PLAZA DE TOROS DE LAS VENTAS MADRID

Whether you are for or against bullfighting, Las Ventas is an astonishing building. Dating from 1929, this is the most prestigious arena in the world a 22,000-seat cathedral of bullfighting. A classic example of Moorish-inspired architecture, with pink brick and decorative tilework, it towers above the Las Ventas Metro stop. In the spacious forecourt, life-size statues make convenient meeting places for friends before a corrida.

Poised in mid-air to the left of the main entrance is 'EI Vivo' (Jose Cubero), while the legendary Antonio Bienvenida is carried shoulder high by admirers (to the right of the main entrance). Off to one side, a torero doffs his cap to Dr Fleming, the inventor of penicillin, which has saved the lives of many bullfighters. Along a wall facing the southwest side of the stadium is a mural of nine life-size bulls and their keepers. Fights are usually at 7 in the evening, and are said to be the only events in Spain that start right on time. Crowds gather early looking for tickets and buying nuts and sweets from stalls. The most prestigious corridas are during the feria of San Isidro, the monthlong festival in May, when some 30 take place.

On the north side of the arena is the Museo Taurino.

This small museum is a Hall of Fame for bullfighting. It traces the development of the modern style and honours the legends of the ring, who are all known by their nicknames. Portraits and busts include stars of the 19th century: 'Cuchares' (Francisco Arjona), celebrated for his innovative movements, and the rivals 'Lagartijo' (Rafael Molinal and 'Frascuelo' (Salvador Sanchezl. Although words such as 'artistic' and 'elegant' describe their skills, the litany of deaths from wounds and infections is sobering. The famous 'Manolete', for example, died after being gored on 28 August 1947. The white and gold costume he wore that day, plus his pink cape embroidered with roses and violets, is on display next to the basic blood transfusion machine that failed to save his life. Credit is also given to the supporting picadores and banderilleros and even famous bulls: the head of the bull that killed Manuel Garcia Espartero is proudly displayed.