian hold on the city, and it slipped back under Moorish control for another 150 years.

Valencians regard King Jaime (James) I of Aragon, known as the Conqueror, as their true liberator. Following a five month siege, the warrior king marched into the city in triumph one September day in 1238, granting its Christian inhabitants special rights, or costums, in return for their allegiance to the crown of Aragon. During the Middle Ages, the Black Death ravaged the city twice, and a violent pogrom in Valencia's old Jewish quarter set off popular attacks on Jews and converted Moors.

Vicent Ferrer, a brilliant but virulently bigoted Valencian cleric who was later saint d and made patron of his native city, delivered inflammatory anti-Semitic diatribes and helped frame discriminatory laws aimed at religious minorities. When the Holy Inquisition came to the city in 1482, at least 100 Valencians were burned at the stake for refusing to convert. This sad story of religious intolerance would be brought to a climax about 130 years later, with the expulsion from Spain of the last remaining 170,000 converted Moors in 1609

The Bourbons in Spain

The Bourbons (called los borbones in Spanish) came to rule Spain in the early 18th century via the War of the Spanish Succession, in which Valencia, along with Aragon and Catalonia, backed the defeated Habsburgs. The city paid for its mistake with the Nueva Planta decree of 1707, which stripped it of its ancient rights and generated resentment that still exists today. The kingdom became a province; its viceroy, a captain general sent from Madrid.

For better or for worse, Valencia has since been involved in just about every war and rebellion in Spain, winning a gritty reputation for independence and liberalmindedness. In 1808, led by one Father Rico, the populace stormed the city arsenal and rose bloodily against Napoleon's occupying troops; Marshal Louis Gabriel Suchet managed to restore French rule only four years later. Over the following decades, Valencia was a hothouse of conspiracies, plots, and failed uprisings, notably the Republicaninspired insurrections of 1856 and 1864. A rebellion during the Revolution of 1868 was settled only with an artillery bombardment of the city.

True to its liberal past, Valencia fought on the losing side during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). For most of 1937, with Madrid under siege, Valencia became the Republican capital. It was shelled and bombed until it finally fell to Generalissimo Francisco Franco's Nationalist rebels. In the decades of repression that followed, the local language was almost stamped out; but after Franco died, it made a strong comeback and is now widely spoken. The city is now the capital of the comunidad valenciana, also known as Valencia, one of Spain's 17 comunidades autonomas (autonomous Communities). It comprises Valencia province along with Alicante (Alacant in valencian) and Castellon de la Plana.

The city today of Valencia has the feel of an overgrown agricultural capital, despite its heavy industry and sprawling development. Although past its age of glory, Valencia boasts one exceptional and famous 20th century writer: Vicente Blasco Ibanez (1867-1928), best known to English speakers for Sangre y Arena (Blood and Sand), possibly the finest novel ever written on bullfighting.

One of the great attractions of Valencia is precisely that it is not a major tourist attraction. With its many industries (furniture and ceramics foremost among them), and the grim industrial port of El Grao, it can be offputting to the casual passerby. But visitors soon find it to be a charming, a place with a good deal of local character. Valencians are less affecte than most residents of the Mediterranean coast by the onslaught of tounSln in recent decades, so most have a genuine desire to show the visitor why their city deserves a second look. Valencia At aGlance
Places to see in Valencia.

For those who don't mind a grueling, 207 step climb, a perfect view of the city can be had from Valencia's most popular monument, El Migueleze (in valencia, Micale!), the cathedral's 14th century octagonal belltower on the Plaga de la Reina. Clustered around the tower are all the principal buildings of the Ciutat Vella, and the visitor sees a vista of bridges over the Rio Turia bed, bluedomed churches, and the fertile huerta stretching beyond the ends of the city's streets.

Special places to visit in Valencia

Valencia's last set of city walls was torn down in 1865, but almost all af the city's main monuments and museums are within the relatively small area they once enclosed, now called the Ciutat Vella. The quarter is defined to the north by the bed of the Rio (River) Turia (which has been rerouted farther away from the city to solve the chronic flooding that had long plagued the Ciutat Vella), and on the west, south, and east by Avenida de Guhlem de Castro Calle de Xativa, and Calle Colon, respectively.

Keep in mind when planning visits that in Valencia, as in other Spanish cities, churches, museums, historic sites, and other places of touristic interest are usually open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 1 or 2 PM and then again from around 4 or 5 to 7 or 8 PM; schedules may change with the seasons. Some museums are open mornings only, and weekend hours are also often abbreviated. Closing days tend to be Sundays or Mondays. If possible, it's best to call for exact hours.

