PALACIO DE LAS CORTES MADRID

The events of 23 February 1981 marked a turning point in Spanish history. Civil Guard commander Colonel Tejero entered the Salon de Sesiones in the parliament building, firing his pistol and ordering delegates to the floor. Television cameras relayed the action live to a shocked country and for a while it looked as if Spain might revert to military dictatorship.  Discussion of those events are the prime topic during the 45minute tours of this neoclassical mid19th century building. First, however, you pass through four rooms as the guide describes the ornate paintings, chandeliers and furniture. There are portraits of 19^th century politicians and an intriguing 3m high clock that registers the weather and humidity, as well as the date and time. Spaniards study the seven constitutions of Spain from the earliest (1812), to the current one issued in 1978 and signed by Juan Carlos.

The highlight, however, is the deputies' chamber with its 350 leather armchairs. The order of seating for the cabinet reflects the seniority of the ministry; two panels show how individual members vote. But what Spaniards of all ages want to know is, 'where are the bullet holes?' Even bored teenagers pay attention as the guide points out the 40 punctures in the walls and ceiling. Parents recall those momentous hours when tanks threatened Valencia, and Spain waited to see whether or not the new democracy would survive.