SAN SEBASTIAN DE LA GOMERA TENERIFE


La Gomera's capital, usually known as San Sebastian and often known to locals simply as Villa, is an unprepossessing little port, though it has an excellent harbour. In several ways San Sebastian is quite untypical of the island. Though hemmed in by hills, the town lies on flat ground while the rest of La Gomera is all steep slopes and valleys; its dusty, dry setting is a marked contrast to the island's exotic greenery. Most of the town is modern white cubes in an island full of rustic character Only San Sebastian's picturesque main street, Calle Real (sometimes known as Calle del Medio), and the main square, Plaza de las Americas, with its balconied mansions, evoke the memory of colonial times and the great drama of the island's history.

La Gomera was the last Canary Island to be subjugated by the Spanish it remained independent until 1837. As a result, no other Canary Island retains so much of the native Guanche culture and ethnicity. There are, too, visible in many island faces, reminders of the many African slaves who were kept here.

When Christopher Columbus anchored at San Sebastian before the voyage that discovered the Americas, this was the most westerly port in the world. Tenerife remained in Guanche hands, while on La Gomera only this edge of the island was under Spanish control. To recapture a little of that past, walk along the main street, Calle Real. Here is the 17th century Casa del Pozo, once the customs house; the name means House of the Well. Inside is the Pozo de la Aguada, the well from which Columbus's quartermaster drew the water to supply his ships on the outward voyage to America. Here too the expedition bought seeds, grains and flowers to be planted in the New World.

In the same street stands the Iglesia Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion (Church of Our Lady of the Assumption), where we are told, but this is poetic licence, Columbus said his last prayer before setting out on the great voyage. Founded in the 15th century, the church was largely rebuilt In the late 18th century. Also in Calle Real, Casa de Colon (Columbus House) has no proven link with the explorer, but is now claimed as the house where he lodged. It has been restored as a museum about Columbus, featuring models of his ships and old maps, and is the focal point of the town's annual week-long Columbus festival in September.

Finally, in the harbor side park, the Torre del Conde (Count's Tower, closed to visitors) is the oldest building in continuous use in the Canary Islands. This sturdy tower house dates from 1447, and was once the residence of Beatriz de Bobadilla , wife of the count of La Gomera, Hernan Peraza (whose father had built the tower). Both the count and the countess were hated by the Guanches for their repressive arrogance and cruelty. Hernan was eventually murdered for raping (or seducing) a Guanche princess, and Beatriz moved into this tower for her own protection.

The tower also has a connection with Columbus: after the murder of the count, Columbus became friendly with the Beatriz. Later the tower became a storehouse for gold, silver and treasures looted from Native Americans and sent back to Spain.