The Thyssen Bonnenrisza Museum Madrid

Sympathetically remodeled, the spacious 19^th century Palacio de Villa hermosa is the perfect setting for an art history lesson spanning seven centuries of European and American art. The lesson begins on the top floor, where the 13th to 15^th century religious works positively glow, thanks to excellent lighting. Next come a succession of fascinating early Renaissance portraits. In Room 5, near Hans Holbein the Younger's classic portrait of Henry VIII of England, is Francesco Cossa's intriguing 15^th century Portrait of a Man. This is an experiment in trompe l'oeil and perspective as a hand holds out a ring for you to inspect. Room 20 has two Flemish masterpieces, lit as fiercely as a movie set: Esau selling his Birthright (1627) by Hendrik Terbrugghen and Supper at Emmaus (1633) by Matthias Stom.

On through the centuries, the tour continues past Titian and Caravaggio, Impressionists and Expressionists. On the ground floor are eight rooms of 20^th century works. In Room 41, works by Picasso and Braque exemplify the technical and aesthetic revolution of Cubism. Room 45 is lined with familiar 20^th century works: Picasso's Harlequin with a mirror (1923), Chagall's Rooster, a rich blue Miro titled Catalan peasant with a Guitar, plus others by Braque, Leger, Kandinsky, Ernst and Madrid's own Juan Gris. Room 47 focuses on star American names such as Edward Hopper, who's Hotel Room (1931) has a typically lonely and mysterious atmosphere. The new glass pavilion houses 19th and 20^th century paintings from the collection of Baroness Carmen Thyssen Bornemisza.