A sightseeing tour of Madrid
The atmospheric Plaza de la Paja was during the Middle Ages the market for cattle feed and straw (Spanish: paja). Further south lie three interlinked squares. As the name suggests, Plaza Puerta de Moros recalls the former Moorish town gate which once stood here. Plaza de la Cebada (Barley Square) was the centre for the sale of cereals. A stroll around the large Mercado de la Cebada will almost certainly whet your appetite. Finally, off the Plaza del Humilladero, Carrera de San Francisco leads up to the Basilica de San Francisco el Grande.
More things to do Madrid
According to legend, the basilica is built on the site of a hermitage where St Francis of Assisi stayed during a pilgrimage to Spain. The classical facade of this huge domed structure (1774) was the work of Francisco Sabatini. The gloomy interior suffered badly during the Civil War, and since the 1970s no funds have been available to renovate the crumbling structure so it has had to be supported by scaffolding.
It is nevertheless worth taking the half-hour tour (only in Spanish) as the art collection includes some important pieces, such as those by Zurban'in and Sanchez Coello. An early Goya, the Sermon of St Bernardino de Siena (1780), adorns one of the six chapels. As the Panteon Nacional, San Francisco contains the last remains of some famous Madrid architects, e.g. Ventura Rodriguez and Juan de Villanueva.
If you are feeling like a bite to eat, then you are sure to find something to suit you on one of the two parallel roads, formerly moats, Cava Baja and Cava Alta. Several traditional restaurants along Cava Baja serve Castilian roasts dishes.
In royal monasteries the illegitimate daughters of the Habsburgs found a home that suited their station in life. The Bourbons filled the chambers in the Palacio Real with countless works of art and the cultivated Marques de Cerralbo did likewise in his private palace.
Plaza de España Madrid
By Plaza de España, General Franco satisfied his delusions of grandeur by building Spain's first skyscraperbehind the backs of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. Artlovers simply must view the unique Goya frescoes in the Ermita de San Antonio. The twin towers belonging to the Collegiate Church of San Isidro Labrador dominate the junction of Calle de Toledo and Calle de la Colegiata. Built in the 17th century for the Jesuits, it was dedicated to the patron saint of Madrid. When the Jesuits fell out of favour with Carlos III, San Isidro became Madrid's cathedral. But the bishops always regarded the elevation to cathedral of a church in a rather undignified location alongside a row of houses as only a temporary measure.
When La Almudena was consecrated in 1993, San Isidro lost its special status. Baroque stylistic features dominate the interior. The remains of the saintly farmhand, who Iived between 1080 and 1172, are kept in a silver urn close to the main altar.
When returning to Puerta del Sol, follow Calle Cuchilleros and pass Madrid's oldest restaurant, EI Sobrino del Bolin, which has been serving traditional Castilian fare since 1725. On the left-hand side, hidden between narrow alleyways, are two picturesque Old Town squares: the shady Plaza del Conde de Barajas G, a venue for a small art market on Sundays, and the Plaza del Conde de Miranda together with the 17thcentury Las Carboneras convent where the nuns sell homemade pastries through the gateway window.
Pass the attractive Arco de Cuchilleros, a staircase up to the Plaza Mayor, and you will return to Calle Mayor. Start out from the Puerta del Sol and initially take the traffic-free Calle Preciados shopping street northwards, before turning left into the narrow Callejon Preciados by the Corte Ingles department store.
The Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales
The Monastery de las Descalzas Reales is by the Plaza de Descalzas.
Dona Juana, a daughter of Carlos V, converted this Renaissance palace into a convent in 1554. Only women from the upper echelons of the ruling Habsburg family, including many widows and illegitimate daughters, retreated behind these walls to find solace away from secular life. The close link with the monarchy was never broken, so that these 'Royal Barefoot Sisters' could enjoy a lifestyle which matched their standing. On display in the staircase, which leads to the upper gallery of the cloister, is a magnificent collection of frescoes, while in the gallery itself is a series of finely decorated chapels. In the main chancel lie the remains of the most celebrated nun, Empress Maria of Austria, a sister of the convent's founder.
A 14-piece collection of tapestries based on cartoons by Rubens adorn the former dormitory. Works by Rubens, Brueghel the Elder and the Spaniards Jose de Ribera and Francisco Zurban'in can be seen in the former kitchen. The famous Tribute Money by Titian is a replica of the painting in Dresden. Some 26 Franciscan nuns still live in the retreat. Depending on the current programme the grand Sala de las Alhajas by the neighbouring Plaza San Martin (1870), an arts foundation set up by the Caja de Madrid, is usually worth visiting. By the busy Calle del Arenal shopping street stands the Iglesia de San Gines . Founded in 1358 it was last altered in 1958.
