VALLEY OF THE KINGS TENERIFE

On the west side of the island, the majestic Valley of the Great King is still remote and was almost unknown until the 1970s, when it became something of a hippy retreat offering an away from tall, ecologically sustainable lifestyle. Today, though, and despite the location, it attracts more visitors than anywhere else on the island. On the twisting road up to Arure (10km inland), several viewpoints offer stunning panoramas of cultivated terraces clinging to the lower slopes of the steep ravine, the scattered white houses of a few hamlets, and the valley opening out to greenery beside the vibrant blue sea. One hamlet has a spectacularly located mirador restaurant designed by Lanzarote architect Cesar Manrique.

The road descends the ravine to reach La Calera, the attractive little central community of the Valle Gran Rey, standing among banana plantations. Beyond, the road divides for the last 1 km to the sea: to the to the north is La Playa; to the south is the fishing harbour and port at Vueltas, the traditional gateway to the valley. Both settlements have simple waterside eateries offering the freshest of fish. La Playa and Vueltas have developed as tourist centres since the 1980s and their little shingle beaches are among the best that La Gomera offers.