About Madrid
The map of Spain is often compared with a bull's hide laid out in the sun to dry. On this basis Madrid would be the heart of the bull, not only because all the roads in Spain meet up outside the town hall on the Puerta del Sol, but also because all the country's political, social and cultural impulses start from here. It has not always been like that.
More things to do Madrid
Up until the 1970s, the city that is now noisy, vibrant and throbbing with life, was as peaceful as a graveyard. Hordes of night revellers now gather where once the night watchman kept a lonely vigil. Until relatively recently the people were cowed by the authoritarian control of the Franco regime. Today the whole gamut of opinions and lifestyles co-exist. To most Spaniards, having a good time is not something for fiestas and weekends, it is a right. Madrid is a place where, so long as decorum is observed, people tend to do as they please. Ride your noisy motorbike on the pavement? Leave the dog out all night? Drive around in the early hours with the car stereo at full volume? No-one will complain. Madrileños are tolerant people; in fact a touch of anarchy often prevails. Life here is lived to the hilt. Nightlife in Paris or Rome would be dull by comparison.
Spanish culture
Behind those sometimes daunting stares lie generous hearts and a civilised approach to life. After all, madrileños have always welcomed outsiders. Without immigrants from all parts of Spain and beyond, nothing would have emerged that in any way resembles the legendary castizo traditions. Meaning pure-blooded and authentic, the word encapsulates the madrileño character. There is no question about it, modern Madrid is proud of its great diversity. It is precisely for that reason that the bull's heart is beating stronger than ever.
Madrid landscape
The historic core of the Iberian peninsula extends over the autonomous regions of Castilla Leon (Old Castile), Castilla La Mancha (New Castile) and Extremadura. Covering an area of over 200,000 sq km (75,000 sq miles), this region occupies about 40 percent of Spanish territory. The Castilian mountain range divides the meseta into a northern and southern half. Rising from the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range about 90km (56 miles) north of the city are peaks which reach a height of 2,400m (7,500ft). During the summer day trippers often head for the cooler air on these slopes, while in the winter it is even possible to ski here. The relief of the meseta also has an effect on the city's outward face. Situated at an average height of 650m (2,130ft), Madrid is the highest European capital. The gentle ups and downs of many streets in the Old Town reflect the contours of the high plateau, but there are no natural commanding spots within the city's boundaries.
Although the steep slopes above the Manzanares river form a sort of terrace, madrileños love to poke fun at its meagre flow. They say it suffers from mal de piedra or 'stone disease'. The people of Madrid are proud of the city's many open spaces, which occupy almost half of the total surface area of 600 sq km/1230 sq miles (Madrid autonomous region 8,000 sq km/3, I 00 sq miles). The many tree-lined boulevards and roads, especially in the newer quarters, help to create a sense of space, but the large parks such as the Retiro, the Parque del Oeste and the huge Casa de Campo in the Manzanares valley cannot prevent the pollution from the huge volumes of traffic from rising to alarming levels.
Madrid weather
While it is true that Madrid lies on the same line of latitude as Naples or Istanbul, the meseta can offer nothing resembling the mild Mediterranean-style climate. Del invierno al inferno or 'from winter straight into hell' is how the locals often describe the continental inland climate of extremes typical of central Castile.
If you have endured a numbing rainy and windy winter's day, then you will, almost certainly, be wanting a hotel with a fully functioning heating system. Frost and snow are rare. The icy wind from the Sierra may occasionally blow in a few white flakes, but they never stay around for long. In the nearby Avila province, on the other hand, whole villages can sometimes be cut off from the outside world for days by blizzards. Spring and autumn bring pleasant, moderately warm sunny days, but provide only a short interlude. During the summer, temperatures regularly rise to over 40°C (104°F). The heat can sometimes be unbearable, particularly in late afternoon when the asphalt and concrete have heated up. If you do not have to work, then you leave Madrid for this part of the year. Madrileños prefer to spend their summer holidays (veranear in Spanish) on the Costa Blanca or on the cooler north coast. Many restaurants shops and smaller museums close.
