Plaza Mayor Madrid

The bronze equestrian statue of Felipe III makes a popular meeting point. The reliefs around the four giant lampposts spell out the history of the plaza. In 1617, under Felipe III, the old square was replaced by this new arena, created to hold everything from bullfights to theatre, festivals to inquisitions. Its inauguration coincided with the beatification of San Isidro, Madrid's patron saint. in 1620, and the spacious balconies have been hired out to spectators ever since.

Throughout the year, tourists and locals alike watch the world go by from cafe tables that spill across the paving stones. During the annual San Isidro festivities in May, giant cocidos (stews) and paellas are served up, and in summer there are concerts and plays. The annual Christmas market, with its traditional sweets, cakes and toys, has been a feature since 1837. The Casa de la Panaderia, the dominant building on the north side, dates from 1590, but the jolly murals were only added in 1992. The oldest shop on the square is Bustillo (No 4), where they have been selling cloth since 1790.

Sunday mornings are special. Since 1927, the arcades have been filled with dozens of tables for the popular stamp and coin collectors' market. In fact, anything that can be collected is displayed and offered for sale: postcards, cheese labels, pins and lottery tickets.