Madrid information
What was once a highly centralised state, has now devolved powers to the provinces. Madrid is indeed Spain's capital, but it is only one out of 17 autonomous regions (comunidades autonomas), each with its own government and wide-ranging responsibilities, including education, culture and tourism. The Comunidad de Madrid breaks down into 179 municipalities.The municipality of Madrid itself consists of 21 districts.
More things to do Madrid
The Spanish civil war and Madrid
Nowadays this dark chapter in Spanish history is hardly mentioned. It was as though upon the death of General Franco the nation signed a pact of silence to prevent the national trauma from deepening ever further. The battle for the capital began on 18 July 1936 when El Caudillo, as he was called, launched his uprising against the Republican administration. The Popular Front government immediately distributed arms to Madrid workers. On 20 July the barracks in what is now Parque del Oeste were stormed and the hated Nationalists lynched. The short summer of anarchy, however, was not to last long. Franco's troops advanced from the south and carried out massacres that put the 'red terror' in the shade.
By October the Nationalist troops were ready to take Madrid. The government fled to Valencia, while Mussolini and Hitler supplied soldiers and aircraft so that the bombing could begin. When in November the onslaught started, the militias, together with the anarchists under Buenaventura Durruti and the International Brigades, used Soviet arms to repulse the attackers in bloody house to house combat. But the Franquistas dug in at the Casa de Campo park and bombarded the town with heavy artillery. Despite hunger and deprivation, the Madrid Republicans fought on.
Communist leader, Dolores Ibarruri (La Pasionaria) issued the instruction: iNo pasaran! They will not pass! The front, which the soldiers reached by tram, hardly moved for the rest of the war. The battle for Madrid was decided elsewhere. A way out of the impasse was finally achieved when Colonel Casado surrendered unconditionally to General Franco. On 1 April 1939 the Generalisimo marched into the capital, but the killing went on. By 1944 at least 200,000 Republicans had died as part of the political cleansing process and at least 400,000 went into exile.
Madrid life
It is a normal morning on Gran Via. The din from six lanes of traffic resonates between the concrete facades of the multi-storey office blocks. Noisy diesel buses, screeching brakes at red traffic lights, ear-piercing moped exhausts, the cries of the lottery ticket sellers, the penetrating squeal of an ambulance siren, the shrill whistle of a traffic policeman these are the routine sounds of the typical Madrid street. A recent European Union study revealed that no other European city is anywhere near as loud. A level of 70 decibels above which the ear can suffer permanent damage is exceeded in half of all the roads in urban Madrid for more than 10 hours a day.
But the never-ending background noise does not seem to worry the city's hardened residents. They either don't hear it or else they compensate by making even more noise. The TV in the bar is turned up, the hand reaches impatiently for the car horn and everyone shouts. Like all creatures on earth, the madrileños have simply adjusted to their environment.
Bullfighting Madrid
Spain's Fiesta Nacional seems to be flourishing as never before. In one recent year there were 2,500 corridas, a record in the history of bullfighting. It is true that many Spaniards regard this form of popular entertainment as an anachronism and animal rights campaigners in Spain and abroad condemn the sport as butchery. But the reality is that both teenagers and women are flocking to the arenas to cheer on their heroes in the red capas. The greatest idol among the matadores, Jesulin de Ubrique, who retired in 1999, occasionally gave free galas for his female fans, who then showered him with their underwear.
Hardened observers, such as the respected El Pais commentator, Joaquin Vidal, regard the boom in bullfighting with growing scepticism. The jiguras, the great bullfighters, are only after the big money and are going into the ring too often and reducing the ancient drama to an undignified mass spectacle. Some of the private TV channels broadcast the bloody bullfights as pure entertainment, ignoring the high arts of tauromaquia. To create greater excitement, overweight and tame bulls (ratitas or little mice) are thrust into the ring, their horns blunted so that the torero is not put at risk. The highest award the matador can receive, the bull's ear, has been debased. In 1997 star bullfighter, Enrique Ponce, won 159 orejas.