As a consolation for the heat-resistant tourists and those residents who have no choice but to stay put the summer promises a rich and varied cultural programme, including the music, theatre, ballet, film and various openair events of the Verano de la Villa (summer arts festival). With so many local people fleeing the capital in the summer, there is noticeably less traffic congestion, the cafes along Paseo de la Castellana are livelier at night and the numbers visiting the Prado Museum and the Thyssen Bornemisza collection lower than usual. The cool museums make perfect refuges from the intense daytime heat.
Madrid history
Madrid underwent massive growth when Franco's indutrialisation plans led to serious unemployment in the provinces. Between 1950 and 1970 the population in the Comunidad increased from 1.9 to 4.8 million. A reversal of this trend was first noted in the 1990s. By 1998 about 130,000 young madrileños had turned their backs on the traffic congestion and high rents and settled in the housing estates (urbaniziciones) on the northern outskirts.
Many immigrants from Latin America, the Caribbean and Africa have also made their homes in Madrid. At least 130,000 foreigners live in the city, about 30,000 of them Illegally. Like the Spanish migrants, the new arrivals have brought their own gastronomy, festivals and customs, thereby enriching even further the city's cultural diversity. Anyone who listens in on the contemporary music scene is sure to hear the Latin influence. Cuban salsa, Colombian cumbia, merengue from the Dominican Republic and tango from Argentina have been the repertoire in the city's clubs for a long time. Gypsies (gitanos) form a significant minority but most are now permanently settled.
Like everywhere else in Spain, Madrid society has changed dramatically since the transition to democracy. The birth rate is similar to that in most northern European countries and the influence of the once all-powerful church is waning. While it is true that 96 percent of the population regard themselves as Catholics, only a third of them are regular churchgoers.
The traditional role of women has undergone a remarkable change since 1975. During the Franco period, married women were not even allowed to open a bank account without their husband's permission, let alone earn money. Now women make up one third of the workforce. The true nature of the madrileño soul is the source of much speculation, not least by the madrileños themselves. Ramon Gomez de la Serna, a dedicated observer of his fellow madrileños, wrote that they are a collection of imaginative people who know how to live the miracle of life and know that laughter is something very serious.
One thing is certain: the concept of el madrileño castizo, the true madrileño, does exist. But the faces are too varied. Is it the civil servant with the brightly-polished black shoes? The elegant young manager with his mobile phone? The blind lottery ticket seller on the Puerta del Sol? The extravagantly dressed society queen in designer wear? Or perhaps it is the scruffy student from Lavapies or the cleaner from the Caribbean? What unites them all is a kind of love-hate relationship with the chaos which envelops their daily life. Clearly this informs the vitality, the flexibility and the ready wit of the madrileños. But at the same time they are proud of the everyday madness that drives the city on. They grin and then declare: aqui vivimos de pelicula en vivo - live our life as if it's a film.'
Madrid fashion
During the 18th century, the manner and dress of these smart underdogs, now referred to as majo and maja (meaning attractive, pretty), became the fashion model on the smarter side of town. Aristocratic duquesas and condes suddenly developed a taste for the styles adopted by the market girls and coachmen. Goya even went as far as to portray the woman who many believe was his mistress, the Duchess of Alba, as maja, once fully clothed, once naked. The second led to his appearance before the Inquisition.
During the 19th century, the image of the majos changed. They were now known as chulos or chulapos, shady characters often modelled on the bandit Luis Candelas, Madrid's answer to Robin Hood. The archetypal chulo now wears a check waistcoat, neckerchief has a malicious tongue, speaks in a strong Madrid dialct and is quick to reach for the stiletto.
