Things to do in Cadiz
Cadiz For the travel weary coming from the sun baked interior, the salty breeze of Cadiz (pronounced Cahdeeth) is a soothing tonic. It's said to be impossible to get lost here, because every street leads to water: Old Cadiz occupies a club-shaped peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic like the prow of an ocean liner, with the city's bay, the Bahia de Cadiz, to its back. A narrow isthmus connects it to the mainland. The setting is dramatic, but Cadiz is a bit rough around the edges, with the kind of seedy charm found in such places as Marseilles and Naples.
A deep, sheltered harbor inspired the Phoenicians to found the city around 1100 Be, and every subsequent Mediterranean power made it an important port. The role of Cadiz in the exploration and colonization of the Americas and above all as a conduit for trade with the new Spanish possessions made it wealthy, and it became a favorite of raiding Barbary pirates and English sea dogs such as Sir Francis Drake. When the Rio (River) Guadalquivir silted up, effectively removing Seville as a competitor, Cadiz became the headquarters of Spain's Americas fleet, only to slide into obscurity when the country lost its overseas colonies.
Today, the port is booming once again
The best way to get an overview of the town is to drive the loop road that circles the perimeter, skirting a lovely seaside promenade. In fact, travelers will probably want to limit driving to this route alone, because while Cadiz is only a bit smaller than Jerez in terms of population, it has none of that city's sprawl, and negotiating the cramped and confusing streets is extremely difficult.
Directly in front of the port on the peninsula's east side is the bustling Plaza San Juan de Dios, site of the imposing Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and a dozen or so seafood restaurants with outdoor tables for people watching. (Caditanos - the locals - appear to live on fish, shellfish, and wine, and the number of stand-up eateries in town, especially in the dank streets around this plaza, is astounding.) Not far away, but on the west side of town, sits the ultra-ornate, golden-domed Catedral Nueva. Outstanding features inside include the choir stalls and, in the museum, the Custodia del Millon a 17th-century silver monstrance studded with thousands of jewels; in th crypt is the tomb of the Spanish composer Manuel de Falla (who was born in Cadiz in 1876).
The old cathedral, the Iglesia de Santa Cruz (Calle Fray Felix), a 17th-century reconstruction of a church with 13thcentury origins, is near the new one. The Museo de Cadiz, also known as the Museo de Bellas Artes y Arqueologico (Museum of Fine Arts and Archaeology), on the same square, has respectable collections of art, including paintings by Zurbaran and Murillo, and archaeology, especially Phoenician and Carthaginian artifacts.
Another suggested stop is the 17th-century Oratorio de San Felipe Neri (Prayer Chapel of St. Philip Neri), several blocks away on Calle Santa Ines. The small church is famous as the place where Spain's first liberal constitution was hammered out in 1812; a painting by Murillo hangs above the altar. Next door is the Museo Historico Municipal, which has a fascinating ivory and mahogany scale model of Cadiz as it looked in the 18th century, It's closed Monday and weekend afternoons; no admission charge. The Oratorio de Santa Cueva on Calle Rosario contains religious frescoes by Goya.
Strolling through Cadiz is a delight, especially along the seaside promenade with its enormous banyan trees and verdant oases such as the Parque de Genoves, which offers summer concerts and a palm garden. Within the loop of the promenade, the streets and alleys of the Casco Antiguo twist and turn like tunnels in a rabbit warren. Just when they become too claustrophobic, however, or a bit too grimy, a sunny, palm-lined square appears.
The same streets witness the town's uproarious Carnavales, well known throughout Spain. The week before Cuaresma (Lent), residents go for days without sleep - singing, dancing in the streets, playing odd musical instruments, and rattling nerveracking noisemakers. A fireworks display signals the end of the carnival celebrations, and the next morning all that remains are several tons of confetti and empty wine bottles.