In the right-hand chapel (Capilla del Cristo) hangs El Greco's Expulsion of the Money changers from the Temple. The west end of Calle del Arenal forms Plaza de Isabel Teatro Real II. Overlooking the statue of the queen is the huge facade of the Teatro Real. The Madrid opera has not had a happy career. Work started on the building in 1831, but a shortage of money meant that it was 1850 before its doors finally opened. The hexagonal opera house was closed for decades during the 20th century, with director Garda Navarro staging the house's first performance in 1997-98.
At Arenal stands the Palacio de Gaviria. A seriously rich banker by the name of Manuel Gaviria had this neo-Baroque palace built in the middle of the 19th century. For many years, its ballrooms were frequented by welltodo Madrid society. A club of the same name continues the dancing traditions but now salsa rhythms and disco sounds resonate from the ornate rooms.
Take Calle de Arrieta to the Plaza de la Encarnacion, where, as well as a memorial to the poet Lope de Vega, stands Madrid's second Habsburg convent, Monasterio de la Encarnacion; The design for the complex, completed in 1616, was drawn up by the architect responsible for the Plaza Mayor, Juan Gomez de Mora. Founded by Margaret of Austria, the wife of Felipe III, it is still used as a convent. Of special interest inside are the Painting Room, with such works as John the Baptist by Jose de Ribera, and a macabre reliquary chamber, where not only bones and scraps of material from sacred robes are stored, but also a phial of St Pantaloon's dried blood which, according to legend, liquifies each year on 27 July, the saint's feast day. It is an ill omen if the miracle does not take place.
Plaza de Oriente Madrid
Between the Opera House and the Royal Palace lies Plaza de Oriente, a broad square for which the people of Madrid can thank Joseph Bonaparte. The equestrian statue at its centre immortalising Felipe IV was brought here in the 19th century from the Buen Retiro palace complex. The trusty steed rearing up on its hind legs is by the Italian sculptor, Pietro Tacci. Cast in bronze in 1640, it was at that time a masterpiece of engineering.
The Royal Palace Madrid
Built from light grey granite and limestone, the vast Palacio Real was clearly built to impress. Situated in a dominant position overlooking the Rio Manzanares, its dimensions alone are stunning (500m/1 ,650ft along each side).
It was built by the Bourbon, Felipe V, with four wings and an inner courtyard, after the Habsburg residence, which shared the same foundations as a Moorish alcazar, was burnt to the ground on 24 December, 1734. Giovanni Battista Sacchetti from Piedmont was appointed as chief architect. Externally, the building displays classical Italian features, but in the 2,000-plus rooms it is lavish late Baroque which predominates.
As long as no state functions are taking place, the palace is open to visitors (access from Plaza de la Armeria). As a rule only 30 to 50 rooms are open at anyone time. With such a wealth of magnificent furnishings in dazzling gold brocade, silk and velvet, and walls hung with paintings by masters such as Goya and Velazquez, visitors are sometimes overwhelmed by the extravagant decor.
The Salon de Alebarderos Madrid
One of the highlights is the Salon de Alebarderos (Hall of the Halberdiers) with its striking ceiling painting, Apotheosis of Aeneas by Gianbattista Tiepolo (1766) and tapestries woven to designs by Raphael (17th century). In the Throne Room another of Tiepolo's ceiling frescoes glo rifies the empire and its rulers. Paintings by the Bohemian master, Anton Raphael Mengs (1728-79), adorn the pri vate apartments of Carlos III, while in the State Dining Room are hundreds of sparkling chandeliers and cande labra. In the small Salon de las Porcelanas (Porcelain Room), the walls and ceilings are covered with ceramic tiles from the Fabrica del Buen Retiro.
The collection of armaments, rusty sabres and rifles displayed in the Real Armeria (Royal Armoury) is one of the largest in Europe, while the dusty Real Botica (Royal Pharmacy) and the Museo de Carruajes (Carriage Museum) in the Campo de Moro park give some insights into everyday life at the royal court.Admire the view of the cathedral and the Casa de Campo. Alternatively you may feel like a relaxing stroll. If so, you have the choice of the adjoining Jardines de Sabatini and the larger Campo de Moro, which extends down to the banks of the Rio Manzanares (entrance off Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto). Campo de Moro means Field of the Moor and refers to the Almoravid prince, Ali ibn Yusuf, whose troops set up camp here in 1109.