Madrid tourism
Despite all the success stories emanating from official sources, life in Madrid has not improved for everybody. The Spanish economy is still weighed down by high levels of unemployment. Keeping inflation low and reducing the national debt continue to be key economic targets. The wages of ordinary working people have not kept pace with price increases. The future is especially bleak for young people without skills or qualifications. Prostitution, drug addiction and crime have afflicted many of those with poor job prospects.
A clear north-south divide characterises the social makeup of the city. Anyone who has made it chooses to live in the fashionable Salamanca quarter. The middle-class families now prefer the northern outskirts, where it is possible to buy a terraced house (chalet). The lower-middle classes gravitate towards the cheaper, and in places rather rundown apartments in Malasaña or Lavapies. Students and new arrivals from Morocco or Latin America also find reasonably-priced accommodation there.
In a belt around the south of the city lie many characterless dormitory towns such as Carabanchel, Vallecas and Villaverde, which were built during the 1950s for newcomers from the rural regions. These are now where the majority of the low-paid workers live. Not unlike the favelas of Rio de Janeiro are the shanty towns and permanent campsites beside the main arterial roads and under motorway bridges in the southern and eastern suburbs. The chabolas (tin huts) are home to thousands of illegal immigrants, gypsies and drug addicts.
He could have chosen from such magnificent towns as Toledo, Salamanca, Segovia and Valladolid, so why on earth did Felipe II pick such an insignificant spot in the heart of the meseta as the seat for his court? What was it that was so attractive to a man who at that time was one of the most powerful rulers in the world? Why go for a small town named Majrit with a population of about 3,000? Perhaps he was looking for political neutrality, perhaps he wanted to turn over a new leaf in the history books or maybe he was rather taken by its position as the geographical centre of the country. But since 1561 Madrid has wanted to be known officially as Villa y Corte or 'market town and court'. The madrileños continue to use this expression which describes their town with a hint of gentle Irony. It has grown up quickly, it has improvised, but somehow it has remained a town.
The head of state, now King Juan Carlos I, has traditionally ruled from the Palacio de la Zarzuela (Bosques del Pardo). Of course, the two parliaments (cortes generales), the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies, meet in the capital too. The prime minister runs the country from his office in the Moncloa quarter, where all the other ministries and high court buildings are based.
More things to do Madrid
Up until the 1970s, the city that is now noisy, vibrant and throbbing with life, was as peaceful as a graveyard. Hordes of night revellers now gather where once the night watchman kept a lonely vigil. Until relatively recently the people were cowed by the authoritarian control of the Franco regime. Today the whole gamut of opinions and lifestyles co-exist. To most Spaniards, having a good time is not something for fiestas and weekends, it is a right. Madrid is a place where, so long as decorum is observed, people tend to do as they please. Ride your noisy motorbike on the pavement? Leave the dog out all night? Drive around in the early hours with the car stereo at full volume? No-one will complain. Madrileños are tolerant people; in fact a touch of anarchy often prevails. Life here is lived to the hilt. Nightlife in Paris or Rome would be dull by comparison.
Spanish culture
Behind those sometimes daunting stares lie generous hearts and a civilised approach to life. After all, madrileños have always welcomed outsiders. Without immigrants from all parts of Spain and beyond, nothing would have emerged that in any way resembles the legendary castizo traditions. Meaning pure-blooded and authentic, the word encapsulates the madrileño character. There is no question about it, modern Madrid is proud of its great diversity. It is precisely for that reason that the bull's heart is beating stronger than ever.
Madrid landscape
The historic core of the Iberian peninsula extends over the autonomous regions of Castilla Leon (Old Castile), Castilla La Mancha (New Castile) and Extremadura. Covering an area of over 200,000 sq km (75,000 sq miles), this region occupies about 40 percent of Spanish territory. The Castilian mountain range divides the meseta into a northern and southern half. Rising from the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range about 90km (56 miles) north of the city are peaks which reach a height of 2,400m (7,500ft). During the summer day trippers often head for the cooler air on these slopes, while in the winter it is even possible to ski here. The relief of the meseta also has an effect on the city's outward face. Situated at an average height of 650m (2,130ft), Madrid is the highest European capital. The gentle ups and downs of many streets in the Old Town reflect the contours of the high plateau, but there are no natural commanding spots within the city's boundaries.
