LA OROTAVA TENERIFE

Puerto de la Cruz was originally built as the port for older and grander La Orotava, the hilltown just inland whose coat of arms still declares it to be a Villa Muy Noble y Leal (most noble and loyal town). A jewel box of balconied facades, pretty decoration, cobbled streets and beautifully preserved historic buildings, La Orotava is best explored on foot. Start with the wonderful views from Plaza de la Constitucion. The towers and dome of baroque Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Concepcion in Plaza Casanas are a distinctive landmark.

Calle San Francisco is the highlight, climbing the west side of town from Plaza San Francisco to Plaza Casanas. Casa de los Balcones  is its main attraction. Across the street the Casa del Turista, though less grand, is older from about 1590 but in the same style, and has a craft shop where demonstrations are given of making sand pictures, a feature of the town's Corpus Christi celebrations. Also along here, 17^th century Hospital de la Santisima Trinidad used to be a convent - the revolving drum set in the wall by the main door was used to leave unwanted babies to be brought up by the nuns.

Interesting museums in town include Museo de Artesania Ibero-americana, celebrating the artistic and cultural links between Spain (including the Canary Islands) and Latin America; Artenerife, or Casa Torrehermosa showcasing the best of the island's arts and crafts; and out of town Museo de Ceramica, with 1,000 pieces of traditional pottery. All three are housed in beautifully restored historic buildings.