Vejer de la Frontera Andalusia
This picturesque village is another of Andalusia's white villages. It lords over the landscape 3.5 miles (52 km) from Cadiz, just a mile (1.6 km) off the main road. The site is another exceptional one, used as a defensive bastion ever since the days when Romans were fighting Iberians. The Moors couldn't pass up a chance to plunk down a hilltop castle, and some of its old walls have been restored. Nearby, the Iglesia de San Salvador (Church of the Holy Savior; Calle Rosario) is a blending of Gothic and Mudejar styles, built on the foundations of a mosque. The tiny streets here are no place to drive; if you'd like to explore, park in the lot at the entrance to the village.
Things to do in Tarifa
The town sits at Spain's southernmost point, looking out on the Strait of Gibraltar and, on a clear day, as far as Morocco. Head for the Casco Antiguo (Old Town) through an ancient portal. Within are the 16th-century Gothic Iglesia de San Mateo (Church of St. Matthew) and the 13th century (reconstructed) Castillo de Guzman el Bueno (Castle of Guzman the Good), still used as an army barracks.
The castle is usually open daily during the summer months, on weekends only the rest of the year; admission charge. However, ongoing renovations have closed the castle periodically, so it's best to check with the Oficina de Turismo before visiting. Most people who come to Tarifa don't come for the sightseeing, but to take the hydrofoil that makes a daily run across the water to Tangier in Morocco. Windsurfing is another big draw.En Route from Tarifa Return to N340 and head east toward Algeciras.
This part of Andalusia, known as the Campo de Gibraltar, is mainly an industrial and shipping center, of little interest to tourists. Several miles east of Tarifa, however, the famous Rock of Gibraltara little piece of the British Empire isolated in the Mediterranean comes into view, thrusting up from across the Bahia de Algeciras.
ALGECIRAS This growing port city has little to offer visitors except wonderful views of the Rock. More than three million passengers a year use the ferries and hydrofoils that ply the Strait of Gibraltar between Algeciras and both Tangier land the Spanish enclave of Ceuta in North Africa. The city also has a grand Void landmark hotel, the Reina Cristina (see Best en Route), the brainchild of a turn ofthecentury English lord who constructed a railroad across Andalusia. During World War II, the harbor side hotel's guests were joined by a number of German spies, who watched ship traffic through the strait from their second story rooms.
A deep, sheltered harbor inspired the Phoenicians to found the city around 1100 Be, and every subsequent Mediterranean power made it an important port. The role of Cadiz in the exploration and colonization of the Americas and above all as a conduit for trade with the new Spanish possessions made it wealthy, and it became a favorite of raiding Barbary pirates and English sea dogs such as Sir Francis Drake. When the Rio (River) Guadalquivir silted up, effectively removing Seville as a competitor, Cadiz became the headquarters of Spain's Americas fleet, only to slide into obscurity when the country lost its overseas colonies.
Today, the port is booming once again
The best way to get an overview of the town is to drive the loop road that circles the perimeter, skirting a lovely seaside promenade. In fact, travelers will probably want to limit driving to this route alone, because while Cadiz is only a bit smaller than Jerez in terms of population, it has none of that city's sprawl, and negotiating the cramped and confusing streets is extremely difficult.
Directly in front of the port on the peninsula's east side is the bustling Plaza San Juan de Dios, site of the imposing Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and a dozen or so seafood restaurants with outdoor tables for people watching. (Caditanos - the locals - appear to live on fish, shellfish, and wine, and the number of stand-up eateries in town, especially in the dank streets around this plaza, is astounding.) Not far away, but on the west side of town, sits the ultra-ornate, golden-domed Catedral Nueva. Outstanding features inside include the choir stalls and, in the museum, the Custodia del Millon a 17th-century silver monstrance studded with thousands of jewels; in th crypt is the tomb of the Spanish composer Manuel de Falla (who was born in Cadiz in 1876).
