Saturday, February 6, 2010

Cycling and walking in Spain

Because of the mild climate in Spain, touring by bicycle is easy and the itinerary possibilities are nearly inexhaustible. Visitors who pedal through the Spanish countryside will get to know parts of the country that most vacationers never see. In Spain, a bike ride can cover a variety of terrain, from the hilly land of olive groves to flat vineyards and lush countryside overflowing with orange and lemon trees. Leisurely bicycle rides pass through tiny fishing villages and medieval towns dotted with Moorish ruins. These are the real sights, the hidden enclaves still untouched by tourism.

Those who have traveled around Europe by bicycle before will find that a cycling vacation in Spain is slightly more primitive than in most other Western European countries. There is hardly an abundance of sophisticated repair shops, nor even the guarantee of wellsurfaced secondary roads (though the situation is improving).

Bicycle rentals are available in Spain, but not omnipresent. Intermediate and diehard cyclists will want to bring their own bicycles and gear. Airlines will generally transport bikes as part of passengers' personal baggage, but they may insist that the entire bike be crated; check with the airline before departure. Also be sure to confirm insurance coverage.

And note that when traveling by train in Spain, a bike (like luggage) must be placed in the last car, so make sure that it is properly labeled with name, address, and the stations of origin and destination. A sturdy lock is another sensible precaution.

Map of Spain

As usual, take along a basic set of tools and spares, including a tire pump, puncture repair kit, tire levers, spoke key, oil can, batteries and bulbs, rag, extra spokes, inner tubes and tires, pliers, and odd nuts and bolts. Traveling with a minimal amount of cash and a credit card is also advised. In addition, take a good map of Spain; Michelin generally has the best.

Cyclists traveling alone through Spain will find the local people very friendly; riders often wind up staying in one place longer than they had planned after making new friends. It does help, however, to have a rudimentary understanding of Spanish, especially when touring the rural routes, as most people in the countryside do not speak English. A pocket dictionary is heartily recommended. If the thought of biking solo is less than a satisfactory vacation idea, there are numerous organized bicycle tours available in Spain.

Cycling in Andalusia

This region's warm year round climate, well marked and well paved roads, and scenery rank it as one of the best places to go biking in Spain. Home to feisty flamenco dancers and sunsplashed villages, Andalusia boasts three of the country's most fascinating cities: Granada, Cordoba and Seville. Begin the tour in Granada, with a steep ride up to the Alhambra: a complex of palaces, fortresses, and gardens built during the 13th and 14th centuries. Then meander in Columbus's historic footsteps to Santa Fe the city where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella signed the agreement sponsoring the explorer's famous voyage. Next, head to Cordoba, one of Spain's oldest CItIes.

Along the way, the route skirts past two rivers, the Marbella and the Guadajoz. The terrain along the route is fairly easy, consisting ostly of gentle downhill slopes and flat land. The road begins to climb Just beyond the small village of Torres Cabrera.

Heading South toward Seville, the route passes through alternating views of extensIve fIelds and barren wastelands. OccasionalIy, a fortress pokes up its venerable head III the dlstance. Seville is one of the most romantic cities in Spain and one of its most touristic. The roads, most of which were dramatically improved in preparation for Expo '92, are well marked, the scenery full of history and beauty. Always be careful to lock up the bike and take off one of its wheels - unfortunately, caution is necessary here (as in most major cities), as crime has become an all too frequent problem. After SevIlle, lt s a one hour ride northeast to Carmona once a thriving Moorish stronghold, to view its famous 14th-century Castle.

Cycling in the Basque country

The hilly Basque Country is best known for the town of Guernica (Gemika in the Basque language), made famous by Pablo Picasso's painting of the same name, depicting the horrors of the Spanish Civil War. It is an interesting area to explore because its culture and its people - even its language are quite different from the rest of Spain. The area will appeal to cyclists who enjoy diverse geography. The tour rolIs past rugged mountains and stony undulations to soft, sloping, wide sandy shores and steep, pine-covered hilI sides.

