Seville Cordoba and Granada
One of the most passionate and beautiful cities in Spain, Seville offers visitors plenty of things to see and do. From its incredible baroque cathedral to its cobbled streets and tapas bars, there is something for everyone in this vibrant city.Seville's main shopping street is the Calle Sierpes. This is the place for fashionable clothes as well as more typical fare, from fans to ceramics. Martian offers a pleasing display of Sevillian ceramics and poltery. Zadi has a serious collection of fans, mantillas and Lladro porcelain, while the old-fashioned Marquedano stocks a classic range of Andalusian hats.
More things to do Spain
To the east, the Plaza de Jesus de la Pasion is the city's matrimony corner, with several jewellery shops. Beyond the northern end of Calle Sierpes you come to the Plaza del Duque de la Victoria, with Spain's largest department store, EI Corte Ingles.
Shopping Seville
the corner on Calle Alfonso XII Sevilla Rock sells Spanish pop and guitar music including flamenco and sevillanas. For ceramics, La Alacena (further down Alfonso XII, at No 25) has top of the range china and crockery from La Canuja factory (now on the Carretera de Merida). Puerta Triana (corner of Calle Santas Patronas and Calle Reyes Catolicos) has a less expensive selection of painted plates, bowls and jugs while across the bridge in Triana, Cenmica Santa Ana (Calle San Jorge ) is a rambling show room with enough antique and modern azulejos.
On the east side of the Maestranza bullring, Jamon Reall Esther Fernandez Fdez. (Calle Lopez de Arenas 5) sells Extremaduran wines, meats and cheeses, marmalade and homemade wines and liqueurs (it also has a small bar where you can sample products); there's another branch, Jamon Real II, at Calle Pastor y Landero Being a university town, Seville has many good book shops. One of the best is Venice, across from the Old Tobacco Factory on Calle San Fernando.
Things to buy in Cordoba
The English word 'cordwainer' is derived from Cordoba and testifies to the city's long tradition of high quality leatherwork. In the area bordering La Mezquita you'll find studios and cobblers' workshops, such as the one at Calle Magistral Gonzalez Frances 7 which specialises in riding boots.
Silver filigree (filigrana de plata) is also common. Look out also for two distinctive types of ceramic plate: the green and white Caliphal pottery based on 10th century Arab designs, and the dark green pottery from Lucena. Montilla wines and anis flavored licor from Rute are other specialties’.
In the small shops and stalls on the Plaza de la Corredera you'll find tyresoled sandals, iron rings for hanging up flowerpots, barbecue utensils and wickerwork chairs, baskets, hampers and linen chests. Near the Ayuntamiento the guarnicioneria Rafael Estevez Lopez (Calle San Pablo 6) sells saddles, riding tackle and woolen blankets while the Zoco, the old souk opposite the Synagogue on Calle Judios 5, is the headquarters for Cordoba Association of Craftsmen, many of whom have their shops here. Il is a good place to browse for silver filigree, jewellery, leather work and ceramics.
Granada souvenirs
Granada's souvenirs play heavily on the city's Moorish past embossed leather, marquetry chessboards, inlaid furniture, and a distinctive blue and green pottery known as jajalauza are the most obvious examples. The Albaicfn is the best place to chance upon these but you'll also find them in the Cuesta de Gomerez at the foot of Alhambra hill. Woven products from the Alpujarras mountains are worth looking at the Tejidos Fortuny workshop (Plaza de Fortuny I) has attractive rugs and wall hangings.
Granada's main shopping area lies south and east of the cathedral. Calle Pescaderia has small friendly shops selling meats and cheeses and a stall opposite the Bar Boca has good jajalauza pottery. You may find interesting bargains in the Alcaicerfa (the old silk market). For a spot of self-indulgence, buy a box of mouthwatering cakes from Flor y Nata (Calle Mesones 51) or Lopez Mezquita.
Markets
Markets are the best place to buy fresh food from the countryside: honey, goats' cheese, spiced meats, snails, seafood, olives, nuts, bread and fruit. Produce markets usually start early and pack up around I pm.
In Seville every district hosts its own daily fresh produce market there is one in the Plaza de la Encarnacion and another across the Triana bridge (turn right), on the site of the old Inquisition headquarters. There is a small weekday arts and crafts market outside EI Corte Ingles in the Plaza del Duque de la Victoria. In the north of the city there's a centuries old flea market on Thursday in Calle Feria known as 'EI Jueves'.