Although the steep slopes above the Manzanares river form a sort of terrace, madrileños love to poke fun at its meagre flow. They say it suffers from mal de piedra or 'stone disease'. The people of Madrid are proud of the city's many open spaces, which occupy almost half of the total surface area of 600 sq km/1230 sq miles (Madrid autonomous region 8,000 sq km/3, I 00 sq miles). The many tree-lined boulevards and roads, especially in the newer quarters, help to create a sense of space, but the large parks such as the Retiro, the Parque del Oeste and the huge Casa de Campo in the Manzanares valley cannot prevent the pollution from the huge volumes of traffic from rising to alarming levels.
Madrid weather
While it is true that Madrid lies on the same line of latitude as Naples or Istanbul, the meseta can offer nothing resembling the mild Mediterranean-style climate. Del invierno al inferno or 'from winter straight into hell' is how the locals often describe the continental inland climate of extremes typical of central Castile.
If you have endured a numbing rainy and windy winter's day, then you will, almost certainly, be wanting a hotel with a fully functioning heating system. Frost and snow are rare. The icy wind from the Sierra may occasionally blow in a few white flakes, but they never stay around for long. In the nearby Avila province, on the other hand, whole villages can sometimes be cut off from the outside world for days by blizzards. Spring and autumn bring pleasant, moderately warm sunny days, but provide only a short interlude. During the summer, temperatures regularly rise to over 40°C (104°F). The heat can sometimes be unbearable, particularly in late afternoon when the asphalt and concrete have heated up. If you do not have to work, then you leave Madrid for this part of the year. Madrileños prefer to spend their summer holidays (veranear in Spanish) on the Costa Blanca or on the cooler north coast. Many restaurants shops and smaller museums close.
As a consolation for the heat-resistant tourists and those residents who have no choice but to stay put the summer promises a rich and varied cultural programme, including the music, theatre, ballet, film and various openair events of the Verano de la Villa (summer arts festival). With so many local people fleeing the capital in the summer, there is noticeably less traffic congestion, the cafes along Paseo de la Castellana are livelier at night and the numbers visiting the Prado Museum and the Thyssen Bornemisza collection lower than usual. The cool museums make perfect refuges from the intense daytime heat.
Madrid history
Madrid underwent massive growth when Franco's indutrialisation plans led to serious unemployment in the provinces. Between 1950 and 1970 the population in the Comunidad increased from 1.9 to 4.8 million. A reversal of this trend was first noted in the 1990s. By 1998 about 130,000 young madrileños had turned their backs on the traffic congestion and high rents and settled in the housing estates (urbaniziciones) on the northern outskirts.
Many immigrants from Latin America, the Caribbean and Africa have also made their homes in Madrid. At least 130,000 foreigners live in the city, about 30,000 of them Illegally. Like the Spanish migrants, the new arrivals have brought their own gastronomy, festivals and customs, thereby enriching even further the city's cultural diversity. Anyone who listens in on the contemporary music scene is sure to hear the Latin influence. Cuban salsa, Colombian cumbia, merengue from the Dominican Republic and tango from Argentina have been the repertoire in the city's clubs for a long time. Gypsies (gitanos) form a significant minority but most are now permanently settled.
Like everywhere else in Spain, Madrid society has changed dramatically since the transition to democracy. The birth rate is similar to that in most northern European countries and the influence of the once all-powerful church is waning. While it is true that 96 percent of the population regard themselves as Catholics, only a third of them are regular churchgoers.
The traditional role of women has undergone a remarkable change since 1975. During the Franco period, married women were not even allowed to open a bank account without their husband's permission, let alone earn money. Now women make up one third of the workforce. The true nature of the madrileño soul is the source of much speculation, not least by the madrileños themselves. Ramon Gomez de la Serna, a dedicated observer of his fellow madrileños, wrote that they are a collection of imaginative people who know how to live the miracle of life and know that laughter is something very serious.