In San Sebastian (known in Basque as Donostia), the road along the puerto's edge travels past some of the best seafood restaurants serving fresh food caught that day. Cycle along the Bilbao coast for some of the finest and most surprising scenery along the North Atlantic coast.

Cycling in Castillon

This is a land of fairytale images, including that of El Escorial, King Philip II's somber yet lavish palace monastery near Madrid; the near perfect 11th century walled city of Avila, framed by the snowcapped ridge of the Sierra de Gredos; and Segovia, home to an ancient Roman aqueduct and the Alcazar, a spectacular medieval castle. This trip pedals past the royal palace and gardens of La Granja de San Ildefonso, often referred to as the Versailles of Spain, and the romantic spiraling cathedrals of Burgos and the handsome square at Valladolid.

Start either in Madrid or at El Escotial, and plan enough time for a visit to the Valle de los Caidos (ValIey of the Fallen), an impressive memorial to those who died in the Spanish Civil War.

Cycling in the Pyrenees

Intermediate pedalers will enjoy the challenge of this region, as it is filled with a number of ups and downs, but the views here are so spectacular that even beginners should give it a try. The area is the home of many of Spain's better ski resorts, including Baqueira Beret and Tuca Betren, and during spring and summer rich green and yellow fields criss-cross the wide valleys and small undiscovered villages.

Map of the Pyrenees

Because of the proximity to France, the French influence on the food and the people here is very obvious. Ask the staff at the tourist office for the map Valles Superiores del Segre/Ariege, which covers the High UrgelI, Cerdanya, and the Ribes ValIey. A favorite tour is through the Parc Nacional Aigues Tortes (Aigues Tortes National Park) with the Llac Sant Maurici (Lake St. Maurice), just south of Vall d'Aran. This national park is a wonderland of crashing waterfalls and serene lakes, which makes for very pleasant bicycling.

Cycling on the Costa Blanca Spain

The White Coast, which extends from the fortress town of Denia down to Torrevija, is another resort rich in natural beauty that is perfect for the cyclIst. LIke the Costa del Sol, it has its share of unspoiled areas.

Cycling Costa Brava

The Wild Coast is rougher and rockier than its sister resort areas but just as magnificent. Most people flock here during the summer, so it is best to visit in the off season, when it is more tranquil and easier to explore. Plan ahead, though, as many hotels and restaurants close at the end of the high season. The roads her are well paved, but the terrain is often steep, physically challenging, and some spots even dangerous. This tour is not recommended for novice cyclists.

Cycling Costa de la Luz Spain

This Coast of Light, which runs from Tarifa on the southern tip of Spain overlooking the majestic straits of Gibraltar to the town of Ayamonte on the Portuguese border, is less congested and more ruggedly scenic than the Costa del Sol. Relatively flat, it makes for a scenic bike route. Of particular interest are the picturesque town of Vejer de la Frontera perched on a limestone headland near Cabo de Trafalgar, where Lord Nelson's navy crippled a Napoleonic fleet; the flamenco, horse, and sherry town of Jerez de la Frontera; Sanlucar de Barrameda, with its revered manzailla wine and spectacular sunsets over the Rio Guadalquivir (Guadalquivir River); and the whIte, sandy beaches at Matalascanas and Castilla. If you happen to be traveling in May, stop at the shrine of El Rocio, inside Coto Nacional Doñana where one of Europe's most pIcturesque and Iively romerias (pilgrimages) takes place complete with costumes and musIc.