More things to do Madrid
According to legend, the basilica is built on the site of a hermitage where St Francis of Assisi stayed during a pilgrimage to Spain. The classical facade of this huge domed structure (1774) was the work of Francisco Sabatini. The gloomy interior suffered badly during the Civil War, and since the 1970s no funds have been available to renovate the crumbling structure so it has had to be supported by scaffolding.
It is nevertheless worth taking the half-hour tour (only in Spanish) as the art collection includes some important pieces, such as those by Zurban'in and Sanchez Coello. An early Goya, the Sermon of St Bernardino de Siena (1780), adorns one of the six chapels. As the Panteon Nacional, San Francisco contains the last remains of some famous Madrid architects, e.g. Ventura Rodriguez and Juan de Villanueva.
If you are feeling like a bite to eat, then you are sure to find something to suit you on one of the two parallel roads, formerly moats, Cava Baja and Cava Alta. Several traditional restaurants along Cava Baja serve Castilian roasts dishes.
In royal monasteries the illegitimate daughters of the Habsburgs found a home that suited their station in life. The Bourbons filled the chambers in the Palacio Real with countless works of art and the cultivated Marques de Cerralbo did likewise in his private palace.
Plaza de España Madrid
By Plaza de España, General Franco satisfied his delusions of grandeur by building Spain's first skyscraperbehind the backs of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. Artlovers simply must view the unique Goya frescoes in the Ermita de San Antonio. The twin towers belonging to the Collegiate Church of San Isidro Labrador dominate the junction of Calle de Toledo and Calle de la Colegiata. Built in the 17th century for the Jesuits, it was dedicated to the patron saint of Madrid. When the Jesuits fell out of favour with Carlos III, San Isidro became Madrid's cathedral. But the bishops always regarded the elevation to cathedral of a church in a rather undignified location alongside a row of houses as only a temporary measure.
When La Almudena was consecrated in 1993, San Isidro lost its special status. Baroque stylistic features dominate the interior. The remains of the saintly farmhand, who Iived between 1080 and 1172, are kept in a silver urn close to the main altar.
When returning to Puerta del Sol, follow Calle Cuchilleros and pass Madrid's oldest restaurant, EI Sobrino del Bolin, which has been serving traditional Castilian fare since 1725. On the left-hand side, hidden between narrow alleyways, are two picturesque Old Town squares: the shady Plaza del Conde de Barajas G, a venue for a small art market on Sundays, and the Plaza del Conde de Miranda together with the 17thcentury Las Carboneras convent where the nuns sell homemade pastries through the gateway window.
Pass the attractive Arco de Cuchilleros, a staircase up to the Plaza Mayor, and you will return to Calle Mayor. Start out from the Puerta del Sol and initially take the traffic-free Calle Preciados shopping street northwards, before turning left into the narrow Callejon Preciados by the Corte Ingles department store.
The Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales
The Monastery de las Descalzas Reales is by the Plaza de Descalzas.
Dona Juana, a daughter of Carlos V, converted this Renaissance palace into a convent in 1554. Only women from the upper echelons of the ruling Habsburg family, including many widows and illegitimate daughters, retreated behind these walls to find solace away from secular life. The close link with the monarchy was never broken, so that these 'Royal Barefoot Sisters' could enjoy a lifestyle which matched their standing. On display in the staircase, which leads to the upper gallery of the cloister, is a magnificent collection of frescoes, while in the gallery itself is a series of finely decorated chapels. In the main chancel lie the remains of the most celebrated nun, Empress Maria of Austria, a sister of the convent's founder.
A 14-piece collection of tapestries based on cartoons by Rubens adorn the former dormitory. Works by Rubens, Brueghel the Elder and the Spaniards Jose de Ribera and Francisco Zurban'in can be seen in the former kitchen. The famous Tribute Money by Titian is a replica of the painting in Dresden. Some 26 Franciscan nuns still live in the retreat. Depending on the current programme the grand Sala de las Alhajas by the neighbouring Plaza San Martin (1870), an arts foundation set up by the Caja de Madrid, is usually worth visiting. By the busy Calle del Arenal shopping street stands the Iglesia de San Gines . Founded in 1358 it was last altered in 1958.