One thing is certain: the concept of el madrileño castizo, the true madrileño, does exist. But the faces are too varied. Is it the civil servant with the brightly-polished black shoes? The elegant young manager with his mobile phone? The blind lottery ticket seller on the Puerta del Sol? The extravagantly dressed society queen in designer wear? Or perhaps it is the scruffy student from Lavapies or the cleaner from the Caribbean? What unites them all is a kind of love-hate relationship with the chaos which envelops their daily life. Clearly this informs the vitality, the flexibility and the ready wit of the madrileños. But at the same time they are proud of the everyday madness that drives the city on. They grin and then declare: aqui vivimos de pelicula en vivo - live our life as if it's a film.'
Madrid fashion
During the 18th century, the manner and dress of these smart underdogs, now referred to as majo and maja (meaning attractive, pretty), became the fashion model on the smarter side of town. Aristocratic duquesas and condes suddenly developed a taste for the styles adopted by the market girls and coachmen. Goya even went as far as to portray the woman who many believe was his mistress, the Duchess of Alba, as maja, once fully clothed, once naked. The second led to his appearance before the Inquisition.
During the 19th century, the image of the majos changed. They were now known as chulos or chulapos, shady characters often modelled on the bandit Luis Candelas, Madrid's answer to Robin Hood. The archetypal chulo now wears a check waistcoat, neckerchief has a malicious tongue, speaks in a strong Madrid dialct and is quick to reach for the stiletto.
Madrid tourism
Despite all the success stories emanating from official sources, life in Madrid has not improved for everybody. The Spanish economy is still weighed down by high levels of unemployment. Keeping inflation low and reducing the national debt continue to be key economic targets. The wages of ordinary working people have not kept pace with price increases. The future is especially bleak for young people without skills or qualifications. Prostitution, drug addiction and crime have afflicted many of those with poor job prospects.
A clear north-south divide characterises the social makeup of the city. Anyone who has made it chooses to live in the fashionable Salamanca quarter. The middle-class families now prefer the northern outskirts, where it is possible to buy a terraced house (chalet). The lower-middle classes gravitate towards the cheaper, and in places rather rundown apartments in Malasaña or Lavapies. Students and new arrivals from Morocco or Latin America also find reasonably-priced accommodation there.
In a belt around the south of the city lie many characterless dormitory towns such as Carabanchel, Vallecas and Villaverde, which were built during the 1950s for newcomers from the rural regions. These are now where the majority of the low-paid workers live. Not unlike the favelas of Rio de Janeiro are the shanty towns and permanent campsites beside the main arterial roads and under motorway bridges in the southern and eastern suburbs. The chabolas (tin huts) are home to thousands of illegal immigrants, gypsies and drug addicts.
He could have chosen from such magnificent towns as Toledo, Salamanca, Segovia and Valladolid, so why on earth did Felipe II pick such an insignificant spot in the heart of the meseta as the seat for his court? What was it that was so attractive to a man who at that time was one of the most powerful rulers in the world? Why go for a small town named Majrit with a population of about 3,000? Perhaps he was looking for political neutrality, perhaps he wanted to turn over a new leaf in the history books or maybe he was rather taken by its position as the geographical centre of the country. But since 1561 Madrid has wanted to be known officially as Villa y Corte or 'market town and court'. The madrileños continue to use this expression which describes their town with a hint of gentle Irony. It has grown up quickly, it has improvised, but somehow it has remained a town.
The head of state, now King Juan Carlos I, has traditionally ruled from the Palacio de la Zarzuela (Bosques del Pardo). Of course, the two parliaments (cortes generales), the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies, meet in the capital too. The prime minister runs the country from his office in the Moncloa quarter, where all the other ministries and high court buildings are based.
Labels: Madrid landscape
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