Cycling Costa del Sol

Although the Sun Coast in the south of Spain falls under the jurisdiction of the region of Andalusia, it warrants a special mention. This tour passes through hills that drop off into the gentle surf of the MedIterranean and along roads that coil around the crashing waves. The Costa del Sol officially extends from Sotogrande del Guadiaro east of Gibraltar, in the Spanish southwest, to the town of Nerja, east of Malaga. Those seeking the action and international flavor of some of Europe's most popular and lively beach resorts should pedal into the crowded resorts of Malaga, Marbella, and Torremolinos. Farther inland, the frenetic tourism of the resorts subsides, with quiet small towns of whitewashed houses where the essence of Old Spain still thrives.

One of the best places to enjoy a fiery Andalusian sunset is from the Puente Nuevo in Ronda, where the cliffs glow a soothing orange and red, reflecting the strong Spanish sun. In general, the roads along the Costa del Sol are in fairly good condition and easy to follow.
Cyclists traveling in the off-season should prepare to ride west to east, thus avoiding the strong easterly winds. Also not to be missed is the great Penon (Rock of Gibraltar). The view is breathtaking along the Strait of Gibraltar all the way to the Moroccan coast. Although the area itself is British rather than Spanish (Gibraltar is a British crown colony), a visit here offers a chance to view one of the Iberian Peninsula's most famous sights.

Cycling in the Pyrenees of Navarra Spain

There is probably no area in Spain quite as suited for quiet pedaling as this region along the valleys of the Arga and Aragon Rivers, where mountain valleys swoop down to the dusty red desert. Begin this itinerary in Sangiiesa, an ancient town of 5,000 on the Rio Aragon, and travel northeast, past the large and austere Cistercian Monasterio de Leyre, whose ancient church with its 12th-century crypt was the final resting place of the kings of Navarre. Continue west through sleepy Roncal, with its cobbled streets and stone houses, and the more upbeat town of Isaba, just to the north. Ahead lies Roncesvalles, historically known for the Song of Roland, an epic poem that romanticized the defeat of Charlemagne's rear guard during its retreat from Spain.

The monastery here marked the beginning of the famous Pilgrims' Route as it entered Spain from France en route to Santiago de Compostela in the northwestern corner of the country. Don't be surprised by the sign warning of cattle on the loose in the valley of Valcarlos, a few miles from the French border, which marks the end of this tour.

Hiking and walking in Spain

Before choosing a specific area of the country for hiking, look at a general road map of Spain that shows physical characteristics, so as not to opt for terrain that is too demanding for your level of fitness. For less than hardcore hikers, the choice of a mountainous region could well be foolhardy. To make the outing safe and pleasant, it is imperative for hikers to know their own limits.

Unless they are very experienced, hikers should stick to the defined areas and all hikers should always let someone know their planned destination and expected time of return (leave a note on the car if hiking alone). Those who prefer going as part of an organized tour should contact a local hiking club, a travel agent, or one of the tour packagers offering hiking tours.

Basic hiking essentials include a sturdy pair of shoes and socks, long pants if headed into heavily wooded areas, a canteen, a hat, sunblock, rainwear, and something warm, just in case. It is always best to dress in layers. Also make sure to wear clothes with pockets, or bring along a pack so that both hands can remain free. Some useful but often overlooked tools include a jack knife, waterproof matches, a map, a compass, a Spanish bota (water pouch), and snacks. In the more remote areas, a backpack, sleeping bag and pad, cookstove, food, and other gear are required.

Spain is consistent only in its diversity. There are the extreme peaks of the highlands, the Pyrenees, and the Picos de Europa, and the lowlands of the Basque Country. The best times of year to hike these areas are late spring and early autumn, when the flora and fauna are at their most vibrant and the temperatures are at their most delightful. Since hot weather is not necessarily a welcome companion on a walk, it's best to avoid the southern regions in midsummer. And since it can get warm almost anywhere in Spain between May and September, the wise walker will get most of a day's journey done before midday.