The old cathedral, the Iglesia de Santa Cruz (Calle Fray Felix), a 17th-century reconstruction of a church with 13thcentury origins, is near the new one. The Museo de Cadiz, also known as the Museo de Bellas Artes y Arqueologico (Museum of Fine Arts and Archaeology), on the same square, has respectable collections of art, including paintings by Zurbaran and Murillo, and archaeology, especially Phoenician and Carthaginian artifacts.
Another suggested stop is the 17th-century Oratorio de San Felipe Neri (Prayer Chapel of St. Philip Neri), several blocks away on Calle Santa Ines. The small church is famous as the place where Spain's first liberal constitution was hammered out in 1812; a painting by Murillo hangs above the altar. Next door is the Museo Historico Municipal, which has a fascinating ivory and mahogany scale model of Cadiz as it looked in the 18th century, It's closed Monday and weekend afternoons; no admission charge. The Oratorio de Santa Cueva on Calle Rosario contains religious frescoes by Goya.
Strolling through Cadiz is a delight, especially along the seaside promenade with its enormous banyan trees and verdant oases such as the Parque de Genoves, which offers summer concerts and a palm garden. Within the loop of the promenade, the streets and alleys of the Casco Antiguo twist and turn like tunnels in a rabbit warren. Just when they become too claustrophobic, however, or a bit too grimy, a sunny, palm-lined square appears.
The same streets witness the town's uproarious Carnavales, well known throughout Spain. The week before Cuaresma (Lent), residents go for days without sleep - singing, dancing in the streets, playing odd musical instruments, and rattling nerveracking noisemakers. A fireworks display signals the end of the carnival celebrations, and the next morning all that remains are several tons of confetti and empty wine bottles.
Vejer de la Frontera Andalusia
This picturesque village is another of Andalusia's white villages. It lords over the landscape 3.5 miles (52 km) from Cadiz, just a mile (1.6 km) off the main road. The site is another exceptional one, used as a defensive bastion ever since the days when Romans were fighting Iberians. The Moors couldn't pass up a chance to plunk down a hilltop castle, and some of its old walls have been restored. Nearby, the Iglesia de San Salvador (Church of the Holy Savior; Calle Rosario) is a blending of Gothic and Mudejar styles, built on the foundations of a mosque. The tiny streets here are no place to drive; if you'd like to explore, park in the lot at the entrance to the village.
Things to do in Tarifa
The town sits at Spain's southernmost point, looking out on the Strait of Gibraltar and, on a clear day, as far as Morocco. Head for the Casco Antiguo (Old Town) through an ancient portal. Within are the 16th-century Gothic Iglesia de San Mateo (Church of St. Matthew) and the 13th century (reconstructed) Castillo de Guzman el Bueno (Castle of Guzman the Good), still used as an army barracks.
The castle is usually open daily during the summer months, on weekends only the rest of the year; admission charge. However, ongoing renovations have closed the castle periodically, so it's best to check with the Oficina de Turismo before visiting. Most people who come to Tarifa don't come for the sightseeing, but to take the hydrofoil that makes a daily run across the water to Tangier in Morocco. Windsurfing is another big draw.En Route from Tarifa Return to N340 and head east toward Algeciras.
This part of Andalusia, known as the Campo de Gibraltar, is mainly an industrial and shipping center, of little interest to tourists. Several miles east of Tarifa, however, the famous Rock of Gibraltara little piece of the British Empire isolated in the Mediterranean comes into view, thrusting up from across the Bahia de Algeciras.
ALGECIRAS This growing port city has little to offer visitors except wonderful views of the Rock. More than three million passengers a year use the ferries and hydrofoils that ply the Strait of Gibraltar between Algeciras and both Tangier land the Spanish enclave of Ceuta in North Africa. The city also has a grand Void landmark hotel, the Reina Cristina (see Best en Route), the brainchild of a turn ofthecentury English lord who constructed a railroad across Andalusia. During World War II, the harbor side hotel's guests were joined by a number of German spies, who watched ship traffic through the strait from their second story rooms.
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