Nearby in the Alameda de Hercules a similar bric-a-brac market takes place on Sunday mornings. At the same time there's a bird and pet market (including silkworms) in the Plaza de la Alfalfa, and a stamp and coin collector's market in the Plaza del Cabildo.
In Cordoba the main market venue is the Corredera. In the week a covered mercado sells fresh produce while stalls outside sell fabric, clothes, plants and household items. On weekends this becomes a flea market.
Granada's nicest market is in the Plaza Larga in the Albaicin, but you'll find a belter range in the Mercado de San Agustin on the southwest corner of the cathedral.
Eating and drinking in Seville Cordoba and Granada
In cities like Seville, Cordoba and Granada people never seem to stop eating. Mornings are when work gets done and breakfast is but a meditative moment. Anything goes as long as it's quick: coffee and brandy, chocolate and churros (extrusions of sweet battered dough), bread dunked in olive oil, toast and dripping all taken standing at the bar. By II am the mood shifts cake wards or to an elevenses ice-cream, but by noon the emphasis changes again as the bar staff start putting out their freshly made tapas.
By 7pm it's time for the paseo and an obligatory ice cream, after which the tapas appear again around 5pm. Restaurants are in action by 9pm but rarely full before 10pm at weekends they will still be serving new customers at midnight. After dinner, it is time for an oloroso, a sticky cake. Seville claims to have invented tapas (snacks and appetizers) and can even tell you the bar where this national custom originated:
EI Rinconcillo (near the Santa Catalina church, Calle Gerona 40) where the staff developed the habit of covering a glass of fino with a tapa (lid) of ham. Today tapas are found everywhere and can be anything from a saucer of spiced olives or some slices of jamon serrano (mountain ham) to a gourmet dish of oranges, onions and bacalao (dried cod), or a hot terracotta dish of paella.
A tapa or porcion is simply a taster, while a racion is a small dish, often cooked. Lunch is the best time for raciones the daily menu will be written on a board or the dishes just put out on the counter. Often the bill turns out to be as costly as a meal but the taste of fino and gambas (prawns), or a cerveza (beer) and boquerones (anchovies in garlic and vinegar), is quintessential Spain. If you're a serious tapas addict head straight for Seville to investigate Modesto (Calle Cano y Cucto 5) or the Hosteleria del Laurel (Plaza de los Venerables) in the Barrio Santa Cruz and Casa Manolo (Calle San Jorge) in Triana.
Most bars have an alarming array of mountain hams and spiced sausages suspended from the ceiling, all tagged like prize antiques. You could also try some salchichon (salami), chorizo (red spicy sausage) or morcilla (blood sausage) while habas con jamon (broad beans with ham) is a typical Granada dish. Gazpacho is another famous Andalusia creation, a chilled soup based on bread and olive oil and flavored with vegetables and herbs usually tomatoes, garlic and peppers. The Cordobans make their own, thicker version called salmorejo while ajo blanco is a white soup from Malaga based on garlic, almonds and fruit.
In restaurants look for regional dishes large fish are often served with a saffron, paprika or tomato sauce while zarzuela is a fish stew with a spiced tomato sauce. Fried fish can be bought in takeaway freidurias. Desserts always include a choice of fresh fruit or ice cream but in better quality restaurants you'll be able to dither over tarta de almendras (almond tart), crema de membrillo con queso (quince jelly with cheese), pastel cordobis (puff pastry with candied fruit) or the tocino de cielo (caramel custard) from Cadiz.
Andalusia's most famous drink is sherry, a fortified wine from Jerez de la Frontera. Tthe Spanish will drink it with a meal and indeed whenever they can find an excuse. It is the classic complement to tapas. Fino is the most common drink a light, dry sherry, always served chilled. Amontillado is mellower with a nutty flavor and an amber hue. Oloroso is mature, dark and rich, often drunk as a dessert wine. Palo cortado is richer than amontillado but lighter than oloroso. You should also try manzanilla, afino made in Sanlucar de Barrameda on the Atlantic coast where the salty sea air gives it a distinctive tang.
