THE ROYAL ACADEMY MUSEUM MADRID

Both Picasso and Dali studied at the grand, but grimlooking Royal Academy, the oldest museum in the city (1752). Climb the sombre, massive stone steps; once inside the gallery, all is brightly lit. This uncrowned museum has a serendipitous charm. Although Goya's paintings are at the end of the itinerary, don't rush there but take your time to discover Francisco Zurbaran's powerful portraits of monks, which dominate Room 6, and Rubens' Susana y Las Viejos (Susanna and the Elders), the highlight of Room 13. There are curiosities galore, such as Giuseppe Archimboldo's curious painting in Room 14. Called La Primavera (Spring), this is a portrait concocted from daisies, wild strawberries, roses and iris. Two contrasting portraits of famous generals, Napoleon Bonaparte and George Washington, dominate Room 35. The French emperor seems to be wearing a dress, while the American holds a map of the capital named after him.

Find Joaquin Sorolla and Juan Gris among a mishmash of modern Spanish artists in Rooms 25 and 29. Room 20 is popular for its famous but surprisingly small Goya painting, EI Entierra de la Sardina (The Burial of the Sardine) depicting this rather bizarre locaL custom. Other works by Goya in the room include self-portraits, as well as sketches for the famous oils of scenes in a mad house, of the Inquisition and of penitents.