Its narrow alleys and squares, still retaining a quiet, almost rural atmosphere, bear the names of long-gone guilds and markets. The classic beauty of the Plaza Mayor survives intact from a later period in Madrid's history, the Habsburg years, while the bustling Puerta del Sol is not just a focal point for three Metro lines, it is also where all Spanish roads converge. The perfect way to conclude this first tour would be a visit to one of the many Old Castilian restaurants along the cavas, once the moats for the medieval castle.
Puerta del Sol Madrid
The name of the square is derived from a former town gate adorned with a sun symbol that served as the eastern entrance to the historic Old Town. The normally congested semicircle, lined by classical facades from the 19th century, has witnessed many important national dramas among them the bloody rebellion against Napoleon's invading troops of 2 May 1808, the assassination of prime minister Jose Canalejas Mendez in 1912, the declaration of the Second Republic in 1931 and General Franco's assumption of power in 1939.
The building on the south side, Casa de Correos , was built in 1768 as the main post office, but later housed the Ministry of the Interior, and under Franco was used by the state security services and contained a torture chamber. It is now used as the administrative headquarters of the regional government, the Comunidad de Madrid. Its ornate clock tower, dating from 1865, had to be renewed in 1996 because of woodworm. Every year the clock is the focal point for the whole of Spain. On New Year's Eve, to bring good luck during the year ahead, practically every Spaniard follows the clock's 12 strokes live on TV or radio, swallowing one grape (uvas de fa suerte) for each stroke. A plaque cut into a kerbstone in front of the building marks the point from which all distances to Madrid are measured.
Three prominent statues adorn the middle and north side of Puerta del Sol. The figure on a horse is Carlos III, responsible for such important edifices as the Prado and the Puerta de Alcala. La Mariblanca is the name given to the replica of a graceful Venus figure, which once towered above a famous Baroque fountain. The original is now in the Museo Municipal.
It was not until 1967 that the animal that features on the city's coat-of-arms was commemorated by the erection of the monument on Calle del Carmen. The bronze bear can be seen reaching for the fruit of the wild strawberry tree. Another important symbol for Madrid visible from the square is the illuminated advertisement for Tio Pepe sherry, now an established part of the city's cultural heritage. It is the only one of its kind to be allowed in such a prominent position.
The best place to sit and watch goings on in the square is the first floor of the traditional La Mallorquina cafe. Throughout the Spanish-speaking world, from Andalusia to Galicia, from Mexico to Peru, Madrid's Plaza Mayor is the model for public events and gatherings. Once an uneven expanse of land outside the city walls, used mainly as a market, it was laid out in its present form between 1617 and 1620 at the behest of Felipe III, who sits astride his steed at the centre of the square. It was rebuilt by Juan de Villanueva after a serious fire in 1790.
The square may seem peaceful enough these days, but it has not always been so. Until the 19th century, the plaza was the venue for bullfights, riding tournaments and executions. Now concerts and theatre performances are staged here during the Verano de fa Villa. On Sunday the plaza resumes its market character when the shady arcades become a trading post for stamp and coin collectors.
Calle Mayor, lined by many long-established shops, runs westwards. You can quickly get through to Plaza Mayor via Calle Esparteros (Basketweavers' Street) and Calle Postas or one of the passages further on to the left. Architecturally, the overall effect of what is probably the finest square in central Spain perfectly reflects the Spanish Renaissance. With its unified facades and matching heights, the square radiates a sober elegance. The pointed towers on the oldest building, the Casa de la Panaderia (1672), are reminiscent of the monasterial palace of EI Escorial.
On important state occasions the Habsburg dignitaries would have looked down on events from the central balcony of what was once the city's bread and grain reserve. The pseudo Baroque frescoes were the work of the painter Carlos Franco in 1992. Plaza Mayor: facade detail Located in the building opposite, the Casa de Carniceria, formerly the town abattoir, is the municipal tourist office. At the rear of the plaza, the sloping Cava San Miguel follows the course of the moat, which once boosted the town's fortifications. Tourist restaurants occupy the vaults of the 18th century houses.