Andalusian wines are few and come a poor second to their Sherries. Exceptions are the excellent strong white Montilla Moriles, produced in Cordoba (amontillado means 'like a Montilla'), and the sweet dessert wines made in Malaga from muscatel grapes. Brandies are also produced around Jerez, varying from the cheap, highly addictive Soberano to the luxurious Carlos I. There are also assorted firewater’s variously flavored with almonds, cherries, oranges, apricots and anis. Spanish measures of spirits are liberal, so take care.
More things to do Spain
To the east, the Plaza de Jesus de la Pasion is the city's matrimony corner, with several jewellery shops. Beyond the northern end of Calle Sierpes you come to the Plaza del Duque de la Victoria, with Spain's largest department store, EI Corte Ingles.
Shopping Seville
the corner on Calle Alfonso XII Sevilla Rock sells Spanish pop and guitar music including flamenco and sevillanas. For ceramics, La Alacena (further down Alfonso XII, at No 25) has top of the range china and crockery from La Canuja factory (now on the Carretera de Merida). Puerta Triana (corner of Calle Santas Patronas and Calle Reyes Catolicos) has a less expensive selection of painted plates, bowls and jugs while across the bridge in Triana, Cenmica Santa Ana (Calle San Jorge ) is a rambling show room with enough antique and modern azulejos.
On the east side of the Maestranza bullring, Jamon Reall Esther Fernandez Fdez. (Calle Lopez de Arenas 5) sells Extremaduran wines, meats and cheeses, marmalade and homemade wines and liqueurs (it also has a small bar where you can sample products); there's another branch, Jamon Real II, at Calle Pastor y Landero Being a university town, Seville has many good book shops. One of the best is Venice, across from the Old Tobacco Factory on Calle San Fernando.
Things to buy in Cordoba
The English word 'cordwainer' is derived from Cordoba and testifies to the city's long tradition of high quality leatherwork. In the area bordering La Mezquita you'll find studios and cobblers' workshops, such as the one at Calle Magistral Gonzalez Frances 7 which specialises in riding boots.
Silver filigree (filigrana de plata) is also common. Look out also for two distinctive types of ceramic plate: the green and white Caliphal pottery based on 10th century Arab designs, and the dark green pottery from Lucena. Montilla wines and anis flavored licor from Rute are other specialties’.
In the small shops and stalls on the Plaza de la Corredera you'll find tyresoled sandals, iron rings for hanging up flowerpots, barbecue utensils and wickerwork chairs, baskets, hampers and linen chests. Near the Ayuntamiento the guarnicioneria Rafael Estevez Lopez (Calle San Pablo 6) sells saddles, riding tackle and woolen blankets while the Zoco, the old souk opposite the Synagogue on Calle Judios 5, is the headquarters for Cordoba Association of Craftsmen, many of whom have their shops here. Il is a good place to browse for silver filigree, jewellery, leather work and ceramics.
Granada souvenirs
Granada's souvenirs play heavily on the city's Moorish past embossed leather, marquetry chessboards, inlaid furniture, and a distinctive blue and green pottery known as jajalauza are the most obvious examples. The Albaicfn is the best place to chance upon these but you'll also find them in the Cuesta de Gomerez at the foot of Alhambra hill. Woven products from the Alpujarras mountains are worth looking at the Tejidos Fortuny workshop (Plaza de Fortuny I) has attractive rugs and wall hangings.
Granada's main shopping area lies south and east of the cathedral. Calle Pescaderia has small friendly shops selling meats and cheeses and a stall opposite the Bar Boca has good jajalauza pottery. You may find interesting bargains in the Alcaicerfa (the old silk market). For a spot of self-indulgence, buy a box of mouthwatering cakes from Flor y Nata (Calle Mesones 51) or Lopez Mezquita.
Markets
Markets are the best place to buy fresh food from the countryside: honey, goats' cheese, spiced meats, snails, seafood, olives, nuts, bread and fruit. Produce markets usually start early and pack up around I pm.
In Seville every district hosts its own daily fresh produce market there is one in the Plaza de la Encarnacion and another across the Triana bridge (turn right), on the site of the old Inquisition headquarters. There is a small weekday arts and crafts market outside EI Corte Ingles in the Plaza del Duque de la Victoria. In the north of the city there's a centuries old flea market on Thursday in Calle Feria known as 'EI Jueves'.
Nearby in the Alameda de Hercules a similar bric-a-brac market takes place on Sunday mornings. At the same time there's a bird and pet market (including silkworms) in the Plaza de la Alfalfa, and a stamp and coin collector's market in the Plaza del Cabildo.