In the right-hand chapel (Capilla del Cristo) hangs El Greco's Expulsion of the Money changers from the Temple. The west end of Calle del Arenal forms Plaza de Isabel Teatro Real II. Overlooking the statue of the queen is the huge facade of the Teatro Real. The Madrid opera has not had a happy career. Work started on the building in 1831, but a shortage of money meant that it was 1850 before its doors finally opened. The hexagonal opera house was closed for decades during the 20th century, with director Garda Navarro staging the house's first performance in 1997-98.
At Arenal stands the Palacio de Gaviria. A seriously rich banker by the name of Manuel Gaviria had this neo-Baroque palace built in the middle of the 19th century. For many years, its ballrooms were frequented by welltodo Madrid society. A club of the same name continues the dancing traditions but now salsa rhythms and disco sounds resonate from the ornate rooms.
Take Calle de Arrieta to the Plaza de la Encarnacion, where, as well as a memorial to the poet Lope de Vega, stands Madrid's second Habsburg convent, Monasterio de la Encarnacion; The design for the complex, completed in 1616, was drawn up by the architect responsible for the Plaza Mayor, Juan Gomez de Mora. Founded by Margaret of Austria, the wife of Felipe III, it is still used as a convent. Of special interest inside are the Painting Room, with such works as John the Baptist by Jose de Ribera, and a macabre reliquary chamber, where not only bones and scraps of material from sacred robes are stored, but also a phial of St Pantaloon's dried blood which, according to legend, liquifies each year on 27 July, the saint's feast day. It is an ill omen if the miracle does not take place.
Plaza de Oriente Madrid
Between the Opera House and the Royal Palace lies Plaza de Oriente, a broad square for which the people of Madrid can thank Joseph Bonaparte. The equestrian statue at its centre immortalising Felipe IV was brought here in the 19th century from the Buen Retiro palace complex. The trusty steed rearing up on its hind legs is by the Italian sculptor, Pietro Tacci. Cast in bronze in 1640, it was at that time a masterpiece of engineering.
The Royal Palace Madrid
Built from light grey granite and limestone, the vast Palacio Real was clearly built to impress. Situated in a dominant position overlooking the Rio Manzanares, its dimensions alone are stunning (500m/1 ,650ft along each side).
It was built by the Bourbon, Felipe V, with four wings and an inner courtyard, after the Habsburg residence, which shared the same foundations as a Moorish alcazar, was burnt to the ground on 24 December, 1734. Giovanni Battista Sacchetti from Piedmont was appointed as chief architect. Externally, the building displays classical Italian features, but in the 2,000-plus rooms it is lavish late Baroque which predominates.
As long as no state functions are taking place, the palace is open to visitors (access from Plaza de la Armeria). As a rule only 30 to 50 rooms are open at anyone time. With such a wealth of magnificent furnishings in dazzling gold brocade, silk and velvet, and walls hung with paintings by masters such as Goya and Velazquez, visitors are sometimes overwhelmed by the extravagant decor.
The Salon de Alebarderos Madrid
One of the highlights is the Salon de Alebarderos (Hall of the Halberdiers) with its striking ceiling painting, Apotheosis of Aeneas by Gianbattista Tiepolo (1766) and tapestries woven to designs by Raphael (17th century). In the Throne Room another of Tiepolo's ceiling frescoes glo rifies the empire and its rulers. Paintings by the Bohemian master, Anton Raphael Mengs (1728-79), adorn the pri vate apartments of Carlos III, while in the State Dining Room are hundreds of sparkling chandeliers and cande labra. In the small Salon de las Porcelanas (Porcelain Room), the walls and ceilings are covered with ceramic tiles from the Fabrica del Buen Retiro.
The collection of armaments, rusty sabres and rifles displayed in the Real Armeria (Royal Armoury) is one of the largest in Europe, while the dusty Real Botica (Royal Pharmacy) and the Museo de Carruajes (Carriage Museum) in the Campo de Moro park give some insights into everyday life at the royal court.Admire the view of the cathedral and the Casa de Campo. Alternatively you may feel like a relaxing stroll. If so, you have the choice of the adjoining Jardines de Sabatini and the larger Campo de Moro, which extends down to the banks of the Rio Manzanares (entrance off Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto). Campo de Moro means Field of the Moor and refers to the Almoravid prince, Ali ibn Yusuf, whose troops set up camp here in 1109.
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