Valencia Cathedral

Angled oddly into a corner of the Plaza de la Reina, the main square of the Ciutat Vella, the cathedral (also known as La Seu) is a mixture of styles, as reflected in its three portals, which are Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque. Construction was begun in 1262 on the site of a mosque razed by the Catholic conquerors. Although the basic structure of the cathedral was completed towards the end of the 13th century, the main chapel and some side chapels were not completed until the 18th century.

Highlights include the tower, the Gothic dome, the chapter house, and the main altarpiece, which depicts the life of Christ on six panels. The main chapel contains the pulpit used by Vicent Ferrer to give some of his apocalyptic orations, and one of the leading Spanish candidates for the true Holy Graila muchrevered agate cup, set with emeralds and pearls on a base of pure gold. The church also boasts some fine paintings, including the Baptism of Christ by Juan de Juanes, but the real art treasures are housed in the Museo de La CatedraL, which contains works by Zurbaran, Juan de Juanes, and others. Notice also the Goya paintings in the museum.

The Basilica in Valencia

An arcade connects the cathedral to this eliptical building, which was completed in 1667 and is said to have been the first mental asylum in the world. The structure contains fine frescoes by Antonio Palomino on the interior of the dome, and a sculpted image of the Virgin of the Forsaken, the patroness of Valencia, that was supposedly sculpted by angels. On the Festa de La Verge (Feast Day of the Virgin), the second Sunday in May, and during the Festa de Corpus Christi, the Virgin is carried through nearby streets in processions marked by showers of rose petals and other flowers. Plaza de la Verge.

The Provincial Fine Arts Museum Valencia

Many people come to this first-rate art museum, one of Spain's best (but least-visited), just to see the small, brooding self-portrait painted by Velazquez in 1640. While this is its single unquestioned gem, the museum also houses an interesting collection of Valencian religious primitives of the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries.

These paintings are remarkable for their graphic, naive vigor: Blood gushes from Christ's sword wound into a goblet in one painting; the lactating Madonna spouts milk fro her swollen breasts ito he mouth of the infant Christ in another. Downstairs, there are early Iberian and Hispano-Roman artifacts. There is also a small treasure of works upstairs from Francisco Ribalta (who died in Valencia in 1628), Ribera, Murillo, El Greco (St. John the Baptist), Van Dyck, Hieronymus Bosch, and Goya, who once taught at the fine arts academy that runs the museum.

Nex door to the fine arts mseum, this small paradise of rose gardens, bouganvillea, palms, mimosas, jacarandas, cypress, and myrtle trees also has a diminutive but pleasant zoo. The gardens and the zoo are open daily.

The Silk Exchange Valencia

This structure in the heart of the Ciutat Vella is the finest example of Gothic architecture in a city renowned for the genre. In addition to an array of gargoyles, the facade features a series of fantastic and often even erotic small figures. The first room is the main Lonja de La Seda, a great vaulted hall supported by 24 twisting columns reminiscent of massive hanks of silk; on Fridays from 1 to 3 PM, fruit wholesalers hold auctions reminiscent of 16th-century silk fairs here. Next to this hall is the tower of La Lonja, said to have once served as a prison for bankrupt silk merchants. A remarkable circular stairway, with no central support, leads from a courtyard of orange trees to an upstairs hall noted for its elaborately gilded and carved wooden ceiling.

The Central Market Valencia

One of the finest and largest market buildings in Spain is made even more delightful by the colors and smells of the products of the huerta, along with the azulejos (glazed tiles) showng Valencian citrus fruits and vegetables. Built in 1928, the market is a fine example of Valencian modernism, and is visually similar to a turn-of-the-century railroad station, with glass skylights supported by an elaborate framework of iron girders. The market offers a quick taste of modern Valencian life.

The Natural Ceramics Museum Valencia

The amazing facade of this 18th-century rococo palace was designed by the painter Hypolito Rovira, who died in a Valencian mental aylum in 740. Its main entrance is a riotous alabaster fantasy of crocodIles, Cupids, a Virgin with Child, and two men spilling jugs of water the two waters of the Marques de Dos Aguas. The building now houses the Museo Nacional de Ceramica, Spain's leading ceramics museum. The gilded and tiled interior of the building, a kind of Hollywood version of a European palace, is a showcase of centuries of excellent pottery and azulejos from the outlying towns of Paterna, Alcora, and Manises, beautifully glazed work that was widely sought across Europe in the late Middle Ages.