Markets and shops in Madrid
Stalls in the glass and iron, single-level Mercado de San Miguel, built in the early 20th century, overflow with fresh fare. The market for Moorish Madrid (Arabic: zoco) was situated a little further on by the Plaza de la Villa, the town hall square. Casa de la Villa , a baroque structure with pointed towers (1644), is where today's city council meets. Juan de Villanueva worked on the facade overlooking the Calle Mayor between 177 I and 1787. Contributing to the splendour of the rooms inside are an impressive collection of Gobel in tapestries, crystal chandeliers and paintings. Fine mahogany furniture and a fresco by Vicente Palomino (17th century) are the most striking features in the council chamber.
Places to see Madrid
On the south side of the square, linked to the town hall by an archway, is the Casa de Cisneros, a palace built in 1537 and named after the architect, a nephew of the great Cardinal Francisco Ximenez de Cisneros. Now the residence of the mayor of Madrid, it is the Plateresque facade in Calle del Sacramento which attracts most attention. The tapestries (dating from the 15th/16th centuries) and the town hall are open to the public on Monday between 5 and 6pm.
Opposite the town hall stands Casa y Torre de los Lujanes. Dating from the 15th century, it is Madrid's oldest public building. The horseshoe arches on the tower, typical elements of Mudejar style, are mirrored in the portal of the municipal newspaper archives next door. The statue in the middle of the square honours Admiral Alvaro de Bazan, who died in Lisbon in 1588 shortly before the English sunk his apparently invincible Armada.
To reach the heart of the Morerfa quarter, take Calle Cordon. The busy Calle de Segovia was once a tributary of the Manzanares river, beside which Madrid's first nomadic settlers camped. On the other side rises the medieval brick tower of San Pedro el Viejo (1354), a church thought to have been built on the site of the Arab mosque (mezquita).
Following the rising Costanilla de San Pedro southwards, you will soon find on the right-hand side two squares, Plaza San Andres and Plaza de los Carros. In the inner courtyard of the Museo Casa de San Isidro stands a fountain often associated with a miracle. According to legend, the son of the Madrid's patron saint fell into the water and drowned, but was brought back to life by the power of prayer. San Isidro himself, originally buried in the domed Iglesia de San Andres (17th century) next door, was later moved to Colegiata San Isidro. At the rear in Calle San Andres is the only Gothic Church in Madrid, Capilla del Obispo (1535). It houses an impressive Plateresque high altar by Francisco Giralte (closed for renovation until further notice).
More things to do Madrid
The Spanish civil war and Madrid
Nowadays this dark chapter in Spanish history is hardly mentioned. It was as though upon the death of General Franco the nation signed a pact of silence to prevent the national trauma from deepening ever further. The battle for the capital began on 18 July 1936 when El Caudillo, as he was called, launched his uprising against the Republican administration. The Popular Front government immediately distributed arms to Madrid workers. On 20 July the barracks in what is now Parque del Oeste were stormed and the hated Nationalists lynched. The short summer of anarchy, however, was not to last long. Franco's troops advanced from the south and carried out massacres that put the 'red terror' in the shade.
By October the Nationalist troops were ready to take Madrid. The government fled to Valencia, while Mussolini and Hitler supplied soldiers and aircraft so that the bombing could begin. When in November the onslaught started, the militias, together with the anarchists under Buenaventura Durruti and the International Brigades, used Soviet arms to repulse the attackers in bloody house to house combat. But the Franquistas dug in at the Casa de Campo park and bombarded the town with heavy artillery. Despite hunger and deprivation, the Madrid Republicans fought on.
Communist leader, Dolores Ibarruri (La Pasionaria) issued the instruction: iNo pasaran! They will not pass! The front, which the soldiers reached by tram, hardly moved for the rest of the war. The battle for Madrid was decided elsewhere. A way out of the impasse was finally achieved when Colonel Casado surrendered unconditionally to General Franco. On 1 April 1939 the Generalisimo marched into the capital, but the killing went on. By 1944 at least 200,000 Republicans had died as part of the political cleansing process and at least 400,000 went into exile.
Madrid life
It is a normal morning on Gran Via. The din from six lanes of traffic resonates between the concrete facades of the multi-storey office blocks. Noisy diesel buses, screeching brakes at red traffic lights, ear-piercing moped exhausts, the cries of the lottery ticket sellers, the penetrating squeal of an ambulance siren, the shrill whistle of a traffic policeman these are the routine sounds of the typical Madrid street. A recent European Union study revealed that no other European city is anywhere near as loud. A level of 70 decibels above which the ear can suffer permanent damage is exceeded in half of all the roads in urban Madrid for more than 10 hours a day.
