ELCHE COSTA BLANCA

Surrounded and infiltrated by Europe's largest palm forest, the ancient city of Elche stands on the Vinalopo River. Spain's shoe manufacturing capital, Elche is a stronghold of the Valencian language and one of the most historic towns in the region. Founded as an Iberian settlement named Illici, the Romans called it lulia Illice Augusta. It became an important Visigothic episcopal centre, served as a major Moorish power base, was retaken by Jaime I in 1265 and has since quietly prospered. The old town on the east bank of the river, contains almost everything' worth seeing, so visitors can ignore the modern town, though some of the shoe factory outlets are worth visiting.

More than 300,000 palms grow in Elche, in verdant parks and shady squares and lining streets and gardens The groves probably originated in Phoenician times and are protected by law. Many trees bear dates, and these are often for sale from street vendors. A miniature train tours the larger groves several times a day, or you can hire a bicycle and follow a mapped route through some of the plantations around the city's edge. Elche's main sights are clustered around the vast baroque basilica of Santa Maria, whose blue tiled dome dominates the ancient town centre Built in the 16th and 17th centuries, the basilica, dark and cavernous inside and a mass of exuberant carving outside, is the scene in August of Elche's fiesta, the Misteri d'Elx.

This medieval mystery play, celebrating in words and haunting music the death and assumption of the Virgin, has probably been performed by the townspeople since the 1260s, soon after the Reconquest. You can learn more about this at the Museu Municipal de la Festa, where the excellent audiovisual show gives some idea of the drama and beauty of the festival for which Elche is renowned.

Near the cathedral, Elche's Museo Arqueologico is housed in the Palacio Altamira. The collection includes some wonderful Iberian pottery and stone pieces from the more important Museo Monografico de Alcudia. This stands on the site of Illici, considered to be one of Spain's most important Iberian centres, a short distance outside Elche. The town centre has some fine Moorish remains. The Calaforra, or watchtower, is a remarkably complete building that has an extraordinary mudejar hallway, while nearby, the 15th century Renaissance facade of the Convento de la Merce fronts a serene cloister and a set of Arab baths.

From the centre of the city a pleasant stroll leads through the old Moorish quarter of Raval to the Franciscan monastery church of San Jose, where you can see azejulos, frescoes and carvings. Elche is particularly noted for its festivals. Besides La Festa in August, Palm Sunday is a major celebration, with thousands of people, all dressed in new clothes, processing with palm branches through the palm trees themselves. Late December sees the Vinguda de la Mare de Deu, a procession from the sea to Elche, commemorating the legendary arrival of the text of the mystery play.