BLANES COSTA BRAVA

Blanes is where it all begins. The Costa Brava starts at Sa Palomera, a rocky promontory halfway along the beach, and continues north all the way to France. Once used for shelter by the town's fishing fleet, the promontory has the remains of an old fire tower a primitive lighthouse at its summit and it is still lit up by fire each year during the Costa Brava's international fireworks contest in July.

Climb on to Sa Palomera, passing the fishing boats which are washed up on the shingle beach, for some of the best views of Blanes. South of here, the beach stretches on, as far as the eye can see, passing hotels, campsites and the mouth of the River Tordera at the start of the Costa Maresme  To the north, a wide promenade with gardens, play areas and restaurant tables on the street leads around to the town's attractive, and still busy, fishing harbor.

Blanes is still a working fishing port, where the arrival of the fleet each evening is followed by an animated auction in the fish market you can watch it all happening from the upstairs bar. Fishermen mend their nets, old men sit on the sea walls and the sailors' chapel of Nostra Senyora de l'Esperan,a is adorned with nautical themes. Blanes may be one of the Costa Brava's largest resorts, but with a population of more than 20,000 it has managed to absorb the tourists without losing its soul.

The old town, just behind the seafront, has survived almost unscathed, with Gothic churches, medieval houses, fountains, shrines and a lively daily produce market. Out of season this is a real Catalan town, best experienced during the sunset promenade when everyone from grandmothers to tiny children put on their best clothes and stroll beside the sea.

Just above the town is the Mar i Murtra botanic garden, dramatically situated on a cliff top. There is a splendid collection of South American cactus plants, plus Californian and Chilean palms, spiny aloe from South Africa and a charming Mediterranean garden with olive, pine and tamarisk trees dropping down towards the sea. From the Linnaeus rotunda you can look down over a small cove of sparkling turquoise water and cliffs where the bushes grow wild out of the rocks.

This is a very special and peaceful place, even for those who have little interest in plants. You can walk around the guided trail in less than an hour, but you could easily spend a day here, with a good book and a picnic, enjoying the sun and the shade and the sound of the sea.

The road beyond the gardens continues to the small beach and former tuna fishing port at Cala Sant Francese, where there is a beach bar in summer. You can also walk or drive from the gardens to the Castell de Sant Joan, an 11th century castle and 15th century hermitage with sweeping views of the town's beach.