In other rooms, there are works by Picasso, a Valencian tiled kitchen, and pottery from other regions of Spain and abroad.

The Bullfighting Museum Valencia

Almost hidden away in a covered concourse next to the bullring, one of Spain's leading taurine museums is filled with bullfighting memorabilia. The collection includes examples of 19th-century bullfighting garb; savage-looking lances, swords, and pics; the suits of lights worn by some leading toreros when they were gored; and the stuffed heads of some of the bulls. Valencia was for many centuries a leading city for bullfighting, though its reputation has fallen off in recent decades.

North Station Valencia

Many visitors, whether arriving by train or not, take the time to visit this charming railroad station, one of the most beautiful in Europe. Both the interior and exterior are decorated with azulejos bearing such Valencian motifs as oranges, the huerta, and barracas, the region's traditional thatch-roofed houses. The ticket counters and the cafeteria are especially delightful.

The Serranos Towers Valencia

The 14th-century gate next to the northern Puente Serranos (Serranos Bridge) was fully restored in 1930 and remains an imposing fortified arch. A second gate, another remnant of the medieval walls, is the 15th-century Torres de Quart, nearby on Avenida de Guillem de Castro. Like a proud old warrior, it still bears the scars of French cannonballs from the Peninsular War (1808-1814), waged by Napoleon against the British, the Portuguese, and the Spanish guerrillas.

The Institute of Modern Art Valencia

Hard by the remnants of the old city walls (in fact, a vestige of the medieval ramparts protrudes into one of the galleries) not far from the Torres de Quart, this is one of a recent crop of museums in Spain devoted exclusively to modern art. The collection is housed in two locations - an ultramodern stone and glass building called the Centre Julio Gonzalez and, in complete contrast, a nearby restored 13th to 16th century Carmelite convent called the Centre del Carme.

In addition to the permanent collection of some 1,400 pieces (paintings, drawings, and sculpture by Julio Gonzalez, a lifelong friend of Picasso, form the nucleus), the Centre Julio Gonzalez has an auditorium, a restaurant-bar, and a bookshop. It's also host to a year-round schedule of changing exhibitions and special cultural events.


The Music Palace Valencia

Across the Puente Aragon (Aragon Bridge) from the Ciutat Vella, Valencia's concert hall, built in the now dry bed of the Rio Turia in 1987, is a rather bizarre mix of reflecting pools, palm trees, small temple-like structures, and a main building that resembles an exceptionally swank greenhouse. It is known to locals as the micro ondas (microwave) because of its initial lack of air conditioning, and its designers also failed to 'include a system to clean its vast glass surfaces leading the city to hire mountaineers to do the job. Apart from performances, the building is open for group tours if arrangements are made in advance.

Places to visit near Valencia

The town of Manises was a major pottery center in the Middle Ages, when emissaries from the richest courts of Europe vied to buy its fine wares, characterized by distinctive blue and white patterns. While otherwise unattractive, the town today is packed with ceramics factories and retail shops, many of which sell good reproductions of pieces in Valencia's Museo Nacional de Ceramica at bargain prices. Manises is about 41 miles (7 km) west of Valencia, and is well served by city buses.

Sagunto near Valencia

In 219 BC, the Iberians, the first inhabitants of this fortified rocky ridge, set their possessions and themselves afire rather than surrender to the Carthaginian general Hannibal. The Romans eventually rebuilt the town, and it was successively held by the Visigoths, the Moors, and, in the 19th century, the French. Today, the archaeological site at Sagunto has an impressive 8,000seat amphitheater, as well as an ancient castle acropolis, and nearly half a mile of mostly Moorish medieval walls and ramparts.

An old Roman forum is marked by a huge broken stone marked with the letters FORV. The long ridge occupied by the fortifications provides a dramatic 360-degree view of orange groves, the surrounding mountains, and the Mediterranean.

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Things to do in Toledo Spain

Cervantes hailed Toledo as that rocky gravity, glory of Spain and light of her cities. Indeed, throughout its history, the city has been a shining center of scholarship and spirituality. The Romans founded the city of Toletum in 193 BC on a site originally settled by a tribe of Celtic Iberians. The city was part of a Visigoth kingdom in the 6th and 7th centuries, then was invaded by the Moors in 712. For centuries it flourished as a city of silk and steel where clergy, merchants, and the military peacefully coexisted under Moorish rule.