Weather in Spain

Always check the weather in advance. Like the topography, the temperature varies enormously from region to region; the high plains of the center suffer from fierce extremesstiflingly hot in summer and bitterly cold in winter. The Atlantic coast, in contrast, has a permanent tendency to dampness and a relatively brief summer. Much of the Mediterranean is warm virtually the entire year, and the archipelago of the Canary Islands off the northwest coast of Africa has weather that ranges from springlike to ovenlike. The following regions, listed alphabetically, are recommended for a Spanish hiking holiday.

The Algues National Park Pyrenees Catalan

This is for the hiker who rejoices in waterfalls and serene lakes. Some 20,000 years ago, a glacier blasted its way through what is now northern Lleida province, leaving behind a panoramic wonderland. The park is reached either from, the vllage.of Bohi to the west or from Espot, on Its eastern edge. The park´s tourist office provides numerous hiking
suggestions.

Of special interest is a 16mile (26km) walk that passes the mountain lakes surrounding Estany de la Llosa and enters the valley of Estany de Sant Maurici. Wild goats roaming the area are a frequent sight. Less traveled but equally rewarding is the path leading up to Aigiies Tortes. Along the way, the trail passes through the Vall d'Bohi one of the best places to view Romanesque architecture in the world. The land is predominantly rural and dotted with churches dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. The park is best viewed in late spring, summer, and autumn.

Walking in the Catalan Pyrenees

Good, fairly gentle trails, coupled with plenty of historic sights and a hospitable nature, make this northeast corner of Spain a sensible choice for the lessambitious walker in need of wayside distractions. By virtue of its location just across the French border), hikers can experience a variety of cultures, languages, and foods. In La Seu d'Urgell, nature buffs will have a field day roaming quiet peaks, scouting for wild mushrooms.

Other expeditions lie in the valley of Nuria, where wildfowers and waterfalls dot the landscape. Also popular is the majestic Pulgmal peak.

The Covadonga National Park Oviedo

This national park lays claim to the western region of the Picos de Europa and boasts some of the most beautiful scenery in the country, as well as the largest number of annual visitors. It was here, according to legend, that the Virgin Mary interceded with God on behalf of the king, Don Pelayo, ensuring his warriors of victory against the Moors in 718. Today, the park caters to both nature lovers and religious entourages.
The Santa Cueva (Sacred Cave) is where Don Pelayo supposedly prayed to the Virgin.

For those seeking solitude, it's best to avoid the park on and around September 8 when the area celebrates the Fiesta de la Virgen (Day of the Virgin) With numerous festivities. During this period, head instead for the hills and enjoy the wildlife that inhabits it. The higher you hike, the more likely you are to encounter a fleeting glimpse of a bear, wolf, wildcat, or fox. At the moun, tain's base are two lakes of glacial origin, EI Enol and La Ercina. Both swimming and camping are permitted here.

The Monte Perdido National Park Jaca

This park in Spain's northeast, is made up of diverse terrain that will please hikers of all abilities. This is one of the country's most beautiful areas. Its jewel-like gorges and waterfalls, steep mountains flowered with edelweiss, and dazzling forests of pine and beech are enough to encourage even the most lethargic of hikers. The best areas of the park can usually be covered in two to four days; its finest scenic assets lie near the magnificent Escuain Gorge and the Rio Yago (Yago River). There are also four distinct valleys to explore; the visitors' center provides a guided itinerary with recommended routes. The Ordesa area is also a walker's paradise, with many routes available.

The Picos de Europa Spain

This stretch of remote territory is especially popular with backpackers and experienced hikers, who take advantage of the numerous trails that transcend the range's jagged profile, valleys, and lower slopes. Always be sure to check weather forecasts before setting off on a hike in this region, as the area is prone to sudden drops in temperature and surprise rainstorms. Note that only well-equipped and very advanced alpinists should attempt to scale the peaks themselves.

Accommodations are few and far between here, and most hikers use the nearby town of Potes, along the Rio Deva (Deva River), as a base. Quiet and snowboun in winter, Potes becomes a cosmopolitan climber's town in summer.