But the never-ending background noise does not seem to worry the city's hardened residents. They either don't hear it or else they compensate by making even more noise. The TV in the bar is turned up, the hand reaches impatiently for the car horn and everyone shouts. Like all creatures on earth, the madrileños have simply adjusted to their environment.
Bullfighting Madrid
Spain's Fiesta Nacional seems to be flourishing as never before. In one recent year there were 2,500 corridas, a record in the history of bullfighting. It is true that many Spaniards regard this form of popular entertainment as an anachronism and animal rights campaigners in Spain and abroad condemn the sport as butchery. But the reality is that both teenagers and women are flocking to the arenas to cheer on their heroes in the red capas. The greatest idol among the matadores, Jesulin de Ubrique, who retired in 1999, occasionally gave free galas for his female fans, who then showered him with their underwear.
Hardened observers, such as the respected El Pais commentator, Joaquin Vidal, regard the boom in bullfighting with growing scepticism. The jiguras, the great bullfighters, are only after the big money and are going into the ring too often and reducing the ancient drama to an undignified mass spectacle. Some of the private TV channels broadcast the bloody bullfights as pure entertainment, ignoring the high arts of tauromaquia. To create greater excitement, overweight and tame bulls (ratitas or little mice) are thrust into the ring, their horns blunted so that the torero is not put at risk. The highest award the matador can receive, the bull's ear, has been debased. In 1997 star bullfighter, Enrique Ponce, won 159 orejas.
Its narrow alleys and squares, still retaining a quiet, almost rural atmosphere, bear the names of long-gone guilds and markets. The classic beauty of the Plaza Mayor survives intact from a later period in Madrid's history, the Habsburg years, while the bustling Puerta del Sol is not just a focal point for three Metro lines, it is also where all Spanish roads converge. The perfect way to conclude this first tour would be a visit to one of the many Old Castilian restaurants along the cavas, once the moats for the medieval castle.
Puerta del Sol Madrid
The name of the square is derived from a former town gate adorned with a sun symbol that served as the eastern entrance to the historic Old Town. The normally congested semicircle, lined by classical facades from the 19th century, has witnessed many important national dramas among them the bloody rebellion against Napoleon's invading troops of 2 May 1808, the assassination of prime minister Jose Canalejas Mendez in 1912, the declaration of the Second Republic in 1931 and General Franco's assumption of power in 1939.
The building on the south side, Casa de Correos , was built in 1768 as the main post office, but later housed the Ministry of the Interior, and under Franco was used by the state security services and contained a torture chamber. It is now used as the administrative headquarters of the regional government, the Comunidad de Madrid. Its ornate clock tower, dating from 1865, had to be renewed in 1996 because of woodworm. Every year the clock is the focal point for the whole of Spain. On New Year's Eve, to bring good luck during the year ahead, practically every Spaniard follows the clock's 12 strokes live on TV or radio, swallowing one grape (uvas de fa suerte) for each stroke. A plaque cut into a kerbstone in front of the building marks the point from which all distances to Madrid are measured.
Three prominent statues adorn the middle and north side of Puerta del Sol. The figure on a horse is Carlos III, responsible for such important edifices as the Prado and the Puerta de Alcala. La Mariblanca is the name given to the replica of a graceful Venus figure, which once towered above a famous Baroque fountain. The original is now in the Museo Municipal.
It was not until 1967 that the animal that features on the city's coat-of-arms was commemorated by the erection of the monument on Calle del Carmen. The bronze bear can be seen reaching for the fruit of the wild strawberry tree. Another important symbol for Madrid visible from the square is the illuminated advertisement for Tio Pepe sherry, now an established part of the city's cultural heritage. It is the only one of its kind to be allowed in such a prominent position.
