EIXAMPLE GIRONA

Most visitors to Girona spend all their time in the old town to the east of the River Onyar, but the Eixample ('extension'), on the other side of the river, is where most people live and work. Placa de la Independencia, where the old town meets the new, is a pleasant 19th century arcaded square lined with restaurants, cafes and bars. The monument at the centre is to the defenders of Girona, under siege from Napoleon's troops in 1809. A short walk from here leads to the Parc de la Devesa, the city's playground and the largest urban park in Catalonia.

Also near here is the Museo del Cinema a fascinating collection of oId cameras and cinematographic instruments. Much of the new town was built in the early years of the 20th century, when the Modernist architectural movement was at its peak. Rafael Maso, born in Girona in 1880, was one of the leading figures in the movement. His Casa Teixidor, with its green ceramic lantern, can be seen on Carrer Santa Eugenia near the station. Designed as a warehouse with flats above, it is now a college of architecture.