Even when King Alfonso VI and El Cid recaptured the city for Christendom in 1085, a cosmopolitan tolerance endured. Christians, Muslims, and Jews cooperated in intellectual exchange and trade, and for nearly five centuries, Toledo enjoyed a reputation throughout the Mediterranean as a center of learning. Alfonso the Wise, King of Castile, grew up in this heady cultural mix and founded the influential Escuela de Traductores (School of Translators) here during the 13th century.

The history of Toledo Spain

Under his rule, Castilian Spanish became the official language, replacing Latin. His court of Jewish scholars made esoteric Greek and Arabic science (as well as Islam and Judaism) accessible to the people of northern Europe. Alchemists studied and worked alongside mathematicians and philosophers. Prosperity brought commissions for mudejares (pronounced mooday harace), or Mudejars, who were Moors staying on under Christian rule. Their exquisite craftsmanship is characterized by intricately ornamental plaster ceilings and sumptuously patterned tile and brick wallsmuch of which can still be seen in Toledo's chapels, synagogues, hospitals, and palaces.

The city, however, was also the seat of the Catholic Church in Spain, and eventually the full weight of the church pressed down to obliterate or banish rival religions during the Spanish Inquisition. An abrupt pogrom in 1355 and a 1391 massacre at a synagogue subsequently turned into a church called Sinagoga Santa Maria la Blanca (White St. Mary) were early warnings that Toledo's tolerance would not last, regardless of local traditions.

After Ferdinand and Isabella summarily expelled unconverted Jews from Spain in 1492, the Jews of Toledo who refused to be baptized were either banished or killed. Seven years later, 4,000 Toledan Moors were baptized as Christians. After Queen Isabella's death in 1504, her husband, the aging King Ferdinand ruled from Toledo. When the new king, Carlos I of Spain, inher ited the mantle of Holy Roman Emperor in 1519 and became Charles V Toledo became an imperial city.

In addition to Spain, Charles commanded Naples, Sicily, Sardinia, Germany, FrancheComte (Burgundy), and the Low Countries, as well as the American lands newly plundered by the Conquistadores. But resentment quickly grew against the king and his Court of foreigners. Between 1520 to 1521, Toledo's Juan de Padilla joined with Juan Bravo of Segovia in a local citizens' revolt, known as the Comuneros uprising, which was quickly crushed.

In 1556, just five years after he assumed the throne, Felipe (Philip) II, son of Charles V, moved the capital to Madrid. Toledo, however, remained the spiritual center of Spain. To distance himself from the established church, Philip decided to build a state palace north of Madrid that would overshadow the great ecclesiastical splendors of Toledo. Eager artists from all over Europe competed for commissions at El Escorial, but one Cretan painter, Domenikos Theotokopoulos, soon fell from Philip's favor and was dismissed. He set up his studio in Toledo, where he became known simply as El Greco (the Greek).

Today, it is El Greco's skewed, Mannerist vision of Toledo, with its rolling clouds over elongated figures and startling clashes of color in almost geometric compositions, that most visitors come to see. Indeed, the skyline has not changed measurably since he completed his View of Toledo. The artist's adopted hometown has no shortage of his work. In fact, it's rare to find so many of a major artist's paintings still in the place they were created.

After the capital was moved to Madrid, Toledo's status as merely the capital of La Mancha province and the fact that far more politically significant prizes were within striking distance spared this city from the worst of the battles that ravaged Spain in succeeding generations. But the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) was fought here with full fury. The huge restored Alcazar, which dominates the highest ground in Toledo and was once rebuilt by Charles V as a royal residence, was besieged for a grim two months in the summer of 1936. Francisco Franco's Nationalist rebels held out against the Republican government forces despite blasts of dynamite that collapsed much of the fortress, formerly the most prestigious military academy in the nation.

Fortunately, today Toledo faces no more threatening an onslaught than the hordes of visitors who inevitably get lost in its tangle of narrow alleyways. City residents resolutely provide directions, respond to queries in countless languages, and rarely lose their graciousness. When the last tour bus pulls away at dusk, however, Toledo is returned to the toledanos and, it seems, to its past. This is the best time to explore the twisting byways of this ancient city, finding the way back by remembering the coats of armS carved in stone on the buildings along your route.

Car hire in Toledo

To explore Toledo, take a hire car from Barajas Madrid Airport, which can be pre-booked before you travel, saving you time and money. Cheap