In Cordoba the main market venue is the Corredera. In the week a covered mercado sells fresh produce while stalls outside sell fabric, clothes, plants and household items. On weekends this becomes a flea market.
Granada's nicest market is in the Plaza Larga in the Albaicin, but you'll find a belter range in the Mercado de San Agustin on the southwest corner of the cathedral.
Eating and drinking in Seville Cordoba and Granada
In cities like Seville, Cordoba and Granada people never seem to stop eating. Mornings are when work gets done and breakfast is but a meditative moment. Anything goes as long as it's quick: coffee and brandy, chocolate and churros (extrusions of sweet battered dough), bread dunked in olive oil, toast and dripping all taken standing at the bar. By II am the mood shifts cake wards or to an elevenses ice-cream, but by noon the emphasis changes again as the bar staff start putting out their freshly made tapas.
By 7pm it's time for the paseo and an obligatory ice cream, after which the tapas appear again around 5pm. Restaurants are in action by 9pm but rarely full before 10pm at weekends they will still be serving new customers at midnight. After dinner, it is time for an oloroso, a sticky cake. Seville claims to have invented tapas (snacks and appetizers) and can even tell you the bar where this national custom originated:
EI Rinconcillo (near the Santa Catalina church, Calle Gerona 40) where the staff developed the habit of covering a glass of fino with a tapa (lid) of ham. Today tapas are found everywhere and can be anything from a saucer of spiced olives or some slices of jamon serrano (mountain ham) to a gourmet dish of oranges, onions and bacalao (dried cod), or a hot terracotta dish of paella.
A tapa or porcion is simply a taster, while a racion is a small dish, often cooked. Lunch is the best time for raciones the daily menu will be written on a board or the dishes just put out on the counter. Often the bill turns out to be as costly as a meal but the taste of fino and gambas (prawns), or a cerveza (beer) and boquerones (anchovies in garlic and vinegar), is quintessential Spain. If you're a serious tapas addict head straight for Seville to investigate Modesto (Calle Cano y Cucto 5) or the Hosteleria del Laurel (Plaza de los Venerables) in the Barrio Santa Cruz and Casa Manolo (Calle San Jorge) in Triana.
Most bars have an alarming array of mountain hams and spiced sausages suspended from the ceiling, all tagged like prize antiques. You could also try some salchichon (salami), chorizo (red spicy sausage) or morcilla (blood sausage) while habas con jamon (broad beans with ham) is a typical Granada dish. Gazpacho is another famous Andalusia creation, a chilled soup based on bread and olive oil and flavored with vegetables and herbs usually tomatoes, garlic and peppers. The Cordobans make their own, thicker version called salmorejo while ajo blanco is a white soup from Malaga based on garlic, almonds and fruit.
In restaurants look for regional dishes large fish are often served with a saffron, paprika or tomato sauce while zarzuela is a fish stew with a spiced tomato sauce. Fried fish can be bought in takeaway freidurias. Desserts always include a choice of fresh fruit or ice cream but in better quality restaurants you'll be able to dither over tarta de almendras (almond tart), crema de membrillo con queso (quince jelly with cheese), pastel cordobis (puff pastry with candied fruit) or the tocino de cielo (caramel custard) from Cadiz.
Andalusia's most famous drink is sherry, a fortified wine from Jerez de la Frontera. Tthe Spanish will drink it with a meal and indeed whenever they can find an excuse. It is the classic complement to tapas. Fino is the most common drink a light, dry sherry, always served chilled. Amontillado is mellower with a nutty flavor and an amber hue. Oloroso is mature, dark and rich, often drunk as a dessert wine. Palo cortado is richer than amontillado but lighter than oloroso. You should also try manzanilla, afino made in Sanlucar de Barrameda on the Atlantic coast where the salty sea air gives it a distinctive tang.
Andalusian wines are few and come a poor second to their Sherries. Exceptions are the excellent strong white Montilla Moriles, produced in Cordoba (amontillado means 'like a Montilla'), and the sweet dessert wines made in Malaga from muscatel grapes. Brandies are also produced around Jerez, varying from the cheap, highly addictive Soberano to the luxurious Carlos I. There are also assorted firewater’s variously flavored with almonds, cherries, oranges, apricots and anis. Spanish measures of spirits are liberal, so take care.
Labels: Andalusian
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