The best place to sit and watch goings on in the square is the first floor of the traditional La Mallorquina cafe. Throughout the Spanish-speaking world, from Andalusia to Galicia, from Mexico to Peru, Madrid's Plaza Mayor is the model for public events and gatherings. Once an uneven expanse of land outside the city walls, used mainly as a market, it was laid out in its present form between 1617 and 1620 at the behest of Felipe III, who sits astride his steed at the centre of the square. It was rebuilt by Juan de Villanueva after a serious fire in 1790.
The square may seem peaceful enough these days, but it has not always been so. Until the 19th century, the plaza was the venue for bullfights, riding tournaments and executions. Now concerts and theatre performances are staged here during the Verano de fa Villa. On Sunday the plaza resumes its market character when the shady arcades become a trading post for stamp and coin collectors.
Calle Mayor, lined by many long-established shops, runs westwards. You can quickly get through to Plaza Mayor via Calle Esparteros (Basketweavers' Street) and Calle Postas or one of the passages further on to the left. Architecturally, the overall effect of what is probably the finest square in central Spain perfectly reflects the Spanish Renaissance. With its unified facades and matching heights, the square radiates a sober elegance. The pointed towers on the oldest building, the Casa de la Panaderia (1672), are reminiscent of the monasterial palace of EI Escorial.
On important state occasions the Habsburg dignitaries would have looked down on events from the central balcony of what was once the city's bread and grain reserve. The pseudo Baroque frescoes were the work of the painter Carlos Franco in 1992. Plaza Mayor: facade detail Located in the building opposite, the Casa de Carniceria, formerly the town abattoir, is the municipal tourist office. At the rear of the plaza, the sloping Cava San Miguel follows the course of the moat, which once boosted the town's fortifications. Tourist restaurants occupy the vaults of the 18th century houses.
Markets and shops in Madrid
Stalls in the glass and iron, single-level Mercado de San Miguel, built in the early 20th century, overflow with fresh fare. The market for Moorish Madrid (Arabic: zoco) was situated a little further on by the Plaza de la Villa, the town hall square. Casa de la Villa , a baroque structure with pointed towers (1644), is where today's city council meets. Juan de Villanueva worked on the facade overlooking the Calle Mayor between 177 I and 1787. Contributing to the splendour of the rooms inside are an impressive collection of Gobel in tapestries, crystal chandeliers and paintings. Fine mahogany furniture and a fresco by Vicente Palomino (17th century) are the most striking features in the council chamber.
Places to see Madrid
On the south side of the square, linked to the town hall by an archway, is the Casa de Cisneros, a palace built in 1537 and named after the architect, a nephew of the great Cardinal Francisco Ximenez de Cisneros. Now the residence of the mayor of Madrid, it is the Plateresque facade in Calle del Sacramento which attracts most attention. The tapestries (dating from the 15th/16th centuries) and the town hall are open to the public on Monday between 5 and 6pm.
Opposite the town hall stands Casa y Torre de los Lujanes. Dating from the 15th century, it is Madrid's oldest public building. The horseshoe arches on the tower, typical elements of Mudejar style, are mirrored in the portal of the municipal newspaper archives next door. The statue in the middle of the square honours Admiral Alvaro de Bazan, who died in Lisbon in 1588 shortly before the English sunk his apparently invincible Armada.
To reach the heart of the Morerfa quarter, take Calle Cordon. The busy Calle de Segovia was once a tributary of the Manzanares river, beside which Madrid's first nomadic settlers camped. On the other side rises the medieval brick tower of San Pedro el Viejo (1354), a church thought to have been built on the site of the Arab mosque (mezquita).
Following the rising Costanilla de San Pedro southwards, you will soon find on the right-hand side two squares, Plaza San Andres and Plaza de los Carros. In the inner courtyard of the Museo Casa de San Isidro stands a fountain often associated with a miracle. According to legend, the son of the Madrid's patron saint fell into the water and drowned, but was brought back to life by the power of prayer. San Isidro himself, originally buried in the domed Iglesia de San Andres (17th century) next door, was later moved to Colegiata San Isidro. At the rear in Calle San Andres is the only Gothic Church in Madrid, Capilla del Obispo (1535). It houses an impressive Plateresque high altar by Francisco Giralte (closed for renovation until further notice).
Labels: Bullfighting Madrid, Madrid life
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