SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE

Santa Cruz, the island's capital, still has the authentic feel and look of colonial Spain. It's not a holiday resort, but a vibrant Latin city where many Tinerfeños live and work. The name means Holy Cross of Tenerife, and comes from the crucifix planted boldly at this spot by the ruthless Spanish conqueror Alonso Fernandez de Lugo, when he strode ashore in 1493 with 1,000 men to take possession of the Guanches' island home. During the five centuries since the conquest, Santa Cruz has remained the focal point of Tenerife's culture and history. While the gaudy, multicultural Tenerife of modern tourism stays way down south, the resolutely Spanish capital has remained almost unaffected by the millions of package-holiday visitors.

Only tourists determined to know and understand the island, and looking for something more than a suntan, choose to stay here. It's also due to the diverse economy of the capital, with its oil processing, waterfront industry and deep-water harbor. Now though, Santa Cruz has polished up some of its treasures and even provides a jaunty little 'train' to take people on a tour of the sights. At the same time, holidaymakers have realized there's more to Tenerife than bierkellers and crowded black beaches, and that much of the best sightseeing is in and around Santa Cruz. The redeveloped waterfront area with its diverse shipping continues to be a source of interest, while just north of the city lies a little known treasure, the best beach on Tenerife.