THE PASEOS MADRID

Madrid is split down the middle, from north to south, by a series of paseos or boulevards: the Paseo de la Castellana (4km), the Paseo de Recoletos (1 km) and the Paseo del Prado 11.5km. These are interspersed by grand roundabouts, often graced by imposing statues and fountains, such as the Plaza de la Cibeles I . Most visitors enjoy the stretch of the Paseo del Prado linking the three great art museums: the Prado, the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia I  and the Museo Thyssen Bornemisza . Trees shade strollers along the eastern side of this paseo, which borders the Real Jardin Botanico.

The Paseo de Recoletos has echoes of Paris, with its glamorous cafes. The most famous is the Gran Cafe Gijon, known as a meeting place for writers and artists in the 1920s. Today, actors, agents and directors still meet to read scripts and clinch deals. In the evenings a pianist tinkles away.

The Paseo de la Castellana, which cuts through the modern part of the city, is lined with imposing office blocks and, to the north, the Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, home of Real Madrid football club  In summer, the Castellana is known for its terrazas (open-air cafes), which open late and close in the early hours. Locals have their favorite terraza where they meet to chat and drink,  to a background of music.