SAN MIGUEL MARKET MADRID

This is the only traditional food market of its kind left in the heart of Madrid. Built in 1915 but recently renovated, the hall is a graceful combination of greenpainted iron and glass. Even if you are not buying, a stroll past the stalls shows why Madrid is called Spain's biggest port: all the best freshly caught fish is transported straight to the capital. Fishmongers might be working on a whole mero (halibutl weighing 40kg; charcuterias (delicatessensl are piled with dozens of types of sausage and cheese; carnicerias (butchers) offer tender pork; and the range of colourful fresh fruit and vegetables is astonishing. Stop for a snack at the small cafe-bar in the middle and eavesdrop on vendors discussing deals.

In Madrid terms, this marketplace is relatively new. It dates back to the early 19th century, when Jose I demolished narrow streets, old houses and ancient churches to create new squares and open spaces in the capital. His enthusiasm earned him the nickname, EI Rey Plazuelas (King of the Little Squares). The San Miguel market replaced a church of the same name.