THE SAN FRANCISCO BASILICA MADRID

A long-term restoration program  inside this vast 18^th century church, which stands on the site of a hermitage built by San Francisco (St Francis of Assisi) in 1217, is now complete. Guides show you the highlights of a building that has served as a church, national pantheon and even an army barracks. Joseph Bonaparte, the upstart king of Spain, wanted to use it as the parliament building. The enormous dome measuring 33m across is covered with 19^th century frescos. In the very first chapel to the left of the main entrance is The Sermon of San Bernardino of Siena (1781) by Goya. He produced this unremarkable work at the age of 35, long before the dramatic canvases that are a highlight of the Prado. Even in his early career, Goya put himself into his paintings; here he is the one in yellow, on the right-hand side. Behind the altar is the Sala Capitular, with its carved wooden seats and paintings by 17^th century Spanish masters such as Francisco Zurbaran and Alonso Cano.