Walking in the Sierra de Guadarrama near Madrid

This pine-covered mountain range, halfway between Madrid and Segovia, is one of the most beautiful in central Spain. Particularly noteworthy are the alpine village of Cercedilla and the breathtaking mountain pass of Puerto de Navacerrada, the geographic border between Old and New Castile. Cercedilla is a town of picturesque alpine chalets and cow pastures. Its piscinas (pools), set below cascading waterfalls, are a popular summer attraction.

The peaks of Puerto de Navacerrada reach 6,102 feet and offer excellent views of the surrounding Castilian plains. Nearby, in the town of Rascafrfa, take a swim in La Laguna de Pefialara, a beautiful lagoon situated in a valley below the commanding mountain peak. Use either Madrid or Segovia as a base, but be forewarned: The weather here is wild, so dress warmly, even in summer.

Sierra Morena near Cordoba

Few travelers know of the Sierra Morena, and even most Andalusians have trouble placing it. Though not one of Spain's more dramatic mountain ranges (its highest peak rises to just over 4,300 feet), it is nonetheless an enjoyable and very relaxing climb. The best time to visit is in March and April, when the flowers are in full bloom.

Expect to be given a private performance by armies of frogs and turtles that live along the stream. Most often, they are a hiker's only companions. The Moorish towns of Cordoba and Jaen make the best bases and starting points.

Walking in the Sierra Nevada Granada

The tallest range in all of Spain is also the most challenging. Even in summer the weather is severe, with whipping winds and temperatures that drop considerably at night. The peaks of these mountains, Mulhacen (11,407 feet) and Veleta (11,128 feet), are best tackled as a day trip, using Granada as a base. Particularly rewarding is the 25mile (40km) route surrounding Las Alpujarras, the small white villages that line the range's base.

Capileira is the closest thing to a tourist center in the area, offering good accommodations and a few other adventurous activities; Those who decide to climb farther than Las Alpujarras should be no less than intermediate climbers, able to handle sudden wind changes and a fair amount of rough terrain. The region is best tackled in the summer, long after all the snow has melted. The highest peak on peninsular Spain and the country's ultimate vantage point is Mulhacen, often most accessible after May.

The area is noticeably secluded; wild goats and birds are often the only company. Nearby are the town of Trevelez, Spain's highest community, renowned for its ham, and the cozy hamlet of Pitres. An alternative route is a hike up Mt. Veleta. Buses run yearround and climb as high as they can; from midJune on, they can usually make it clear up the road to a point from which it's a treacherous three hour hike to the peak. Under clear skies, the view extends all the way to the Rif Mountains of Morocco.

The Torcal Mountains Antequera

Some 30 miles (48 km) north of Malaga, and just south of the tidy agricultural industrial town of Antequera, await two circular trails that will enthrall adventurous hikers who delight in exploring desolate rock gardens. The path marked with yellow arrows is about 8 miles (13 km); the red-arrowed tour covers about 12 miles (19 km). Both feature spectacular vistas of curious rock formations and begin and end in Antequera, at the refugio (refuge hut) at the base of the mountain. Information: Oficina de Turismo, Palacio de Najera, Antequera.

Pico del Teide Tenerife Canary Islands

Rising from the Cafiadas plateau, sur pi rounded by the 47mile (75km) Parque Nacional de las Canadas del Teide, is Pico del Teide, a massive dormant volcano and Spain's highest peak at 12,200 feet. Hikes here offer panoramic views of the Canaries and the northwest coast of Africa. Information: Parque Nacional de las Canadas del Teide, Tenerife.

Airport car hire in Spain

Whether you are planning a walking, hiking or sightseeing trip around Spain, you will still need to get to your destination, as Spain is a vast country, and the best way to do that is to pre-book airport car hire before you leave home. Car hire at the airport in Barcelona, Madrid, Malaga, Alicante, Valencia, and every other major airport in Spain can be booked online, which will save you time and money when you arrive in Spain.

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