MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTES DECORATIVAS MADRID

Like London's Victoria and Albert Museum and the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, this is a must for anyone interested in design and fine craftsmanship. Throughout the five floors of this converted mansion the collection focuses on Spanish traditions, but places them in a wider context. The glassware from La Granja, for example, contrasts with centuries old pieces dating from Greek and Roman times as well as more modern Lalique. Porcelain from Spanish factories compares with works from elsewhere in Europe, such as Meissen, Limoges and Simes.

The undoubted highlight is the famous tiled kitchen on the fourth floor, brought here from a palace in Valencia. Covered in hand painted pictorial tiles, this is a snapshot of 18^th century life that shows the mistress of the house and her retinue of servants from the butler in frock coat and buckled shoes to the African woman wielding a broom. Food historians note the copper pots, the leg of lamb, partridge, charizas sausages, and even a tray of cakes and turron (nougat) that look good enough to eat. Most fun are the cats which are stealing a fish from the pan and an eel from the shopping basket. Furniture, tapestries, an ornate silver tabletop showing all the signs of the zodiac there is much to admire here. Don't, however, miss the room dedicated to the fan, that most Spanish of all fashion accessories. Follow its evolution from simple palm leaves to intricate designs in silk and mother-of-pearl. Even the language of the fan is deciphered.