The Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes Costa Brava

Some claim that the monastery was built on the site of a Roman temple, but the more colourful story concerns Pope Boniface IV and St Peter's head. With Rome under threat, the Pope ordered the church's most sacred relics to be sent to Spain for safekeeping. When the time came to retrieve them, the head was nowhere to be found, so a monastery was built on the site here and dedicated to the saint. There are records of a monastery here from AD 878 though recent excavations suggest that the site was in use long before that. The present church, dating from 1022, marks the transition to Romanesque architecture in Catalonia. The original cloister, its galleries decorated with murals, is covered by an upper cloister on the same level as the church. This was an important place of pilgrimage throughout the Middle Ages, but fell into decline after the 14th century. The last monks left in 1798.

There are good views of the monastery from the chapel of Santa Elena, all that remains of the village which grew up around the church. For the best views, climb the path behind the monastery to the ruined castle of Sant Salvador. Look down over the monastery and out to sea, then turn to see the Pyrenees on the horizon. The sunrises up here some of the first in Spain are magical.